Guitar Megathread II: Unleash the picking fury!!!

[StackingPlates]

My 2 cents — digital is incredible for clean and high gain tones. Where the real thing has the edge is at low gain, "edge of breakup," etc, but getting great tones at low volume can be a challenge. I do most of my playing late at night and I don't want to piss off the neighbors. And loading down a tube amp is no free lunch since you're going to burn through power tubes much faster and that's $200 plus in local money for a matched quad set of EL34s. Unless you feel comfortable biasing the amp that's more money for a tech to do it.

What are your thoughts on using reactive load boxes such as the Fryette Power Station? From what I've seen, they appear to do a great job of lowering volume on high watt valve amps without adversely impacting tone.

[Dominik]

What are your thoughts on using reactive load boxes such as the Fryette Power Station? From what I've seen, they appear to do a great job of lowering volume on high watt valve amps without adversely impacting tone.

Probably the best way to do it. But like I said any attenuator or load device that allows you to push the amp harder at low volumes is going to burn through power tubes faster kind of like taking your car to the track vs. street driving burns through tires, brake pads, rotors, oil, etc.

You can definitely make a strong case for the benefits of digital. I was building a pedalboard a few years back when the Axe FX II XL+ was around $3K local money and my pedalboard ended up costing more than that and in the end I had one or two amp sounds. If I'd gone Fractal I'd have saved money and had hundreds of different sounds with all sorts of routing possibilities.

Now there's the TONEX for $400.

[StackingPlates]

Probably the best way to do it. But like I said any attenuator or load device that allows you to push the amp harder at low volumes is going to burn through power tubes faster kind of like taking your car to the track vs. street driving burns through tires, brake pads, rotors, oil, etc.

You can definitely make a strong case for the benefits of digital. I was building a pedalboard a few years back when the Axe FX II XL+ was around $3K local money and my pedalboard ended up costing more than that and in the end I had one or two amp sounds. If I'd gone Fractal I'd have saved money and had hundreds of different sounds with all sorts of routing possibilities.

Now there's the TONEX for $400.

Thanks for that. I was under the impression that what made the reactive load an attractive option was that it essentially emulates the speaker cabinet resistance. Basically taking the amp's signal output and converting it back to a line level signal for "attenuation" and thus the amp output transformer would be none the wiser.

[rollerball]

Probably the best way to do it. But like I said any attenuator or load device that allows you to push the amp harder at low volumes is going to burn through power tubes faster kind of like taking your car to the track vs. street driving burns through tires, brake pads, rotors, oil, etc.

You can definitely make a strong case for the benefits of digital. I was building a pedalboard a few years back when the Axe FX II XL+ was around $3K local money and my pedalboard ended up costing more than that and in the end I had one or two amp sounds. If I'd gone Fractal I'd have saved money and had hundreds of different sounds with all sorts of routing possibilities.

Now there's the TONEX for $400.

Pfft I be attenuating muh toobs all day long err day. Toobs are meant to be burned through.

[Dominik]

Pfft I be attenuating muh toobs all day long err day. Toobs are meant to be burned through.

Nothing wrong with that. It's there to be enjoyed. I only mentioned it because some people might forget there is an added cost to pushing an amp harder at low volume and cooking tubes much like gas, tires, oil, etc. with the car analogy, hence "no free lunch."

I like taking a modular approach to this stuff. I run a tube preamp (medium to higher gain) and a Bogner pedal (low gain) into Fender modeling (Walrus ACS1). I sum my stereo delay to mono and run mono out into a small cabinet at home. If I want stereo I can go stereo out into two cabinets a la Andy Timmons. I can also conveniently do wet/dry/wet and go into my rack gear. If you said "you can use my Princeton/Deluxe Reverb/etc." then I'll switch the ACS1 off and use the real thing. If you said "I've got a 1968 100W Super Lead mic'd up at at my studio for you to play through" then I'll grab my cable and plug straight into the Marshall. See how it works?

