*Insider Auto-Repair Info Thread*

[arkansawboy]

Misc Auto Section,

I'm the front desk man at my fathers auto shop in good ole Arkansaw and I am starting this thread to help any and all miscers with their automotive headaches.I have access to databases such as Identifix, AllData Repair, & other online catalogs and am willing to give you guys some very helpful "insider" information.

What I can offer:

Identifix - I can type in a symptom along with the vehicles year/make/model and see specifically what other mechanics/shops have done to fix the problem. This is extremely handy when it comes to narrowing down your options on fixes and repairs, and making a decision on what to do first. The best way to utilize this system is to have already scanned your ECM/PCM for codes. Take your car to Autozone where they can hook up a diagnostic scanner and give you the codes FOR FREE

AllData Repair - Dont know where a certain switch or sensor is? Don't know how to run a belt? Basically this sofware gives me an illustrated visual of every repair that needs to be done on most makes/models.

Online Catalogs (Autozone, Mighty, Etc.) - Usefull for finding correct part #s for your vehicle as well as other info. I am willing to share with you how much YOU should spend on certain parts & labor. I will NOT give you info on how much WE pay for parts, but I can and will make sure you are not getting ripped off.

Rules:

1. If you want help be specific and be sure to post year/make/model & engine size. If you dont know engine size I will tell you where/how to find it based on your vehicle.

2. Don't ask for dealer prices. I will not give you that info, but I will tell you what you should/shouldn't pay for repairs. This goes for everything from brakes, water pumps, A/C parts, tires.. basically everything other than transmission work or work that requires pulling the motor.

3. Don't post saying your check engine light is on and need help. THE BEST WAY TO HELP ME HELP YOU IS TO TAKE YOUR VEHICLE TO AUTOZONE FOR A FREE ENGINE DIAGNOSTIC/SCAN.. WRITE THOSE CODES DOWN AND INCLUDE THEM IN YOUR POST

4. Be patient. My work here comes first, I'm doing this because (based on my experience) I truly believe a ton of people get ripped off simply bc they have no clue what they are talking about when it comes to their car and some (not all) shops will take advantage of this.

5. Don't bitch. I will help, but I can't make any guarantees. If you want that, go to a dealer and pay for it


And go

[corksil]

First.

I'll post a question later when I have a moment.

[Sh1f7]

Great thread bro

[arkansawboy]

Great thread bro

been waiting for these guys to add an auto section so i could make it.

hopefully i can help some bros out.

[ace333]

got a P0453 CEL on my 2005 wrx. Help pls

[WSG1]

got a P0453 CEL on my 2005 wrx. Help pls

Your Fuel Pressure Sensor is bad

[mr4wdTRD]

Nice OP!

Here's a puzzler for ya that no one seems to be able to identify or fix.

This may be tougher since I believe it's related to aftermarket suspension...

Vehicle: 2007 toyota tundra SR5
Engine: 5.7L

Problem:

Occasionally, when turning a corner either right or left, whether coasting or through acceleration, I get a loud "pop" noise that I hear coming from the passenger rear of the truck. The popping sound has gone on for about 30k miles and no one can identify it. Not me, the dealer, or the off road shop I purchase parts from locally.

The truck came stock with the TRD package which included bilstein 5100 shocks. Though I've since replaced them with King coil overs.

I'm convinced that this is suspension related because it's intermittent and the noise has not affected the drivability at all. If it were rear diff related I'm convinced that after 30k miles it would have failed. Also, a full flush revealed no issues, no shavings, and clean diff oil.

Aftermarket that is relevant:

ProComp stage II 6" lift (blocked)
King coil overs
20" wheels/ 35" MTs

These wheels are HEAVY. Like I have a hard ass time removing and replacing a wheel myself. If this matters at all.

All leaf shackles are in tact. The lift was recently re-torqued, upper and lower control arms checked and tightened, bed bolts tightened, cool overs tightened.

Not sure what else to do but live with the annoying noise. Any thoughts?

[ace333]

Your Fuel Pressure Sensor is bad

not sure if that's it or not, I reset the ECU and it's been off ever since

[GetBigyo]

04 TSX 93K miles here.

Car has original clutch except previous owner replaced master slave cylinder, I believe. My car drives fine. No slippage except two things:

1) Random days, my clutch will make that "squeaky door cringing" sound, but other days it wont. Could it be temperature?

