Rack measurements.

[pvsampson]

I'm hoping to get a general idea on what is considered the "best" measurements for a full power rack.

That is width,height,depth.Also hole spacings,minimum and maximum hole height and how many are required for optimum use.What gauge and what size metal would be considered best?What is the favoured hook design and why? Best way of placing and removing hooks? What sort of safeties-rod,bar or sling?

I'd like your personal thoughts on what you would consider to be your perfect rack,and why.

[twodog]

I am not going to describe what I consider to be the perfect rack, but instead the rack that I would build, for my space, from scratch.

-2"x2" 7ga. square tube, overall rack height would be 94" , w/the chin bar set at about 84"
-inside cage depth would be 30", w/full height plate storage, total depth about 52"
-1.5" spacing, with 1" holes from 10" off the floor. to about 6'0" at the top
-Safeties would be 2" wide and covered with UMHW plastic bar protection
-jhooks (2 sets) would be 1" wide, flat, and covered with kydex

This all based on the fact that I'm 5'8", and the space I have available for a rack. I personally see no need for 3x3 when using 7 ga. tubing. 30" cage depth has always been more than enough for me. 2" spacing, in general, is fine for me but with a 7 ga. rack and 3/4-1" pins, 1.5" spacing is feasible. I have found plate storage very useful. The UMHW and kydex are definitely needed to protect the bars.

Finally, I designed this rack to be heavy, fairly compact, and able to easily clear 8' ceilings so that it would be versatile for moving from one space to another.

-

[Mech6]

I am not going to describe what I consider to be the perfect rack, but instead the rack that I would build, for my space, from scratch.

-2"x2" 7ga. square tube, overall rack height would be 94" , w/the chin bar set at about 84"
-inside cage depth would be 30", w/full height plate storage, total depth about 52"
-1.5" spacing, with 1" holes from 10" off the floor. to about 6'0" at the top
-Safeties would be 2" wide and covered with UMHW plastic bar protection
-jhooks (2 sets) would be 1" wide, flat, and covered with kydex

This all based on the fact that I'm 5'8", and the space I have available for a rack. I personally see no need for 3x3 when using 7 ga. tubing. 30" cage depth has always been more than enough for me. 2" spacing, in general, is fine for me but with a 7 ga. rack and 3/4-1" pins, 1.5" spacing is feasible. I have found plate storage very useful. The UMHW and kydex are definitely needed to protect the bars.

Finally, I designed this rack to be heavy, fairly compact, and able to easily clear 8' ceilings so that it would be versatile for moving from one space to another.

-

For the height, take into account that some may want to put it ontop of a platform. So 2-2.5" thick extra. At 6', I only need 88" inside height to be able to OHP without problems.

[twodog]

For the height, take into account that some may want to put it ontop of a platform. So 2-2.5" thick extra. At 6', I only need 88" inside height to be able to OHP without problems.

Actually you're right, because my rack is now on a platform, but alas this is a dream rack and I'll probably never get rid of the rack I have, because I really like it.

[Detrus]

Haven't used enough racks myself but I thought too much about them.

Rogue R-3 is some people's ideal power rack, except for weight storage. It's based on the Westside Rack http://www.westside-barbell.com/inde...ent/power-rack

Many people prefer 2x3 over 3x3 because there's more wiggle room to re-rack. I remember GarageIron hated on the 1" hole spacing region on R-3. I think an older version of Westside Power rack had 1" hole spacing for full height of the rack. Now it's the same as R-3. Problem is the 1" hole spacing doesn't go far enough for bench. And with many little unmarked holes it's super annoying to line things up. But that's easily fixed.

Another direction is thick uprights, and 3" hole spacing with extra J-Hooks and safeties to get 1.5" spacing out of it. Elite FTS signature http://www.flexcart.com/members/elit...?m=PD&pid=5855



That's interesting but personally not a fan, too much junk laying around, not elegant.

You could put separate 1"-1.5" paddings on existing safeties and j-hooks to get that, instead of having a second set of them.

I grew to like bigger holes. You trade off tighter hole spacing, but that can be fixed by offsetting j-hooks and safeties, just not with a 2nd set.

In a public gym, when multiple people use equipment simultaneously, a gun rack is quite handy. To get the advantage on a power rack, you need a multi story j-hook. Maybe that's the best way to get offsets too.

[UTCFitness]

I'm hoping to get a general idea on what is considered the "best" measurements for a full power rack.

That is width,height,depth.Also hole spacings,minimum and maximum hole height and how many are required for optimum use.What gauge and what size metal would be considered best?What is the favoured hook design and why? Best way of placing and removing hooks? What sort of safeties-rod,bar or sling?

I'd like your personal thoughts on what you would consider to be your perfect rack,and why.

I always make mine 48 inches wide to the outside. The height and depth really depends on the space you want to use it in. Ceiling height can be a limitation, the depth could be as small as 18 or 20 inches if you have to save space. I also think that nylon strap safeties are great, they are easy on your bars and your rack.

