Building a 2x2 Power Rack - Advice needed!

[ZeppelinDude87]

Hello guys,

I'm currently just about to make a 2x2 power rack. Luckily, my good friend is a fantastic metal worker and I've shown him some designs and plans and he says it wont be a problem. I'm basically just looking for some final pointers before we go ahead and build it.

First off, he has alot of 2x2 steel in stock ready to use. Its heavy gauge. I believe 3 mm thickness. I suggested using 3x3 and while he says that is an option and I can get it if I like, he does not believe it to be necessary. Also, the 3x3 costs about one and a half times the price the 2x2 does.

So I think we're going with the 2x2. I'd been looking a the EliteFTS 2x2 rack and I'm thinking we will make one something similar to that, maybe with a few modifications. I'm using a standard 7ft bar. I think these have about approx 52"-53" spacing between the collars.

I'm just wondering a few points:

First off, when using 2x2 should I make the inner spacing between the uprights 42" or 43"?

I think alot of 3x3 racks have 42" spacing, two uprights of 3" plus 42" spacing would equal 48" width overall. Or if using 2x2, 46" overall. On the other hand, with a 43" inner spacing, 3x3 would be 49" overall, and 2x2 would be 47" (even less than 3x3 with 42" spacing, which seems to be the standard). So I'm thinking 43" would be the inner distance to go with? As were using 2x2 I can afford to have the extra inch without sacrificing outer space or the uprights being near the plates/collars of the barbell?

Secondly, as I'm using 2x2 steel. Regarding the safety rods. Could anyone recommend what diameter of safety rod they think would be optimal for a 2x2 rack? Or anyone know what diameter of safety rod is generally used in 2x2 power racks? I haven't checked but I'd guess anything as big as 1" rods might be too large for a 2x2 rack, and more than likely unnecessary anyways? Safety rod hole spacing will likely be 2". That seems to be the standard from what I can see.

At first I was just going to make a flat base. But now I'm thinking we will probably elevate the front to rear supports so it will have a sumo style base.. with four plates on the bottoms of the uprights and just bolt it to the concrete floor. Is this a good idea? Or is there any disadvantages to the sumo style base? I believe front to rear distance isn't all that important, probably the larger the better, for more stability. Space isn't really an issue. I've got quite alot of space. The rack is going to be in a large gym area.

Finally, height. I'm about 5'10. I'd like to be able to do standing military presses and high enough to do pullups/chinups from. I see racks tend to be everything from 7ft (even less) up to 8ft on average. Height isn't an issue for me either, the roof of where the power rack will be is about 18ft at its lowest. As its going to be 2x2 I think the height would be good at 7.5ft or there abouts? Any more might be unnecessary and a bit of a jump to do pullups!

I think these four above points are all I'm wondering about. To break it down, for a 2x2 rack:

- Perfect inner spacing?
- Safety bar diameter?
- Sumo base. Yes or no?
- Optimal height?

If anyone could give their input it would be greatly appreciated. Or if theres anything else I may have overlooked or should consider before starting to make the rack please let me know.

Many thanks in advance.

[Mech6]

Hello guys,

I'm currently just about to make a 2x2 power rack. Luckily, my good friend is a fantastic metal worker and I've shown him some designs and plans and he says it wont be a problem. I'm basically just looking for some final pointers before we go ahead and build it.

First off, he has alot of 2x2 steel in stock ready to use. Its heavy gauge. I believe 3 mm thickness. I suggested using 3x3 and while he says that is an option and I can get it if I like, he does not believe it to be necessary. Also, the 3x3 costs about one and a half times the price the 2x2 does.

So I think we're going with the 2x2. I'd been looking a the EliteFTS 2x2 rack and I'm thinking we will make one something similar to that, maybe with a few modifications. I'm using a standard 7ft bar. I think these have about approx 52"-53" spacing between the collars.

I'm just wondering a few points:

First off, when using 2x2 should I make the inner spacing between the uprights 42" or 43"?

