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    Smile climb the world

    Hi guys!! w elcome to my climbing log.

    I've strength trained somewhat consistently for the past 9 or 10 years. Did weightlifting in high school, PRs were like 124/82 @ 73. I used to post my lifts here (different account) and on GSF a long time ago! Did some basic compound lifts in college, just enough to maintain some strength. Got fat over covid, blew up to 195~ back in November 2020. I'm currently 155 at 12.4% bodyfat (DEXA scan I'll post if you guys are interested).

    I started bouldering in february of this year ! My current indoor gym PR is a V6 at my gym which I think has pretty difficult graders that model their problems around outdoor ones. My best outdoor boulder is V5. However, I am constantly humbled by lower rated boulders that kick my ass, and I'm learning to divorce myself from the grades and focus more on what I learn from the climb. I sport climb indoors 5.10-5.12. im learning to lead this month and am super excited to lead outside!

    Between bouldering and sport climbing, I also lift twice a week. I was originally running a 6 day a week version of 5/3/1, which I condensed into 4 days and eventually 2. I also incorporated lifts and exercises that I contend are important for joints/tendons. I have also recently begun to fingerboard. I dicked around a bit on the board a few times prior but will now be tracking my progress closely on it. It's the main reason why I'm starting this log.

    If you don't know anything about climbing but are interested please ask any questions !! I will do my best to answer anything i can And if you are into climbing that is awesome lets chat!!

    Let's kick it off with a cool dyno from early July and a problem I failed but learned a lot from !!



    (here's a better angle of the lower portion)

    i(dot)imgur(dot)com/rDW0Sbb.png


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    Thumbs up

    3 September 2022

    I got my first V6 at my home gym!! It was rated V6- with an orange tag. My gym has this system of applying three metrics to estimate grade difficult: The v-scale, tag color, and triangles. Green tags are typically V2-V4, yellow tags V4-V6, orange tags V7-8, and red/pink tags V9-V10+. The # of triangles also indicates relative difficulty, more triangles more difficult for that given grade.



    This slab problem was super scary. If my right foot slips, there's a giant yellow rock beneath that could bang against my foot. Took about ten tries before I was able to load my weight into my right foot. This problem taught me to trust my feet, even if the foothold is "bad" (I need to recondition myself into believing that type of foothold is good, and be confident placing my weight on it).

    I recently got covid and felt super weak a few sessions ago. was NOT expecting to PR. a good reminder that climbing is hugely mental and that I need to have confidence in all of my climbs in order to reproducibly send.

    4 September 2022

    Hangboarding!

    I've started running 7-53 by Horst on the fingerboard for sets of three repetitions.
    I hang on a fingerboard for 7 seconds, rest for 53, and repeat that two more times for a total of three hangs per set. Sometimes I hang a little longer than 7 seconds, sometimes I rest a little longer than 53. There are apps that are more helpful than the apple stopwatch which I may look into using.

    7-53: 3x3, 16 mm edge, half crimp.

    I then worked on my three finger drag (3FD).

    1x3 7-53, 20 mm edge, 3FD.
    1x3 7-53, 20 mm edge, 3FD, FAILED on last rep, only hung four seconds.
    1x3 7-53, 22 mm edge, 3FD.


    And I finished off with some max hangs!

    12 mm, half crimp: 12 seconds.
    20 mm, half crimp: 21 seconds.


    Damn, my three finger drag is weak! I need start training that and back two more. I think I could've run 7-53 with 12 mm edge, but I wanted to slowly introduce the hanging volume into my program since tendons are sensitive and I'm already doing a lot of climbing and cross training. I think I'll hang on Wednesday again, and I'll try this protocol on the 14 mm edge or for more reps!
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    5 September 2022

    Strength training!

