***official auto detailing thread***

[Alex226]

Here we discuss what products and equipment we use, what techniques we use, answer any questions people have and just talk about detailing in general. (and this can include RVs, motorcyles, planes, etc..)

If you have questions make sure you provide a detailed explanation or provide pictures...even then it can be hard to conclude what the problem could be without seeing it in person.

Some products I use:
Flex 3401 VRG
Wheel Woolies
Wool Wash Mitts
Adam's Americana Paste Wax
MF cutting/polishing pads
And many many more...



I always try to buy and test products when I can, but have settled on a handful of some.

Some random pictures I have...

Just bought AMMO's Wheel regimen a few weeks ago and love it.


This stuff is a joke and a rip-off service done at dealers only. Only car dealers get their hands on this stuff.


One of the many ways to clean dirty wheels.


GO!

inb4 last page

What type of rims do you have?

[BrianK.]

What type of rims do you have?

Those are stock 2011 Base Subaru WRX STI wheels made by Enkei.

[Niko49ers]

My 240sx has the stock rims that are made of aluminum. What is the best rim cleaner for my rims?

[BigB02z28]

My 240sx has the stock rims that are made of aluminum. What is the best rim cleaner for my rims?

I use Sonax to clean, polish with Flitz, and seal with Opti-Seal. Then all I ever need to clean them is soap and water.

edit: assuming they're polished aluminum and not coated. In which case I would treat the polishing step same as I would a painted panel.

[spirit750]

Alright I've read the whole thread I'm pretty amazed at the level of detailing that you guys go through. And by amazed I mean impressed. There are a couple of "Car detailers" around me that consider wash+wax+interior to be detailing. They charge accordingly though, usually about $100 for full detail for an average sized vehicle. There isn't anybody that details with this type of precision though. I'm thinking this might be a product of the environment though. I live in western kentucky and during our dry season we still have rain every couple of weeks, high humidity, and BUGS.

The bugs are the biggest problem. I have a friend that moved from Texas to here and he said the difference in bugs is unbelievable. Its like they get imbedded in the paint. Sometimes they're big enough that they actually chip the paint. Anybody have any tips for bug removal? During the fall it gets ridiculous.

And awesome thread so far, learned a lot.

[BrianK.]

Alright I've read the whole thread I'm pretty amazed at the level of detailing that you guys go through. And by amazed I mean impressed. There are a couple of "Car detailers" around me that consider wash+wax+interior to be detailing. They charge accordingly though, usually about $100 for full detail for an average sized vehicle. There isn't anybody that details with this type of precision though. I'm thinking this might be a product of the environment though. I live in western kentucky and during our dry season we still have rain every couple of weeks, high humidity, and BUGS.

The bugs are the biggest problem. I have a friend that moved from Texas to here and he said the difference in bugs is unbelievable. Its like they get imbedded in the paint. Sometimes they're big enough that they actually chip the paint. Anybody have any tips for bug removal? During the fall it gets ridiculous.

And awesome thread so far, learned a lot.

Read about bug removal at this link -----> How to: Bugs

I don't have a bad bug issue where I'm at, but I wouldn't doubt that a big bug that has a hard shell could act like a rock and chip your paint. Bugs can "etch" your clear coat if left on and not removed as well.

There are a lot of products and techniques used to remove bugs, so if you're looking for more specifics let us know, but reading that link is a decent start.

**Almost all bug removers and all APCs will break down or eliminate the wax/sealant you have on your car, so you would need to reapply your wax or sealant of choice to those areas. (If you go this route for removing)

The best thing to prevent bug splatter as much as possible is having a LSP on your car (most commonly waxes and/or sealants). All most all the time the bugs will easily wipe off without any effort and sometimes they just deflect off and don't even stick. This is your best method of helping the prevention of bugs.

Removing them right away is the safest thing to do and I would definitely carry a waterless wash and a microfiber towel in my car to help wipe them off as soon as possible.

