My recent builds

[irongrandpa]

This beautiful piece of craftsmanship showed up this week. Now, I'm working on the arm and mounting bracket. I plan to attach my mounting bracket on the rear crossmember of the rack so I can leave it attached and store it vertically when not in use. I hate anything that I have to set up and take down and tend not to use it as much.

I'll post more pictures when it's finished.

[AttyGuy]

Aren't sissys supposedly bad on the knees though?

Depends. Your knees or the sissy's?

[lemieux66c]

Dude. Which one, what size holes, spacing...

It's an older EliteFTS R3 - 2" spacing at the bottom of my rack where it would be mounted. And unless I measured wrong, the hole size is 3/4" but I have several attachments that are 5/8" that work perfectly fine (and I would ultimately mount it to something later down the road that is 5/8" anyway).

[Deep-Voiced-One]

Depends. Your knees or the sissy's?

Atty, my knees are healthy, but I heard the sissy's movement pattern were bad on the knees (although I can't confirm this from first hand experience with the sissy squat piece). Do you own/use one?

[Deep-Voiced-One]

This beautiful piece of craftsmanship showed up this week. Now, I'm working on the arm and mounting bracket. I plan to attach my mounting bracket on the rear crossmember of the rack so I can leave it attached and store it vertically when not in use. I hate anything that I have to set up and take down and tend not to use it as much.

I'll post more pictures when it's finished.

irongrandpa, congrats on the epic piece and good idea on planning to set it up to store it vertically and out of the way.

[AttyGuy]

Atty, my knees are healthy, but I heard the sissy's movement pattern were bad on the knees (although I can't confirm this from first hand experience with the sissy squat piece). Do you own/use one?

Dude, I think you missed what I was saying, which had nothing to do with a piece of equipment. Well, gym equipment.

[Deep-Voiced-One]

Dude, I think you missed what I was saying, which had nothing to do with a piece of equipment. Well, gym equipment.

I probably did I was drinking a lot at the time of that post lol.

[irongrandpa]

I got a bracket and arm put together for my new Canadian built belt squat attachment. I had to buy a piece of 2"x3" tubing for the arm, but had everything else I needed on hand. I'm going to use it a week or so before I clean it up and paint it in case I want/need to make any changes to it. The pivot uses bushings and a shaft with shaft collars. I went with bolt together on the short upright so it would be easy to adapt it to another rack that may have a different size rear cross member. I wanted it mounted at the back of the rack so it can be left attached in place and stored vertically when not in use as I don't like anything that requires setting up and taking down, I've learned from experience I end up not using it much if it requires more than loading plates or changing a cable attachment. Initial thoughts are , I like it and the kickstand set-up is excellent. I ordered a Spud belt squat belt that will arrive on Tuesday, as others mentioned, trying it with my dip belt wasn't very comfortable. There is just enough clearance for the weight horns to fit in between the uprights when stowing it. The safeties are in place in the pictures but as it 's a drop-in upright , remove easily for plate loading. I've never used a belt squat before so I'll be getting used to using it after the belt gets here. Also, it looks great in the rack with my Mech6 mono-hooks!

[gym62richard]

I got a bracket and arm put together for my new Canadian built belt squat attachment. I had to buy a piece of 2"x3" tubing for the arm, but had everything else I needed on hand. I'm going to use it a week or so before I clean it up and paint it in case I want/need to make any changes to it. The pivot uses bushings and a shaft with shaft collars. I went with bolt together on the short upright so it would be easy to adapt it to another rack that may have a different size rear cross member. I wanted it mounted at the back of the rack so it can be left attached in place and stored vertically when not in use as I don't like anything that requires setting up and taking down, I've learned from experience I end up not using it much if it requires more than loading plates or changing a cable attachment. Initial thoughts are , I like it and the kickstand set-up is excellent. I ordered a Spud belt squat belt that will arrive on Tuesday, as others mentioned, trying it with my dip belt wasn't very comfortable. There is just enough clearance for the weight horns to fit in between the uprights when stowing it. The safeties are in place in the pictures but as it 's a drop-in upright , remove easily for plate loading. I've never used a belt squat before so I'll be getting used to using it after the belt gets here. Also, it looks great in the rack with my Mech6 mono-hooks!

