Evil european witblitz. The 701 is growing on me.
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12-01-2015, 02:22 AM #121
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12-01-2015, 02:39 AM #122
You can do all that **** on a KTM690. Husqvarna has just done the marketing right for this bike where KTM ****ed it up. A lot of 690 owners think that you can not ride them like that. It really is a fantastic all round bike to ride. Not perfect for unique stuff, but good enough to allow you to almost ride everywhere if you only have one bike. If you get a chance, just ride one.
Great news is that Husky has made a long range tank for that bike. Otherwise, safari tanks, will probably also make one.
I like the husky colours.
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12-01-2015, 02:45 AM #123
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12-01-2015, 02:54 AM #124
Just looked up the long range tank
its pretty ugly but I didn't realize it had an underseat tank.
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12-01-2015, 03:05 AM #125
Better front forks compared to the low models. the R models of 2009, 2010 and 2011 had the longer travel and harder forks. The husky has gone back to the longer travel suspension. Not sure about the valving and springs though.
Not sure about the brakes
2L of extra fuel is no much.
Agree about the colour.
I was looking up the long range tank for you now, before I post. yeah they are ugly. I am not sure how well they will hold up in a fall.
Been looking for this. Here is a 690 that has been modded to look like a 701. I like it like this but too much money to spend I think. Cheaper to use a 501 for racing.
Our "Husky 701" project bike, built for Carl Hagenblad's Baja Rally entry that fell through, has been finished and looks fantastic with the strengthened powder-coated frame in brilliant white. The OEM rear tank has also been painted white, and an EVO2 Tank Kit fitted, to give the extra fuel range required in the gruelling desert race.
Tractive 300mm Rallye shock & WP Cone Valve forks take care of the suspension department, and the 654cc LC4 motor has been perked up with our Hi-Comp piston and a Nova Racing wide-ratio 6-speed gearbox.
The rebuilding of the motor, and all the bike preparation, including suspension tuning, has been carried out at Torque Racing by Dakar mechanic Martin Wittering.
The bike looks stunning, nearly too good to race !!!!!!!!!!
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12-01-2015, 03:36 AM #126
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12-01-2015, 06:00 AM #127
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12-01-2015, 07:38 AM #128
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12-01-2015, 07:47 AM #129
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12-01-2015, 08:48 AM #130*No bulge because micropenis crew*
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12-01-2015, 09:34 AM #131
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And how hard was it learning on the ZX6R? Do you think you would've been better starting out smaller? What were track days like if you did them?
I mean I was advised to always max out liability and property damage. Also, uninsured is something I should have or risk going with out (gonna have to rely on healthcare then?)? That's what's really bending me over on it.
Definitely not going to go without comprehensive. Last thing I need is some a$$hat stealing my bike and leaving me $3k in the hole. I guess I could increase the deductible though.
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12-01-2015, 10:15 AM #132
for what it's worth, i started on a 1992 ninja 500, and i can think of a couple times if I were on a 600cc inline 4 I would have gotten myself in some chit. had it about 8 months
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12-01-2015, 10:47 AM #133
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This is why I kind of don't want to start on a 600 I4.
Kind of just want to get a Ninja 300:
- Clip-ons and Rearsets
- Adjusted suspension for sag, dampening and preload
- better tires once mine are worn out
- frame sliders
- tapered roller steering head bearings
- 15t sprocket
- any cheap inexpensive mods that help with control
And just call it a day for a couple months
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12-01-2015, 11:05 AM #134
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All of that sounds pretty sensible in a function over form perspective but don't dump too much money into it. Chances are it won't be your first and last bike and you'll take a hit in resale. I'm all for you buying clip ons and rearsets if it'll make you comfortable. Have you done reading on those?
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12-01-2015, 11:20 AM #135
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Yeah I think the clip ons and rearsets will be the most expensive things. I've sat on a ninja 300 and my knees come almost above the gas tank and it's pretty cramped.
I'm 6'2"/6'3" with a 33-34 in. inseam.