Do you still use the Fractal?

[rollerball]

Nothing wrong with that. It's there to be enjoyed. I only mentioned it because some people might forget there is an added cost to pushing an amp harder at low volume and cooking tubes much like gas, tires, oil, etc. with the car analogy, hence "no free lunch."

I like taking a modular approach to this stuff. I run a tube preamp (medium to higher gain) and a Bogner pedal (low gain) into Fender modeling (Walrus ACS1). I sum my stereo delay to mono and run mono out into a small cabinet at home. If I want stereo I can go stereo out into two cabinets a la Andy Timmons. I can also conveniently do wet/dry/wet and go into my rack gear. If you said "you can use my Princeton/Deluxe Reverb/etc." then I'll switch the ACS1 off and use the real thing. If you said "I've got a 1968 100W Super Lead mic'd up at at my studio for you to play through" then I'll grab my cable and plug straight into the Marshall. See how it works?

Do you still use the Fractal?

If you were a touring celebrity musician in the 80s you'd 100% have one of those huge, complicated Bradshaw rigs lol.

"This is for my bluesy break-up tone."


I do use the Fractal often just for plug and play practice, I'll alternate between the FM3 and the ENGL.

[Dominik]

If you were a touring celebrity musician in the 80s you'd 100% have one of those huge, complicated Bradshaw rigs lol.

"This is for my bluesy break-up tone."
[img]https://i.imgur.com/rEng2De.jpg[img]

I'll bet there are Gear Page members with rigs like that.



I'd take the Soldano X88R and Bogner Fish preamps, the Lexicon and Eventide chit, the TC 2290s, and the VHT power amp. They can keep the rest.

Bradshaw was (and still is) all about separating preamp, power amp, and running effects 100% wet in stereo. It sounds incredible. Essentially the sound from the control room of a studio with all the effects patched in, on a stage.

I do use the Fractal often just for plug and play practice, I'll alternate between the FM3 and the ENGL.

How's the Engl compare to digital? Can you hear much of a difference when you record or is it mostly how it feels?

[rollerball]

How's the Engl compare to digital? Can you hear much of a difference when you record or is it mostly how it feels?

I dunno if I can really hear much difference tbh, the feel is close but the ENGL does feel a bit better, slightly more dynamic.

[Dominik]

I dunno if I can really hear much difference tbh, the feel is close but the ENGL does feel a bit better, slightly more dynamic.

Nice luxury to have both.

I did the FRFR thing for a few years but prefer playing through a real cabinet. I'd be interested to know what digital for the preamp tone sounds like going into the effects return of a real amp as I'm currently doing the opposite (tube preamp into modeling into a real cab).

[rollerball]

Nice luxury to have both.

I did the FRFR thing for a few years but prefer playing through a real cabinet. I'd be interested to know what digital for the preamp tone sounds like going into the effects return of a real amp as I'm currently doing the opposite (tube preamp into modeling into a real cab).

I remember just hating FRFR. I definitely prefer using a real cab. I actually think powering modelers with a tube power amp section is the way to go for ultimate "realism".

[Dominik]

I remember just hating FRFR. I definitely prefer using a real cab. I actually think powering modelers with a tube power amp section is the way to go for ultimate "realism".

I prefer a real cab too. Came close to buying one of these a few years ago.

[rollerball]

I prefer a real cab too. Came close to buying one of these a few years ago.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/odm5a3N.jpg[img]

I hear good things about those. I'm a fan of ENGL now based upon my experiences with the Ironball SE.

[CherryPopinski]

Nothing wrong with that. It's there to be enjoyed. I only mentioned it because some people might forget there is an added cost to pushing an amp harder at low volume and cooking tubes much like gas, tires, oil, etc. with the car analogy, hence "no free lunch."

