Mustang Crew

[Jasonw1178]

Another alternative is to get tire chains. They are made for pretty much any tire/wheel you can imagine and they make a huge difference in snow/ice traction. Of course there are the big heavy type but some are cable type, less effective but cheap, easy to put on once you get the hang of it, and cheaper than getting snow tires and swapping on and off.

[RobParks2M]

Another alternative is to get tire chains. They are made for pretty much any tire/wheel you can imagine and they make a huge difference in snow/ice traction. Of course there are the big heavy type but some are cable type, less effective but cheap, easy to put on once you get the hang of it, and cheaper than getting snow tires and swapping on and off.

IMO auto socks would probably be easier to keep around and work just as well. Look into those before chains unless you are expecting to use them a lot. Chains could mess up your plastics depending on how snug they are to the tires and overall clearance in the wheel well.

[FreedomPenguin]

IMO auto socks would probably be easier to keep around and work just as well. Look into those before chains unless you are expecting to use them a lot. Chains could mess up your plastics depending on how snug they are to the tires and overall clearance in the wheel well.

A lot of studless tires are pretty damn comparable to chains, i'd look into studs before i ever looked at chains but i prefer studless over both. Just have to get high quality winter tires. I wouldn't get chains due to noise, and possible damage to the car if came undone or lose or just the hassle of chaining it.

[RobParks2M]

A lot of studless tires are pretty damn comparable to chains, i'd look into studs before i ever looked at chains but i prefer studless over both. Just have to get high quality winter tires. I wouldn't get chains due to noise, and possible damage to the car if came undone or lose or just the hassle of chaining it.

waaat. I doubt there are any studless tires comparable to chains when you are on icy roads. I would never do studded tires particularly because most states ban them. but like I was saying the autosocks are a super easy alternative to tire chains. I've never had to use them so I don't know how well they work though.

[StinnerOzz]

My toy, show car, magazine feature car, garage ornament:

[cgc]

Alright...
So the front and back bumpers, in spite of taking care of the paint (it's outside 24x7) are starting to experience some bad fading\clear failure. I'm not in the position to paint the whole car so I'm concidering doing a wrap on it. I've been doing a crap load of research on this and outside of a couple of areas, I'm pretty confident I can pull it off.
Anyone else have any experience?

Also, who do I actually have to kill to get Steve from Tasca Ford to reply to a PM or e-mail?

[ssg10587]

Alright...
So the front and back bumpers, in spite of taking care of the paint (it's outside 24x7) are starting to experience some bad fading\clear failure. I'm not in the position to paint the whole car so I'm concidering doing a wrap on it. I've been doing a crap load of research on this and outside of a couple of areas, I'm pretty confident I can pull it off.
Anyone else have any experience?

Also, who do I actually have to kill to get Steve from Tasca Ford to reply to a PM or e-mail?

You are wrapping the bumpers or the whole car? Id be more comfortable doing the first. I looked into doing the whole in the past but from my research, I was worried about wrinkles and the amount of time needing to be invested (6-8 hours but knowing first time probably more).

You get any quotes or that is why you're reaching out to that Steve?

Depending on the price, exterior looks is something Id want done right and I personally didn't think it was an easy DIY job. If it's something where you can give them the wrap and then they quote you the labor, that may also be worth it. Not sure what the labor would be. Maybe ~$500 for professionals?

[1slo5oh]

Alright...
So the front and back bumpers, in spite of taking care of the paint (it's outside 24x7) are starting to experience some bad fading\clear failure. I'm not in the position to paint the whole car so I'm concidering doing a wrap on it. I've been doing a crap load of research on this and outside of a couple of areas, I'm pretty confident I can pull it off.
Anyone else have any experience?

Also, who do I actually have to kill to get Steve from Tasca Ford to reply to a PM or e-mail?

FYI... I just had my front and rear bumpers re sprayed for $300... not sure what the material for the wrap would cost you but its just a band aid on the problem. Also I contacted him through FB when I bought my GT500 rear valence and he was quick to reply... Matter of face I need to contact him now about my Boss Timing chain tensioners... I have L&M cams going in now..

[HairyWBush]

[Answer1o1]

Here's my 2016 GT Premium PP 6spd. Nothing crazy. JLT CAi, diablo tune, Borla S type cb. Powder coated stock rims bronze with brushed finish

A bit dirty




Clean like the sloot she is

[cgc]

You are wrapping the bumpers or the whole car? Id be more comfortable doing the first. I looked into doing the whole in the past but from my research, I was worried about wrinkles and the amount of time needing to be invested (6-8 hours but knowing first time probably more).

You get any quotes or that is why you're reaching out to that Steve?

Depending on the price, exterior looks is something Id want done right and I personally didn't think it was an easy DIY job. If it's something where you can give them the wrap and then they quote you the labor, that may also be worth it. Not sure what the labor would be. Maybe ~$500 for professionals?

I'm planning on wrapping the whole car and honestly, out of that, the front bumper, side view mirrors and rear bumper worry me the most (in order of most to least). The rest of the car I think I can knock out...it will just be time consuming.
Pricing for someone else to wrap the car will push at or around $2K.

