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  1. #31
    Registered Operator chevy72blu's Avatar
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    03 Jetta 2.0 (NA). 120k miles.

    Code P0321 (engine speed sensor). Vehicle had a bit of rough idle and occasionally hard started. Eventually died while driving.

    Replaced the crank pos. sensor and it will still not fire. Now the EPC light is on, along with the original code. Been trying to figure it out for a week.
    Last edited by chevy72blu; 08-27-2013 at 07:04 AM.
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  2. #32
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    Originally Posted by 1twiztidprick View Post
    Could you give me the AllData diag procedure for steering slop on a 91 Camaro? I'm familiar with that software from previous jobs.

    How-to bleed power steering



    exploded view front susp.



    exploded view power steering gear



    susp. steering link check





    should get you going bro
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  3. #33
    Walmart Aluminum Account arkansawboy's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by chevy72blu View Post
    03 Jetta 2.0 (NA). 120k miles.

    Code P0321 (engine speed sensor). Vehicle had a bit of rough idle and occasionally hard started. Eventually died while driving.

    Replaced the crank pos. sensor and it will still not fire. Now the EPC light is on, along with the original code. Been trying to figure it out for a week.
    Think I have a good lead... Out of 34 reported issues, 24 were reported FIXED after replacing the Engine Speed Sensor. THe crankshaft position sensor (which you've already replaced) was 2nd on the list of fixes with 6. Look into replacing the Engine Speed Sensor

    EDIT: found another link with 60+ fixes being the ESS or ESS wiring. Seems to be a very common problem.


    Vehicle Application: 2003 Beetle 2.0 2003 Passat 2.8
    2003 Jetta 2.0

    Customer Concern: Complaint of loss of power while driving. Codes P0321 and P0322.
    Average Reported Mileage: 102837
    Tests/Procedures: 1. Using a Digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM), measure the Alternating Current (AC) output voltage of the G28 engine RPM sensor between the Brown and the White wires (sensor can remain plugged into the harness or be unplugged for this test. If testing unplugged, be sure to probe the sensor side of the harness).

    A. At normal engine cranking speed, a minimum of 800mV AC must be present at the sensor (preferred voltage is 1.5 to 2.5 volts AC at cranking speed).

    2. Check the wiring from the sensor to the PCM pins 90 (Brown wire) and 82 (White wire) for an open, shorted or excessive resistance condition.

    3. Sensor AC output voltage below 800mV AC indicates a faulty sensor if all wiring checks are normal.

    Author: Dave Tidaback
    Technician Biography
    Dave Tidaback Dave began his automotive career in 1975. His experience includes Audi, BMW and VW. He has had 9 years of independent shop experience, mostly on BMW, Volvo, VW, Nissan, and Toyota, and 12 years of dealership experience, primarily BMW. Dave served as Service Manager at one independent shop, and assistant Service Manager at a BMW dealership. Dave is certified BMW Master, Volvo Certified Tech, and ASE Master and L1. He is BMW team leader/lead diagnostician, and has had 11+ years at Identifix. Dave's qualifications include: certified BMW Master, Volvo Engine & Fuel Injection, and Bosch BSC 1, 5. As far as his outside automotive activities go, he says it's all he can do to keep the family's vehicles running properly. For hobbies, he enjoys bicycling, camping, kayaking, and growing orchids. Dave originally was in the field of biomedical research - quite a jump to fixing cars!

    Diagnostic Codes

    P0321
    P0322
    Potential Causes With OEM Direct diagrams, components, TSBs, and R&R procedures

    G28 Engine Speed Sensor


    Confirmed Fix Summary - With OEM Direct diagrams, components, TSBs, and R&R procedures (can give you diagrams if neccessary)

    Confirmed Fixes
    24 - G28 Engine Speed Sensor

    6 - Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor

    1 - Fuel Pump

    1 - Fuel Pump, G28 Engine Speed Sensor

    1 - G28 Engine Speed Sensor Wiring

    1 - Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor, Fuel Pump Relay J17
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  4. #34
    Registered Operator chevy72blu's Avatar
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    mind=blown. Is engine speed senor code word for cam position sensor? I was always under the impression that engine speed sensor = crank pos. (pre OBD mechanic brah).

    Repped hard. Will try

    edit: Other sources confirm the crank position sensor as ESS. I'll check the wiring
    Last edited by chevy72blu; 08-27-2013 at 09:15 AM.
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  5. #35
    Walmart Aluminum Account arkansawboy's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by chevy72blu View Post
    mind=blown. Is engine speed senor code word for cam position sensor? I was always under the impression that engine speed sensor = crank pos. (pre OBD mechanic brah).

