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  1. #11551
    Registered User twodog's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by deadwoodgregg View Post

    We're talking Wisconsin here ... of course they still VHS
    "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do, than by the ones you did" Mark Twain

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  2. #11552
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  3. #11553
    Registered User twodog's Avatar
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    There you go, lol. They must have the beer hidden in the cubbies .

    One of my best friends is from Green Bay.
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  4. #11554
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    Originally Posted by p0opstlnksal0t View Post
    What should I look for when i go look at this barbell?
    Hmmm, listing a brand and model number is a typo?

    scam
    skam/
    nouninformal
    1.a dishonest scheme; a fraud.
    "an insurance scam"
    synonyms: fraud, swindle, fraudulent scheme, racket, trick
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  5. #11555
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  6. #11556
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    Originally Posted by aclockworkoi View Post
    Someone get his revolvers
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  7. #11557
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    Originally Posted by Conquer92 View Post
    Someone get his revolvers
    I knew somebody would call those out. It doesn't seem like they're selling anything else though
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  8. #11558
    Nothing To See Here cgc's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by blazer326 View Post
    personal add.
    This section is not for people to sell personal items. It's to help those looking for items and prices.

    Thanks.
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  9. #11559
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    Originally Posted by p0opstlnksal0t View Post
    Anyone know how I can verify this Barbell is indeed a Samson made bar?

    http://houston.craigslist.org/spo/4401972028.html

    seller lists bar as:


    How can I tell this bar is not some china sh!t bar when i go look at it? I will be bringing some calipers to measure the shank but that will only tell me the shank diameter...

    This is samsons site and I dont see "OBLS" listed anywhere... http://www.samsonequipment.com/Olympic-Bars.html

    just heard back from this guy...
    ME: Quick question for ya? How do you know the barbell is the samson lifting bar? Their website does not show any OBLS as a model. http://www.samsonequipment.com/Olympic-Bars.html

    Seller:
    I think it may have been a typo. The equipment was given to me and it's all samson or troy so I figured the bar is as well. You can take a look at it when we meet up.

    What should I look for when i go look at this barbell?


    How could I tell if a barbell sold on craigs is a cheap china bar?

    What would you offer for a good condition barbell not knowing who made it or what it is?

    I will be bringing a caliper to measure the shaft OD as well as the overall length but this wont tell me much.
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  10. #11560
    Unregistered User Cleveland33's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by p0opstlnksal0t View Post
    How could I tell if a barbell sold on craigs is a cheap china bar?

    What would you offer for a good condition barbell not knowing who made it or what it is?

    I will be bringing a caliper to measure the shaft OD as well as the overall length but this wont tell me much.
    That's why it is tough, and generally you only pay real money for a bar that you can easily identify - like a TPB or a vintage York.
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  11. #11561
    8===D~~~~ (.) (.) p0opstlnksal0t's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by Cleveland33 View Post
    That's why it is tough, and generally you only pay real money for a bar that you can easily identify - like a TPB or a vintage York.
    I might just offer him like 30 bucks for the bar. I will know if its the Samson Oly. Lifting bar if its colored goldish likely from the zinc coating they show on their site and has the same endcaps... otherwise it might as well be a cheap china bar.

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  12. #11562
    Unregistered User Cleveland33's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by p0opstlnksal0t View Post
    I might just offer him like 30 bucks for the bar. I will know if its the Samson Oly. Lifting bar if its colored goldish likely from the zinc coating they show on their site and has the same endcaps... otherwise it might as well be a cheap china bar.

    yea that's nice that they make their bar identifiable. too many aren't
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  13. #11563
    Registered User morebarbell's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by p0opstlnksal0t View Post
    How could I tell if a barbell sold on craigs is a cheap china bar?

    What would you offer for a good condition barbell not knowing who made it or what it is?