As always, top quality work from Mech, also great job with the bracket and arm.

[Mech6]

Thanks for posting the photos. I wanted to show others that while everyone is sending me rack/upright sizes, they might have overlooked that I can make a short (20") post and foot flange and they can anchor that somewhere else and use it to hook up the belt squat arm. Doesn't have to be on the rack as many people don't have the 5' of clear space in front or on the side of an upright. I don't, which is why mine will be on a seperate post, against a wall, anchored to the floor. Sort of like that sorinex low bridge, but without the width for multiple people. If you have a wooden platform, it's even easier as you can just screw it in there. Just be sure it's somewhere safe so you can't fall on it by mistake (after a squat accident for example).
Also cheaper than a rack attachment.

[zoom008]

Would that option allow it to be mounted to a rear cross member the way irongrandpa did?

[Mech6]

Would that option allow it to be mounted to a rear cross member the way irongrandpa did?

Sure. In your case I'd have a clamp on the bottom crossmember as I assume you don't want to drill holes. Is it 2x2, and how much clearance is underneath it (how high is it off the floor)?
I wouldn't recommend it if you were squatting facing the other way with it behind you. But assumine your monolifts stay on those uprights, it's not an issue.
And what's the inside width of your rack? Because the belt squat horns are 41-1/2" wide (with the end caps). ALthough I can make them shorter if needed, especially if you use iron plates, you don't need 16" long loading sleeves.
And, like above, you could tilt the whole thing up when not in use and store it vertical against that back wall.

[murphyreedus]

I'd be interested in something like grandpa's vs an upright attachment. I have a raised crossmember in the middle, not sure if that will interfere. My 2x3"middle crossmember is 16" out from the lower crossmember and 13" high at the top. Lower crossmember is 2x3" with 1/4" of clearance underneath. I don't mind adding holes, though.



the

[irongrandpa]

I'd be interested in something like grandpa's vs an upright attachment. I have a raised crossmember in the middle, not sure if that will interfere. My 2x3"middle crossmember is 16" out from the lower crossmember and 13" high at the top. Lower crossmember is 2x3" with 1/4" of clearance underneath. I don't mind adding holes, though.



the

I just unbolted my crossmember to drill it using the bracket as a guide. That middle crossmember will probably be too high if you mount the arm at the recommended 17.5" but isn't it only to dock a bench to? Our racks look nearly identically built and mine doesn't have that middle piece and is rock solid.

[Mech6]

I'd be interested in something like grandpa's vs an upright attachment. I have a raised crossmember in the middle, not sure if that will interfere. My 2x3"middle crossmember is 16" out from the lower crossmember and 13" high at the top. Lower crossmember is 2x3" with 1/4" of clearance underneath. I don't mind adding holes, though.

Is it really 1/4" underneath? Can you slide a 1/4" plate under there? I could make you something similar to Alex. He may pop in with a photo, otherwise I'll find one.
As irongrandpa says however, you'd have to move the post closer to avoid that other crossmember. But if you get close enough it will clear. I'd have to draw it out. Or can you just clamp to that one, behind it? I'm assuming you don't train where you can fall back on that thing.
Or just anchor into the floor somwhere in the middle between them?

[Za78]

Has anyone shot a video yet of the belt squat in use?

[TunaGill]

Thanks for posting the photos. I wanted to show others that while everyone is sending me rack/upright sizes, they might have overlooked that I can make a short (20") post and foot flange and they can anchor that somewhere else and use it to hook up the belt squat arm. Doesn't have to be on the rack as many people don't have the 5' of clear space in front or on the side of an upright. I don't, which is why mine will be on a seperate post, against a wall, anchored to the floor. Sort of like that sorinex low bridge, but without the width for multiple people.

Here is the post I made of the rack you made for me: https://forum.bodybuilding.com/showt...9236463&page=1

Which method do you think would work best for the belt squat? On the side?

[murphyreedus]

That middle crossmember will probably be too high if you mount the arm at the recommended 17.5" but isn't it only to dock a bench to? Our racks look nearly identically built and mine doesn't have that middle piece and is rock solid.

Never tried removing it since it's a convenient step up for the pull up bar. I'll have to try taking it out and see if I notice any difference. Guessing not.