    Repped hard. Will try
    from what i can tell based on the fixes they are seperate.

    ill check the diagrams and see
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  6. #36
    Registered User GetBigyo's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by arkansawboy View Post
    Sounds like a problem with the clutch or driver

    Ill search it and see if thats a problem area for that make/model
    Any advice on my 2nd problem?

    04 TSX 93K miles here.

    Car has original clutch except previous owner replaced master slave cylinder, I believe. My car drives fine. No slippage except two things:

    1) Random days, my clutch will make that "squeaky door cringing" sound, but other days it wont. Could it be temperature?
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  7. #37
    Walmart Aluminum Account arkansawboy's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by GetBigyo View Post
    Any advice on my 2nd problem?
    Sorry bro totally forgot

    Just ran symptoms through Indentifix.

    Not one single hit. Not your vehicle or similar engine/transmission combinations of other years.

    If its not affecting performance, and is intermittent I wouldn't worry too much.

    Wish I could help
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  8. #38
    The equalizer of equality Uncle-Phil's Avatar
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    2005 chevy colorado, crew cab.

    -Leaks water when it rains into passenger side carpet on the floor. Don't know where it comes from.

    Repped, OP. nice thread.
    Navy vet brah 02-11
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  9. #39
    CamaroBrah 1twiztidprick's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by arkansawboy View Post
    How-to bleed power steering

    [img]http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb447/arkansawboy/powersteeringbled.gif[img]

    exploded view front susp.

    [img]http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb447/arkansawboy/frontSUsp.gif[img]

    exploded view power steering gear

    [img]http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb447/arkansawboy/psgear.gif[img]

    susp. steering link check

    [img]http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb447/arkansawboy/SuspSteerLinkCheck.gif[img]



    should get you going bro
    Wish I could rep you again. Thanks that should definitely help me out.
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  10. #40
    EastSide Church Boi flexnation's Avatar
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    Great thread idea, i expect to see OP's reps skyrocket with this thread. Ill be back when something goes wrong with my car.
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  11. #41
    Registered User nickyoobatz's Avatar
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    OP, I have a 98 Nissan 240SX.

    I've had this "clicking" noise coming from under the car, it only comes on accel/decel as SOON as I step on or let off the gas. Sounds like its coming from the back of the car. Nothing ever came of it so I never really bothered with it, but I'm curious as to what it is. I'm assuming the drive shaft yoke is bad/worn?

    Good thread also. Repped.
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  12. #42
    Cable flies hnnngggg LiftDrive's Avatar
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    Got the code E0456 on my 2004 mitsu eclipse. It says it's a small evaporative emissions leak. Wat do?
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    Walmart Aluminum Account arkansawboy's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by Uncle-Phil View Post
    2005 chevy colorado, crew cab.

    -Leaks water when it rains into passenger side carpet on the floor. Don't know where it comes from.


    Repped, OP. nice thread.
    Nothing on my software or google..

    Simple test is to make sure the windows are rolled up and start spraying your water hose around the window and all the rubber seals.

    Should be able to see where the leak is if it is of significant size.


    Originally Posted by nickyoobatz View Post
    OP, I have a 98 Nissan 240SX.

    I've had this "clicking" noise coming from under the car, it only comes on accel/decel as SOON as I step on or let off the gas. Sounds like its coming from the back of the car. Nothing ever came of it so I never really bothered with it, but I'm curious as to what it is. I'm assuming the drive shaft yoke is bad/worn?

    Good thread also. Repped.
    only thing i found brah.. some things you could check though.

    http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/s1...eleration.html

    Originally Posted by Post 6 - Mirage
    3 different ticking sounds that my car has made:

    1-header leak: header gaskets need to be replaced ($20) make sure you use anti seize on bolts durring reassembly.

    2-Lifters ticking due to low oil: check oil level or change it if you havnt just done this.

    3-Injector leak: Look and smell around the injectors to see if the seals are leaking.
    __________________
    1990 240sx Coupe (RB20DET and some other goodies)
    Also is CEL on?

    Originally Posted by LiftDrive View Post
    Got the code E0456 on my 2004 mitsu eclipse. It says it's a small evaporative emissions leak. Wat do?
    gts or spyder or spyder gts?