43"

Secondly, as I'm using 2x2 steel. Regarding the safety rods. Could anyone recommend what diameter of safety rod they think would be optimal for a 2x2 rack? Or anyone know what diameter of safety rod is generally used in 2x2 power racks? I haven't checked but I'd guess anything as big as 1" rods might be too large for a 2x2 rack, and more than likely unnecessary anyways? Safety rod hole spacing will likely be 2". That seems to be the standard from what I can see.

1" if it's just the rod (saber safety), 5/8" if it's rod/pipe (like elitefts).

At first I was just going to make a flat base. But now I'm thinking we will probably elevate the front to rear supports so it will have a sumo style base.. with four plates on the bottoms of the uprights and just bolt it to the concrete floor. Is this a good idea? Or is there any disadvantages to the sumo style base? I believe front to rear distance isn't all that important, probably the larger the better, for more stability. Space isn't really an issue. I've got quite alot of space. The rack is going to be in a large gym area.

Yes, do the sumo base.

Finally, height. I'm about 5'10. I'd like to be able to do standing military presses and high enough to do pullups/chinups from. I see racks tend to be everything from 7ft (even less) up to 8ft on average. Height isn't an issue for me either, the roof of where the power rack will be is about 18ft at its lowest. As its going to be 2x2 I think the height would be good at 7.5ft or there abouts? Any more might be unnecessary and a bit of a jump to do pullups!

90" is good.

[ZeppelinDude87]

43"



1" if it's just the rod (saber safety), 5/8" if it's rod/pipe (like elitefts).



Yes, do the sumo base.



90" is good.

Hello Mech6,

Thank you very much for your reply. Thats great and pretty much confirms what I was thinking. I will go with the 43" spacing between the uprights.

Regarding the safety rods. I gather saber style just means solid bar type safety bars? I'm just going with solid bar. So if thats the case the 1"? Its not too large in the 2x2 no? I'm debating on spacing, I think alot of people believe 2" spacing is sufficient. When people say 2" spacing I assume that is 2" from the center of one hole to the center of the next one?

Okay, I will go with the sumo style base also. Is there any ideal height the front to rear supports would be raised from the floor? I'm not sure but I was guessing maybe 6" from the floor to the base of the support should be okay? Or would I need more?

Thanks. That'd be 90" to the very top? The top of the front to rear piece of 2x2. Leaving 88" the total inside height?

Sorry for all the questions! I just want to make sure everything is perfect before we start so we don't have to change anything later or regret not doing something after its been made! I'll post pictures of the rack when we have it completed. Hopefully shouldn't take long. I think the spotter holes will be the most time consuming!

[Mech6]

Hello Mech6,

Thank you very much for your reply. Thats great and pretty much confirms what I was thinking. I will go with the 43" spacing between the uprights.

Regarding the safety rods. I gather saber style just means solid bar type safety bars? I'm just going with solid bar. So if thats the case the 1"? Its not too large in the 2x2 no? I'm debating on spacing, I think alot of people believe 2" spacing is sufficient. When people say 2" spacing I assume that is 2" from the center of one hole to the center of the next one?

Okay, I will go with the sumo style base also. Is there any ideal height the front to rear supports would be raised from the floor? I'm not sure but I was guessing maybe 6" from the floor to the base of the support should be okay? Or would I need more?

Thanks. That'd be 90" to the very top? The top of the front to rear piece of 2x2. Leaving 88" the total inside height?

Sorry for all the questions! I just want to make sure everything is perfect before we start so we don't have to change anything later or regret not doing something after its been made! I'll post pictures of the rack when we have it completed. Hopefully shouldn't take long. I think the spotter holes will be the most time consuming!

I'd use rod/pipe if I were you. But yes, you can go 1" with 2x2 tubing. 1" cold rolled steel bar. Keep in mind 1" safety means your rack holes have to be more. At least 1/16" more.
Spacing is center-center distance.
7.5" from floor to top of support. You won't be able to DL if you go higher
Yes for 88" inside height.