Hopefully the clip ons / rearsets will stretch me out over the bike a little more instead of being upright and feeling awkward. I've also read that cornering feels a lot better with clip ons over handlebars.
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12-01-2015, 11:51 AM #136
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Why are you planning on replacing the steering bearings on a pretty much new streetbike?
2015 KTM Super Duke R ABS || 2014 KTM 300XC-W || 2006 ZX6R || 2020 CRF125F || 2016 Rancher 420 || 2017 Z125
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12-01-2015, 11:53 AM #137
yeah i always tell people try not to drop more than 2.5-3gs for your first bike unless it's something you reallllly want and plan on keeping. hell i paid $900 for mine
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12-01-2015, 12:03 PM #138
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12-01-2015, 12:04 PM #139
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12-01-2015, 12:28 PM #140
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12-01-2015, 12:45 PM #141
Tfw DRZs pop up for sale but they're 3+ hours away
I admit all my threads suck :(
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12-01-2015, 12:52 PM #142
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12-01-2015, 01:42 PM #143
did not fall, did not die, never wished i had something smaller or slower, never blew a dude. that gen ZX6R(00-02 or newer ZZR) are fairly capable track bikes, and a little more comfortable than the 636. I never once regretted starting on that bike and kept it for 5 years. Its easy to ride, comfortable, and plenty fast enough to grow into.
Might be a smart bike to start on for you too, they can be had for cheap.
Zero complaints with it. being carb'd was never an issue. It is a fairly aggressive supersport race rep bike like the rest of them for that time, but feels like a couch compared my new R6.RIP KD brahs
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12-01-2015, 02:05 PM #144
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^^
A lot of inner city stop light riding or most of your riding done on stretches of highway?
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12-01-2015, 02:05 PM #145
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I don't think I want to deal with carbs. However I think I may take stepping down from a 2005-2006 636 to a 03/04 and keep it for a couple of years. They can be had for a lot cheaper than the 2005-06s which seem to be insanely popular still.
God damn. I am unsure of what to do now. A 300 will cost me more money but a good condition 03-04 636 could be had for like $2.5k. WAY way WAY cheaper than what I have and I wouldn't need to worry about any extra DMV fees or anything.
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12-01-2015, 03:26 PM #146
I started on a 08 cbr600. Fuk being a pussy and riding on a 250 for a few years.
I rekt it at 80mph in a 35mph turn lololololo*No bulge because micropenis crew*
*Admire other men's bulges because micropenis crew*
*Piss on balls every time because micropenis crew*
*Doctor laughs during checkups because micropenis crew*
*"Is it in yet?" because micropenis crew*
*Smallest micropenis in micropenis support group crew*
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12-01-2015, 04:26 PM #147
Just buy the cheapest fukking Ninja 300/250/w.e that you can find when you're looking to buy. Don't plan out any mods when you haven't even ridden the thing, that's just stupid. And the best thing is as you bought it cheap you won't take much of an L when you sell the thing later on. Don't start on an inline 4 supersport just because one person said you'll be alright because he was alright. You don't know anything about him, where/how he rode or if he's even good at riding.
Buying a bike isn't complicated. If all of the slack jawed fuks in this thread managed to do it, you can.Registered owner of Dan_Staat's sister
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12-01-2015, 04:44 PM #148
The reason one should start on a 250/300 is to learn to ride the twisties/have control of their bike.
If you only want to do 160 down the highway, just get a 600 and have a blast.
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12-01-2015, 05:46 PM #149
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Well I guess that settles it. Gonna get an I4 600.
Nah but I'm going to look around. And the mods, aside from frame silders, engine casing protectors and suspension setting won't really be applied to the bike until later if I decide to keep it longer than 6 - 8 months.
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12-01-2015, 06:43 PM #150
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Get a 250, you prob gonna fall or crash....cheap if i total my 250 its only 2000 bucks down the drain compared to like 5-6k
speaking about 600's whats a fair priced for a used cbr or R6 not really trying to go above 6k, 5-6k would be perfect.** KNEE DRAGGERS UNITE **
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