2) I've noticed I get "locked" out of going into 5th sometimes as if my foot isn't down on the clutch and I get the awful grind noise. Im not getting a grinding sound when getting it into 5th, it's I can't get the lever in 5th. It could be just me being derp and not having my foot all the way depressed on clutch, but it's only with 5th which makes me wonder. I usually shift pretty quick into 5th so im going to guess im moving my shifter before depressing clutch, actually, but will like answer anyways.

edit: It's actually probably 99% chance me being careless when going into 5th. My 4-5 ratio is so close I just shift pretty quick.

Will rep.

[arkansawboy]

Will diagnose all these Monday AM

got a P0453 CEL on my 2005 wrx. Help pls

Can't tell you off the top of my head but I'll run it Monday.

Good friend of mine's got an 08 STI w/cobb stage 2 programmer, downpipe, cat back and CAI.

Those things are truly amazing vehicles

Nice OP!

Here's a puzzler for ya that no one seems to be able to identify or fix.

This may be tougher since I believe it's related to aftermarket suspension...

Vehicle: 2007 toyota tundra SR5
Engine: 5.7L

Problem:

Occasionally, when turning a corner either right or left, whether coasting or through acceleration, I get a loud "pop" noise that I hear coming from the passenger rear of the truck. The popping sound has gone on for about 30k miles and no one can identify it. Not me, the dealer, or the off road shop I purchase parts from locally.

The truck came stock with the TRD package which included bilstein 5100 shocks. Though I've since replaced them with King coil overs.

I'm convinced that this is suspension related because it's intermittent and the noise has not affected the drivability at all. If it were rear diff related I'm convinced that after 30k miles it would have failed. Also, a full flush revealed no issues, no shavings, and clean diff oil.

Aftermarket that is relevant:

ProComp stage II 6" lift (blocked)
King coil overs
20" wheels/ 35" MTs

These wheels are HEAVY. Like I have a hard ass time removing and replacing a wheel myself. If this matters at all.

All leaf shackles are in tact. The lift was recently re-torqued, upper and lower control arms checked and tightened, bed bolts tightened, cool overs tightened.

Not sure what else to do but live with the annoying noise. Any thoughts?

I've had some trucks in the past.. '94 chevy, 6" fabtech, 3" body, 38.5/14.5/15r TSLs was my biggest. I know that feel with the tires lmao..

I'll try searching for applications of those coil overs first.

First thing that comes to mind is if they reused the stock shock/strut mounts.
I've seen that happen before and it causes noise but unlike your problem it usually does affect the ride
Not sure how it applies though with that lift either. This will surely be tricky but I'll see what I can find.
I've seen enough lifted Yotas in my area I'm sure somebody has listed a similar problem tho

04 TSX 93K miles here.

Car has original clutch except previous owner replaced master slave cylinder, I believe. My car drives fine. No slippage except two things:

1) Random days, my clutch will make that "squeaky door cringing" sound, but other days it wont. Could it be temperature?

2) I've noticed I get "locked" out of going into 5th sometimes as if my foot isn't down on the clutch and I get the awful grind noise. Im not getting a grinding sound when getting it into 5th, it's I can't get the lever in 5th. It could be just me being derp and not having my foot all the way depressed on clutch, but it's only with 5th which makes me wonder. I usually shift pretty quick into 5th so im going to guess im moving my shifter before depressing clutch, actually, but will like answer anyways.

edit: It's actually probably 99% chance me being careless when going into 5th. My 4-5 ratio is so close I just shift pretty quick.

Will rep.

Sounds like a problem with the clutch or driver

Ill search it and see if thats a problem area for that make/model

[NoneShallPass]

1996 Mazda Miata. It has a low idle.. Idles at like 550-600 unless I turn on the AC. If I do have the AC on it'll be at like 800 for example but still have an idle drop and go down to 600ish.. And then go back up in a little bit. It jumps around a bit. There's a little bit of shuddering-sounding noise as well. Tried asking on forums and people say check for
vacuum leaks?

[natypes]

2002 Xterra
3.3L V6
Random Misfire code P300B
Knock Sensor code unknown P0325 I think

Vehicle shakes at idle sometimes and has rough acceleration. CEL blinks during that time. I know that's bad. It runs fine sometimes. Seems to do it more when you've driven it then get back in it and start it up. But the cel is still on when it runs good. It runs worse with the cel off. It goes off sometimes and it runs really bad then. I know that has to do with limp mode and timing being retarded. Replaced plugs/wires last year. It always starts fines and never actually dies. Running some fuel injector cleaner through it now (Lucas). I know this probably will not do anything, but it has about 130,000 miles on it.

Thinking maybe the distributor....

[1twiztidprick]

You wouldn't happen to be able to get FSM's or chilton/haynes manuals, could you?

