Questions on deadlift platform build

[buddy0329]

I’ve purchased Two 4’x6’x0.75” stall mats.

Tomorrow I’m buying the plywood. I’m going to do this with all premium wood.

Questions:

Red oak vs Maple?

Would you do 1 sheet of plywood as a base or 2 sheets of plywood. Cost not an issue. If I do 2 sheets I think I can do the handles between the two sheets so I can move it around. The deadlift section of my gym has about 6’11 ceiling height. I’m 5’11. This will be dedicated to deads only.

Top center piece: 4’ Wide or shorter? I’ve read of people doing 3’ and everything in between.

Wood conditioning, staining , urethane etc...what to use?

Any problems if I screw it together only and skip the glue? I would like to be able to disassemble it if necessary if we ever move; etc

[ChuckRose67]

I did 42" wide... I think 48" between the rubber is too much. The wood type on plywood just refers to the veneer I think so it doesn't matter beyond looks. Even if the core wood is different, I don't think it matters.

I like satin or semi gloss polyurethane, lots of coats, sanded with 220 between coats.

No opinion on skipping glue. Way stronger and more rigid with it though

[Sboarder1964]

Sounds like you've already done a good deal of research. A lot of what you're asking is up to your preference, so I'll only give you a perspective.

Width: Four foot is generally so you don't have to make cuts, and most racks are 4' wide if you choose to bolt it directly into the wood. Three foot is better for olympic lifts as it gives you a little more lee-way for drops so the plates don't hit and crack the wood. It also will allow shorter trap bars to fit. If you have the time/means, I'd recommend cutting it to 3'.

Base Layers: Most every build has two layers or more. For the handles, I've seen people nail straps between the layers, and also just screwing in some handles (see attachment). You'd need 1.5" of wood for the handles to fit, which happens to be two layers. Certainly skip the gluing, it's unnecessary and prevents disassembly.

Finish: Preference. Several bypass this step because polyurethane can be slick, others will use it to protect a decal or painted logo. Stain and color up to you.

[buddy0329]

I have done some research and my post is more or less asking about lessons learned from others.

I can get either maple or red oak 3x4” 4x8 sheets for about $50. I assume 2 sheets as a base is obviously stronger, just not sure if I would be over complicating it versus just using a single.

This will be d/l platform only as I have my rack in a different section of the basement gym.

I wouldnt mind finishing it but I don’t want it to be either sticky or slippery if I do!

[lsi1]

personally if it were me I would buy 1 premium sheet and 2 regular plywood not flakeboard as paying for a finished surface no one will ever see just bothers me. I'd cut my plywood at around 42 so if you ever mess with sumo you have good solid footing. I would screw it together with the strap handles that some guys do because you may need to pick it up or move it someday and 2 extra minutes during assembly will save you a headache later. Take the money you saved on the pretty plywood and go to titan or somewhere else and get the attachments for holding bands down to your deadlift platform.

https://www.titan.fitness/dlftbnd.html

[buddy0329]

Holy voc off-gassing Batman!

These things stink! My garage smells horrible. I have a bunch of other 1/2” mats in my basement that I bought from a gym equipment store 15 years ago and I don’t remember this smell. Same place only sells 3/8” mats now.

I bought these 3/4” mats from a feed store. They had them stored outside on a pallet. Does the off gassing ever stop? I’m half way considering getting the 3/8” mats and doubling up on them if they don’t stink like this.

[Domicron]

i'd try sitting them out in the sun...seems like that can help sometimes. for most people the smell goes away. or you can wrap them entirely in duct tape and that'll stop the smell

[matchsprint]

First of all, just use sheathing ply for the lower layers. And do use a piece of hardwood ply for the top center strip. If you get a hardwood for the top layer, the whole sheet will not only be hardwood but will also be made in more, thinner layers. It isn't the best to drop plates on because it tends to splinter and come apart more easily, and doesn't provide as much energy absorption as softwood sheathing ply.