FYI... I just had my front and rear bumpers re sprayed for $300... not sure what the material for the wrap would cost you but its just a band aid on the problem. Also I contacted him through FB when I bought my GT500 rear valence and he was quick to reply... Matter of face I need to contact him now about my Boss Timing chain tensioners... I have L&M cams going in now..

Oh, I totally agree that it's a band-aid. But I can get materials for around $400 for the whole car and it will hold me over for 5-7 years...by that time, I should be able to have the car re-sprayed properly. Don't get me wrong, if things were different I'd much rather opt for a paint job.

I'll see if I can hit steve up on FB. I'm trying to give him the benefit of the doubt since he's always responded pretty quick in the past, but I've tried to hit him up 3 times so far and nada.

[ssg10587]

I'm planning on wrapping the whole car and honestly, out of that, the front bumper, side view mirrors and rear bumper worry me the most (in order of most to least). The rest of the car I think I can knock out...it will just be time consuming.
Pricing for someone else to wrap the car will push at or around $2K. ...

Is there someone you can trust or an independent mechanic where you can do much of it then let them tackle the problem areas?

If that is 2k just for the labor that is nuts. Even for labor and materials, that seems like not much less then what i've been quoted for actual paint jobs.

Either way man, hope it goes well. Post some pics when its done. Curious how it turns out and how you found doing it yourself.

[rectifryer]

I'm in a non-emissions controlled state so I'm thinking about removing the cats & resonators for my '18gt pp1. Isn't this where most of the gains from exhaust would come from? The stock headers are tubular and look like nice shorties honestly.

I'm thinking cat-delete, xpipe, CAI, tune for now.

[cgc]

Is there someone you can trust or an independent mechanic where you can do much of it then let them tackle the problem areas?

There are a couple of shops around me that install vinyl...I'm sure if I ran into an area that I wasn't confident about, they'd do it.

If that is 2k just for the labor that is nuts. Even for labor and materials, that seems like not much less then what i've been quoted for actual paint jobs.

That should be for materials and labor. I haven't got a quote specifically for my car, but just from googling and reading a bunch of articles and youtube videos from installers.

Either way man, hope it goes well. Post some pics when its done. Curious how it turns out and how you found doing it yourself.

Yeah, I'm curious about this myself lol.

[da2ricky]

The clear coat is coming off of my rear decklid panel. I wonder if that's covered under the paint warranty?

(3) Your vehicle’s body sheet metal panels are covered for an extended
Corrosion Coverage Period, which lasts for five years, regardless of miles
driven. The extended warranty coverage only applies if a body sheet metal
panel becomes perforated due to corrosion during normal use due to a
manufacturing defect in factory-supplied materials or factory workmanship.
For damage caused by airborne material (environmental fallout) where
there is no factory-related defect involved and therefore no warranty − our
policy is to provide free repair of paint damage due to the airborne
material for 12 months or 12,000 miles, whichever occurs first.

It's technically not sheet metal so I'm not sure.

[rectifryer]

The clear coat is coming off of my rear decklid panel. I wonder if that's covered under the paint warranty?



It's technically not sheet metal so I'm not sure.

They basically have to rust through (what they mean by "perforation") for them to honor that. At that point, it's easy for the mfg to state that you were negligent in it's care. It's a catch-22 for the consumer and every car manufacture has that policy that I am aware of.

[da2ricky]

They basically have to rust through (what they mean by "perforation") for them to honor that. At that point, it's easy for the mfg to state that you were negligent in it's care. It's a catch-22 for the consumer and every car manufacture has that policy that I am aware of.

Interesting.

I had a GMC Canyon years ago that developed what looked like tiny little rust specs all over it. The dealership went over it with a clay bar and covered it under the corrosion warranty. Maybe the dealership was just doing me a solid since I've purchased 3-4 vehicles from them over the years.

[rectifryer]

Interesting.

I had a GMC Canyon years ago that developed what looked like tiny little rust specs all over it. The dealership went over it with a clay bar and covered it under the corrosion warranty. Maybe the dealership was just doing me a solid since I've purchased 3-4 vehicles from them over the years.

Most likely. I assume it didn't cost them much in time to just clay bar the car. Replacing panels and painting is a lot more expensive it seems.

[1slo5oh]

I'm in a non-emissions controlled state so I'm thinking about removing the cats & resonators for my '18gt pp1. Isn't this where most of the gains from exhaust would come from? The stock headers are tubular and look like nice shorties honestly.

I'm thinking cat-delete, xpipe, CAI, tune for now.

Stock header coyotes have been in the 9's 1/4 mile... they flow fairly well. Of course long tubes will completely open it up but for the price of most long tube headers not necessarily worth it performance wise. I ended up putting a set on my '13 and it did pick up some power under the curve... how much who knows but its noticeable on the ass dyno. But that long tube sound tho.. hard to beat.