[scrace]

Alright I've read the whole thread I'm pretty amazed at the level of detailing that you guys go through. And by amazed I mean impressed. There are a couple of "Car detailers" around me that consider wash+wax+interior to be detailing. They charge accordingly though, usually about $100 for full detail for an average sized vehicle. There isn't anybody that details with this type of precision though. I'm thinking this might be a product of the environment though. I live in western kentucky and during our dry season we still have rain every couple of weeks, high humidity, and BUGS.

The bugs are the biggest problem. I have a friend that moved from Texas to here and he said the difference in bugs is unbelievable. Its like they get imbedded in the paint. Sometimes they're big enough that they actually chip the paint. Anybody have any tips for bug removal? During the fall it gets ridiculous.

And awesome thread so far, learned a lot.

3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner is my go to for tar, bugs, sap, paint overspray. It's not cheap but a little goes a long way.


3M Adhesive Remover melted this huge tar spot with little effort.

It's going to be important to have some layer of protection on your paint (wax/sealant or both) so when the bugs hit your car they are onto of the protection and not the paint. If left on their too long (time frame varies based on the bug, which idk lol) the guts could eat through the protection, and ruin your clear coat. Similar situation with bird poop.

[spirit750]

Here's a pic of my ride looking clean by my standards. The next time I clean it it will be a lot different after reading this thread though. One of those foam guns looks like a lot of fun. Have any suggestions for one? Size or brand? I don't need something special, but I've never liked buying "cheap" products.

[BigB02z28]

Here's a pic of my ride looking clean by my standards. The next time I clean it it will be a lot different after reading this thread though. One of those foam guns looks like a lot of fun. Have any suggestions for one? Size or brand? I don't need something special, but I've never liked buying "cheap" products.

Get the one for a pressure washer. The ones for just the water hose arent worth a damn imo. You can get a cheap electric pressure washer for $100 if you don't already own one. I bought the one from autogeek as I was already ordering over 1k worth if **** from them, but I think you can get the same exact one for like half the price on Amazon. do some googling, there's been a few threads on it (on detailing forums).

[BrianK.]

Just so you know the difference:

Foam Guns = used with garden hose
Foam Cannons= used with pressure washer

I had a pressure washer, but broke and haven't bought one since and gave my cannon to a buddy. I use the foam gun in a unorthodox manner, so at this point I don't want a foam cannon, but pressure washers completely have an advantage.

Here are Some foam guns ...like he mentioned above look on amazon and you will find a gilmour for cheaper; same is probably true for a cannon.

Edit: I have a quart sized one, but wish I bought a half gallon one.

[mhuynh]

I had to drive to BFE for work and got a crap load of love bugs on the front of the truck. What is the easiest way in removing all of this crap? I mean it's ALOT of guts.

[beau042]

I had to drive to BFE for work and got a crap load of love bugs on the front of the truck. What is the easiest way in removing all of this crap? I mean it's ALOT of guts.

If that's you in your avi I would prob just rub my abs up and down on the bugs, get that cheese grater action going, cot dayum, no homo

[Vayne]

Any tips for cleaning windshields streak free? Getting the inside clean is the hardest part, no matter what there's always streaks.

[BrianK.]

I had to drive to BFE for work and got a crap load of love bugs on the front of the truck. What is the easiest way in removing all of this crap? I mean it's ALOT of guts.

Check this link out.....http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...-bug-guts.html

After reading through it, let me know if you have any questions. You can also get bugs off your car using WD-40 or Adhesive removers, like Scarce posted a few posts up as well, but some people will always say, "I only like to use products made specifically for the task at hand." That's up to you.

Remember that almost anything you use to remove bugs, will break down or eliminate the wax/sealant you have on it.

Edit: I now use Detailer's Road Kill and this stuff is amazing. It doesn't strip your LSP either.

Any tips for cleaning windshields streak free? Getting the inside clean is the hardest part, no matter what there's always streaks.

http://www.ammonyc.com/detailing/ride-along-126/

Start at about the 10 minute mark for interior cleaning of the windshield, or watch the whole video...very informative.

This is the best way to do the glass and believe me, I would know because I'm crazy about clean glass.

