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  1. #3331
    ClosetBrah mezner09's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by bustermac View Post
    Guess we're not working on much in the winter.
    Worked on my Furnace. Waking up to a home that is 40 degrees is not fun. Never had to even look inside a furnace before, so this was all new to me. Here is what I did:

    1 - Removed Panels. Lights will blink an error code. Codes were on the back of the panel I took off.
    2 - Install new filter
    3 - took apart the exhaust piping to make sure there was no clogs. Back in college our landlord pulled out a squirrel that looked like a can.
    4 - turn the breaker/power off to reset the system
    5 - hit the reset button on the high limit switch (the one near the blower). If the system gets too hot, this will trigger and needs to be reset.
    6 - test the limit switch (right above the burners) to see if it's stuck open with a multi-meter.
    7 - Broke a breaker on accident, so had to go to an auto store pick up a 3 amp breaker.

    If I would have changed my air filter sooner, there wouldn't of been an issue. My limit switch needs to be replaced, because it keeps getting stuck open, even when my furnace hasn't been running for a while.
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  2. #3332
    Registered User ugottabjoshinme's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by bustermac View Post
    I've been doing indoor stuff too. Rebuilt all of the toilets in my house with parts kits...they all flush like a dream now.
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  3. #3333
    Nonregistered Nonuser bustermac's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by ugottabjoshinme View Post
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    Nope, Korky.

    Compared them with FM and liked Korky better. Easy install, so quiet, fills fast and made in USA.
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  4. #3334
    4doorsmorewhores SpeedCheeser's Avatar
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    Question about painting. For the baseboards, window sills, trim etc., is there any special process that's different from painting the walls? They're currently a typical high gloss white, and will be getting repainted with another high gloss paint, but it doesn't come as a paint/primer in one. So wondering if I need to lay down a primer first or if there's any other additional prep work that is necessary like sanding or anything.
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  5. #3335
    Anti-Circumcision JoshSP1985's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by SpeedCheeser View Post
    Question about painting. For the baseboards, window sills, trim etc., is there any special process that's different from painting the walls? They're currently a typical high gloss white, and will be getting repainted with another high gloss paint, but it doesn't come as a paint/primer in one. So wondering if I need to lay down a primer first or if there's any other additional prep work that is necessary like sanding or anything.
    Technically you're supposed to sand the gloss to matte then prime then paint (or a paint/primer combo).

    If you don't do anything and paint it will probably stick okay but if it gets knicked with something hard like a chair leg etc it will probably take off the top layer easily.
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  6. #3336
    4doorsmorewhores SpeedCheeser's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by JoshSP1985 View Post
    Technically you're supposed to sand the gloss to matte then prime then paint (or a paint/primer combo).

    If you don't do anything and paint it will probably stick okay but if it gets knicked with something hard like a chair leg etc it will probably take off the top layer easily.
    Thanks for the tips. I got done painting the walls and didn't even think about it and got ready to start trim, but the paint looked like it was sort of pooling on top and showing every single bristle in the stroke. That's when it clicked that duh, the high gloss stuff is meant to repel chit, of course I shouldn't expect it to go on as easily. I'll take the time and do it right.
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  7. #3337
    DIY Brah FL_Z32's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by SpeedCheeser View Post
    Question about painting. For the baseboards, window sills, trim etc., is there any special process that's different from painting the walls? They're currently a typical high gloss white, and will be getting repainted with another high gloss paint, but it doesn't come as a paint/primer in one. So wondering if I need to lay down a primer first or if there's any other additional prep work that is necessary like sanding or anything.

    I've always just painted over old trim and paint with no problem, including gloss/semi-gloss paints.
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  8. #3338
    Nonregistered Nonuser bustermac's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by FL_Z32 View Post
    I've always just painted over old trim and paint with no problem, including gloss/semi-gloss paints.
    Same here.
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  9. #3339
    4doorsmorewhores SpeedCheeser's Avatar
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    hmmmm, intredasting.
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  10. #3340
    Anti-Circumcision JoshSP1985's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by SpeedCheeser View Post
    hmmmm, intredasting.
    Like you said though if the paint is beading and streaking or whatever you need to do some prep. They're obviously painting over a different type of surface than you are. Also factory finished(painted) trim will be different than hand painted trim.
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  11. #3341
    4doorsmorewhores SpeedCheeser's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by JoshSP1985 View Post
    Like you said though if the paint is beading and streaking or whatever you need to do some prep. They're obviously painting over a different type of surface than you are. Also factory finished(painted) trim will be different than hand painted trim.
    This is true.