    2.4 or 3.0L?
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  14. #44
    Cable flies hnnngggg LiftDrive's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by arkansawboy View Post


    gts or spyder or spyder gts?

    2.4 or 3.0L?
    It's a GT. 3.0L
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  15. #45
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    Originally Posted by GetBigyo View Post
    Any advice on my 2nd problem?
    Dude my truck was doing the exact same thing, look up under at your clutch pedal, make sure your clutch safety switch is rotated into the right position. I somehow kicked mine out of position and it would rub periodically giving me that squeeky door sound your describing.

    You can spray some lube on the push rod as well, that might solve your issue.
    I might not be smarter than a 5th grader, but I can push one down the stairs and call it an accident.

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    Cable flies hnnngggg LiftDrive's Avatar
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    Please respond
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    Will rep again on spread for an ECM diagram or 02 sensor wire replacement procedure on my 91 Camaro. TBI 305. Or just a trouble tree for code 13. Replaced the damn thing and it tests good on my meter but it still throws a no signal code so I guess I got a break in the wire somewhere. My wallet will thank you, lost about half my MPG from not hitting closed loop.
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  18. #48
    Registered User d.nguyen's Avatar
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    1991 Acura NSX

    TCS Light.

    Jumped the wire for the code. Got a 3-1 TCS Code. Got nothing for CEL.
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    Walmart Aluminum Account arkansawboy's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by LiftDrive View Post
    Please respond
    i know it says im logged on most of the time (got a window minimized most of the time)

    but we've been swamped as hell after the labor day weekend.

    I'll get you next, couldnt find anything on my different software accounts. WIll do some googlin'

    Originally Posted by 1twiztidprick View Post
    Will rep again on spread for an ECM diagram or 02 sensor wire replacement procedure on my 91 Camaro. TBI 305. Or just a trouble tree for code 13. Replaced the damn thing and it tests good on my meter but it still throws a no signal code so I guess I got a break in the wire somewhere. My wallet will thank you, lost about half my MPG from not hitting closed loop.
    Slammed AF at the shop, Will get you tomorrow but def. by monday.

    Originally Posted by d.nguyen View Post
    1991 Acura NSX

    TCS Light.

    Jumped the wire for the code. Got a 3-1 TCS Code. Got nothing for CEL.
    Monday bruh.
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  20. #50
    Walmart Aluminum Account arkansawboy's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by LiftDrive View Post
    Please respond
    out of 35 reported fixes, here are the conclusions:

    15 - Fuel Filler Cap
    7 - Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Canister Vent Solenoid/Valve
    3 - Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Canister Purge Solenoid/Valve
    2 - Fuel Filler Neck
    2 - Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Hose(s)/Line(s)
    1 - Charcoal Canister Vent Solenoid
    1 - Fuel Pump O-Ring
    1 - Fuel Tank Hose
    1 - Filler Neck
    1 - Air Conditioning (A/C) Low Pressure Line/Hose
    1 - Vacuum Hose/Line(s)


    I'd obviously check your gas cap first. if its broken or cracked it'll throw a code. replace it, and get autozone to reset that light, and you should be good.
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    Originally Posted by 1twiztidprick View Post
    Will rep again on spread for an ECM diagram or 02 sensor wire replacement procedure on my 91 Camaro. TBI 305. Or just a trouble tree for code 13. Replaced the damn thing and it tests good on my meter but it still throws a no signal code so I guess I got a break in the wire somewhere. My wallet will thank you, lost about half my MPG from not hitting closed loop.
    ECM DIAGRAM. might have to save and zoom it.



    o2 sensor replacement



    The oxygen sensor is located in the exhaust system. The sensor monitors atmospheric air versus exhaust gas oxygen content to produce a voltage output. This voltage ranges from approximately 0.1 volt (high oxygen - lean mixture) to 0.9 volt (low oxygen - rich mixture). By monitoring the oxygen sensor output voltage, the computer can determine the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gas and adjust the air/fuel mixture accordingly.

    The oxygen sensor has a permanently attached wire and connector. This should not be removed, since the removal will affect proper operation of the oxygen sensor. 1. Disconnect electrical connector from oxygen sensor. 2. Using a suitable oxygen sensor wrench, carefully remove the sensor from exhaust manifold or pipe. The oxygen sensor may be difficult to remove when engine temperature is below 120°F. CAUTION: Excessive force may damage threads in exhaust manifold or pipe. 3. If a new sensor is being used, install the new sensor into the manifold or pipe. 4. If an old sensor is being reused, coat threads with anti-seize compound, then install the sensor into the manifold or pipe. 5. Torque the oxygen sensor to specifications, then reconnect the electrical connector. See Specifications/Mechanical for sensor torque value.






    CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION:The Electronic Control Module (ECM) supplies a voltage of about 0.45 volt between terminals "GE14" and "GE15". (If measured with a 10 megohm digital voltmeter, this may read as low as 0.32 volt.) The O2 sensor varies the voltage within a range of about 1 volt if the exhaust is rich, down through about 0.10 volt if exhaust is lean. The sensor is like an open circuit and produces no voltage when it is below 316~C (600~F). An open sensor circuit or cold sensor causes "Open Loop" operation.NOTE: Because of all the possible color code combinations used on electrical wiring diagrams, always refer to SCHEMATIC DIAGRAMS/ELECTRICAL AND ELECTRONIC WIRING DIAGRAMS/ECM CONNECTOR IDENTIFICATION for correct color code identification of circuit.TEST DESCRIPTION: Numbers below refer to circled numbers on the diagnostic chart. 1. Code 13 will set: - Engine at normal operating temperature 70~c (158~F). - At least 2 minutes engine time after start. - 02 signal voltage steady between 0.35 and 0.55 volt. - Throttle position sensor signal above 5%. - All conditions must be met for about 60 seconds. If the conditions for a code 13 exist the system will not go "Closed Loop". 2. This will determine if the sensor is at fault or the wiring or ECM is the cause of the Code 13. 3. In doing this test use only a high impedance digital volt ohm meter. This test checks the continuity of CKTs 412 and 413 because if CKT 413 is open the ECM voltage on CKT 412 will be over 0.6 volt (600 mV).DIAGNOSTIC AIDS:Normal "Scan" voltage varies between 100 mV to 999 mV (0.1 and 1.0 volt) while in "Closed Loop". Code 13 sets in one minute if voltage remains between 0.35 and 0.55 volt, but the system will go "Open Loop" in about 15 seconds. Refer to TESTING PROCEDURES/DIAGNOSIS BY SYMPTOM/INTERMITTENTS..
    Last edited by arkansawboy; 09-10-2013 at 12:35 PM.
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    it's now wednesday. Plz halp
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    09 volvo s40 2.4i, 120k mi

    when i let off the gas and the car is slowing down on its own, it will get "stuck" going from second to first gear or first to neutral (not sure which), like it will kind of hover between the two and the car will shudder a bit, then it drops into first or neutral and all is well. its the transition between gears that gets a little iffy, happens sometimes on sharp acceleration like when im merging onto the highway.

    reps for any advice brahs. if i have to buy a new tranny im gonna cry
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    Originally Posted by arkansawboy View Post
    from what i can tell based on the fixes they are seperate.

    ill check the diagrams and see
    I'm an auto repair tech going on 11 years now. I believe that the engine speed sensor is the crankshaft position sensor on the VWs. The best way to tell for sure is to look at the wiring diagrams and component location diagrams. I'm not at work, or I would check. I will add my 10+ years of auto repair experience to this thread. I specifically specialize in engine performance and electrical systems diagnostics.
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    Originally Posted by 1twiztidprick View Post
    Will rep again on spread for an ECM diagram or 02 sensor wire replacement procedure on my 91 Camaro. TBI 305. Or just a trouble tree for code 13. Replaced the damn thing and it tests good on my meter but it still throws a no signal code so I guess I got a break in the wire somewhere. My wallet will thank you, lost about half my MPG from not hitting closed loop.
    Do you have and know how to use a DVOM? With the key on and engine off the oxygen sensor circuit should be 450mV with the sensor disconnected (if the wiring to the ECM and the ECM itself are working).
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    Originally Posted by arkansawboy View Post
    out of 35 reported fixes, here are the conclusions:

    15 - Fuel Filler Cap
    7 - Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Canister Vent Solenoid/Valve
    3 - Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Canister Purge Solenoid/Valve
    2 - Fuel Filler Neck
    2 - Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Hose(s)/Line(s)
    1 - Charcoal Canister Vent Solenoid
    1 - Fuel Pump O-Ring
    1 - Fuel Tank Hose
    1 - Filler Neck
    1 - Air Conditioning (A/C) Low Pressure Line/Hose
    1 - Vacuum Hose/Line(s)