For finish, it's up to you. I'd suggest painting it rather than a varnish, because a painted surface you can always coat over, while a polyurethane is hard to redcoat successfully and any damage to the wood itself is visible. The feel of bare hardwood is superior, but it also wears down. One alternative is to go bare and don't glue down the center hardwood channel so you can easily replace it. Another alternative is to get some remnants of full thickness tongue-and-groove oak flooring (not a laminate), and install solid oak to the underlying plywood. I usually do this and it gives you a lifelong surface and one that's absolutely bulletproof. You can sand it down if it gets too grimy. I applied a whiting to the oak which fills the grain with white; it gives a seaside flooring kind of finish but is durable and easily cleaned and repaired. I strongly recommend going this way rather than a sheet of hardwood ply for that middle strip.

As for attaching bands, use these:

http://www.gatelatchusa.com/cane_bolts.html

These are much superior and the bands can't pop out. Don't worry about handles, but with these, you can just make some heavy webbing loops and catch them in the cane bolts to lift or move the platform. It looks a lot more elegant.

[Bignick31985]

I just used 4 sheets of less expensive plywood crisscrossed and screwed for my base, then a piece of 3/4" premium wood for the middle of the platform. Left 24" on each side for stall mats and it's worked great.

For covering the platform portion I used Valspar Porch Paint with the sand granules in it for traction. So far so good.

[irongrandpa]

Not much to add to what others have posted already, but I would do 2 layers of sheeting grade 3/4" plywood, then a top layer of 3/4" stall mat on the edges and 3/4" hardwood in the middle. I like a 42" width for the middle even though 48" makes more efficient use of material. I would just use screws so disassembly is possible if you need to move it. Hardwood plywood or hardwood flooring makes a good looking and durable finish for the middle section. Semi gloss or gloss finishes are not only durable, but, they are not going to be slippery unless you're lifting in your socks. Before disagreeing with this statement, think about hardwood basketball courts, all I've ever seen are finished in a high gloss and players run, jump, stop and turn quickly and slipping isn't an issue.

[gym62richard]

Not much to add to what others have posted already, but I would do 2 layers of sheeting grade 3/4" plywood, then a top layer of 3/4" stall mat on the edges and 3/4" hardwood in the middle. I like a 42" width for the middle even though 48" makes more efficient use of material. I would just use screws so disassembly is possible if you need to move it. Hardwood plywood or hardwood flooring makes a good looking and durable finish for the middle section. Semi gloss or gloss finishes are not only durable, but, they are not going to be slippery unless you're lifting in your socks. Before disagreeing with this statement, think about hardwood basketball courts, all I've ever seen are finished in a high gloss and players run, jump, stop and turn quickly and slipping isn't an issue.

Great advice, I couldn't agree more. On spread.

[buddy0329]

I will be doing 2 base layers of plywood.

I think 36” center section is plenty for me since I don’t do sumo dead’s.

I think I’m going to return the 3/4” stall mats because the off gassing makes me nauseous. Local gym store store has 3/8” mats (which don’t smell) which I can stack two layers to duplicate the 3/4” height if the plywood. As long as I use deep enough screws and washers I assume this will still work?

Are any of the commercial options a better play at this point?

[THErunCMD]

stay with the thicker stall mats. it will go away. just have more patience. Really dont you only need one big one unless you're doing a giant platform? check out this post:

https://forum.bodybuilding.com/showt...hp?t=152748263

[Sboarder1964]

but, they are not going to be slippery unless you're lifting in your socks. Before disagreeing with this statement, think about hardwood basketball courts, all I've ever seen are finished in a high gloss and players run, jump, stop and turn quickly and slipping isn't an issue.

Seeing it is one thing, but once you play on a court in street shoes you'll understand how slick it is. There's a reason why break dancers love to practice on them. As far as lifting platforms, the main issue is keeping traction during a split jerk and possibly wide sumo DLs. Doesn't seem this is an issue with the OP though.

stay with the thicker stall mats. it will go away. just have more patience. Really dont you only need one big one unless you're doing a giant platform?