    Bench 3x5
    RDL 2x8
    Plate flies 3x5: 20
    Reverse squats 3x8: 110
    Cable pancakes 3x4: 110
    Weighted pullups 3x4: + 35 lbs
    Pinch block repeaters 2x7x6: 25 lbs
    Reverse wrist curls: 3x20

    The bench and RDLs are pretty fundamental, squats and pancakes are exercises Ben Patrick has done videos on for hip flexors and are great at preventing joint pain, and the pullups/pinch block repeaters/curls are all climbing specific. I have a commercial gym and a climbing gym; my commercial gym has a hamstring curl machine and my climbing gym has a bench for nordic curls. That's another movement I'd like to incorporate in training since it mimics the heel hook, but my legs are usually so trashed from climbing that I shy away from training them further.

    Speaking of heel hooks, here's a dynamic heel hook catch from a boulder in rome from earlier this summer!

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    Smile

    6 September 2022

    Climbed today!! woohoo!!!!

    I did a 5.8 while mock leading - I was belayed top rope with a lead rope tied to my heart loop so I could practice clipping in. I then did a 5.10-, a 5.10, struggled on a 5.12 with an opening sequence that felt like a V4 , and then went up a pretty slopey 5.9 which I think was more like 5.10. Thats about 200 feet of top roping!

    I then bouldered for two hours. I've been trying a V7! The sequence is super difficult and I hope to post a video of me sending it soon

    But until then, here's a fun problem I almost got in Chicago!

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    7 Sep 2022

    I planned on hangboarding today, but my fingers are still sensitive from yesterday. I need to take a break today! I am going to foam roll the legs and and arms and use my VR set - thing gives a surprisingly decent pump!

    Here's an indoor 5.11+ from earlier this summer!

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    Talking

    8 Sep 2022

    Oh MAN, I had a great session !! I got this ungraded orange tag problem!! Video incoming the next few days when I do it again Orange tags are in the range of V6-V8, but I'd be lying and inflaing the grade if I thought it was an 8. It was like a V6- I think, just a one move crux. But it looked cool and i am happy i did it !!

    Bouldered around 4.5 hours, by the time it was the end I couldn't even hold a start. But there's a V7- that's pretty tough but there's a way to cheat through the problem. That "way" is probably V5~, but the fact that if you break the beta the difficulty drops so much just helps to remind me that grades don't really matter. It's more about finding difficult problems that piss you off, no matter what the grade is, and learning movement patterns that transfer to other problems. If I want to become the best climber I can be, I shouldn't care what the grade is. I should just look for problems I am not good at, and do those, and learn the movement patterns. What a fun game this is lol

    I'll post a climbing vid soon; here's one of my favorite songs

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    Exclamation

    9 September 2022

    I woke up at around 2 AM with what felt like a sore hamstring. I know the feeling - it's overuse. I had poor sleep the night before yesterday's climbing session, and that combined with going to exhaustion = overuse. Taped the hammy so I could walk and did upper body strength training only.

    OHP: 3x8
    Plate flies 2x8, 1x5: 20 lbs
    Weighted pullups 2x5: + 35 lbs, 1x3 + 1x2: + 35 lbs. I also did some accessory work mimicing the campusing motion of pullups.
    Pinch block repeaters 2x7x6: 27.5 lbs
    Reverse wrist curls: 2x15 @ 15 lbs, 2 x 25 @ 12 lbs.

    On Tuesday, I practiced the motion of a front lever which I still can't fully perform yet. I had abdominal DOMS through Friday and couldn't even try any ab work today. I will attempt front levers again soon.

    For diet, I eat roughly 2300~ calories once in the morning. Once every 5-8 days, I will eat 4000 calories. I suspect my maintenance is somewhere around 2600-2700. I like the depletion/refeeding style of diet and believe it has significantly improved my body composition (I have DEXA scans to support that claim? kind of), but might try either shifting more calories in daily or eating less processed foods on my refeed day.

    10 September 2022

    The hamstring pain is 15-20% of what it was yesterday. Definitely was overuse. As much as I'd like to go train lower body resistance today, I should back off and do active recovery with foam rolling and a lax ball. I could maybe throw in some tib raises but it's best to just save energy for my lead class tomorrow. I'm going to read for a bit, buy a necklace, head to work and then come home and roll/stretch for as long as I can.