I will always recommend using a quality glass cleaning towel and glass cleaner. I've used probably 8-10 automotive glass cleaners and also a few house hold glass cleaners and absolutely think Adam's Glass Cleaner is the best. Makes the glass so slick is actually unbelievable. (I don't like their glass towels though)

[scrace]

Cleaning auto glass can be a pain without the right tools and techniques. Often people set out with Windex and paper towels to clean their windows but end up with streaks and paper towel fibers left on the window. Most Windex formulations have ammonia in the mix, which dries out plastic and rubber, damaging window tint causing it to peel. Paper towels are typically multiple sheets of paper towels that are glued together, this glue gets onto your window and contributes to the streaks. These car window cleaning tips will have you cleaning glass like a pro and achieving streak free results without the headaches and hassle.

1. Always clean windows and mirrors last. This prevents your freshly cleaned windows from being soiled by over spray while cleaning other areas of the car.

2. Only clean glass that is cool to the touch, never hot. Pull the car into the shade or garage and wait until the glass is cool before cleaning. This will help prevent the glass cleaner from drying too quickly on the surface making window cleaning a pain.

3. Start with the windshield and rear window. They are always the most difficult due to the different angles and the most important in terms of visibility.

4. Use different strokes for the interior and exterior. For example, use vertical strokes on the interior side of the glass and horizontal strokes on the exterior side, or vice versa. This technique makes inspecting the glass for streaks a breeze as you can easily tell which side of the window needs to be cleaned again.

5. Use newspaper for an eco-friendly approach to cleaning glass. Use one piece of newspaper for each side window, and two pieces for the rear and windshield. Then buff each window with a clean piece of newspaper to end with a streak free, crystal clear window.

6. Start by rolling down the window half way to clean the top portion of the glass, which is inaccessible by the door when it’s rolled up. This is often over looked and makes the window look sloppy when neglected.

7. If you are diluting your glass cleaner always use distilled water. Distilled water does not contain additional gases, minerals or contaminants that tap or other types of water contain. It’s good practice to dilute all cleaners with distilled water because tap water is often considered “hard water” with a high mineral content. These minerals are often left behind on the surface once the cleaner or water has evaporated off the surface producing water spots.

8. Only use one type of towel for cleaning glass and never use it on any other surface. It’s helpful to place a small G on one corner of the towels with permanent marker to differentiate them from the rest. This helps not to introduce grease or other grim to the windows. It’s best to use a high quality waffle weave microfiber towel made specifically for cleaning glass to achieve the best streak free finish.

9. Clean the wiper blades. By removing the build up it will prevent burry areas and streaking on your windshield during use. 303 Products makes a Wiper Treatment, which lubricates the rubber and helps extend the life of your wiper blades.

10. Break large windows such as the windshield and rear window into two or more manageable chucks while cleaning. This prevents your towel from becoming overly soiled and causing streaks from not removing dirt but just spreading it around.


Blog post I wrote about cleaning windows.

[yourname2221]

Ok so this thread has me blown away. I knew true detailing cost alot and knew about some of the more expensive products and how long it takes. A buddy who I work with does it in his spare time but he is currently deployed and cant ask him for advice. So I am buying a brand new car first week of October. Speed3 in pearl white. Now I will be having knee surgery on Oct 7th so it will be put in the garage for a few months waiting. The dealership has told me they will 'detail' it before I pick it up. I am assuming it would be a half ass job. I want to have the car perfect for when I put it into the garage so that nothing will have time to cake on the surface. Should I tell the dealer to not even do it and that I will do it all myself or let them and still do it myself?

I'd like to pick up a bunch of starter stuff, I dont like the idea of a 'kit' because one brand doesn't usually make the best of everything at that price point. I dont want to have to get a PC, Id rather take the time and do it myself, hell my wife will help. I am confused on the process still so on the most basic level what are the things I should pick up. Can the MF clothes be reused by going through the wash or must be bought each time?

From my little grasp I would need:
MF clothes
Waterless Wash
Clay bar
Wax/Polish in one if possible?
Interior cleaner

Then something for the tires/rims, what would you use on these rims below.