I don't think he said whether he's doing a 4x8 or 8x8 yet! I wouldn't call 8x8 "giant" as it seems to be a norm with a lot of people (and some go for 12x8). But for an 8x8 you need two mats regardless.

[irongrandpa]

Seeing it is one thing, but once you play on a court in street shoes you'll understand how slick it is. There's a reason why break dancers love to practice on them. As far as lifting platforms, the main issue is keeping traction during a split jerk and possibly wide sumo DLs. Doesn't seem this is an issue with the OP though

I never played basketball in street shoes, nor do I lift in them.

[buddy0329]

I would post pics of the build but my post count isn't high enough.

The build went pretty uneventful.

2 layers of of sanded plywood 4x8 base screwed together.

In between the sandwiched layers of plywood, I took a singular length of ratcheting/tie down strap rated for 1000lbs and nailed it down on the first layer of plywood in an oval racetrack shape. After screwing the second layer of the platform onto the first, the strap gave me a nice wide carry handle on each end of the platform should I need to move it around my basement.

1 center top layer of finished plywood 3'x4'

Two stacked layers of 3/8" inch rubber mat on each side of the platform. I sourced these from the fitness store. They fit perfectly, they don't smell, they were easy to handle since they were lighter and more flexible, once screwed down into the plywood they are rock solid, and I couldn't be any happier.

The original 3/4" mats that I sourced yesterday from a local feed store were returned considering that they smelled like they came from a toxic waste dump. They were not going to get better anytime soon, they had already been stored in an outside area on a pallet at the feed store that looked like it had been there for weeks/months.

I screwed everything together using an impact driver and the unit is very solid. I stained the center section with two coats of a lighter maple colored stain. I'll probably hit it again tomorrow before considering whether or not to apply some poly as well.

[pbk3jg0]

I just read about this idea from the internet, but apparently you can install 2-4" thick playground tiles (ballistic tiles) to reduce noise significantly.

[bisonp]

I thought the same thing about the smell of my mats. They were horrible when I brought them home, which was odd since they didn't smell that bad in the store. But some Simple Green and a week in the sun took the smell down a lot. 2 months later they are in my basement and they still smell a bit but not bad. Keep in mind when they are stacked they aren't completely airing out. I also think they outgas when they flex while you are moving them. But I think the toxicity could be a valid concern.

[buddy0329]

I thought the same thing about the smell of my mats. They were horrible when I brought them home, which was odd since they didn't smell that bad in the store. But some Simple Green and a week in the sun took the smell down a lot. 2 months later they are in my basement and they still smell a bit but not bad. Keep in mind when they are stacked they aren't completely airing out. I also think they outgas when they flex while you are moving them. But I think the toxicity could be a valid concern.

The constant off-gassing was a real concern. I am definitely not a sensitive person to these kind of things and yet they gave me a real headache. Same thing yesterday when my father and I loaded them in the car and drove them back to the feed store; we both felt so much better to get rid of them. There's no way I wanted them in my home with young kids even if the detectable smell lessened over time.

[buddy0329]

With the platform complete I started thinking about a deadlift jack. Rogue lists theirs as being is 42" long (I'm calling that width). Any reason to be concerned with the platform's hardwood center only being 36" wide?

I never used a jack before and though it would be helpful to use on warmup sets, etc

[congore]

I have the 3/4" thick, 4'x6' horse stall mats, from Tractor Supply Company in my basement for over 4-years. First few days laid out in basement was brutal, but after a month laying flat on the foundation there was no smell (kept door open to air out during first month). Great mats and I've pulled over 400# off them with no plywood underneath. I control my dead lifts when they come down, but am not gentle by any means.

[THErunCMD]

With the platform complete I started thinking about a deadlift jack. Rogue lists theirs as being is 42" long (I'm calling that width). Any reason to be concerned with the platform's hardwood center only being 36" wide?

I never used a jack before and though it would be helpful to use on warmup sets, etc

I prefer keeping the feet of my jack on the rubber.