    I will be bringing a caliper to measure the shaft OD as well as the overall length but this wont tell me much.
    It should be easy to tell if it's a cheapo. Learn to recognize quality. A lot of folks just don't seem to get this. The economy products from popular brands often sell for as much as the top of the line products from the same brand because people don't know the difference. They only recognize the brand. If you learn to recognize quality, you won't be fooled. Some of the easier to identify bars (York, Ivanko, TPB, Iron Grip) are low hanging fruit--You can look up the specs. But there are examples of differences in quality from those brands. For example, there are TPB made for Troy and economy bars made by Ivanko. They aren't all the same. If the bar is unmarked, you're not going to know the specs for the steel but you can tell a lot from its construction.

    Ignore what the seller happens to say. Definitely ignore the stock photos pulled from the web. LOOK at the bar. How is it constructed? Give it a kick. Spin the sleeves. Is it straight? How is the knurl? A good place to start a barbell education is the barbell thread. There's also a good youtube video of Mark Rippetoe talking about bars.
    Last edited by morebarbell; 05-09-2014 at 09:11 AM.
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  14. #11564
    8===D~~~~ (.) (.) p0opstlnksal0t's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by morebarbell View Post
    It should be easy to tell if it's a cheapo. Learn to recognize quality. A lot of folks just don't seem to get this. The economy products from popular brands often sell for as much as the top of the line products from the same brand because people don't know the difference. They only recognize the brand. If you learn to recognize quality, you won't be fooled. Some of the easier to identify bars (York, Ivanko, TPB) are low hanging fruit. You can look up the specs. But there are examples of differences in quality from those brands. For example, there are TPB made by Troy and economy bars made by Ivanko. They aren't all the same. If the bar is unmarked, you're not going to know the specs for the steel but you can tell a lot from its construction.

    Ignore what the seller happens to say. Definitely ignore the stock photos pulled from the web. LOOK at the bar. How is it constructed? Give it a kick. Spin the sleeves. Is it straight? How is the knurl? A good place to start a barbell education is the barbell thread. There's also a good youtube video of Mark Rippetoe talking about bars.
    Thanks man, good info. I'm pretty noobish in the barbell construction knowledge. When it comes to tools and such Im spot on, but this is really my first go at setting up a garage gym and experience buying gym equipment. Ill look for that Rippetoe video
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  15. #11565
    Registered User morebarbell's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by p0opstlnksal0t View Post
    Thanks man, good info. I'm pretty noobish in the barbell construction knowledge. When it comes to tools and such Im spot on, but this is really my first go at setting up a garage gym and experience buying gym equipment. Ill look for that Rippetoe video
    barbell thread:
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    Rippetoe how to see if a bar is bent video:


    If the seller can't clearly demonstrate the make and model as an expensive bar, you can use that to your advantage in your negotiation. I'm not sure what you already have in your gym but keep in mind that you can get a DECENT CAP OB-86B bar (not to be confused with most of the other models from CAP) for around $130 shipped from Walmart/Amazon/Wayfair.
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  16. #11566
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    How much would you guys pay for 1000lbs of igx dumbbells? in decent condtion
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  17. #11567
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    Either tree fiddy, or the going rate of .20/lb....and I would only pay that if a wedding was en route.
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  18. #11568
    Can't break what's broken Synthetickiller's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by deadwoodgregg View Post
    High dollar items, but asking price is $1200-$1300 off of new pricing for brand new gear.

    http://cosprings.craigslist.org/spo/4450707494.html



    There should be collars with this set.

    That's a really good price. I've never seen these for sale, especially new. If my pockets were deep enough, I'd be all over it.

    Are the collars in the box?


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    Originally Posted by 2MoreRepz View Post
    Either tree fiddy, or the going rate of .20/lb....and I would only pay that if a wedding was en route.
    was srs ^^
    soemoen is selling me dumbbells 10-100lbs , but with missing sets total of 1080lbs
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  20. #11570
    York Man AttyGuy's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by imTRYHARD View Post
    was srs ^^
    soemoen is selling me dumbbells 10-100lbs , but with missing sets total of 1080lbs
    Yeah, we don't do price checks much anymore. . . .
    You need a good rack, a bench, and a 300-lb Olympic weight set. Now, what was your question?