My advice would be to do the mods necessary to free up the exhaust from as many restrictions as possible (i.e. cat delete , delete the resonators , install better flowing axle back) Go with a reputable tuner regardless if you do a dyno tune or email.. Personally Shaun @ AED handles all of my tuning via email and absolutely nails it time and time again as I do more to the car. And a CAI really wont pick up any HP but they sure do clean up the engine bay. The PMAS has been proven to pick up a few peak HP over most CAI's but they look like a$$hole IMO.

[cgc]

Stock header coyotes have been in the 9's 1/4 mile... they flow fairly well. Of course long tubes will completely open it up but for the price of most long tube headers not necessarily worth it performance wise. I ended up putting a set on my '13 and it did pick up some power under the curve... how much who knows but its noticeable on the ass dyno. But that long tube sound tho.. hard to beat.

My advice would be to do the mods necessary to free up the exhaust from as many restrictions as possible (i.e. cat delete , delete the resonators , install better flowing axle back) Go with a reputable tuner regardless if you do a dyno tune or email.. Personally Shaun @ AED handles all of my tuning via email and absolutely nails it time and time again as I do more to the car. And a CAI really wont pick up any HP but they sure do clean up the engine bay. The PMAS has been proven to pick up a few peak HP over most CAI's but they look like a$$hole IMO.

Have you ever seen a comparison between (any brand) long tubes and Kooks shorty headers? I've heard they're good and I'm considering them, but I've not seen any numbers to compare. I know, they're not going to be as good as long tubes, but I already have a hi-flow catted X...I'm not looking to re-buy parts if there isn't just a substantial improvement.

[1slo5oh]

Have you ever seen a comparison between (any brand) long tubes and Kooks shorty headers? I've heard they're good and I'm considering them, but I've not seen any numbers to compare. I know, they're not going to be as good as long tubes, but I already have a hi-flow catted X...I'm not looking to re-buy parts if there isn't just a substantial improvement.

Cant say I have seen any actual comparisons done back to back. However, just from what I have gathered while cruising the Mustang FB pages and forums...a set of aftermarket shorty headers will pick you up about 10hp or so but don't remember it that was peak HP or under the curve. Personally I went with a set of Longtubes because it was going to be just as much of a pain in the a$$ to bolt longtubes up as it was shorty's.. and long tubes are proven to make more power. I had a local exhaust shop cut my X-pipe back and weld on flanges to make the final connection to the collector. Any exhaust shop worth a $hit would easily be able to cut in the cats you already have further back and re weld them up. So you wouldn't need to buy a new X-pipe.

[cgc]

Question on how much y'all would try to sell a set of 18" 2011 GT wheels, TPMS still installed...tires are shot.

What realistically would you look to sell these for? They're obviously not a high demand wheel, I get that....but I'm curious what you would try and sell them for.

[jcrue11]

I'd be happy to get $400 for the set, I'd start at that and see if you get any bites.

[cgc]

I'd be happy to get $400 for the set, I'd start at that and see if you get any bites.

OK, thats where I started...I'm relisting them everywhere now for $250 since I have had little to no intrest. I have gotten one offer for $150 which I declined. Like I said, I know they're not a high demand wheel, but come on...

[jcrue11]

I sold my Track Pack wheels with decent tires for $750, some guy with a V6 stang bought em, I had them listed on message boards and Craigslist for a couple months before they sold.

[Answer1o1]

My Mustang is for sale. Might actually part it out first and sell the car stock. Depends, if anyone wants it with the parts. It's the white one with bronze rims a few posts up. It's a 2016 GT Premium PP 6spd (fully loaded) mach sound system navi every option

Mods off of the top of my head;

GT350 shift knob and steering wheel
Borla S Type catback
JLT CAi
Diablo tuner
Powder coated PP rims

[cgc]

I sold my Track Pack wheels with decent tires for $750, some guy with a V6 stang bought em, I had them listed on message boards and Craigslist for a couple months before they sold.

Yeah, I've tried to sell these things off and on for the past couple of months and have slowly moved the price down. I have a buyer for them now for $200.
I'm just ready to get them out of the garage....

[rectifryer]

On that note I am hnnnnging for some GT350 wheels real hard. I am trying to find someone just selling the stock wheel/tire combo lol. It's proving a bit harder than I thought.

[da2ricky]

On that note I am hnnnnging for some GT350 wheels real hard. I am trying to find someone just selling the stock wheel/tire combo lol. It's proving a bit harder than I thought.

Vossen and Velgan make some nice rims for the mustang. The Vossen VFS1 looks similar to the GT350 rims.

I have the Velgan VMB5's but I'd trade them for a set of Vossen CV3's.

[ssg10587]

Rented a 2018 eco premium convertible and for anyone interested:

+ Seriously pretty quick. 6-7 sec 0-60 without even messing with launch control
+ 2018 premium interior is a big improvement. Test driven last gen and just didn't compare. 2018 is much more refined.
+ tons of trunk room
+ Same as last gen but the steering and mode customization is really nice
+ 10 speed auto better than last gen and a pretty solid improvement

- 10 speed can still be a little jerky
- Had red and would not recommend. Really ugly and cheap looking.
- engine and exhaust sound is chit as expected