    It basically looked like the paint was sitting on the surface, like you spilled something on a nonporous surface, rather than absorbing in and looking wet like when you paint the walls, if that makes sense. Plus you could see the brush strokes pretty clearly in it.
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  12. #3342
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    For us northern brahs, I've been cleaning several of my customer's roofs off with snow. If anyone is looking for extra money and a good workout, most roofs take a couple of hours time, and i charge $40 an hour. I usually schedule 4 roof clearing jobs in a weekend. A quick and easy upsell ($25) is also clearing the sewer vents. Most of ours up here are completely ice covered. Clear the ice off the sewer pipe(s) and bring a couple of gallons of warm water up with you when you go to take the snow off, pour it down down the vent to clear any ice that has formed further down the pipe.
    Quick note, I have no problem declining roof jobs where the pitch of the roof is at a ridiculous angle. Your life isn't worth $80. Be sure to secure the ladder to the gutter, or have a spotter down below.
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  13. #3343
    Nonregistered Nonuser bustermac's Avatar
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    Sounds like a cheap way to die.


    These might come in handy for that.

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  14. #3344
    4doorsmorewhores SpeedCheeser's Avatar
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    I have a fluorescent light in my kitchen. It's about 5 years old at this point. I wasn't home, but the other day my gf said it simply went out at one point and wouldn't turn back on. It was during a giant wind storm, so checked all the breakers and none were tripped. Replaced the bulbs and still isn't coming back on. Am I correct in thinking that perhaps the ballast blew out and it's time to replace it?
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  15. #3345
    DIY Brah FL_Z32's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by SpeedCheeser View Post
    I have a fluorescent light in my kitchen. It's about 5 years old at this point. I wasn't home, but the other day my gf said it simply went out at one point and wouldn't turn back on. It was during a giant wind storm, so checked all the breakers and none were tripped. Replaced the bulbs and still isn't coming back on. Am I correct in thinking that perhaps the ballast blew out and it's time to replace it?
    Bad switch? Need a circuit tester to see if you're getting power to the fixture.

    But honestly, rip that florescent fixture out and put in some halogens/LEDs!
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  16. #3346
    4doorsmorewhores SpeedCheeser's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by FL_Z32 View Post
    Bad switch? Need a circuit tester to see if you're getting power to the fixture.

    But honestly, rip that florescent fixture out and put in some halogens/LEDs!
    Hmmm, I don't own a tester currently, but do you think it's likely a switch would just go out like that randomly? Entire house is 5 years old, not just the fixture, just to clear that part up.

    Actually, that's been the plan all along. I wanted to replace it with some LED track lighting probably, but when I did I was planning on moving the fluorescent to the garage anyway, since it's just a single bulb fixture out there now. Unfortunately, I don't have the replacement light picked out yet, and not having light in the kitchen blows. lol. May wind up having to just pick something and deal with it.
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    Originally Posted by SpeedCheeser View Post
    Hmmm, I don't own a tester currently, but do you think it's likely a switch would just go out like that randomly? Entire house is 5 years old, not just the fixture, just to clear that part up.

    Actually, that's been the plan all along. I wanted to replace it with some LED track lighting probably, but when I did I was planning on moving the fluorescent to the garage anyway, since it's just a single bulb fixture out there now. Unfortunately, I don't have the replacement light picked out yet, and not having light in the kitchen blows. lol. May wind up having to just pick something and deal with it.

    I've only had a switch fail on me once. Most likely, there is an issue with the actual light fixture. Use this as an opportunity to expedite your new lighting implementation ( :
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    Fuarkkk boyos need to replace furnace soon. Thing is 18 years old (prob close to 20 now). Gas bill was outrageous last month lol, and we keep it steady at 69-70 when we are home. Our house is 1200 sq ft and about 850-900 is heated.

    Any thoughts on the combo units? electric AC/gas heat? Getting tired of using a window AC in the summer.
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  19. #3349
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    Originally Posted by SpeedCheeser View Post
    Hmmm, I don't own a tester currently, but do you think it's likely a switch would just go out like that randomly? Entire house is 5 years old, not just the fixture, just to clear that part up.