[Sh1f7]

2002 Xterra
3.3L V6
Random Misfire code P300B
Knock Sensor code unknown P0325 I think

Vehicle shakes at idle sometimes and has rough acceleration. CEL blinks during that time. I know that's bad. It runs fine sometimes. Seems to do it more when you've driven it then get back in it and start it up. But the cel is still on when it runs good. It runs worse with the cel off. It goes off sometimes and it runs really bad then. I know that has to do with limp mode and timing being retarded. Replaced plugs/wires last year. It always starts fines and never actually dies. Running some fuel injector cleaner through it now (Lucas). I know this probably will not do anything, but it has about 130,000 miles on it.

Thinking maybe the distributor....

Have you ever changed the Cap/rotor?

[cavfiredesire]

2002 Xterra
3.3L V6
Random Misfire code P300B
Knock Sensor code unknown P0325 I think

Vehicle shakes at idle sometimes and has rough acceleration. CEL blinks during that time. I know that's bad. It runs fine sometimes. Seems to do it more when you've driven it then get back in it and start it up. But the cel is still on when it runs good. It runs worse with the cel off. It goes off sometimes and it runs really bad then. I know that has to do with limp mode and timing being retarded. Replaced plugs/wires last year. It always starts fines and never actually dies. Running some fuel injector cleaner through it now (Lucas). I know this probably will not do anything, but it has about 130,000 miles on it.

Thinking maybe the distributor....

Fuel filter, plugs, wires and any other ignition related items can be at fault.

Pull a plug and post a pic, it will help tell how the motor is running.

[cavfiredesire]

1996 Mazda Miata. It has a low idle.. Idles at like 550-600 unless I turn on the AC. If I do have the AC on it'll be at like 800 for example but still have an idle drop and go down to 600ish.. And then go back up in a little bit. It jumps around a bit. There's a little bit of shuddering-sounding noise as well. Tried asking on forums and people say check for
vacuum leaks?

My thoughts would be the iac

A vacuum leak will make it have a higher idle.

[natypes]

Have you ever changed the Cap/rotor?

Not yet. Figure that's the cause.

Fuel filter, plugs, wires and any other ignition related items can be at fault.

Pull a plug and post a pic, it will help tell how the motor is running.

Replaced plugs/wires last year. Random misfire means its not a single cylinder. Doesn't do it everyday so idk if fuel filter could be it.

[Sh1f7]

Not yet. Figure that's the cause.

I would almost bet it is.

I think most need to be changed ever 100k or so

[natypes]

I would almost bet it is.

I think most need to be changed ever 100k or so

I have to change the entire distributor, right? Not just the rotor? Any way to test it or tell if it's bad?

[Sh1f7]

I have to change the entire distributor, right? Not just the rotor? Any way to test it or tell if it's bad?

You shouldnt have to change the whole thing, i mean its almost the whole thing but not.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...002&vi=1388167

BUT you can check out this vid if you want to check it out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tviHsB5LZzo

If I remember right you should change then cap and rotor every 100k miles so you should probably do this anyways.

I still dont understand why nissan didnt use solid state on these..

[TitusMaximus]

Repped op, will save thread/10

[SCUD001]

Nice OP!

Here's a puzzler for ya that no one seems to be able to identify or fix.

This may be tougher since I believe it's related to aftermarket suspension...

Vehicle: 2007 toyota tundra SR5
Engine: 5.7L

Problem:

Occasionally, when turning a corner either right or left, whether coasting or through acceleration, I get a loud "pop" noise that I hear coming from the passenger rear of the truck. The popping sound has gone on for about 30k miles and no one can identify it. Not me, the dealer, or the off road shop I purchase parts from locally.

The truck came stock with the TRD package which included bilstein 5100 shocks. Though I've since replaced them with King coil overs.

I'm convinced that this is suspension related because it's intermittent and the noise has not affected the drivability at all. If it were rear diff related I'm convinced that after 30k miles it would have failed. Also, a full flush revealed no issues, no shavings, and clean diff oil.

Aftermarket that is relevant:

ProComp stage II 6" lift (blocked)
King coil overs
20" wheels/ 35" MTs

These wheels are HEAVY. Like I have a hard ass time removing and replacing a wheel myself. If this matters at all.

All leaf shackles are in tact. The lift was recently re-torqued, upper and lower control arms checked and tightened, bed bolts tightened, cool overs tightened.

Not sure what else to do but live with the annoying noise. Any thoughts?

What kind of rear end you got bro? LSD? Locker? Could be clutches slipping internal to your rear end, probably need to add more friction modifier to the rear end to reduce chatter.....