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  21. #11571
    Gandalf of the Gym cmarti063's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by imTRYHARD View Post
    was srs ^^
    soemoen is selling me dumbbells 10-100lbs , but with missing sets total of 1080lbs
    Need more info. Pro style or solid? Iron, rubber, or urethane?
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    Originally Posted by imTRYHARD View Post
    was srs ^^
    soemoen is selling me dumbbells 10-100lbs , but with missing sets total of 1080lbs
    Here is an easy formula: look up lowest retail price and divide by two. If half of retail sounds like a price you couldn't pass up and is less than what the seller asked for, offer that. If half of retail is still too much for you, offer whatever you want and be prepared to be turned down. What it's worth to somebody else is irrelevant, unless you're looking to flip equipment.

    Much like buying/selling a home, it doesn't matter what the "true value" is, only what the buyer and seller believe the value is.
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    Originally Posted by cmarti063 View Post
    Need more info. Pro style or solid? Iron, rubber, or urethane?
    http: //postimg.org/image/o7tdo4skr/


    Pro style

    95 90 85 65 55 45 2 sets of 40 and 30. 35 25 20 12.5 and 10

    missing 100s 1 80 75s 70s 60s 50s
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    embedded
    Originally Posted by imTRYHARD View Post



    Pro style

    95 90 85 65 55 45 2 sets of 40 and 30. 35 25 20 12.5 and 10

    missing 100s 1 80 75s 70s 60s 50s
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    Gandalf of the Gym cmarti063's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by imTRYHARD View Post
    http: //postimg.org/image/o7tdo4skr/


    Pro style

    95 90 85 65 55 45 2 sets of 40 and 30. 35 25 20 12.5 and 10

    missing 100s 1 80 75s 70s 60s 50s
    Missing a random lot of dumbbells, there. I probably would offer less than what they are "worth" for being so incomplete. It would take real effort to fill that set in with matching dumbbells. I think if the set was whole, they would be $0.70-1.00/lb. With the set so incomplete, if you want them, I would look at $0.50-0.65/lb.
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    Originally Posted by cmarti063 View Post
    Missing a random lot of dumbbells, there. I probably would offer less than what they are "worth" for being so incomplete. It would take real effort to fill that set in with matching dumbbells. I think if the set was whole, they would be $0.70-1.00/lb. With the set so incomplete, if you want them, I would look at $0.50-0.65/lb.
    He was selling me everything for 450$
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    Originally Posted by imTRYHARD View Post
    He was selling me everything for 450$
    Then if you want them, that is perfectly fair.
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    Originally Posted by morebarbell View Post
    barbell thread:
    http://forum.bodybuilding.com/showth...hp?t=115122621

    Rippetoe how to see if a bar is bent video:


    If the seller can't clearly demonstrate the make and model as an expensive bar, you can use that to your advantage in your negotiation. I'm not sure what you already have in your gym but keep in mind that you can get a DECENT CAP OB-86B bar (not to be confused with most of the other models from CAP) for around $130 shipped from Walmart/Amazon/Wayfair.
    The Barbell thread that MB referenced is a great tool to learn about bars in general.

    Just to add on, if it has a hex bolt holding the ends on, it generally is junk. There are a few notable exceptions--Ivanko made one that is highly desirable, but that is a good rule of thumb. A few Chinese manufacturers have actually started adding an end cap that hides the hex bolt for this reason. It usually is held on by a set screw right at the end of the sleeve.

    Also check out the knurling. If it is typical knurling like you find on a junk bar, then it is likely a junk bar. Every well-made bar that I have ever held has good knurling. The knurl may be too deep for my taste, but it has a very different feel from a crap bar.
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    []---[] York Barbell Club #59 []---[]
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    Come on guys. Why has nobody been posting deals? Let's see em. It's all dry near me
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    Originally Posted by Broseph82 View Post
    Come on guys. Why has nobody been posting deals? Let's see em. It's all dry near me
    There is a new thread. This one it dying out.
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