How far back is your lower crossmember from the front of the uprights? I'm wondering how easy it is to load plates. It looks like the supports between the uprights on your rack are lower than the ones on mine as well.

Is it really 1/4" underneath? Can you slide a 1/4" plate under there? I could make you something similar to Alex. He may pop in with a photo, otherwise I'll find one.
As irongrandpa says however, you'd have to move the post closer to avoid that other crossmember. But if you get close enough it will clear. I'd have to draw it out. Or can you just clamp to that one, behind it? I'm assuming you don't train where you can fall back on that thing.
Or just anchor into the floor somwhere in the middle between them?

I said 1/4", but meant 1/2". After checking, 7/16" is safer. A 1/2" plate will slide under most but not all of the crossmember. Either there's a slight bow or there's a high spot on the floor.

[Mech6]

Here is the post I made of the rack you made for me: https://forum.bodybuilding.com/showt...9236463&page=1

Which method do you think would work best for the belt squat? On the side?

Anywhere you have the space. I'd have it off against a wall somewhere, out of the way. The "mount to a rack" idea was only when people were using jammer arms. When you're also getting a seperate arm and pivot mount, you can treat it as a standalone. Why mount it to a rack?

[dragon360]

Thanks for posting the photos. I wanted to show others that while everyone is sending me rack/upright sizes, they might have overlooked that I can make a short (20") post and foot flange and they can anchor that somewhere else and use it to hook up the belt squat arm. Doesn't have to be on the rack as many people don't have the 5' of clear space in front or on the side of an upright. I don't, which is why mine will be on a seperate post, against a wall, anchored to the floor. Sort of like that sorinex low bridge, but without the width for multiple people. If you have a wooden platform, it's even easier as you can just screw it in there. Just be sure it's somewhere safe so you can't fall on it by mistake (after a squat accident for example).
Also cheaper than a rack attachment.

Having both options for me would be awesome (stand alone and able to go on the rack upright) as I am always moving things around and this would give more options.

[zoom008]

Sure. In your case I'd have a clamp on the bottom crossmember as I assume you don't want to drill holes. Is it 2x2, and how much clearance is underneath it (how high is it off the floor)?
I wouldn't recommend it if you were squatting facing the other way with it behind you. But assumine your monolifts stay on those uprights, it's not an issue.
And what's the inside width of your rack? Because the belt squat horns are 41-1/2" wide (with the end caps). ALthough I can make them shorter if needed, especially if you use iron plates, you don't need 16" long loading sleeves.
And, like above, you could tilt the whole thing up when not in use and store it vertical against that back wall.

If it can be done without drilling hole I'd prefer that.

The cross member is 2x3 and it's 5 1/4" off the ground.

Inside width is 43" ( I'd be ok with them being a bit shorter)

And there's 23" from the rear cross member to the front of the middle upright post

[C123C]

If it's mounted to the wall does it also need to be bolted into the floor? I'd be bolting to wooden residential stud.

When wall mounted can it stand up for storage?

Maybe something like Rogue's strip? https://www.roguefitness.com/the-strip-black

I don't mind using it on my rack as long as I can move it but if I need to stow it somewhere up against a wall maybe I should just create a station there anyway. As open floor space is precious the ability to stand it up for storage and easily remove it if necessary would make a lot of sense.

[Mech6]

If it's mounted to the wall does it also need to be bolted into the floor? I'd be bolting to wooden residential stud.

When wall mounted can it stand up for storage?

Maybe something like Rogue's strip? https://www.roguefitness.com/the-strip-black

I don't mind using it on my rack as long as I can move it but if I need to stow it somewhere up against a wall maybe I should just create a station there anyway. As open floor space is precious the ability to stand it up for storage and easily remove it if necessary would make a lot of sense.

Sorry, I meant near a wall, not necessarily on it. It has to support up to 400lbs (assuming you load 1000lbs to get a 600lbs belt squat. Not sure people will go that high), so I'd rather have it in the floor.

What I would do is a short 18" post with the pivot shaft on top. Anchored to floor, about 8" away from a wall. Then, when not in use, the whole thing (arm+belt squat) can be tilted up and stored vertically, leaning against that wall. Put a rubber/plywood strip where it contacts if you want to protect drywall...