    Actually, that's been the plan all along. I wanted to replace it with some LED track lighting probably, but when I did I was planning on moving the fluorescent to the garage anyway, since it's just a single bulb fixture out there now. Unfortunately, I don't have the replacement light picked out yet, and not having light in the kitchen blows. lol. May wind up having to just pick something and deal with it.
    Nah, get what you want put in now.

    Originally Posted by shanedawg View Post
    Fuarkkk boyos need to replace furnace soon. Thing is 18 years old (prob close to 20 now). Gas bill was outrageous last month lol, and we keep it steady at 69-70 when we are home. Our house is 1200 sq ft and about 850-900 is heated.

    Any thoughts on the combo units? electric AC/gas heat? Getting tired of using a window AC in the summer.
    Have you had it serviced or changed out the filter? What's your bill, insulated? Outside temp typically? 69-70 is the highest mine ever goes. Mines a bit chilly I suppose at 67-68, but you're kind of expected a high bill at 69-70 tbh. What do you turn it down to when you leave? I usually do 64-65. I also caulked around all the windows and sealed the doors up that I don't use, but it all helps.
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    Maximum Effort gixxer0.6g's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by shanedawg View Post
    Fuarkkk boyos need to replace furnace soon. Thing is 18 years old (prob close to 20 now). Gas bill was outrageous last month lol, and we keep it steady at 69-70 when we are home. Our house is 1200 sq ft and about 850-900 is heated.

    Any thoughts on the combo units? electric AC/gas heat? Getting tired of using a window AC in the summer.
    Pretty much what I do for a living. Let me know if you need some help

    The problem with going from heating only to heating and cooling is it requires a lot more air to cool and your ductwork might night be large enough. But if it is, I would do it. AC adds a lot of value to your house. But you're going to need a 220v circuit for your condensing unit and a way to get refrigerant pipe from your furnace to it.

    As far as the furnace goes, you're looking for it's efficiency rating. You want a 90+% furnace. It's a no brainer with the tax credits and how much you'll save on your gas bill over a standard 80%er

    Where do you live? You might look into a mini-split heat pump system. We're too cold for them but if you don't get below zero it might be a good option.
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    Originally Posted by Laddy451 View Post
    Most recent project

    "Start"
    [img]http://i662.photobucket.com/albums/uu350/ryanjones451/Mobile%20Uploads/20160311_124423.jpg[img]
    [img]http://i662.photobucket.com/albums/uu350/ryanjones451/Mobile%20Uploads/20160419_163342.jpeg[img]

    "During"
    [img]http://i662.photobucket.com/albums/uu350/ryanjones451/Mobile%20Uploads/20160423_135836.jpg[img]

    [img]http://i662.photobucket.com/albums/uu350/ryanjones451/Mobile%20Uploads/20160423_135900.jpg[img]
    [img]http://i662.photobucket.com/albums/uu350/ryanjones451/Mobile%20Uploads/20160428_213835.jpg[img]
    [img]http://i662.photobucket.com/albums/uu350/ryanjones451/Mobile%20Uploads/20160428_213846.jpg[img]
    Mirin chitter availability to room destruction ratio. Finished work looks good, how long did it take you to complete it all?
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    Originally Posted by Laddy451 View Post
    "Finished Product"


    wait does that door open?






    also, you might wanna use imgur for your embeds
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  25. #3355
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    Originally Posted by _zman View Post
    Nah, get what you want put in now.



    Have you had it serviced or changed out the filter? What's your bill, insulated? Outside temp typically? 69-70 is the highest mine ever goes. Mines a bit chilly I suppose at 67-68, but you're kind of expected a high bill at 69-70 tbh. What do you turn it down to when you leave? I usually do 64-65. I also caulked around all the windows and sealed the doors up that I don't use, but it all helps.
    IT was serviced 2 years ago when we moved in, and i change the filter every year (around december). Our bill was $257 lmao, it is insulated but i think alot of the cool air comes from the mudroom extension in the front of the house off of the living room. I think its poorly insulated. The basement is right below the living room as well and the windows are older and leaked. I filled them in with foam until I finish a few projects and can switch to block windows. I'm in the process of semi "finishing" the basement (no drywall just keeping the concrete walls) and when i do the ceiling im thinking about stuffing it with some insulation. Usually around 60-65 when we leave. I weather stripped the front door and caulked/foamed the new side window in the mudroon. Although we have one of those big 127 inch wide windows out front and it is old as hell and leaked so I temporarily filled every crack with foam and it helped alot. Prob gonna build a front porch and make it double doors when the funds allow.

