The 'No Excuses Homemade Equipment Crew'

[murphyreedus]

I was sick of having to unrack my weights when im dont squatting so I decided to drill holes in the front so I have a place to stick another bar for bench press. I used a step up bit...which by the way is awesome. Tears through metal...not to mention I didnt have standard bits larger than 1/2"...I drilled a 1" hole. I step up bit was $17. I didnt bother with lubricant...just drilled a little and let the bit cool off...although it never really got so hot where I couldnt touch it.

Anyway...this is the result. I used a 3/4" pipe...8" long. I should have went with the 6" pipe but I didnt feel like driving back to lowes. It was already the 2nd trip I made...wasnt making a 3rd.

Nice work. I'll be adding a bunch of holes to my rack for band pegs and to mount a land mine before I paint it. Step bits are definitely a time and money saver.

I usually average about 3 Menards trips when I'm doing a project. Fortunately, Menards is only 10 minutes away.

[irongrandpa]

Bulkmore, if this was my project, I would replace the hose clamps with a piece of rubber hose or PVC between the upright and end caps. Nice solution.

[BulkMore]

Bulkmore, if this was my project, I would replace the hose clamps with a piece of rubber hose or PVC between the upright and end caps. Nice solution.

I actually wanted to use pvc pipe but if I did the bar would just roll off the end...the end cap wouldnt stop it. I thought about using a floor flange for the ends...that would allow me to use pvc pipe.

[irongrandpa]

I actually wanted to use pvc pipe but if I did the bar would just roll off the end...the end cap wouldnt stop it. I thought about using a floor flange for the ends...that would allow me to use pvc pipe.

Gotcha, maybe put a washer between the PVC and the endcap, that would be smaller than those flanges. My stock j-hooks for my Magnum rack had a handle on the back side , I welded a piece of steel on the end and glued rubber on the handle so I could use it as a j-hook on the front of my rack.

[elefoot]

Thought I'd share a few pictures of my homemade safety squat bar.

I had been wanting to try one for a while but didn't want to pay for the privilege, so out of scrap I had laying around (I have been trying to make sure all my builds and purchases have cost minimal amounts) I used a scaffold pole and some 60x60 3mm walled box section, some 1inch diameter bar and some high density foam that was used as packing at work, fixed on with duct tape, and the bar was all welded together with a crappy stick welder.

I cut holes inch holes in the scaffold so that the bar for the handles would lot straight through, and also on the box section I cut holes so that the scaffold would slide through one side and out the other and then welded, as with most of my welding I try and interlock pieces so that the weight isn't relying completely on just a fillet weld.

The hardest part was aligning the holes for the handles, as I have no specialist tools, just a hand drill with hole saws and step bits.

I based the dimensions off of a variety of ssb's I was looking at, but really played around as I was building it. The handles are angled and I can use it without holding the bar, it stays put on the back and weighs just over 15kg empty. I haven't finished it, as I only painted the welds to ensure they didn't rust and as you can see the padding isn't going to win any awards but for the price of a morning in the garden its come out fine and has been my most used (often only used bar) for the past 6 months are so.

[irongrandpa]

Thought I'd share a few pictures of my homemade safety squat bar.

I had been wanting to try one for a while but didn't want to pay for the privilege, so out of scrap I had laying around (I have been trying to make sure all my builds and purchases have cost minimal amounts) I used a scaffold pole and some 60x60 3mm walled box section, some 1inch diameter bar and some high density foam that was used as packing at work, fixed on with duct tape, and the bar was all welded together with a crappy stick welder.

I cut holes inch holes in the scaffold so that the bar for the handles would lot straight through, and also on the box section I cut holes so that the scaffold would slide through one side and out the other and then welded, as with most of my welding I try and interlock pieces so that the weight isn't relying completely on just a fillet weld.

The hardest part was aligning the holes for the handles, as I have no specialist tools, just a hand drill with hole saws and step bits.

I based the dimensions off of a variety of ssb's I was looking at, but really played around as I was building it. The handles are angled and I can use it without holding the bar, it stays put on the back and weighs just over 15kg empty. I haven't finished it, as I only painted the welds to ensure they didn't rust and as you can see the padding isn't going to win any awards but for the price of a morning in the garden its come out fine and has been my most used (often only used bar) for the past 6 months are so.