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    Lightbulb

    11 September 2022

    Took a lead climbing class today, first of 2. Practiced clipping, did two lead climbs and took a lead fall. Need to work on pushing my heels into the wall when I fall and finding better rest positions. I am gripping jugs since we practice lead on very easy routes (5.7-5.9). I must not forget Rule #1 of climbing: grab every hold as lightly as you can and attempt to transduce as much force through the feet as possible. Rule #0, like all other sports, is never get injured.

    I then had a quick boulder session but my right hamstring is still a bit sore. Reverse squats and stretching during strength training tomorrow should clear it up.

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    Red face

    12 September 2022

    Bench 3x6
    RDL 2x8
    Plate flies 2x8: 20
    Reverse squats 3x8: 110
    Cable pancakes 3x4: 110
    Weighted pullups 3x5: + 35 lbs
    Weighted chins 1x8: + 25 lbs
    Pinch block repeaters 2x7x6: 30 lbs
    Reverse wrist curls: 2x20
    Cable flies 3x12: 65 lbs

    My right glute is still a bit sore. There's a really severe heel hook on another 7 in the gym which I want to try. Might hit the glute with a lax ball tonight if I get my work tonight; might also go for a PM hangboard session since I missed yesterday.

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    Cool

    12 September 2022, PM session.

    7-53: 3x3, 14 mm edge, half crimp.

    My 3x3 3FD was a mess. I was switching back and forth between 20, 22, and 24 mm edges, and going for the open hand when I didn't feel secure enough. We need to start at 24 and do 3x3 repeaters then work our way down the board

    Max hangs:

    20 mm, half crimp: 32.5 seconds. +11.5 seconds from last week
    12 mm, half crimp: 13 seconds. +1 seconds from last week

    My plan is to hangboard once a week ish, and maybe throw 5 pounds on my half crimp at 14 mm. Yeah, I like that idea. Let's just starting strength the fingerboard lmao (2.5 pounds is a lot smarter but im a dumbass (maybe we start with +5 then go into 2.5 then microplate it))

    Last edited by JVJVJV; 09-13-2022 at 03:08 AM. Reason: youtube link
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    Talking

    13 Sep 22

    Mock lead on some 50 feet walls. Hit a 5.8+, failed a 5.10, got a 5.10, failed near the top of a 5.9 (exhaustion), a 5.10-, and then sprinted up a 5.7. Lead is hard, cool, and fun. A friend of mine then showed me a V3+ which I flashed. Cool. We rest tomorrow, climb Thursday at a different gym, maybe climb Friday and definitely Saturday.

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    Thumbs up

    14 Sep 22

    My knees felt a bit wobbly, so I did some deep lunges at light weight for a few reps. I then practiced lead clipping for about 30-40 min. My next lead class is this Sunday; I really want to get lead certified as soon as possible, lead hella indoor routes, then go lead and top rope outside.

    Excited to climb in Boston tomorrow.

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    Red face

    15 Sep 22

    Bouldered in Boston today. Was fasted for a bit too long and didn't have the best session.

    Also I'm in a hotel with no lights only the TV on to keep the room darker and Big Brother is on. show is one giant ?XD

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    Smile

    16 Sep 22

    Hotel workout.

    3x8 Chest Press
    3x8 Weight neutral chins + 25 lbs. It was the absolute worst pullup belt I've ever used in my life, and a piece of leather got stuck. I think I was supposed to lock it with a carabiner which I guess I should've known because this is a climbing log LOL... um.... yeah. Got a decent forearm workout trying to untangle the belt, but then quietly left the gym after being told it was fine. i then got scared and left the gym

    Walked 8 miles around the city. Eating hella calories tonight with some pals, hopefully I don't die after 5 seconds while top roping tomorrow lol

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    Angry

    17 Sep 22

    Central rock gym sucks fat monkey balls. Was with someone who didnt know how to belay, did some 5.10-11s on autobelays and got 10 feet from topping a 5.12. Decent boulders, meh gym.

    Lead class tomorrow. I'll try to sleep plenty, rest the fingers and then get some good hangboarding in.