[ZeppelinDude87]

I'd use rod/pipe if I were you. But yes, you can go 1" with 2x2 tubing. 1" cold rolled steel bar. Keep in mind 1" safety means your rack holes have to be more. At least 1/16" more.
Spacing is center-center distance.
7.5" from floor to top of support. You won't be able to DL if you go higher
Yes for 88" inside height.

I was not familiar with the rod/pipe style safeties. But I looked them up online. Sounds good. From what I gather its just a piece of rod inside another piece of pipe. The piece of pipe just running the inner distance of front to rear supports, the rod extending out the uprights at both sides as normal. When you say 5/8" is that the diameter for the actual rod? What size of pipe would be a good combination with this?

Also, I'm just thinking. The deeper I make the rack front to rear, like the front to rear supports, essentially the weaker the safeties will be, right? I can't get dimensions but going from pictures the Elite FTS 2x2 rack doesn't look as deep front to back as it is wide. I was thinking of making my own rack square, 47" wide by 47" deep to the outside of the uprights, as I have the space to make it big and stable, and I don't want it to feel cramped in any way. Now I'm beginning to wonder would that deepness be okay for my safeties or would it be wiser to make it less deep front to back..

Ah I see. Thank you, I did not think of that! 7.5" to the top of front to rear support, that would allow maximum space under the supports but with enough clearance for the bar doing deadlifts using standard plates. I think the bottom of the bar would be around 8.5" so leaves an inch. Excellent. Will make the supports to that height.

Thanks,

[dieselmike]

You just got 2 posts worth of advice from the fabricating expert on this forum. Worth it's weight in gold. As for hole spacing I have 1 3/4" spacing on center. Diameter of hole is ~11/16, (1/16 larger than 5/8) to accommodate for attachments utilizing 5/8" holes you may want to get later on. (J-Cups, Dip bars, etc). Which is what I believe most manufacturers use.

As usual keep us updated and post pics along the way as we enjoy these types of custom builds.

[Mech6]

I was not familiar with the rod/pipe style safeties. But I looked them up online. Sounds good. From what I gather its just a piece of rod inside another piece of pipe. The piece of pipe just running the inner distance of front to rear supports, the rod extending out the uprights at both sides as normal. When you say 5/8" is that the diameter for the actual rod? What size of pipe would be a good combination with this?

Also, I'm just thinking. The deeper I make the rack front to rear, like the front to rear supports, essentially the weaker the safeties will be, right? I can't get dimensions but going from pictures the Elite FTS 2x2 rack doesn't look as deep front to back as it is wide. I was thinking of making my own rack square, 47" wide by 47" deep to the outside of the uprights, as I have the space to make it big and stable, and I don't want it to feel cramped in any way. Now I'm beginning to wonder would that deepness be okay for my safeties or would it be wiser to make it less deep front to back..

Ah I see. Thank you, I did not think of that! 7.5" to the top of front to rear support, that would allow maximum space under the supports but with enough clearance for the bar doing deadlifts using standard plates. I think the bottom of the bar would be around 8.5" so leaves an inch. Excellent. Will make the supports to that height.

Thanks,

Pipe would be 1-1/2" (so 1.9" OD) SCH40 (or 80), or 1.9" OD x 3/16" HSS tubing (which has a nicer finish).
Anything more than 30" deep isn't really needed. Up to you. Safeties becomes very annoying to handle when it's longer.

[irongrandpa]

I sold a ProElite commercial rack because it was 46" deep from the front upright to the back one. My homemade rack is 30" and I don't need any more room. If I did go larger, 36" deep is the max I would want. JMO.

[THErunCMD]

I love that same Pro-Elite rack because of the depth (I can set up a bar on either side of the inside). However, that is a drop-in rack. As Mech6 said, you want to keep it 30" or under dealing with pipe/rod safeties.

[slashragnarok]

Here's the drawing of the power rack I built, for what it's worth. Also included the J-Hooks drawing.

[img][/img]

[ZeppelinDude87]

Excellent. So we're basically ready to go. Huge thanks to Mech6 for all the dimensions and advice.

