*Insider Auto-Repair Info Thread*

[WRXbrah]

Nice OP!

Here's a puzzler for ya that no one seems to be able to identify or fix.

This may be tougher since I believe it's related to aftermarket suspension...

Vehicle: 2007 toyota tundra SR5
Engine: 5.7L

Problem:

Occasionally, when turning a corner either right or left, whether coasting or through acceleration, I get a loud "pop" noise that I hear coming from the passenger rear of the truck. The popping sound has gone on for about 30k miles and no one can identify it. Not me, the dealer, or the off road shop I purchase parts from locally.

The truck came stock with the TRD package which included bilstein 5100 shocks. Though I've since replaced them with King coil overs.

I'm convinced that this is suspension related because it's intermittent and the noise has not affected the drivability at all. If it were rear diff related I'm convinced that after 30k miles it would have failed. Also, a full flush revealed no issues, no shavings, and clean diff oil.

Aftermarket that is relevant:

ProComp stage II 6" lift (blocked)
King coil overs
20" wheels/ 35" MTs

These wheels are HEAVY. Like I have a hard ass time removing and replacing a wheel myself. If this matters at all.

All leaf shackles are in tact. The lift was recently re-torqued, upper and lower control arms checked and tightened, bed bolts tightened, cool overs tightened.

Not sure what else to do but live with the annoying noise. Any thoughts?

If its a popping sound, its likely hub/wheel bearing related since it happens when you're loading them (turning).

[WRXbrah]

2002 Xterra
3.3L V6
Random Misfire code P300B
Knock Sensor code unknown P0325 I think

Vehicle shakes at idle sometimes and has rough acceleration. CEL blinks during that time. I know that's bad. It runs fine sometimes. Seems to do it more when you've driven it then get back in it and start it up. But the cel is still on when it runs good. It runs worse with the cel off. It goes off sometimes and it runs really bad then. I know that has to do with limp mode and timing being retarded. Replaced plugs/wires last year. It always starts fines and never actually dies. Running some fuel injector cleaner through it now (Lucas). I know this probably will not do anything, but it has about 130,000 miles on it.

Thinking maybe the distributor....

Its likely an injector but you need to check mode 6 data and throw a consult 3 on it to pinpoint which cylinder is misfiring when cel is flashing. Knock sensor code could be due to misfire or bad sensor/wiring. Need to backprobe sensor and check for A/C voltage between 0-1 volt.

My thoughts would be the iac

A vacuum leak will make it have a higher idle.

Correct, throttle body and iac need to be cleaned first for low idle. Then throw a scanner at it and check the steps for iac to rule it bad.

2005 chevy colorado, crew cab.

-Leaks water when it rains into passenger side carpet on the floor. Don't know where it comes from.

Repped, OP. nice thread.

Pull off your windshield cowl and empty the drain passages. Passages are plugged and leaking water into the hvac system through the fresh air port under the cowl. Its possible that door seals are leaking but very rare.

OP, I have a 98 Nissan 240SX.

I've had this "clicking" noise coming from under the car, it only comes on accel/decel as SOON as I step on or let off the gas. Sounds like its coming from the back of the car. Nothing ever came of it so I never really bothered with it, but I'm curious as to what it is. I'm assuming the drive shaft yoke is bad/worn?

Good thread also. Repped.

Tough one but clicking from front is usually dry axle boots and clicking from rear is broken parking brake shoes.

Got the code E0456 on my 2004 mitsu eclipse. It says it's a small evaporative emissions leak. Wat do?

Check and/or replace purge valve and change the gas cap first (cheap fixes). If it doesn't fix it, time to smoke the system while closing the vent valve. These codes can get complicated. Could be an actual leak or tank pressure sensor thinking there is a leak due to it going bad.

09 volvo s40 2.4i, 120k mi

when i let off the gas and the car is slowing down on its own, it will get "stuck" going from second to first gear or first to neutral (not sure which), like it will kind of hover between the two and the car will shudder a bit, then it drops into first or neutral and all is well. its the transition between gears that gets a little iffy, happens sometimes on sharp acceleration like when im merging onto the highway.

reps for any advice brahs. if i have to buy a new tranny im gonna cry

Get your trans module scanned with a VIDA. I bet it has soft codes.