Then that areospace 303 for the engine bay? Is that just a spray and wipe?

[scrace]

Ok so this thread has me blown away. I knew true detailing cost alot and knew about some of the more expensive products and how long it takes. A buddy who I work with does it in his spare time but he is currently deployed and cant ask him for advice. So I am buying a brand new car first week of October. Speed3 in pearl white. Now I will be having knee surgery on Oct 7th so it will be put in the garage for a few months waiting. The dealership has told me they will 'detail' it before I pick it up. I am assuming it would be a half ass job. I want to have the car perfect for when I put it into the garage so that nothing will have time to cake on the surface. Should I tell the dealer to not even do it and that I will do it all myself or let them and still do it myself?

I'd like to pick up a bunch of starter stuff, I dont like the idea of a 'kit' because one brand doesn't usually make the best of everything at that price point. I dont want to have to get a PC, Id rather take the time and do it myself, hell my wife will help. I am confused on the process still so on the most basic level what are the things I should pick up. Can the MF clothes be reused by going through the wash or must be bought each time?

From my little grasp I would need:
MF clothes
Waterless Wash
Clay bar
Wax/Polish in one if possible?
Interior cleaner

Then something for the tires/rims, what would you use on these rims below.




Then that areospace 303 for the engine bay? Is that just a spray and wipe?

Most dealerships either pay someone minimum wage to detail their cars or hire a "detailing" crew that comes by for a portion of the day.

I would opt. out of the dealer inflected swirl option, but I'm 99% sure your car will have swirls and scratches.

My advice for a new car is to wash, clay, polish and opti-coat it. If you don't want to use a permanent coating then sealant topped with wax. If I didn't have the detailing experience I do I would pay someone to do a new car detail...which should include what I described for the exterior and fabric guard for the interior (you could just do the interior yourself, it's really easy).

If you have the proper products and a DA buffer (like the PC 7424xp) then just pick up a opti-coat kit. There are tons of how-tos on how to do it and it's pretty simple. The only way the opti-coat is coming off the car is if you polish (or compound) it off.

Example: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showt...mp-Opti-Coated

I'm a fan of permanent coatings on new cars because you don't have to wax the car anymore just wash it. If you enjoy waxing/sealing the car then it's not for you. Permanent coatings are great for daily drivers. Make sure you also apply the product to your wheels if they have a clear coat (which 99% sure they will).

I wouldn't use 303 in the engine bay because it doesn't see the sun. I like aerosol spray trim protectants for the engine bay then use a clean brush or towel to spread evenly or pick up excess product.

[BrianK.]

About the dealer detailing: I am around dealers A LOT because of the GF. Almost everyone I have come across in the car sales industry knows nothing about detailing or how to properly do anything. The best thing to do is not let them touch it anymore and hopefully they never touched it. Sometimes cars; not sure if Mazdas do, come in full body wraps with clips...make sure if you're ordering a car that you tell them you will take the wraps off yourself. If its a new car that's already on the lot, then chances are they have already touched it, but don't let them touch it anymore. (ex. the new car preps at a BMW dealer are done by 3 kids that make $10 an hour...I have talked to them and they know nothing.)

I could go on and on about what they do to prep, bad things I have seen and what products they use...scary stuff (products being used vary from dealer to dealer even in the same auto-group because it depends on the dealer's budget).

Anyways...

As far as stuff you will need:

From your list...

Microfiber towels: Drying, utility, quick detail, glass (diff types of towels for each use)
Waterless wash: You can get this, but you might also want to get a rinse less wash too. (both aren't necessary, but are very useful)
Clay Bar: DEFINITELY GET THIS
Wax/polish in one if possible: They make AIO polishes that correct and protect, but if you're going to be doing your own car then make those steps separate.
Interior Cleaner: Yes, they make ones that clean and protect at the same time.