I'm gonna settle on:

- 2x2 3mm box section

- Height: 90" (88" inner height)
- Depth: 34" (30" inner depth)
- Width: 47" (43" inner width)

- Sumo base: 7.5" to the top of support (5.5" to the bottom)

- Safety bars: 5/8" solid bar with 1-1/2" (1.9" outside diameter) pipe.

- Safety bar holes: 11/16" to accommodate 5/8" bars/attachments.

- Hole Spacing: This is the only thing I've yet to make a final decision on. I actually think I would prefer to build it with the same spacing everywhere opposed to variable spacing. Like 2" spacing (11/16" holes for 5/8" safeties/attachments) everywhere. I know its probably a personal preference thing, but do you guys think it would it be worth doing less spacing in the bench region? Or would one spacing, like 2" (or 1-3/4" like dieselmike suggested) all round be sufficient? Basically just a good sweet spot, all round spacing that leaves ample metal between the holes when they're drilled 11/18".

I think we're gonna start it one morning and just continue until its done. I will definitely post some pictures of the finished article.

[519Barbell]

not worried about using west side spacing in the bench area of the cage?

also I love the drawing nicely done.

Jeff

[Xone]

The spacing is personal preferences- and depends on how big your bench arch is. "Westside" hole spacing with 1" in the bench region and 2" everywhere else is common, but some people think it is unnecessary and annoying. I happen to love it. You could also do 1.5" in the bench region- elite has some racks that are 2"/1.5".

[slashragnarok]

not worried about using west side spacing in the bench area of the cage?

also I love the drawing nicely done.

Jeff

Thanks. Also OP needs to keep in mind that in any case, the dimensions are of the safety pins. The holes need to be a bit larger. Also if drilling all the holes like I got done, 1" center to center hole spacing could be troublesome when using lighter than 11 gauge tubing. At least that's what the guy who fabricated my design told me. Westside probably laser cuts everything. But again seriously, I think 1" center to center is ridiculous. I would rather keep my holes 2 inches apart and use a piece of plywood or rubber mat to adjust the height of my bench.

[ZeppelinDude87]

Thanks for that input slashragnarok. I'm going with 2" spacing. My friend has bar in stock, I told him 5/8 but he has bar in stock just slightly bigger he will give me so were using that.

How far up the upright would be best to start drilling the holes and how far up to finish drilling? I'm gonna guess begin maybe 12" from the end of each upright? I don't want to have to drill more holes than necessary.

Finally, he says he would like to put a bottom left to right support across the base of the rack for extra stability. Is this okay? Would it be best left ground level? I know the EliteFTS and the R3 are essentially open in this respect with no support running across the width of the rack at the bottom. Any reason for this?

[Xone]

Finally, he says he would like to put a bottom left to right support across the base of the rack for extra stability. Is this okay? Would it be best left ground level? I know the EliteFTS and the R3 are essentially open in this respect with no support running across the width of the rack at the bottom. Any reason for this?

If you put a support at the bottom without offsetting it way back it will get in the way of placing a bench or using the rack from that end, and it is unnecessary if the rack is bolted down. Will get in the way for flat benching and you will really understand if you ever try to place an incline bench in a power rack where it is even more of an issue.

[ZeppelinDude87]

If you put a support at the bottom without offsetting it way back it will get in the way of placing a bench or using the rack from that end, and it is unnecessary if the rack is bolted down. Will get in the way for flat benching and you will really understand if you ever try to place an incline bench in a power rack where it is even more of an issue.

Excellent. Thanks for that. I was beginning to think that might be the case alright, issues with benches and maybe comfortable placement for squats and stuff too? I've actually not much experience with power racks. I've just used benches, stands etc. But a power rack is something I definitely need as most of the time I'll be lifting alone.

So yes, in that case, I'll keep it open then, should be good with the side supports anyways and like you say, it'll be well bolted down. We were just thinking to make it as stable as possible. I see alot of 3x3 power racks and they have a rear support and it doesn't really look that far back, just made me wonder. I guess it could cause issues.

