Roll pins are also available on Amazon not that i needed any
IGP,
Yes, I remember the conversation and i was able to get them out. It is in the barbell thread.
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Thread: York Barbell Club - Part II
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10-24-2017, 07:05 AM #4741
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10-24-2017, 05:39 PM #4742
Thought you may enjoy
Hello!
Not a weightlifter but live in the York area. Thought your members may enjoy this airial drone video I shot last summer of York Barbell and the USA Weightlifter Hall of Fame.
Hope you enjoy!
John LaRose
My apologies. It will not let me post a link. You can see the video by searching youtube for 'York Barbell and the USA Weightlifting Hall of Fame'. Maybe someone else could post the link for me?
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10-24-2017, 06:04 PM #4743
here you go.
https://youtu.be/_dDuDs8V1Bw
I quote with pics. ()---() York Barbell Club #78 (DD) ()---()
My gym walk thru: https://forum.bodybuilding.com/showthread.php?p=1629553623#post1629553623
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10-24-2017, 06:06 PM #4744
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10-24-2017, 06:32 PM #4745
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10-26-2017, 02:17 PM #4746
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10-26-2017, 05:49 PM #4747
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10-26-2017, 11:47 PM #4748
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10-27-2017, 07:57 AM #4749
- Join Date: Dec 2010
- Location: Tornado, West Virginia, United States
- Age: 66
- Posts: 3,949
- Rep Power: 51120
That's how it seems to go. I may go for months or a year or more with nothing and then, out of nowhere, I'll find some Yorks for good prices. I've had 2 buys in the last couple of weeks after not seeing anything for a loong, long time. Still waiting to see deep dish in RL.
Now OK for Sig line to be a novel
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10-29-2017, 08:33 PM #4750
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10-30-2017, 05:31 PM #4751
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10-30-2017, 06:02 PM #4752
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10-30-2017, 06:56 PM #4753
Great work. Can you detail your process for me. Which steel wool did you use. This does not appear to have taken the paint off. Did you soak the plates in a vinegar bath. And for the bar did you use the steel wool all over it, even on the knurling. I feel like a spent a lot of time on my last lot of yorks and they don't look as good as yours. Thanks. Eric
I quote with pics. ()---() York Barbell Club #78 (DD) ()---()
My gym walk thru: https://forum.bodybuilding.com/showthread.php?p=1629553623#post1629553623
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10-31-2017, 04:52 AM #4754
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10-31-2017, 06:10 AM #4755
- Join Date: Dec 2010
- Location: Tornado, West Virginia, United States
- Age: 66
- Posts: 3,949
- Rep Power: 51120
Eric, I didn't soak them in vinegar, I used 0000 grade steel wool dipped in vinegar and I'd scrub and then wipe off the rusty solution with a clean rag. I usually had to do this once or twice and then let them dry completely. Next I used WD40 on a rag and wiped everything down with a heavy coat of WD40. I let them dry 2 or 3 days and wiped any oil that may have not been absorbed before I put them on the rack. Even though I couldn't wipe off any oil, these will continue to dry and will lighten up some. I've done all my plates the same way and some look better than others depending on the starting condition. On the bar, I took the sleeves off and used a wire wheel to get the worst of the rust off, then used the steel wool/vinegar /rag. Then I rubbed the sleeves out with a dry steel wool pad. The shaft of the bar actually didn't have much rust, I used the same thing on it as the plates but only one pass was needed. I let it dry overnight then oiled it . I worked on them at different times but, total time was probably 3 -4 hrs.
Now OK for Sig line to be a novel
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10-31-2017, 08:40 AM #4756
Nice write-up. Long story short: if you want the results you need to put in the effort. I'm going to throw my 2cents in. (1) I've had success on rusty plates or dumbbells with either a wire brush or wire wheel. You are not going to damage cast iron. (2) I use Slick50 OneLube to coat plates/dumbbells that I'm not going to paint. It goes on exactly like WD-40, but the coating is IMHO much more durable.
()---() York Barbell Club #73 ()---()
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10-31-2017, 05:19 PM #4757
Thank you grandpa. I may try this since it appears to not remove the paint.
Thanks for the Slick50 rec, may have to try it. I spent a lot of time on my most recent plates. Continuous scrub down with 3-1 with the brass tooth brush then final wd40coat. Had to use some CLR on the 45 with heavy rust on the back. Key may be the steel wool if I can preserve the paint since I don’t want to repaint. Used some clr soaked rags draped on the sleeves. I posted some pics a few pages ago.
Before
After
I quote with pics. ()---() York Barbell Club #78 (DD) ()---()
My gym walk thru: https://forum.bodybuilding.com/showthread.php?p=1629553623#post1629553623
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11-02-2017, 07:23 AM #4758
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11-02-2017, 07:04 PM #4759
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11-03-2017, 03:48 AM #4760
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11-03-2017, 07:23 AM #4761
- Join Date: Dec 2010
- Location: Virginia, United States
- Age: 63
- Posts: 13,034
- Rep Power: 63386
You need a good rack, a bench, and a 300-lb Olympic weight set. Now, what was your question?