What else you'll need:
A good all purpose cleaner
Tire/rubber shine or protectant
Wheel cleaner
Glass cleaner
Wash mitt or pad
Buckets with grit guards
Detail sprays (not necessary, but very useful)
Various brushes for interior/wheels/exterior

Sonax FE is a very good for Mazda wheels, but if you maintain clean wheels, then you don't need anything other than car wash soap and water.

You can definitely reuses MF towels..you just have to properly take care of them. Check this link out, but remember there are a ton of MF wash products...http://www.autogeek.net/mi101.html

303 Aerospace from their description:
303 Aerospace Protectant protects:
•Rubber: tires, neoprene, latex, weatherstripping, wet suits, waders, etc.
•Vinyl: convertible tops (including clear vinyl windows), tonneau covers, bimini tops, car bras, covers, inflatable boats, marine seating, etc.
•Gelcoat fiberglass: boats, RVs, snowmobiles, jet skis.
•Plastics, acrylics, and polycarbonates: Lexan, headlights, windscreens, visors, windows.
•Carbon-fiber/resin composites: Fishing rods, "nude" bike frames.
•Finished leather: Upholstery, motorcycle leather, trim, tack, fine apparel.
•Pool & Patio: Plastic furniture (not fabric), pool inflatables, slides, covers.
•Sailcloth: Dacron® and monofilm.

Fantastic product and you can use it to keep your engine looking good.


There are probably some things I'm missing because its hard to think of everything right away, but if you have any other questions let us know.

Like mentioned above...you can use a semi-permanent coating, but then you'll want to make sure the paint is flawless underneath because the stuff is more expensive and is harder to get off if you don't like your results.

*Collinite 845 is IMO the best LSP for the price and is not semi permanent, but is awesome for daily drivers.

Also, you said you're still a little confused; so let me know what you're confused on and we will get you on the right track if it hasn't been answered yet.

[yourname2221]

Thanks guys, at airport currently so will begin researching all these this weekend. It still just seems like alot of different stuff ATM. The fabric guard and semi/perm coatings sound like a good idea to me. Can you go a little more into that, what are the pros and cons, I really dont want to buy a buffer so I may look into having the permanent coating done by someone and then what all i would need to do? Wash and clay bar from then on?

[scrace]

Thanks guys, at airport currently so will begin researching all these this weekend. It still just seems like alot of different stuff ATM. The fabric guard and semi/perm coatings sound like a good idea to me. Can you go a little more into that, what are the pros and cons, I really dont want to buy a buffer so I may look into having the permanent coating done by someone and then what all i would need to do? Wash and clay bar from then on?

There are tons of detailing products that pretty much do the same thing, most is marketing BS.

The price it costs to having a detail done is about the price it will cost in supplies and equipment to do it yourself. My one step polishing for cars starts at $265 and 2 step starts at $410. You can get all the equipment you need for $300 and then learn how to use it (it's not really hard to use a buffer and correct paint but there is a learning curve and you have to take your time).

If you PM your area I can find you a good detailer (I know a good many from other forums that will treat you right and do a great job) if you choose to go that route.

Another thing is that there is opti-coat and opti-seal (or pro, i forget) but the second product is a professional product which only optimum dealers can get and use. It's more durable and a little harder to apply.

[BigB02z28]

There are tons of detailing products that pretty much do the same thing, most is marketing BS.

The price it costs to having a detail done is about the price it will cost in supplies and equipment to do it yourself. My one step polishing for cars starts at $265 and 2 step starts at $410. You can get all the equipment you need for $300 and then learn how to use it (it's not really hard to use a buffer and correct paint but there is a learning curve and you have to take your time).

If you PM your area I can find you a good detailer (I know a good many from other forums that will treat you right and do a great job) if you choose to go that route.

Another thing is that there is opti-coat and opti-seal (or pro, i forget) but the second product is a professional product which only optimum dealers can get and use. It's more durable and a little harder to apply.

Our prices are very similar. My 1 step is $240, 2 step is $400, and thats a small 2 door coupe. Prices go up depending on size and condition of a car.

[swaptrex]

Has anyone tried the Chemical Guys "Chuy Bubble Gum" spray? (no homer)

[scrace]

Our prices are very similar. My 1 step is $240, 2 step is $400, and thats a small 2 door coupe. Prices go up depending on size and condition of a car.