[Ritchison01]

In for the future. This is awesome thanks OP

[arkansawboy]

Not one other '05 WRX (or any other WRX w/ the 2.0 and same ECM)has posted any specific fixes for this code.

What i've posted below is a rough rundown of troubleshoots to establish the cause.

Hope this helps.

got a P0453 CEL on my 2005 wrx. Help pls

1.CHECK CURRENT DATA.

1)Turn ignition switch to OFF.

2)Remove the fuel filler cap.

3)Install the fuel filler cap.

4)Turn ignition switch to ON.

5)Read the data of fuel tank pressure sensor signal using Subaru Select Monitor or the general scan tool.


2.CHECK POWER SUPPLY TO FUEL TANK PRESSURE SENSOR.


3.CHECK POWER SUPPLY TO FUEL TANK PRESSURE SENSOR.

Measure the voltage between ECM connector and chassis ground.

Connector & terminal

(B135) No. 9 (+) — Chassis ground (−):
Does the measured value exceed the specified value by shaking the ECM harness and connector?
Repair poor contact in ECM connector.
OR
Replace the ECM.

4.CHECK INPUT SIGNAL FOR ECM.

Measure the voltage between ECM and chassis ground.

Connector & terminal

(B135) No. 15 (+) — Chassis ground (−):
Is the voltage less than 0.2 V?



5.CHECK INPUT SIGNAL FOR ECM. (USING SUBARU SELECT MONITOR.)

Read the data of fuel tank pressure sensor signal using Subaru Select Monitor.

NOTE:

•Subaru Select Monitor

For detailed operation procedures, refer to “READ CURRENT DATA FOR ENGINE”.
Does the measured value exceed −2.8 kPa (−21.0 mmHg, −0.827 inHg) by shaking the ECM harness and connector?
Repair poor contact in ECM connector.


6.CHECK HARNESS BETWEEN ECM AND COUPLING CONNECTOR IN REAR WIRING HARNESS.

1)Turn ignition switch to OFF.

2)Remove the rear seat cushion.

3)Separate rear wiring harness and fuel tank cord.

4)Turn ignition switch to ON.

5)Measure the voltage between rear wiring harness connector and chassis ground.

Connector & terminal

(R15) No. 12 (+) — Chassis ground (−):
Is the voltage more than 4.5 V?

Repair harness and connector.

NOTE:

In this case, repair the following:

•Open circuit in harness between ECM and rear wiring harness connector

•Poor contact in coupling connector

7.CHECK HARNESS BETWEEN ECM AND COUPLING CONNECTOR IN REAR WIRING HARNESS.

1)Turn ignition switch to OFF.

2)Disconnect the connector from ECM.

3)Measure the resistance of harness between ECM and rear wiring harness connector.

Connector & terminal

(B135) No. 15 — (R15) No. 13:

(B135) No. 19 — (R15) No. 14:
Is the resistance less than 1 Ω?

Repair harness and connector.

NOTE:

In this case, repair the following:

•Open circuit in harness between ECM and rear wiring harness connector

•Poor contact in coupling connector

8.CHECK FUEL TANK CORD.

1)Disconnect the connector from fuel tank pressure sensor.

2)Measure the resistance of fuel tank cord.

Connector & terminal

(R57) No. 13 — (R47) No. 1:
Is the resistance less than 1 Ω?

Repair open circuit in fuel tank cord.

9.CHECK FUEL TANK CORD.

Measure the resistance of fuel tank cord.

Connector & terminal

(R57) No. 14 — (R47) No. 2:
Is the resistance less than 1 Ω?

Repair open circuit in fuel tank cord.

10.CHECK FOR POOR CONTACT.

Check for poor contact in fuel tank pressure sensor connector.
Is there poor contact in fuel tank pressure sensor connector?
Repair poor contact in fuel tank pressure sensor connector.
Replace the fuel tank pressure sensor.

11.CHECK HARNESS BETWEEN ECM AND FUEL TANK PRESSURE SENSOR CONNECTOR.

1)Turn ignition switch to OFF.

2)Disconnect the connector from fuel tank pressure sensor.

3)Turn ignition switch to ON.

4)Read the data of fuel tank pressure sensor signal using Subaru Select Monitor or the general scan tool.

NOTE:

•Subaru Select Monitor

For detailed operation procedures, refer to “READ CURRENT DATA FOR ENGINE”.