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    Exclamation

    18 Sep 22

    Took lead class, did a live lead belay, catch, and fall, then top roped a bit. Got scraped by a boulder, and made the mistake of eating corn meal trader joes cheetos ..... thats ok we learned not to do that again ! i seriously need to permanently scrape some things from my diet. i do like processed foods 1x every 7-8 days... might try to decrease that to 1x per 2-3 weeks or month, or just go cold turkey. might not hangboard till wednesday.

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    Thumbs up

    12 September 2022

    Bench 3x5
    RDL 2x9
    Plate flies 3x8: 20
    Reverse squats 3x8: 110
    Cable pancakes 3x4: 110
    Weighted pullups 3x3: + 45 lbs
    Pinch block repeaters 2x7x6: 32.5 lbs
    Reverse wrist curls: 2x20
    Cable flies 3x8: 75 lbs

    I want to step load pullups from 3x3 -> 4x3 ... 3x4... 3x5-5x5 range and then add 10-20 lbs. Also sprinkle in some chins because I can do high volume/higher intensity. I think that'll work better than microloading. My pinch form might be suboptimal, might lower weight to get better form.

    Surely I wait until Wednesday to hangboard !

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    Thumbs up

    19 September 2022, PM session.

    7-53: 3x3, 14 mm edge, half crimp +5 lbs

    My 3x3 3FD was a mess again. It went something like

    7-53 repeaters:
    24 mm, 3FD 1x2, then open grip.
    24 mm 1x3 open grip.
    24 mm 3FD 1x3.

    Max hangs:

    20 mm, open grip: 17.8 seconds
    12 mm, half crimp: 9.1 seconds. -3.9 seconds from last week

    Crimp was pretty tired from the extra weight. Also, my right knuckle protrudes outwards more than my left. I think I'm pulling with it more versus my left arm, and that's likely due to a flexibility imbalance in my left pec/shoulder/lat. Need to think about this before I go much heavier.

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    Smile

    20 Sep 21

    Bouldered in new shoes, can finally fit them without plastic bags lol. Projecting a crimpy V6. Hope to send soon and maybe climb outdoors this weekend! Also top roped a bit, but was too exhausted. Really need to spend today (21st) resting and active recovery. Will likely mock live lead tomorrow and maybe boulder a bit.

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    Post

    21 Sep 22

    Took a rest, nothing besides foam rolling.

    22 Sep 22

    AM: Mock lead and bouldered.

    PM: Bouldered a little more. Struggling on a crimpy project. Really want it in the next few sesh's.



    23 Sep 22

    OHP: 2x8
    Deep lunges: 2x5
    Plate flies 3x8: 20 lbs
    Reverse squats 3x8
    Cable pancakes 3x4
    Weighted pullups 3x4: + 45 lbs, chins 1x8: + 45 lbs.
    TRX pulling motions: 2x15, assisted

    Really liked the TRX bands... will incorporate this exercise more. Took a break from all that pinch and forearm training! Let's see how we can modulate and adjust the volume.
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    24 Sep 22

    I didn't do pinch training or forearm curls today, really just rested!! Felt good. Did use my VR set and that thing gives a decent workout with superhot + beat saber... dope

    25 Sep 22

    Only did about 4 top rope mock lead routes in 2 hours lol, spent a lot of time talking to other people. Did light bouldering as well. I think I'll go pretty hard tomorrow.

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    26 Sep 22

    Bench 3x7
    RDL 2x10
    Reverse squats, plate flies, cable pancakes, etc...

    Weighted pullups + 45 : 3x4, 1x3: + 45, weights chins +45 : 2x4

    Tibialis raises, TRX band foot drills.

    Poor diet this weekend. Need to be more mindful of what, when, and why I eat. Need to stop being lazy.

    27 Sep 22

    AM Session: Mock leading, light bouldering, hard top roping.

    PM Session: was originally going to hangboard, but there's a new comp wall in my gym. 30 min hangboard session turned into a 3 hour comp wall sesh on a coordination boulder. Stuck the crux, but was so sleep deprived and tired ( and i just suck lol) that i couldnt finish it that night. I will try to finish it tomorrow.

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