Worked on my Furnace. Waking up to a home that is 40 degrees is not fun. Never had to even look inside a furnace before, so this was all new to me. Here is what I did:
1 - Removed Panels. Lights will blink an error code. Codes were on the back of the panel I took off.
2 - Install new filter
3 - took apart the exhaust piping to make sure there was no clogs. Back in college our landlord pulled out a squirrel that looked like a can.
4 - turn the breaker/power off to reset the system
5 - hit the reset button on the high limit switch (the one near the blower). If the system gets too hot, this will trigger and needs to be reset.
6 - test the limit switch (right above the burners) to see if it's stuck open with a multi-meter.
7 - Broke a breaker on accident, so had to go to an auto store pick up a 3 amp breaker.
If I would have changed my air filter sooner, there wouldn't of been an issue. My limit switch needs to be replaced, because it keeps getting stuck open, even when my furnace hasn't been running for a while.
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Thread: DIY home improvements ITT
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01-16-2017, 07:03 AM #3331
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01-16-2017, 07:05 AM #3332
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01-16-2017, 07:10 AM #3333
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01-17-2017, 10:36 AM #3334
Question about painting. For the baseboards, window sills, trim etc., is there any special process that's different from painting the walls? They're currently a typical high gloss white, and will be getting repainted with another high gloss paint, but it doesn't come as a paint/primer in one. So wondering if I need to lay down a primer first or if there's any other additional prep work that is necessary like sanding or anything.
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01-17-2017, 10:54 AM #3335
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Technically you're supposed to sand the gloss to matte then prime then paint (or a paint/primer combo).
If you don't do anything and paint it will probably stick okay but if it gets knicked with something hard like a chair leg etc it will probably take off the top layer easily.*PUREBLOOD CREW*
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01-17-2017, 11:04 AM #3336
Thanks for the tips. I got done painting the walls and didn't even think about it and got ready to start trim, but the paint looked like it was sort of pooling on top and showing every single bristle in the stroke. That's when it clicked that duh, the high gloss stuff is meant to repel chit, of course I shouldn't expect it to go on as easily. I'll take the time and do it right.
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01-17-2017, 11:14 AM #3337
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01-17-2017, 11:48 AM #3338
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01-17-2017, 12:09 PM #3339
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01-17-2017, 12:10 PM #3340
- Join Date: Aug 2009
- Location: Franklin, Indiana, United States
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01-17-2017, 12:17 PM #3341
This is true.
It basically looked like the paint was sitting on the surface, like you spilled something on a nonporous surface, rather than absorbing in and looking wet like when you paint the walls, if that makes sense. Plus you could see the brush strokes pretty clearly in it.Misc Firearms Crew
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01-17-2017, 12:27 PM #3342
For us northern brahs, I've been cleaning several of my customer's roofs off with snow. If anyone is looking for extra money and a good workout, most roofs take a couple of hours time, and i charge $40 an hour. I usually schedule 4 roof clearing jobs in a weekend. A quick and easy upsell ($25) is also clearing the sewer vents. Most of ours up here are completely ice covered. Clear the ice off the sewer pipe(s) and bring a couple of gallons of warm water up with you when you go to take the snow off, pour it down down the vent to clear any ice that has formed further down the pipe.
Quick note, I have no problem declining roof jobs where the pitch of the roof is at a ridiculous angle. Your life isn't worth $80. Be sure to secure the ladder to the gutter, or have a spotter down below.
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01-17-2017, 01:13 PM #3343
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01-24-2017, 08:13 AM #3344
I have a fluorescent light in my kitchen. It's about 5 years old at this point. I wasn't home, but the other day my gf said it simply went out at one point and wouldn't turn back on. It was during a giant wind storm, so checked all the breakers and none were tripped. Replaced the bulbs and still isn't coming back on. Am I correct in thinking that perhaps the ballast blew out and it's time to replace it?
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01-24-2017, 08:38 AM #3345
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01-24-2017, 08:49 AM #3346
Hmmm, I don't own a tester currently, but do you think it's likely a switch would just go out like that randomly? Entire house is 5 years old, not just the fixture, just to clear that part up.