Nice work, repped!

[Skidmarx]

I like that bar. You know foam rollers are pretty cheap on ebay, if those pads become an issue

[HomeGymChains]

I posted this in the "pics and discussion of your home gym v2.0" thread a while back, but I though the homemade thread might also be interested in seeing this cheap, home-grown safety solution. (About a year ago I started getting more serious about working out at home. After failing to complete a bench press, though, I ended up with a barbell on my neck, so I am extremely lucky to still be here. I resolved never to be in that situation again.)

I decided to use chains as a safety system for bench press. The length of the chain is set about half an inch below touch, so if I get in trouble I can slide out from under the bar. The elastic cords keep the links headed upward from the bar to keep the lift smoother and quieter.



Then I decided that I could also use it for squats, which I never used to do at home. Not as good as a real squat rack, since the bar starting position is at the bottom of the lift instead of the top of the lift, but hey, it's a technique, and I'm finally doing squats at home. Here's a picture with the bar hanging at the bottom of my squat setting, before I move the bench out of the way.



Then I got tired of fussing with the "quick links" that needed a wrench to tighten and loosen, so I replaced them with "grab hooks" for instant adjustments of the chain length.



And hey, as long as I had the framework up there, I added a pulley. To help keep the cable in the groove and low friction, those are furniture glides on either side of the pulley.

[farmerajm]

In!

As a woodshop teacher, metals shop teacher, and welding teacher, this is right up my alley!

[EleikoFanboy]

In post #1990 I showed my mini deadlift jacks. Found out that over 250kg it gets difficult to lift the bar with that type of jack so made a new version.

Dunno if I can post video yet due to post count but here is the link:

youtu.be/AxD9CVa5snU

I can jack up 10x25kg plates with ease, one hand. Very light, very compact, very sexy.

[redviking]

In post #1990 I showed my mini deadlift jacks. Found out that over 250kg it gets difficult to lift the bar with that type of jack so made a new version.

Dunno if I can post video yet due to post count but here is the link:

youtu.be/AxD9CVa5snU

I can jack up 10x25kg plates with ease, one hand. Very light, very compact, very sexy.

Brilliant! It's a bit similar to the Genesis jack

[EleikoFanboy]

Brilliant! It's a bit similar to the Genesis jack

Nothing like mine. It's WAY sexier than mine. Looks like it was made by NASA. Plus it's classy and has a kool logo cut into it. And it's shiny. And it has spaceship bolts 'n spacers 'n chit.

Mine is more like a home made robot with parts sourced from a blender and a washing machine.

Just did a google search and one of the videos for the genesis jack complained about the grip and the plastic bar protectors. Mine has a real nice feel to it as it's a tube, not flat metal. I have big hands so I expect that if someone with small hands used it, it would feel even better. And that's without any real attempt at a handle. Mine will have the plastic over the metal, not next to it.

I am assuming my design will need a bit of tweaking, even if only cosmetically, after I use it for a while. I've only just made it from scratch this week after struggling with the old style jack.

My idea was based on some home made jacks at the gym I used to go to. They were pretty much the same as the old style mini jack but had a long arse handle that made lifting big loads very easy. But they were very bulky and heavy, probably less convenient than a full sized jack. In fact, everyone used them just like a full sized jack, two at a time but they weren't joined, so a bit fiddly to engage and then not a lot of control when dropping the barbell.

I have seen a mini jack for sale somewhere that had a long handle just behind the barbell hook. But they were even heavier and bulkier than the original.

Mine is basically just a handle with the bar hook tacked on.

The plastic thats arriving tomorrow is hmw plastic and can be heat molded. Genesis uses uhmw which can only be cold rolled. I will have it drilled, countersunk and screwed into the handle and bent to fit the hook. When it wears out, it will break off so you will know when it needs replacing. The GJ looks like there is almost no protection from the hardened aluminium body as the plastic looks flush with the metal. I wouldn't like that on my Eleiko comp bar.