    Originally Posted by gixxer0.6g View Post
    Pretty much what I do for a living. Let me know if you need some help

    The problem with going from heating only to heating and cooling is it requires a lot more air to cool and your ductwork might night be large enough. But if it is, I would do it. AC adds a lot of value to your house. But you're going to need a 220v circuit for your condensing unit and a way to get refrigerant pipe from your furnace to it.

    As far as the furnace goes, you're looking for it's efficiency rating. You want a 90+% furnace. It's a no brainer with the tax credits and how much you'll save on your gas bill over a standard 80%er

    Where do you live? You might look into a mini-split heat pump system. We're too cold for them but if you don't get below zero it might be a good option.
    I definitely will need help brah, thanks. Any recommended brands? I live in pittsburgh and we occasionally get below zero but not too often or over extended periods of times. A family friend is gonna give us a free quote so ill come back here with other questions.
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  26. #3356
    Registered User ugottabjoshinme's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by shanedawg View Post
    IT was serviced 2 years ago when we moved in, and i change the filter every year (around december). Our bill was $257 lmao, it is insulated but i think alot of the cool air comes from the mudroom extension in the front of the house off of the living room. I think its poorly insulated. The basement is right below the living room as well and the windows are older and leaked. I filled them in with foam until I finish a few projects and can switch to block windows. I'm in the process of semi "finishing" the basement (no drywall just keeping the concrete walls) and when i do the ceiling im thinking about stuffing it with some insulation. Usually around 60-65 when we leave. I weather stripped the front door and caulked/foamed the new side window in the mudroon. Although we have one of those big 127 inch wide windows out front and it is old as hell and leaked so I temporarily filled every crack with foam and it helped alot. Prob gonna build a front porch and make it double doors when the funds allow.



    I definitely will need help brah, thanks. Any recommended brands? I live in pittsburgh and we occasionally get below zero but not too often or over extended periods of times. A family friend is gonna give us a free quote so ill come back here with other questions.
    If your furnace filter is one of these, then you should change it every month or 2. Not once a year.

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  27. #3357
    Maximum Effort gixxer0.6g's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by shanedawg View Post
    I definitely will need help brah, thanks. Any recommended brands? I live in pittsburgh and we occasionally get below zero but not too often or over extended periods of times. A family friend is gonna give us a free quote so ill come back here with other questions.
    How hot does Pittsburgh get in the summer? I'll assume about our climate.

    1,000 sq ft @ min .7 cfm/sq ft = 700 cfm. 400 cfm/ton ~ 2 tons of cooling. They'll more than likely undersize your cooling to save some cash but I'd put in a 2 ton condensing unit and coil. At 800 cfm your duct main needs to be roughly a 14"x14" to handle the airflow.

    Just to give you an idea on price, here were my costs directly from a supplier when i bought mine.

    80mbh, 95% two stage furnance - $791
    Cooling coil - $333
    Condensing unit 13 SEER - $1,056

    These were for a 4 ton system, 1,600 cfm unit so your equipment costs should be even less. They'll rape you hard on labor and really it's not all that difficult to install if all the ductwork is in place. But a lot of contractors won't sell you the equipment unless they install it.
    Last edited by gixxer0.6g; 01-25-2017 at 07:00 AM.
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  28. #3358
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    Originally Posted by ugottabjoshinme View Post
    If your furnace filter is one of these, then you should change it every month or 2. Not once a year.

    This, even the 5 inch filters should be changed twice a year. If you have a ****ty fiberflass filter (can see through) change that monthly. Those pleated filters that are usually white can do 2-3 months
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    Originally Posted by Malfa View Post
    finally an update on the appraisal i had

    today I got a notice of my PMI being terminated. Woo hoo, it worked! I literally just bought 6 months ago and to have my PMI knocked off so quickly is unheard of.
    Tips on how you did it? I know for me my house value has raised roughly $30k without any of the work I have done. I am wondering if its enough.
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  30. #3360
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    Originally Posted by TsarChasm View Post
    Tips on how you did it? I know for me my house value has raised roughly $30k without any of the work I have done. I am wondering if its enough.
    contact your loan servicer (email or call) and ask what the options are to have your PMI removed.

    Often times they will tell you that you will need to have been paying on the loan for 2 years prior to them reviewing your case but as you can see I got extremely lucky and had mine knocked off in 6 months. It's worth a shot.
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