We got a start made today anyways as we had a free hour or two. Got the four uprights cut 90", marked, drilled pilot holes and drilled all the holes to suit the 5/8" bars/attachments. Decided to go with the 5/8" pin and pipe style in the end. We had a length of 5/8" to test the fit with and its perfect.

I just had to hazard a guess and we started the holes 12" from the bottom and finished 10" from the top. 35 holes in each upright as far as I remember. Could be amended if needed but I think it should be okay with that.

Now just a matter of cutting a few supports, floor plates and a few other bits and pieces and welding it together I guess. Hopefully should have the bulk of it finished tomorrow. I do have some bar and pipe to buy and get my friend to make me up some j-hooks also. I think we're gonna run some 1" bar across the front for pullups too.

I tried to post pictures but it says I can't because my post count is under 50

[ZeppelinDude87]

I realized I can upload pictures to my bodyspace profile "gallery", so as I can't post pictures on the forums yet I'll post progress of the rack there for the moment if anyone wants to check it out.

[Domicron]

click "go advanced" then scroll down to "manage attachments"

then they'll be attached and someone else can embed them for you.

[ZeppelinDude87]

click "go advanced" then scroll down to "manage attachments"

then they'll be attached and someone else can embed them for you.

Sweet! I was not aware I could upload them that way. Thank you for that. I've just a few pictures of the uprights we drilled today, nothing interesting yet. Should have something better tomorrow.

[Sdca7718]

You might want to add some support to the side to side crossmembers like what Mech6 does on his. It is a extra piece to brace the bar to reduce sway. Some companies do a whole banner piece with their name but I think those are excessive.

[ZeppelinDude87]

You might want to add some support to the side to side crossmembers like what Mech6 does on his. It is a extra piece to brace the bar to reduce sway. Some companies do a whole banner piece with their name but I think those are excessive.

Yeah, were going to put some extra support in the corners. Just to keep it good and sturdy. Many thanks.

[ZeppelinDude87]

Unfortunately I didn't get any more done to this today. Hopefully tomorrow I will get some done if my friend has some free time to help me.

I was just thinking. That the uprights are cut and drilled but aren't welded together yet. I'm debating whether I should drill some more 1" inch apart holes in the bench area. If I'm not mistaken I could still do this, as the holes are 2" apart and they're only approx 11/16. So just mark and drill one more in between each of the already drilled holes leaving a bench range with 1" spacing. I'd imagine it sure as hell would be alot easier to drill them now that the rack isn't welded up opposed to deciding I wanna do it later which could prove a bit trickier.

I have read some people say any less than 2" is really a luxury and not a necessity. I've even read some people say its a bit of a pain in the ass at times. Others seem to say they think its great, especially for benching. I'm aware it's totally the last thing I should be thinking of but I prefer the look of the same spacing all the way through though. I assume theres probably other ways around getting smaller increments like modified spotters that would essentially raise an inch or or even putting something under then bench or whatever.

I think I'll sleep on it.

[Domicron]

Sweet! I was not aware I could upload them that way. Thank you for that. I've just a few pictures of the uprights we drilled today, nothing interesting yet. Should have something better tomorrow.

embedded

[ZeppelinDude87]

We spent a while and finished the rack today. Didn't take that long at all to complete. I'm really pleased with the finished article. I think it will be just perfect. Obviously I've a few finishing touches to do. I've got to get some more bar and tube so we can make the pin and pipe safeties. I'm also gonna paint it over the weekend. Here's some pictures. I'll post some later in a new thread when I get it home tonight, I think it'll look real nice when I get it painted and bolted down. Anyways, just a few pictures. I probably should have taken more during construction but I didn't really get a chance as I was helping out. Oh and those little strips of metal sheet going across at the bottoms were just tacked on for transportation.. they're coming off. For some reason the last picture keeps coming out vertical, dunno why!

[CliveWarren]

[CliveWarren]

Looks really good. I'm not sure why you built it fully welded. I would have made it so you could knock it apart for easier transport, and painting. Since it's not going down to your basement then it's not going to matter.

[ZeppelinDude87]

Looks really good. I'm not sure why you built it fully welded. I would have made it so you could knock it apart for easier transport, and painting. Since it's not going down to your basement then it's not going to matter.