If you are one of those guys who is a gym gear collector more than a gym user, the Genesis looks like a sexy addition to stand in the corner for $100 plus tax and shipping and all that. Mine you can make on a saturday afternoon for $10.

[EleikoFanboy]

Found a pic of one of the jacks from the old gym. Big and bulky but worked OK compared to a "normal" mini jack.

I've essentially just moved the handle to a vertical position behind the bar hook.

[EricAtl]

In post #1990 I showed my mini deadlift jacks. Found out that over 250kg it gets difficult to lift the bar with that type of jack so made a new version.

Dunno if I can post video yet due to post count but here is the link:

youtu.be/AxD9CVa5snU

I can jack up 10x25kg plates with ease, one hand. Very light, very compact, very sexy.

Very nice.

[RestoringTally]

Found a pic of one of the jacks from the old gym. Big and bulky but worked OK compared to a "normal" mini jack.

I've essentially just moved the handle to a vertical position behind the bar hook.

Sweet. After you use it for a while will you publish the dimensions or a drawing?

[EleikoFanboy]

Sweet. After you use it for a while will you publish the dimensions or a drawing?

Sure. The main issue is getting the angle between the foot and the upright correct. Then the bar hook has to be placed in the right spot to make sure the plates just clear the ground.

Have not tried this with those weird hexagonal plates cos, well, I hate them and never would use them for deadlifts. Max plate dimension is 450mm, the standard size for powerlifting and weightlifting competition plates. So if the hex plates are wider than that, there could be an issue. My fix for that is to toss that chit and go buy proper plates.

I also intend to make a jig so that I can make the exact same jack every time. Will post that when its done.

[EleikoFanboy]

I also banged this up.

A full barbell jack is much easier and convenient to use, it's just real bulky, especially for a garage or home gym where space is usually at a premium.

A full barbell jack enables you to lift the entire bar in one movement so that plates from either/both ends can be handled. This is probably more important in a competition where speed is required to change plates between attempts without eating up the clock (comps are notorious for going overtime). But also in a training session, a full jack is more convenient to use where there are two or more people training together. Or, if it's just you, you don't have to double handle the barbell. So there are a few reasons why a full barbell jack is better.

The problem is that they take up space. Not a real issue if you have a big commercial gym with multiple platforms and lots of space. But, as is the case, a small or crowded gym can have storage problems.

Enter the Comp version.

Two mini jacks, a cross piece to hold them together and a handle. The whole thing weighs about 6kg. The Rogue barbell jack weighs over double that.

It's held together with 3 thumbscrews and breaks down into a package that can be thrown into corner, slipped under a dumbbell rack or hung on the wall. Pretty kool.

I need to fiddle with this a bit to make sure the screws never loosen during use. It's very light, seems almost too light to do the job but handles over 300kg with ease.

[EleikoFanboy]

I made a video of my home gym, showing what gear I use and how I set it up. OK, no biggy, everyone seems to have done one of those, but mine is a little different. It's set up for what I need and how I train so no run-of-the-mill power rack with "I bought my entire gym at Rogue" crap.

Also, as shown in the comment section, I show you how I levelled my garage floor so that there are no issues with loaded barbells rolling down the street or hip surgery from deadlifting 300kg on an angle.

Check it out and let me know your thoughts and suggetions.

youtube.com/watch?v=0tBmB7re-xg

(not enough posts for vid attachment, sorry.)

[ampire]

Nice gym and thanks for showing the leveling.

[JustTheDad]

It's set up for what I need and how I train so no run-of-the-mill power rack with "I bought my entire gym at Rogue" crap.

Hey, I resemble that comment LOL.
Nice job on the DL jack. I'm about to CNC one out of wood since I haven't learned to weld yet. I drew up a test design in Fusion on Monday that's very similar in concept to yours. I just have to make sure the grip swing length to vertical lift ratio is ok. If I lift the bar 1"and the handle arc length is 1', I get about a 12:1 advantage. I say about, because it takes some force to move the bar horizontally, and because the plates don't all move the same amount the way they do with a full sized DL jack.
So on your design, if you want it to lift the bar another centimeter or so, just make the handle a little longer and make sure your material strength is sufficient. I like your design more than the Genesis one. Not as portable, but more advantage.