I like taking a modular approach to this stuff. I run a tube preamp (medium to higher gain) and a Bogner pedal (low gain) into Fender modeling (Walrus ACS1). I sum my stereo delay to mono and run mono out into a small cabinet at home. If I want stereo I can go stereo out into two cabinets a la Andy Timmons. I can also conveniently do wet/dry/wet and go into my rack gear. If you said "you can use my Princeton/Deluxe Reverb/etc." then I'll switch the ACS1 off and use the real thing. If you said "I've got a 1968 100W Super Lead mic'd up at at my studio for you to play through" then I'll grab my cable and plug straight into the Marshall. See how it works?

Do you still use the Fractal?

Thinking about selling my tube amp and a few pedals to be honest, I use my amp sims on my laptop much more.

[rollerball]

Thinking about selling my tube amp and few pedals to be honest, I use my amp sims on my laptop much more.

Just get a fukking modeler, amp simp software sucks compared to dedicated hardware

[CherryPopinski]

Just get a fukking modeler, amp simp software sucks compared to dedicated hardware

Yea I live in a townhouse right now, with units on each side of me so I can't really crank my OR15, I'm still thinking of holding onto my effects pedals cause you can cause them straight into an audio interface but I use Scuffham S-Gear actually. It's a pretty good program.

[rollerball]

Yea I live in a townhouse right now, with units on each side of me so I can't really crank my OR15, I'm still thinking of holding onto my effects pedals cause you can cause them straight into an audio interface but I use Scuffham S-Gear actually. It's a pretty good program.

Yeah I was the one who recommended Scuffham to you, still garbo compared to hardware modelers

[CherryPopinski]

As am I. I think they're on sale at a specialist guitar store a few hrs drive up north, going for $1400 brand new. Great price. You can see the clip I posted earlier of the Kramer Baretta, even though it's cheaper it still sounds great with the right setup.


Glad to see Kramer making a gradual comeback, hugely underrated brand. I'd like to see them pushed for modern metal, too, to mix up the monopoly ESP and Schecter have on the market.

I'm getting a $2100 bonus on my next check so I sprang for a Nightswan lol

[CherryPopinski]

Yeah I was the one who recommended Scuffham to you, still garbo compared to hardware modelers

I've been pretty pleased with it, but are you suggesting something like an Axe FX? I'm definitely thinking I might sell my amp at this point. It just sits there gathering dust.

[rollerball]

I've been pretty pleased with it, but are you suggesting something like an Axe FX? I'm definitely thinking I might sell my amp at this point. It just sits there gathering dust.

Tonex pedal

[CherryPopinski]

Tonex pedal

Just listed my amp on Reverb, I definitely don’t use it as much as I’d like to. Better just to invest in a digital setup, I’m not a gigging musician just a hobbyist.

[rollerball]

Just listed my amp on Reverb, I definitely don’t use it as much as I’d like to. Better just to invest in a digital setup, I’m not a gigging musician just a hobbyist.

There are just too many conveniences with digital these days

[Dominik]

Tonex pedal

Hard to go wrong for $400. Pair it with a decent delay and you're away.

[CherryPopinski]

Hard to go wrong for $400. Pair it with a decent delay and you're away.

I am pretty content with the sim I use, but I’ll look into this.

[Dominik]

I am pretty content with the sim I use, but I’ll look into this.

I cleared space on my board for one of those... and put a Bogner pedal on it for clean/low gain instead.

No regrets at all but if I was starting from scratch or wanted what the pros call a fly rig, a small pedalboard to take anywhere, I'd pair a Tonex with a Strymon delay and probably wouldn't need anything else.

The idea of being tethered to a computer for amp sims outside of recording music doesn't appeal to me at all.

[rollerball]

I am pretty content with the sim I use, but I’ll look into this.

Pfft I'm the one who put you onto that sim, just accept my advice and be glad I put in all the legwork

[CherryPopinski]

I cleared space on my board for one of those... and put a Bogner pedal on it for clean/low gain instead.