Ya, I'm one of the more expensive detailers in my business that price is for all cars and I even knock off some $$$ for smart cars and mini type cars. I charge $50-60 more for each step up small truck/suv then to large.

Quality takes times which costs money. The higher prices allow me to work with clients who have the same values as I do. They want a clean car and it done properly, no corners cut and high end products.

I see guys on craigslist all the time charing $50 for a full detail and I don't even understand how they are making money...

[BrianK.]

Has anyone tried the Chemical Guys "Chuy Bubble Gum" spray? (no homer)

I haven't tried that specific scent but their 'Stripper Spray' smells good; only last 2 days max though.

Ya, I'm one of the more expensive detailers in my business that price is for all cars and I even knock off some $$$ for smart cars and mini type cars. I charge $50-60 more for each step up small truck/suv then to large.

Quality takes times which costs money. The higher prices allow me to work with clients who have the same values as I do. They want a clean car and it done properly, no corners cut and high end products.

I see guys on craigslist all the time charing $50 for a full detail and I don't even understand how they are making money...

I don't get this either. Would love to see what exactly their details consist of.

[yourname2221]

There are tons of detailing products that pretty much do the same thing, most is marketing BS.

The price it costs to having a detail done is about the price it will cost in supplies and equipment to do it yourself. My one step polishing for cars starts at $265 and 2 step starts at $410. You can get all the equipment you need for $300 and then learn how to use it (it's not really hard to use a buffer and correct paint but there is a learning curve and you have to take your time).

If you PM your area I can find you a good detailer (I know a good many from other forums that will treat you right and do a great job) if you choose to go that route.

Another thing is that there is opti-coat and opti-seal (or pro, i forget) but the second product is a professional product which only optimum dealers can get and use. It's more durable and a little harder to apply.

Thanks man my zip is 95687.

Can most detailers lay down this opti-coat? Im thinking the first time I will pay to have it done by someone and have that coat put on then from there just try to maintain it while I get accustomed to the skill. So after that coat is laid down would all i need is a wash product, clay bar and polish/wax AIO? If so throw what you recommend for each of those out, I obviously dont need the best possible stuff yet, but I dont mind paying for the quality.

[kessel81]

Hey Brain, quick question about permanent coating.

My uncle just picked up the delivery for his new car and I want to help him out with this. What does "claying" the car actually mean, is that really necessary?

He ran it through a car wash on the way home already. Can we just apply the opti-coat to the paint and wheels?

[BrianK.]

There are tons of detailing products that pretty much do the same thing, most is marketing BS.

The price it costs to having a detail done is about the price it will cost in supplies and equipment to do it yourself. My one step polishing for cars starts at $265 and 2 step starts at $410. You can get all the equipment you need for $300 and then learn how to use it (it's not really hard to use a buffer and correct paint but there is a learning curve and you have to take your time).

If you PM your area I can find you a good detailer (I know a good many from other forums that will treat you right and do a great job) if you choose to go that route.

Another thing is that there is opti-coat and opti-seal (or pro, i forget) but the second product is a professional product which only optimum dealers can get and use. It's more durable and a little harder to apply.

Opti-Coat 2.0 is permanent...is this what you're thinking of? Or maybe I haven't heard of pro.
Opti-Seal is a sealant

Thanks man my zip is 95687.

Can most detailers lay down this opti-coat? Im thinking the first time I will pay to have it done by someone and have that coat put on then from there just try to maintain it while I get accustomed to the skill. So after that coat is laid down would all i need is a wash product, clay bar and polish/wax AIO? If so throw what you recommend for each of those out, I obviously dont need the best possible stuff yet, but I dont mind paying for the quality.

The thing with Opti-coat is the paint should be perfect/defect free before its applied. I have seen people get it applied because they were uninformed and then they wanted to get the swirls out. This means that the coating needs to be abraded off first before you get to the clear coat.

Think of Opti-Coat as thicker layer of wax that is harder than a clear coat.