[irongrandpa]

I got around to building a 3rd shelf for my dumbell rack so I could get the smaller roundheads off of the floor.



Before, as a 2 tier rack.




After, with 3 tiers. The boss is happy with the smaller dumbells off the floor.

[EricAtl]

I got around to building a 3rd shelf for my dumbell rack so I could get the smaller roundheads off of the floor.



Before, as a 2 tier rack.




After, with 3 tiers. The boss is happy with the smaller dumbells off the floor.

Super!

[matrix563]

I got around to building a 3rd shelf for my dumbell rack so I could get the smaller roundheads off of the floor.



Before, as a 2 tier rack.




After, with 3 tiers. The boss is happy with the smaller dumbells off the floor.

very nice. on spread

[EleikoFanboy]

Hey, I resemble that comment LOL.
Nice job on the DL jack. I'm about to CNC one out of wood since I haven't learned to weld yet. I drew up a test design in Fusion on Monday that's very similar in concept to yours. I just have to make sure the grip swing length to vertical lift ratio is ok. If I lift the bar 1"and the handle arc length is 1', I get about a 12:1 advantage. I say about, because it takes some force to move the bar horizontally, and because the plates don't all move the same amount the way they do with a full sized DL jack.
So on your design, if you want it to lift the bar another centimeter or so, just make the handle a little longer and make sure your material strength is sufficient. I like your design more than the Genesis one. Not as portable, but more advantage.

Yeah, I saw the new full barbell jack by Genesis and it looks crappy. Not sure why it needs three mini jacks to do the job and, since one is $100, I'm guessing there is no financial reason to buy one (whatever it will cost) over a standard jack.

My full jack is very light, smaller and can be taken apart in seconds to store out of the way.

I made mine to lift the plates/bar as little as possible. Once the plates are clear of the floor, if only by 1cm or so, that's more than enough to slip on (or off) a plate. That's one of the weak points of a commercial jack. Way too much travel for the job at hand.

The Genesis looks much better, very slick, and is narrower on it's footprint, but I guess that also makes it less stable. Mine can still be tossed into a bag and the handle is definitely more comfy to grip.

I am guessing that the size of a full jack is the reason why so many don't have one in their home (or commercial) gym. Just too much footprint for the job it does. That's why I made mine modular so it can break down for storage without needing tools.

I have tested the mini (lifting only one end of the bar) with over 300kg on one sleeve and it worked easy.

[EleikoFanboy]

I got around to building a 3rd shelf for my dumbell rack so I could get the smaller roundheads off of the floor.

Before, as a 2 tier rack.



After, with 3 tiers. The boss is happy with the smaller dumbells off the floor.

That looks great.

I could never figure out why gyms put the heaviest dumbbells on the bottom rack. Much easier to unload and load from the middle.

[irongrandpa]

That looks great.

I could never figure out why gyms put the heaviest dumbbells on the bottom rack. Much easier to unload and load from the middle.

I agree, not only are my heavier dumbells on the middle shelf, which for me, is almost hip height, but all my rack stored 45's are on a similar height weight horn.

[RestoringTally]

I could never figure out why gyms put the heaviest dumbbells on the bottom rack. Much easier to unload and load from the middle.

Most gyms put the heaviest DBs on the bottom because they are the least used. The lightweight dumbbells, though, are easily accessible for those that want to curl next to the DB rack.

[ampire]

Most gyms put the heaviest DBs on the bottom because they are the least used. The lightweight dumbbells, though, are easily accessible for those that want to curl next to the DB rack.

Another possible reason is that placing the heaviest on the bottom of rack is more stable with a lower center of mass. Doesn't make it easy to unrack 100+ though.

[EleikoFanboy]

I assume it's because no phukka puts their weights away in a commercial gym so it's easy for the staff just to roll the big ones across the floor.

[JustTheDad]

OSB to test how it felt.
Extended the handle a few inches and cut the center piece out of a 1.15" thick board.
I'll probably run two more outer pieces from a purple heart board I have to make it 3" thick below the handle portion.
Then I'll router the grip portion rounded and call it version 1.