My recent builds

[Mech6]

Do you think these are going to be a more popular item or just things a few of us weirdos want?

Well, if I didn't have a monolift (with "inside" hooks), I'd want a pair. Because my hands are pretty wide when I squat.
The original request was for a Duffalo bar, so opposite problem (needs to offset out, I need to offset in). Obviously same hooks can be used for both situations (swap left and right).
I imagine this would help tall people.
That's about it. I guess it'll depend on price point. I can't post here, but there about 50% more than my usual j-cups.
Also, these have holes for locking pins, but I really don't think they're needed. We'll see once they're put to use.

[Synthetickiller]

Well, if I didn't have a monolift (with "inside" hooks), I'd want a pair. Because my hands are pretty wide when I squat.
The original request was for a Duffalo bar, so opposite problem (needs to offset out, I need to offset in). Obviously same hooks can be used for both situations (swap left and right).
I imagine this would help tall people.
That's about it. I guess it'll depend on price point. I can't post here, but there about 50% more than my usual j-cups.
Also, these have holes for locking pins, but I really don't think they're needed. We'll see once they're put to use.

That's a funny thing. I need it for that Iron Wolfe bar & now the Duffalo as well.
Strangely, I'm hoovering just above manlet height (5'9") and my wingspan is about 5'8", yet I I have issues w/ the hands hitting the j-cups. I must have a crazy set up or something. I'm always grabbing outside of the rings.

If the j-cups are not for a drop in, I think the locking pins will help. The duffalo makes the j-cups turn out when warming up w/ the bar. Once there's enough weight, it doesn't flip. It just makes warm ups annoying & you have to be carefully how you rack the bar & where it's placed on the cup. A 3x3 cup might work better, but this happens on my 2.25x2.25 (I swear to god everything with this rack a SNAFU), so I'd assume the 2" would be difficult for this bar, unless it's staggered, like the one you are making. The duffalo is a great bar to use, but a nightmare for j-cups. No one part of the bar is flat. It'll always be on an angle where it makes contact w/ the j-cup.

[Mech6]

I must have a crazy set up or something. I'm always grabbing outside of the rings.

I'm the same. I am taller, but I've always had my hands out near the flanges on a regular bar (not so much on a squat bar). And it's not shoulder flexibilty, as I have no problem holding it in tight. It just get a better shelf out wide for some reason. Panora was the same way years ago. Not huge (although much bigger than me), but hands waaaaay out. Almost to the flanges on an 8' squat bar.

If the j-cups are not for a drop in, I think the locking pins will help. The duffalo makes the j-cups turn out when warming up w/ the bar. Once there's enough weight, it doesn't flip. It just makes warm ups annoying & you have to be carefully how you rack the bar & where it's placed on the cup. A 3x3 cup might work better, but this happens on my 2.25x2.25 (I swear to god everything with this rack a SNAFU), so I'd assume the 2" would be difficult for this bar, unless it's staggered, like the one you are making. The duffalo is a great bar to use, but a nightmare for j-cups. No one part of the bar is flat. It'll always be on an angle where it makes contact w/ the j-cup.

I have photos of it being flat near the flanges. Which is where the cups would be if offset outside the rack (rogue rack, 49" outside width).

[Mech6]

Alright, so I'm just going to leave this here, go take a shower and watch my PM explode. Before that happens, I DON'T make straps. These were taken from the old rogue units. I only made the brackets. This is the 2nd set. Dragon360 has the other and although there's an angle difference between both versions, they both seem to work fine. Maybe the owners will chime in.

[TASOSCHATZ]

No off switch on genius. Teaser

Any progress with this?

[Mech6]

Any progress with this?

They're powder coated... lol.
Yes, should be welding the rest up soon.

[skrebs01]

That makes sense.


Honestly, depending on price difference for something like that I may just end up getting two of the regular kind.

The ones you make definitely look better than some of the others, they're much more aesthetically pleasing.

Thanks again.

I trained on a pair of home made uprights for a while that were made out of a pair of jacks. The j hooks were welded on top of a pair of jacks. There were two threaded bolts welded near the bottom of the jacks that lined up with the holes in the racks.

Welding monolift attachments onto something like this may work

[thejosef]

Alright, so I'm just going to leave this here, go take a shower and watch my PM explode. Before that happens, I DON'T make straps. These were taken from the old rogue units. I only made the brackets. This is the 2nd set. Dragon360 has the other and although there's an angle difference between both versions, they both seem to work fine. Maybe the owners will chime in.

Thanks for posting. These quick adjust brackets for my strap safeties are legit. They gave me more clearance for my bumper plates and they are just SO QUICK & EASY to adjust. I often lift with 2 other people, so quick adjustments are paramount. These are available elsewhere for 1" pins, but I think Mech is the only one that makes them for the very common 5/8" pins. They don't have the groove in the pin like the 1" version, but here's a secret: you don't need the groove. Mine (Mech's prototype, I think) do angle slightly when weight is on the straps, but it does not affect function/safety at all. There is still plenty pin left in the hole, and the weight on the straps makes them impossible to pull out of the hole anyway. This is already one of my favorite upgrades for my rack.