[irongrandpa]

Sorry, I meant near a wall, not necessarily on it. It has to support up to 400lbs (assuming you load 1000lbs to get a 600lbs belt squat. Not sure people will go that high), so I'd rather have it in the floor.

What I would do is a short 18" post with the pivot shaft on top. Anchored to floor, about 8" away from a wall. Then, when not in use, the whole thing (arm+belt squat) can be tilted up and stored vertically, leaning against that wall. Put a rubber/plywood strip where it contacts if you want to protect drywall...

If I had open wall space I would have gone this route. I would've made my post L shaped , attach at the floor and attach to the wall at the top.

Murphy, I'll check the diminsions you asked about.

[Mech6]

Sorry, I meant near a wall, not necessarily on it. It has to support up to 400lbs (assuming you load 1000lbs to get a 600lbs belt squat. Not sure people will go that high), so I'd rather have it in the floor.

What I would do is a short 18" post with the pivot shaft on top. Anchored to floor, about 8" away from a wall. Then, when not in use, the whole thing (arm+belt squat) can be tilted up and stored vertically, leaning against that wall. Put a rubber/plywood strip where it contacts if you want to protect drywall...

Here's a crude sketch to illustrate.

[C123C]

Here's a crude sketch to illustrate.

1) You should see what I refer to as a crude sketch...breaking out my Crayola 64 box now. Hold my beer.

2) I like this idea especially space saving storage. Seems like the arm could be transferred to a rack post too if that was desired as setup seems identical with just an anchored vertical 3x3 shaft (sounds dirty).

3) Could this be anchored through a stall mat into concrete like a lot of people have done with their racks as opposed to cutting out a section of rubber? Or not sturdy enough for the direct load on the post? Something like this hardware? https://www.roguefitness.com/rogue-hd-concrete-anchors

[Mech6]

2) I like this idea especially space saving storage. Seems like the arm could be transferred to a rack post too if that was desired as setup seems identical with just an anchored vertical 3x3 shaft (sounds dirty).

3) Could this be anchored through a stall mat into concrete like a lot of people have done with their racks as opposed to cutting out a section of rubber? Or not sturdy enough for the direct load on the post? Something like this hardware? https://www.roguefitness.com/rogue-hd-concrete-anchors

2) You'd need something between the upright and the arm as it's a bit more involved than just a pin, but yes, the arm would stay the same and you'd need a rack adapter.
3) Yes. Most of the load is going to be vertical into the floor but it's not thousands of pounds. 60% of whatever you load on the attachment. Not anything a stall mat can't handle.

[irongrandpa]

Here's a picture of my set up in the stored position. My 2"x3" arm is heavier than needed but the local steel company wanted $36 for 4' of 1/8" 2"x3", a buddy that has a shop sold me a 4' piece of 1/4" 2"x3" for $20. Again, I'll clean it up and paint after I'm sure I don't want to change anything. Belt arrives tomorrow.

Murphyreedus, the distance from the front edge of the rear cross member to the front edge of the middle upright is 22". The top of the supports between the uprights is 11". With the attachment at the recommended distance from the pivot the upright was in the way of easily loading 45"s by 1". I moved the attachment forward and put the hitch pin in the next hole back and loading plates is not a problem now. That puts the back of Mech's attachment at 30 1/8" instead of the recommended 27 1/8".

[Mech6]

So, 2 free tips:
1. If warming up with box jumps on a plywood box, still pad that corner.
2. If you mess up and destroy your shin on said unpaded corner, use this recipe: witch hazel, paper towel, plastic wrap, masking tape. Create bandage. Proceed to train squats. Then marvel at was has been unleashed when you remove the "bandage" an hour later. It's like a horror movie.

[thejosef]

So, 2 free tips:
1. If warming up with box jumps on a plywood box, still pad that corner.
2. If you mess up and destroy your shin on said unpaded corner, use this recipe: witch hazel, paper towel, plastic wrap, masking tape. Create bandage. Proceed to train squats. Then marvel at was has been unleashed when you remove the "bandage" an hour later. It's like a horror movie.

You guys can call me a girl or whatever, but my Vulcan soft plyo box was once of my smartest purchases. Fail and you just laugh it off, instead of cry.

Hope you get a cool looking scar, at least.