    I'd obviously check your gas cap first. if its broken or cracked it'll throw a code. replace it, and get autozone to reset that light, and you should be good.
    Thanks brah
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    Originally Posted by Ted Nugent View Post
    09 volvo s40 2.4i, 120k mi

    when i let off the gas and the car is slowing down on its own, it will get "stuck" going from second to first gear or first to neutral (not sure which), like it will kind of hover between the two and the car will shudder a bit, then it drops into first or neutral and all is well. its the transition between gears that gets a little iffy, happens sometimes on sharp acceleration like when im merging onto the highway.

    reps for any advice brahs. if i have to buy a new tranny im gonna cry
    When was the last time transmission was serviced? Filter included.
    It sounds like an apply/release issue within the trans, if it's not a solenoid concern the transmission won't signal a DTC most of the time. You could have a broken holding or freewheeling component or burnt components and the trans won't flag a code for those. It all depends what your willing to spend, looking at Mitchell it may be salvageable but you're going to have to put some money into a rebuild. At least it's still shifting and nothing has let go yet. Which would mean new transmission. Check your fluid level though and service the thing.
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    Thanks for doing this

    It is good to see someone else with a auto repair shop treating people right! I have so many people come by my shop talking about how other places have ripped them off in the past and it just gives the whole industry a bad name. I bought the business 5 years ago spent thousands on marketing and paid to have a website built, https://www.perrymansalignment.com/ , all in an effort to get past the previous owners horrible customer service. We offer free diagnosis on all vehicles so I appreciate what you are doing here to help out the broader audience.
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    My advise to the Misc would be to make sure you have a good battery, and the terminals to that battery are clean and tight. Especially on newer vehicles. Even though the vehicle will start and run fine, a weak battery or bad terminals will cause issues that will trigger other issues, such as so often bad alternators are caused by being burned out by trying to charge a battery on the way out. Bad grounds or no poor connections will cause electronics to burn out. Most of all, false readings. Probably the first step to any diagnostic process is to make sure you have a good power source (battery).

    Originally Posted by SwimProWILM View Post
    It is good to see someone else with a auto repair shop treating people right! I have so many people come by my shop talking about how other places have ripped them off in the past and it just gives the whole industry a bad name. I bought the business 5 years ago spent thousands on marketing and paid to have a website built, https://www.perrymansalignment.com/ , all in an effort to get past the previous owners horrible customer service. We offer free diagnosis on all vehicles so I appreciate what you are doing here to help out the broader audience.
    So you will pull a car in, spend time on it diagnosing the issue, and only charge for the labor to replace the part? What if they decline, do they leave without paying you a penny? If so, how do you do it and more importantly, why? Do you stop working on a paying customer's car to help someone who is just going to take it to "their mechanic"? If you are a competent tech, you have plenty of work so why do anything for free. I know society thinks we should be some voluntary servants who just like to hang out and work on cars because we don't have anything better to do, but like everyone else, I need to make a living. I'm not going to work, to get work. If it comes to that, I will do something else. I'm more honest than most, BUT I do not work for free.
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    Originally Posted by thirdeye82 View Post
    I'm an auto repair tech going on 11 years now. I believe that the engine speed sensor is the crankshaft position sensor on the VWs. The best way to tell for sure is to look at the wiring diagrams and component location diagrams. I'm not at work, or I would check. I will add my 10+ years of auto repair experience to this thread. I specifically specialize in engine performance and electrical systems diagnostics.
    Same here. I've owned an automotive shop for the last 7 years. Engine speed sensor = crankshaft position sensor. VWs have a **** design where the sensor sits right where engine oil leaks end up. Majority of the time, oil will pool in the connector and cause false DTCs for the engine speed sensor being bad. My suggestion is to clean the connector when replacing the sensor and put a little dielectric grease to make a seal against liquids getting in there. Also check the resistance of the sensor before replacing the make sure you have power/ground/signal on the harness side.

    OPs identifix advice is solid but I doubt 90% of the general public can run those tests/have bi-directional scan tool access/understand what you're saying. Identifix is a great tool if you have access to dealer like/level tools. Just for example, I have a Tech 2 (GM & Saab), Autel Maxisys Elite, Xentry c4 (Mercedes), VAG (Audi), Icom next (BMW) and several other tools & subscriptions to help diagnose and flash modules. Sometimes that's not enough to run the tests that Identifix shows you how to run.

    Good luck and I'll pop in here and help out when I can/remember.
    Last edited by WRXbrah; 07-25-2020 at 04:59 PM.
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