•General scan tool

For detailed operation procedures, refer to the General Scan Tool Instruction Manual.
Is the measured value more than 2.8 kPa (21.0 mmHg, 0.827 inHg)?
Repair short circuit to battery in harness between ECM and fuel tank pressure sensor connector.
Replace the fuel tank pressure sensor.

[arkansawboy]

Nice OP!

Here's a puzzler for ya that no one seems to be able to identify or fix.

This may be tougher since I believe it's related to aftermarket suspension...

Vehicle: 2007 toyota tundra SR5
Engine: 5.7L

Problem:

Occasionally, when turning a corner either right or left, whether coasting or through acceleration, I get a loud "pop" noise that I hear coming from the passenger rear of the truck. The popping sound has gone on for about 30k miles and no one can identify it. Not me, the dealer, or the off road shop I purchase parts from locally.

The truck came stock with the TRD package which included bilstein 5100 shocks. Though I've since replaced them with King coil overs.

I'm convinced that this is suspension related because it's intermittent and the noise has not affected the drivability at all. If it were rear diff related I'm convinced that after 30k miles it would have failed. Also, a full flush revealed no issues, no shavings, and clean diff oil.

Aftermarket that is relevant:

ProComp stage II 6" lift (blocked)
King coil overs
20" wheels/ 35" MTs

These wheels are HEAVY. Like I have a hard ass time removing and replacing a wheel myself. If this matters at all.

All leaf shackles are in tact. The lift was recently re-torqued, upper and lower control arms checked and tightened, bed bolts tightened, cool overs tightened.

Not sure what else to do but live with the annoying noise. Any thoughts?

Quite a few different possibilities...

Posts #2 has simliar issue but no resolve
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...-when-turning/

Post #1 -
http://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tun...ng-solved.html

I made an appointment today with the local Toyo dealer. At this time I had a friend lean out the window and they were almost positive they noise was from the rear. So I take it in and explain. They call and say the problem is the "backing plate", which I assume is the heat shield is warped/bent from heat and they can try to bend it back.

Well, I pick it up and that is what it was, the heat shield rubbing against the rotor on the rear passenger side. They bent it back and now no noise that I can tell. We will see if this happens again or is just a one time problem.

& Post #10 (Tundra w/ King Coil Overs) http://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tun...ng-solved.html

"My truck does the same thing... I tried bending back the front brake backing plates with no luck, I will be bending the rears back today! Hopefully it works! Thanks guys! "

Post #5 Claims Transmission Mount
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...popping-noise/

Post #8 http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...er-truck-rear/
"The infamous "thump" only occurs when you stop at a red light or stop sign after driving for a while. Within a second after you stop, it feels like your truck was hit from behind and it makes a low frequency thump.

The first time it happened to me I even got out of the truck and looked behind, underneath and everywhere. Nobody was close by !

What causes that is actually quite simple: It is the rear drive shaft ( on a 4X4 truck). Right before the rear end, there is a sleeve that moves forward or backward as needed. As you stop, the truck leans forward, then settles down and the sleeve slides back a bit............ THAT is what causes the "thump"

The easy fix: Crawl under the truck with a grease gun and LUBE the grease Zerk near the rear end with Molybdenum/Lithium grease. If you do that every time you change the oil, you will never experience the thump "

[arkansawboy]

1996 Mazda Miata. It has a low idle.. Idles at like 550-600 unless I turn on the AC. If I do have the AC on it'll be at like 800 for example but still have an idle drop and go down to 600ish.. And then go back up in a little bit. It jumps around a bit. There's a little bit of shuddering-sounding noise as well. Tried asking on forums and people say check for
vacuum leaks?

Based on the shuddering my first thought is a cylinder misfire.

Take to autozone, some codes are present without the CEL on.

Could be something as simple as a fouled plug or plug wire.

Could be a # of things. Codes woul dhelp

[natypes]

You shouldnt have to change the whole thing, i mean its almost the whole thing but not.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...002&vi=1388167

BUT you can check out this vid if you want to check it out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tviHsB5LZzo

If I remember right you should change then cap and rotor every 100k miles so you should probably do this anyways.

I still dont understand why nissan didnt use solid state on these..

Awesome thanks buddy. I'll pull it this week and have a look-see.

[Sh1f7]

Awesome thanks buddy. I'll pull it this week and have a look-see.

Let me know how it goes bro

[1twiztidprick]

Could you give me the AllData diag procedure for steering slop on a 91 Camaro? I'm familiar with that software from previous jobs.

[arkansawboy]

Could you give me the AllData diag procedure for steering slop on a 91 Camaro? I'm familiar with that software from previous jobs.

Check back tomorrow.

Should have it by noon.