[Detrus]

My personal choice would be a Yoke/half rack like Y-2, YM-2, Sorinex Yoke Base Station. With straps in the back can get the safety of a power rack, without having a permanent second set of uprights. Cantilevered safeties are good enough for 500 lb drops even on 2x3. Have some quick, novel way to tie a strap from cantilevered safety or bottom of the rack, to the top of the upright and you can be enclosed with a 20-24" depth.

As a Yoke, the empty weight needs to be around 180-200 lbs. Sorinex 3x3 Yoke is 320 lbs which is too much. Rogue YM-2 is 210 lbs. Y-2 is 195 lbs.

To bolt to floor temporarily there are drop in anchors right? For weight storage I prefer stuff like this http://www.roguefitness.com/rogue-ho...late-racks.php instead of loading on pins and trees. Or can roll this raised type of tree http://www.roguefitness.com/vertical-plate-tree.php over the back legs.

Sumo would be tricky, but stick some raised surfaces under ends, have a way to bolt in, drop anchors and it can be done.

Yea. This might also be the future. Steel saved and moar exercises possible. Because moar exercises is marketable, like a bowlflex.

[pvsampson]

Thanks for the responses guys.This country needs a decent locally made "lifters" rack,hence the question.Not many available and am trying to get an idea of what would be the dimensions to use for a good,basic,all around model.

It may happen and it may not,but if I don't try it I will never know if it would be a worthy enterprise.

[twodog]

Thanks for the responses guys.This country needs a decent locally made "lifters" rack,hence the question.Not many available and am trying to get an idea of what would be the dimensions to use for a good,basic,all around model.

It may happen and it may not,but if I don't try it I will never know if it would be a worthy enterprise.

I repped you for the thread, I really thought it would get more hits.

[pvsampson]

I repped you for the thread, I really thought it would get more hits.

Why I asked here is because to wade through the info on all the racks available would take sooooo long,and I came and asked the experts.I live in the bush,have never even seen a rack in real life,except for a true squat rack at a local gym I scoped out once.

If I wanted to actually look at one would mean travelling to Brisbane,find a supplier,etc.Not feasible for me.

Thanks mate.

EDIT: LOL,seems I'm on spread with you!

[daniel327]

This country needs a decent locally made "lifters" rack,hence the question.Not many available and am trying to get an idea of what would be the dimensions to use for a good,basic,all around model.

IMO, the market in Australia is actually pretty well covered with choices available for all price points.

For example, Gym Direct sells racks from cheap and nasty up to quite good racks.

Have you seen the new "commercial" rack? : http://www.gymdirect.com.au/item/Eli...-Rack/1048.htm

I agree that a locally made rack would be desirable, but with the cost of labour and materials in this country, combined with the limited market (we only have 23 million people here, and most of them don't even lift), I sincerely doubt that a locally made product would prove to be economically viable.

[Mech6]

I'm hoping to get a general idea on what is considered the "best" measurements for a full power rack.

That is width,height,depth.Also hole spacings,minimum and maximum hole height and how many are required for optimum use.What gauge and what size metal would be considered best?What is the favoured hook design and why? Best way of placing and removing hooks? What sort of safeties-rod,bar or sling?

I'd like your personal thoughts on what you would consider to be your perfect rack,and why.

As others, I can only state what I would do, for my inteded use.

Full rack
2x3 (2" wide, 3" deep). 1/8" is fine.
43" wide inside
30" deep inside
88" or more high inside
1.5" spacing from floor to top
NUMBERED HOLES.
Holes on sides of tubes for attachments. Every 3-6" is fine. Advantage of 2x3 is you can do this without too much structural weakening. Only reason for 2x3, otherwise go 2x2.
Holes would be for 5/8" pins. I don't like 1" pin j-hooks and others.
Flip down safeties for bench press, rod/pipe for pin pulls, hanging straps (form a center beam) for squats (my hands are wide, so hand would get pinched by safeties).
Sumo base. Bars raised so top is at 7-3/4". This way can still DL inside rack is needed
J-hook: bench 3/8" plate with a lip at about 45deg at front. Not too high. 1" max. So I can unrack heavy BP alone, easily. Deep enough for fat bars.
Weight storage if you want it

[pvsampson]

IMO, the market in Australia is actually pretty well covered with choices available for all price points.

For example, Gym Direct sells racks from cheap and nasty up to quite good racks.

Have you seen the new "commercial" rack? : http://www.gymdirect.com.au/item/Eli...-Rack/1048.htm

I agree that a locally made rack would be desirable, but with the cost of labour and materials in this country, combined with the limited market (we only have 23 million people here, and most of them don't even lift), I sincerely doubt that a locally made product would prove to be economically viable.

I'm a single dad pensioner.If I sold one a year I would be in front.And with a brand name of "Sampson",who wouldn't want one?!