You wouldn't NEED a wax as this coating is thicker than wax and polishing Opti-Coat can be tricky, but can be done depending on how it was applied.

[BrianK.]

Hey Brain, quick question about permanent coating.

My uncle just picked up the delivery for his new car and I want to help him out with this. What does "claying" the car actually mean, is that really necessary?

He ran it through a car wash on the way home already. Can we just apply the opti-coat to the paint and wheels?

Opti-Coat is pretty easy to apply. You can apply it, but its preferred to be applied on a defect free surface.




My post about claying from page 3...Claying is stupid easy and is a MUST for anyone that likes detailing because the results are fantastic.

3. CLAYBAR (I could copy and paste the how to from somewhere else, but I’m trying to make this as newcomer friendly as possible and shy away from words that only experienced people may know.)


What a clay bar is doing
It’s removing contaminants from the surface that you always can’t see with your eyes. Using a clay bar will remove rail dust as well, which is a VERY COMMON issue on people’s cars. You will be shocked at how much a clay bar can ‘shine’ up your car.




How to choose a clay bar
It’s usually personal preference on size, grade or tackiness.
-Size…is the size of the bar measure in grams
-Grade…This is the measure of abrasiveness. The higher the grade the quicker the contaminants will be removed with less passes on the surface. (ultra-fine, fine, medium, heavy and maybe other levels)The bad part is that anything other than ultra-fine, fine and possibly medium will need a minor polishing afterwards as the heavier grades mar the surface.
-Tackiness…explains itself, but people say some are ‘stickier’ than others.


BAGGY TEST
Most likely you will have to clay, but to test it first, take a sandwich baggy and place your hand inside it. Then, lightly rub across your paint. You’ll see that your paint feels rough. Clay a small spot, then do the baggy test again on the spot you just clayed; You will be AMAZED at the quick difference.

*Quick notes before you watch the videos on how to clay:
-Take a clay bar and cut it up in pieces for easier use and plus it will last longer.
-Clay lubes are dependent on the user: Waterless washes, No rinses, Quick detailers, Car soap/water
-You can clay your wheels and glass as well
-If you drop the clay bar on the dirty ground: THROW IT OUT

HOW TO CLAY-It’s easier to watch a video rather than me try to explain..it is very easy!!






There are clay bar alternatives, but as a beginner you will want to stick to a traditional bar of clay. Even some professionals still consider the bar to be superior.

[yourname2221]

Opti-Coat 2.0 is permanent...is this what you're thinking of? Or maybe I haven't heard of pro.
Opti-Seal is a sealant



The thing with Opti-coat is the paint should be perfect/defect free before its applied. I have seen people get it applied because they were uninformed and then they wanted to get the swirls out. This means that the coating needs to be abraded off first before you get to the clear coat.

Think of Opti-Coat as thicker layer of wax that is harder than a clear coat.

You wouldn't NEED a wax as this coating is thicker than wax and polishing Opti-Coat can be tricky, but can be done depending on how it was applied.

I get what your saying about doing it after all the defects are taken out of the paint, makes perfect sense. What would be normal weekly cleaning then after this is done since your saying its not needed to wax or polishing. Just washing and clay? Whats your opinion on hardest colors to keep up with? Ill have one white and one black and the black is a pain in the ass.

[scrace]

I get what your saying about doing it after all the defects are taken out of the paint, makes perfect sense. What would be normal weekly cleaning then after this is done since your saying its not needed to wax or polishing. Just washing and clay? Whats your opinion on hardest colors to keep up with? Ill have one white and one black and the black is a pain in the ass.

All you'd ever want to know about opti-coat: http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-opti-coat.html

Just need to wash it. Waxing it will be a waste of time and product because it doesn't bond to the surface very well.

I wouldn't clay a permanent coating, you shouldn't need to as long as you wash it regularly and don't let contaminates sit on the car a long time. Plus contaminates have a hard time bonding to the coating.

If you don't go for opti-cost you really only need to clay your car once a year...maybe every 6 months depending on how much you drive and the area you live.