My home gym: http://forum.bodybuilding.com/showthread.php?t=652376&p=1465291461&viewfull=1#post1465291461.
()---() York Barbell Club #1 (DD, RH, Kg) ()---() []---[] Equipment Crew #36 []---[] []---[] Ivanko Barbell Crew #51 []---[] [M]===[6] Mech6 Crew #29 [M]===[6] ~~ 4 Horsemen ~~
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11-03-2017, 08:17 AM #4762
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11-03-2017, 11:01 AM #4763
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11-03-2017, 11:47 AM #4764
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11-03-2017, 12:55 PM #4765
He keeps saying that he will not sell the bar. He wants to keep it. But I know him , he will keep it for 3 to 4 months and then will list it. He does that with Vintage York and Jackson stuff.
so I told him why wait that long. He said that way both of us can feel better. So i will wait. It will be in my GYM . Just matter of time.
my offer was to trade my 80's bar (restored) for this one.
He also has another one with no name on but has roll pin on the end caps. We are planning to take the sleeves off and see when it is made. If it is before 70's then I might grab that one too.[M]===[6]▪ Mech6 Crew #35 ▪[M]===[6]
[]------[] York Barbell Club #80 (DD)[]-----[]
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11-11-2017, 06:27 PM #4766
Thank you ChuckRose and AttyGuy.
I have a follow up to this, the other three plates from this pick-up have similar smooth spots (but to a lesser extent). It just doesn't seem like the milling pattern should start/stop in this manner if they indeed came from York like this. The milling is also a lot shallower on these four than my other four, so I wanted to get your guys' opinion again on these.
Rusted and repainted? Or original?
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11-11-2017, 06:39 PM #4767
- Join Date: Feb 2011
- Location: Lockport, New York, United States
- Age: 50
- Posts: 1,195
- Rep Power: 6900
When the plates were originally cast they were overweight so York mills them down until enough material is removed to bring them down the correct weight. These ones just didn't need to be milled too much and the "smooth" spots are just low areas that the milling process didn't get to before making weight. Some plates need more removed so the entire backside is milled and some plates don't require any milling at all. This wasn't a process they went through just to make them look cool it served a purpose. Looking cool is just a side benefit.
▪█─────█▪ Equipment Crew #52 ▪█─────█▪
[]---[] Ivanko Barbell Crew #5 []---[]
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11-11-2017, 06:58 PM #4768
I am no expert, but in this case I am going with rust. The mill marks are otherwise deep on these plates. I have one milled 45 with Some significant rust in some spots and the mill marks are obliterated in those spots. After a moderate clean up the result is similar to what you are looking at. Whoever refurbed your plates did a good job with them. Whether it is rust or just an unmilled section it does not matter. Enjoy the vintage iron.
I quote with pics. ()---() York Barbell Club #78 (DD) ()---()
My gym walk thru: https://forum.bodybuilding.com/showthread.php?p=1629553623#post1629553623
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11-11-2017, 08:50 PM #4769
- Join Date: Sep 2011
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, United States
- Age: 68
- Posts: 1,732
- Rep Power: 26355
And the most likely reason for the odd milling pattern is that the plates were not cast with perfectly flat backs. The portion with no milling marks formed a depression in the back. That is, that part of the back was lower than the milled parts. When the plate was milled to bring it within weight specs, only the high portions of the back were milled down. The low spot was untouched and is free of milling marks.
I do not the specific casting technique used by York, but I would venture to say that they used open molds. The mold has the pattern for the front and sides of the plate, and the molten metal is poured into the mold. The back is exposed to the air. Milling removes the uneven back surface, provided that the surface is relative flat, which is the usual case.O─O York Barbell Crew #53 O─O
─█────█─ Ivanko Barbell Crew #63 ─█────█─
─────────────────────────────────────────────────────────
My goal is to have so much equipment that I don't have room to workout. I am almost there. :)
──────────────────────────────────-───────────────────────
1st Meet Nov 2014 Push-Pull: 225 - 325 @ 194 Masters 59
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11-12-2017, 05:01 AM #4770
- Join Date: Dec 2010
- Location: Virginia, United States
- Age: 63
- Posts: 13,034
- Rep Power: 63386
From the 1976 York catalog, photos of the assembly line:
You need a good rack, a bench, and a 300-lb Olympic weight set. Now, what was your question?
My home gym: http://forum.bodybuilding.com/showthread.php?t=652376&p=1465291461&viewfull=1#post1465291461.
()---() York Barbell Club #1 (DD, RH, Kg) ()---() []---[] Equipment Crew #36 []---[] []---[] Ivanko Barbell Crew #51 []---[] [M]===[6] Mech6 Crew #29 [M]===[6] ~~ 4 Horsemen ~~
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