No regrets at all but if I was starting from scratch or wanted what the pros call a fly rig, a small pedalboard to take anywhere, I'd pair a Tonex with a Strymon delay and probably wouldn't need anything else.

The idea of being tethered to a computer for amp sims outside of recording music doesn't appeal to me at all.

Well as we previously established, I’m not a gigging musician. I’m mainly a hobbyist who records at home. Occasionally I’ll bring an electric over to my friends house to jam and record but most of the time I’m using the digital amp sim on the computer. So I have little need to have a portable rig or an actual amp with the the plethora of options these days

Between a six string, bass guitar, and eventually maybe a drum machine or electronic kit I probably don’t need much else to record and flesh out ideas at home with software.

[badger6]

I'm getting a $2100 bonus on my next check so I sprang for a Nightswan lol

How much was it? What color did you get? I'm looking at a Nightswan just to get that 24.75 scale. Not too many Gibson scale superstrats anymore. The best playing guitar I ever owned was a 1991 Charvel Fusion Plus with 24.75 scale from Victor Litz for like $399 new. Made in Japan and impeccable. The pickups killed it, they were some kind of Reflex Active super hot pickups. Jackson killed off those quickly since they played 95% as good as the USA Jacksons and far cheaper.

Anyhow, for the Kramer I was thinking the polka dot or Aztec. But I think I'm going to get the metallic black and put a light relic holoflash on it. The other option was a LTD M-1 Custom '87 or Mirage Deluxe '87 in rainbow crackle for a few hundred more. I trust ESP more than Gibson on QC. But for the extra few hundred saved, I can put toward another build. Unless there's some major structural issue, I can fix most stuff and make them good players. Plus, I like working on them more than playing them these days.

[CherryPopinski]

How much was it? What color did you get? I'm looking at a Nightswan just to get that 24.75 scale. Not too many Gibson scale superstrats anymore. The best playing guitar I ever owned was a 1991 Charvel Fusion Plus with 24.75 scale from Victor Litz for like $399 new. Made in Japan and impeccable. The pickups killed it, they were some kind of Reflex Active super hot pickups. Jackson killed off those quickly since they played 95% as good as the USA Jacksons and far cheaper.

Anyhow, for the Kramer I was thinking the polka dot or Aztec. But I think I'm going to get the metallic black and put a light relic holoflash on it. The other option was a LTD M-1 Custom '87 or Mirage Deluxe '87 in rainbow crackle for a few hundred more. I trust ESP more than Gibson on QC. But for the extra few hundred saved, I can put toward another build. Unless there's some major structural issue, I can fix most stuff and make them good players. Plus, I like working on them more than playing them these days.

I haggled on Reverb, so I got mine for $582, but with tax came out to just under $650. It just arrived today, I ended up going for the Polka Dot finish originally I did want the black sparkle though.

The Duncan JB pickups sound amazing, but this guitar definitely needs new strings and a setup. It came from a Sam Ash in California so it was probably one of those wall guitars that everyone plays.

I'm used to C shaped necks, and 12 inch radius boards but this guitar has more a Les Paul style neck which I'm kinda not used to, not bad just a different feel. I'm a half-assed shredder but it seems very easy forsure to play fast on this thing.

Once I get it dialed in I'm sure it'll be even better.

[J.L.C.]

Hard to go wrong for $400. Pair it with a decent delay and you're away.

And there's the GAS

Fok

[badger6]

How often do you guys do setups and change strings per guitar? Back when I only had a couple electrics, each one got a lot more playing time so I did about 3 string changes and 2 setups a year on each one. I do all my own setups, but now that's a lot of time and money with 7 electrics, 2 in the mod process, and an acoustic that I rarely play. I try to rotate through them all every couple weeks to to keep them in tune and give them some playing time. Kind of figured that the more guitars you own, the less playing time each one would get, therefore the less you would have to change strings and set them up. I was trying to do string changes and set ups on them all once a year, but I guess with the seasonal changes that doesn't seem to be the case.