[TunaGill]

The duffalo is a great bar to use, but a nightmare for j-cups. No one part of the bar is flat. It'll always be on an angle where it makes contact w/ the j-cup.

I plan on getting a duffalo soon (hopefully).

I have mech's monolift.

Given the pins in the monolift, it shouldn't make it move I wouldn't think?

[Mech6]

I plan on getting a duffalo soon (hopefully).

I have mech's monolift.

Given the pins in the monolift, it shouldn't make it move I wouldn't think?

Monolift won't move if you have the locking pins in.

[Synthetickiller]

I plan on getting a duffalo soon (hopefully).

I have mech's monolift.

Given the pins in the monolift, it shouldn't make it move I wouldn't think?

Monolift won't move if you have the locking pins in.

Each is 30 lb, right?
I doubt the empty bar would move them, unlike normal j-cups. The locking pins would probably just be insurance.

[Mech6]

New colour.

[Mech6]

More

[dieselmike]

Commando green?

[Mech6]

Commando green?

Flash makes it seem that way, but it's actually a fairly dark gray. Although it is on the green side of grays, if that makes sense.
RGB 76, 74, 68.

[Synthetickiller]

Mech, do you feel happy w/ the design outcome of the offset j-cups?

[jormone]

The offset jhooks look interesting, but I wonder if you thought they could be generalized to being just "offsetters" so the user could stick their existing jhooks/sandwich style into it? (for the same hole size/tube size I guess) Would that work?

[dieselmike]

The offset jhooks look interesting, but I wonder if you thought they could be generalized to being just "offsetters" so the user could stick their existing jhooks/sandwich style into it? (for the same hole size/tube size I guess) Would that work?

Not sure I understand the question. But I do know not to question the master.

[Mech6]

Mech, do you feel happy w/ the design outcome of the offset j-cups?

Happy? lol, they're powder coated, assembled and packed. I'm happy.
I'm not the one needing/using them, so we'll wait for his thoughts, but I don't see why they wouldn't work fine as intended.

[Mech6]

The offset jhooks look interesting, but I wonder if you thought they could be generalized to being just "offsetters" so the user could stick their existing jhooks/sandwich style into it? (for the same hole size/tube size I guess) Would that work?

Ya, you could. But it would basically be an offset tube with holes. And then you add that extra element of play into it (between old hooks and tube). So they're will be more movement than this version. And having seen some j-hooks from other manucfacturers, some have quite a bit of play. And you're stuck with the original j-hook width. These are 2" wide, going on a 3" upright. To create a bit more wiggle room.
They would be cheaper since there would be less uhmw/threads on my side.

[Mech6]

Not sure I understand the question. But I do know not to question the master.

Yet you went against me on the safeties .

[Mech6]

Last ones

[jtaliani]

Man, that is one heck of an accessory haul!

[Synthetickiller]

Happy? lol, they're powder coated, assembled and packed. I'm happy.
I'm not the one needing/using them, so we'll wait for his thoughts, but I don't see why they wouldn't work fine as intended.

In not so many words, I was curious if there were any changes you wanted to implement, but had already cut & welded everything at that point.
2" wide j-cups make sense. I'd venture that 3" would hit the collars of most bars, even the Iron Wolfe.

[dieselmike]

Yet you went against me on the safeties .

Good point. This is true. Bad Diesel! But they will still be Mechtacular.

[mrcheeze36]

Man, that is one heck of an accessory haul!

I can't wait 😁

[mrcheeze36]

In not so many words, I was curious if there were any changes you wanted to implement, but had already cut & welded everything at that point.
2" wide j-cups make sense. I'd venture that 3" would hit the collars of most bars, even the Iron Wolfe.

I had these made to be used with my Duffalo bar. There's 3.25" of straight bar next the collars before it starts to bow. That straight portion starts right outside my uprights (3x3) so I decided on 2" wide cups to give me 1.25" of wiggle room when re-racking the bar.

These j-cups also place the bar an inch or so away from the upright so some finger/grip clearance is there too.

The bonus is that they also solve my clearance problem with the CFF fat bar if I put them on the inside of the uprights.

[dieselmike]

I can't wait 😁

Aah. Cheese, those are for you. I'm digging that color big time. What is the base color of your rack? Or should I wait for the final pictures?

[mrcheeze36]

Aah. Cheese, those are for you. I'm digging that color big time. What is the base color of your rack? Or should I wait for the final pictures?

Thanks DM. I have a Rogue RM-6 so it's flat black. Was going to red but the wall directly behind the rack is red so I decided on the dark gray instead.

Here's my current setup. It'll look a lot different once it's Mechanized 😁

[gtbiker13]

Thanks DM. I have a Rogue RM-6 so it's flat black. Was going to red but the wall directly behind the rack is red so I decided on the dark gray instead.

Here's my current setup. It'll look a lot different once it's Mechanized ��

Wow love the setup! All the accessories look awesome, really love the attention to detail that Mech6 puts into his work and the UHMW on everything. And well for the army green... well I cant say it would be my first choice but still looking forward to see what it looks like once you have it all set up.