Thank you very much! I appreciate the input.

Just like you said, my friend said they're probably just made bolt together for easy transportation, like shipping in flatpacks for the companies who make them. He said he we could make it either way, but if it was his he would want to fully weld it. So we went full welded. I'm glad we did. We used 1" solid bar for the front crossmember, its great for pullups (couldn't resist trying it out). So much better than what I was previously using.

Transportation wasn't an issue. He lives close by and I already picked it up with my truck and trailer. Yeah, its going in a spacious area so it wont matter.. So all good. No worries there. I've painted alot of stuff in the past and it turned out good. I thought about getting it powdercoated but I think I'm just gonna go with some good ol' metal paint.

[Hanzyusuf]

Hey man, followed the whole thread all the way through. I'm planning to build the exact same thing with the same dimensions and all, just bolted instead of welded. It would be awesome if you could share your experience/feedback which you must have garnered over the.... past .... 8 .... years. Time flies 😢

[William929]

Hello guys,

I'm currently just about to make a 2x2 power rack. Luckily, my good friend is a fantastic metal worker and I've shown him some designs and plans and he says it wont be a problem. I'm basically just looking for some final pointers before we go ahead and build it.

First off, he has alot of 2x2 steel in stock ready to use. Its heavy gauge. I believe 3 mm thickness. I suggested using 3x3 and while he says that is an option and I can get it if I like, he does not believe it to be necessary. Also, the 3x3 costs about one and a half times the price the 2x2 does.

So I think we're going with the 2x2. I'd been looking a the EliteFTS 2x2 rack and I'm thinking we will make one something similar to that, maybe with a few modifications. I'm using a standard 7ft bar. I think these have about approx 52"-53" spacing between the collars.

I'm just wondering a few points:

First off, when using 2x2 should I make the inner spacing between the uprights 42" or 43"?

I think alot of 3x3 racks have 42" spacing, two uprights of 3" plus 42" spacing would equal 48" width overall. Or if using 2x2, 46" overall. On the other hand, with a 43" inner spacing, 3x3 would be 49" overall, and 2x2 would be 47" (even less than 3x3 with 42" spacing, which seems to be the standard). So I'm thinking 43" would be the inner distance to go with? As were using 2x2 I can afford to have the extra inch without sacrificing outer space or the uprights being near the plates/collars of the barbell?

Secondly, as I'm using 2x2 steel. Regarding the safety rods. Could anyone recommend what diameter of safety rod they think would be optimal for a 2x2 rack? Or anyone know what diameter of safety rod is generally used in 2x2 power racks? I haven't checked but I'd guess anything as big as 1" rods might be too large for a 2x2 rack, and more than likely unnecessary anyways? Safety rod hole spacing will likely be 2". That seems to be the standard from what I can see.

At first I was just going to make a flat base. But now I'm thinking we will probably elevate the front to rear supports so it will have a sumo style base.. with four plates on the bottoms of the uprights and just bolt it to the concrete floor. Is this a good idea? Or is there any disadvantages to the sumo style base? I believe front to rear distance isn't all that important, probably the larger the better, for more stability. Space isn't really an issue. I've got quite alot of space. The rack is going to be in a large gym area.

Finally, height. I'm about 5'10. I'd like to be able to do standing military presses and high enough to do pullups/chinups from. I see racks tend to be everything from 7ft (even less) up to 8ft on average. Height isn't an issue for me either, the roof of where the power rack will be is about 18ft at its lowest. As its going to be 2x2 I think the height would be good at 7.5ft or there abouts? Any more might be unnecessary and a bit of a jump to do pullups!

I think these four above points are all I'm wondering about. To break it down, for a 2x2 rack:

- Perfect inner spacing?
- Safety bar diameter?
- Sumo base. Yes or no?
- Optimal height?

If anyone could give their input it would be greatly appreciated. Or if theres anything else I may have overlooked or should consider before starting to make the rack please let me know.

Many thanks in advance.

Hi Everyone