Actually, that's been the plan all along. I wanted to replace it with some LED track lighting probably, but when I did I was planning on moving the fluorescent to the garage anyway, since it's just a single bulb fixture out there now. Unfortunately, I don't have the replacement light picked out yet, and not having light in the kitchen blows. lol. May wind up having to just pick something and deal with it.Misc Firearms Crew
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01-24-2017, 08:51 AM #3347
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01-24-2017, 10:23 AM #3348
Fuarkkk boyos need to replace furnace soon. Thing is 18 years old (prob close to 20 now). Gas bill was outrageous last month lol, and we keep it steady at 69-70 when we are home. Our house is 1200 sq ft and about 850-900 is heated.
Any thoughts on the combo units? electric AC/gas heat? Getting tired of using a window AC in the summer.Pittsburgh
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01-24-2017, 03:48 PM #3349
Nah, get what you want put in now.
Have you had it serviced or changed out the filter? What's your bill, insulated? Outside temp typically? 69-70 is the highest mine ever goes. Mines a bit chilly I suppose at 67-68, but you're kind of expected a high bill at 69-70 tbh. What do you turn it down to when you leave? I usually do 64-65. I also caulked around all the windows and sealed the doors up that I don't use, but it all helps.★★★ A State of Trance Crew ★★★
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01-24-2017, 03:54 PM #3350
Pretty much what I do for a living. Let me know if you need some help
The problem with going from heating only to heating and cooling is it requires a lot more air to cool and your ductwork might night be large enough. But if it is, I would do it. AC adds a lot of value to your house. But you're going to need a 220v circuit for your condensing unit and a way to get refrigerant pipe from your furnace to it.
As far as the furnace goes, you're looking for it's efficiency rating. You want a 90+% furnace. It's a no brainer with the tax credits and how much you'll save on your gas bill over a standard 80%er
Where do you live? You might look into a mini-split heat pump system. We're too cold for them but if you don't get below zero it might be a good option.Toxic Masculinity
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01-24-2017, 04:18 PM #3351
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01-24-2017, 04:19 PM #3352
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01-24-2017, 08:07 PM #3353
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01-24-2017, 10:22 PM #3354
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01-25-2017, 06:47 AM #3355
IT was serviced 2 years ago when we moved in, and i change the filter every year (around december). Our bill was $257 lmao, it is insulated but i think alot of the cool air comes from the mudroom extension in the front of the house off of the living room. I think its poorly insulated. The basement is right below the living room as well and the windows are older and leaked. I filled them in with foam until I finish a few projects and can switch to block windows. I'm in the process of semi "finishing" the basement (no drywall just keeping the concrete walls) and when i do the ceiling im thinking about stuffing it with some insulation. Usually around 60-65 when we leave. I weather stripped the front door and caulked/foamed the new side window in the mudroon. Although we have one of those big 127 inch wide windows out front and it is old as hell and leaked so I temporarily filled every crack with foam and it helped alot. Prob gonna build a front porch and make it double doors when the funds allow.
I definitely will need help brah, thanks. Any recommended brands? I live in pittsburgh and we occasionally get below zero but not too often or over extended periods of times. A family friend is gonna give us a free quote so ill come back here with other questions.Pittsburgh
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01-25-2017, 06:54 AM #3356
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01-25-2017, 06:55 AM #3357
How hot does Pittsburgh get in the summer? I'll assume about our climate.
1,000 sq ft @ min .7 cfm/sq ft = 700 cfm. 400 cfm/ton ~ 2 tons of cooling. They'll more than likely undersize your cooling to save some cash but I'd put in a 2 ton condensing unit and coil. At 800 cfm your duct main needs to be roughly a 14"x14" to handle the airflow.
Just to give you an idea on price, here were my costs directly from a supplier when i bought mine.
80mbh, 95% two stage furnance - $791
Cooling coil - $333
Condensing unit 13 SEER - $1,056
These were for a 4 ton system, 1,600 cfm unit so your equipment costs should be even less. They'll rape you hard on labor and really it's not all that difficult to install if all the ductwork is in place. But a lot of contractors won't sell you the equipment unless they install it.Last edited by gixxer0.6g; 01-25-2017 at 07:00 AM.
Toxic Masculinity
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01-25-2017, 07:04 AM #3358
- Join Date: Aug 2009
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01-25-2017, 07:04 AM #3359
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01-25-2017, 08:28 AM #3360
- Join Date: Sep 2010
- Location: Portland, Oregon, United States
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contact your loan servicer (email or call) and ask what the options are to have your PMI removed.
Often times they will tell you that you will need to have been paying on the loan for 2 years prior to them reviewing your case but as you can see I got extremely lucky and had mine knocked off in 6 months. It's worth a shot.
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