***official auto detailing thread***

[BrianK.]

If it's a 'professional shop,' they should be using one.

Sure, for a casual or beginner, a rotary is something you should absolutely steer clear of until you've had some hours under your belt, but professionals most definitely use them.

Couple reasons why:

1) DA's are simply too time consuming if you run a shop. Takes 3-5x the arm work to get the same results as a rotary. They simply do not generate enough heat to work fast and remove paint in a timely manner. DA's are much safer to use, but that comes at the expense of a vast amount of time. You're not going to be able to offer your customers reasonable rates and turnaround if you're depending on a DA to do the work for you.

2) Most DA's simply aren't cut out for a lot of jobs. Good luck removing super deep marring/scratches with a DA and a wool pad. Limitations. A rotary can do anything and everything a DA can do, not vice versa.


Don't get me wrong, most shops will use a combination of the two depending on the stage (jeweling/lsp)/severity of the work, but every reputable shop I've seen uses a rotary for the actual paint correction for the reasons mentioned above.

I agree with you on speed, but that's what makes me hesitant about a lot of detailers. Too many shops are worried about just pushing cars through as quickly as possible. That's fine because it's their business, but it doesn't qualify you as a good detailer. (Not saying that's what you're implying)

I've been to a handful of detailing meets and almost every professional ditched the rotaries except for certain occasions like you mentioned. Especially needed if you're working on boats, RVs, planes, etc...most high end detailers charge more than $500 for a full interior and exterior (including paint correction). That's where I'm worried that this particular shop is just pushing vehicles through as fast as possible like every other detail shop I see (including auto dealers).

There have been a lot of tests to show the cutting ability of these large throw machines couple with MF pads vs Rotary, its crazy what they can do and still maintain safety. But I cant compare because I haven't used a rotary in years. I could never do this for a living because I wouldn't want to worry about margins and just be stuck using the same products every day. (I'm a product whore) I even remember seeing Mike Phillips saying that he wishes some of these large throw polishers were around back when he was using rotaries and he's an expert when it comes to using machines.

I understand the differences you laid out and I'm not arguing with you, but the whole detailing industry makes me cringe at times because a lot of these guys are hacks. I've seen it with my own eyes on cars of people that I know. Not to mention all the holograms I see out there...


Have you used a Rupes 21 with a MF pad? Or a Flex3401 with a wool pad? They do some great work. There are even videos out there that show they do faster work than rotaries in some occasions, but then again so many people are subjective, who knows who we can believe.

[BrianK.]

Since full time detailing season is almost here for me, I figured I would take pictures of some things I use. This picture is all of the wheel and tire tools I have (right now). Obviously I don't use all of these tools every time, but they're there if I need them. I also use a Meguiar's MF wash mit, not pictured.

As for the chemicals...I've pretty much used every ('Iron fighting')wheel cleaner that wasn't just released within last 1.5 years or so. Right now, I just have Meguiar's DUB (discontinued I think), Weather Tech and BMW Gel. The Weather Tech and BMW wheel cleaners were free luckily, so I'll be able to make it through this season with these products most likely. The gallon is Tuf Shine Tire Cleaner Concentrate that I mix 1:1 with water. Excellent tire cleaner, but once I'm done with it, I'll probably move on and try another.

Out of everything, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND the Tuf Shine tire brush to clean tires. It's not expensive at all and cleans really well. *The two black brushes with white scrubbers all the way to the left in picture. https://www.autogeek.net/tuf-shine-tire-brush.html

I also use two grit gaurds: one at bottom and one angled to scrub brushes on. However, they make angled ones for this purpose now, so get one of those because they fit better...I will eventually.

Just wanted to share in case someone is looking to add to their arsenal or something.

[BrianK.]

Forgot to add the tire dressing picture. This is what I have on hand right now, but I think I have CarPro Perl too. My dad might have it at his house or we went through it...great product.

[BrianK.]

A couple posts up I recommend the Tuf Shine tire brush.... Here is a no minimum, 20% off and free shipping opportunity to get it for the tough to swallow price of $3.99.

https://www.autopia-carcare.com/tuf-...l#.WttkxExFxPY



Code is EARTH2018

[BrianK.]

So a few posts up I said they made an angled grit guard, but I didn’t own it. Well, of course I had to buy it to see how it is. Love how it kind of connects to the other flat grit guards and doesn’t move at all. Perfect for wiping brushes or wash medias with ease and without having to dunk your whole arm towards the bottom and wipe at an awkward angle. Will probably buy another one because they’re so cheap. (During sales of course)

[SouthDakotaBrah]

Since full time detailing season is almost here for me, I figured I would take pictures of some things I use. This picture is all of the wheel and tire tools I have (right now). Obviously I don't use all of these tools every time, but they're there if I need them. I also use a Meguiar's MF wash mit, not pictured.

As for the chemicals...I've pretty much used every ('Iron fighting')wheel cleaner that wasn't just released within last 1.5 years or so. Right now, I just have Meguiar's DUB (discontinued I think), Weather Tech and BMW Gel. The Weather Tech and BMW wheel cleaners were free luckily, so I'll be able to make it through this season with these products most likely. The gallon is Tuf Shine Tire Cleaner Concentrate that I mix 1:1 with water. Excellent tire cleaner, but once I'm done with it, I'll probably move on and try another.

Out of everything, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND the Tuf Shine tire brush to clean tires. It's not expensive at all and cleans really well. *The two black brushes with white scrubbers all the way to the left in picture. https://www.autogeek.net/tuf-shine-tire-brush.html

I also use two grit gaurds: one at bottom and one angled to scrub brushes on. However, they make angled ones for this purpose now, so get one of those because they fit better...I will eventually.

Just wanted to share in case someone is looking to add to their arsenal or something.

Have you used Meguiar's Wheel Brightener? They sell it for like $25/gallon and you can dilute it at 4:1 (water:cleaner) so it makes 4-6 gallons of wheel cleaner (6:1 for more mild since it is acid based). I've been using it lately (with the same Mother's brush as you lol) and I think it works awesome. BMW brakes, I feel your pain.

[BrianK.]

Have you used Meguiar's Wheel Brightener? They sell it for like $25/gallon and you can dilute it at 4:1 (water:cleaner) so it makes 4-6 gallons of wheel cleaner (6:1 for more mild since it is acid based). I've been using it lately (with the same Mother's brush as you lol) and I think it works awesome. BMW brakes, I feel your pain.

I have only used it at a detailing meet (yes nerd) and it worked well. I've seen so many people have problems with it because of its corrosive nature, that I see no reason for me to have it in my arsenal. But if it's working for you, then definitely keep doing so. I always see people suggesting others to wear protective gear when using it...don't know if that's being too cautious or what, but definitely look into it. Most of the time I don't even use a wheel cleaner for my vehicle, just shampoo and water.

I had a STI so I know your pain with the BMW brake dust issues. The BMW wheel cleaner is pricey, but the GF and my sister both work for the same auto-group (which has a BMW dealer), so I got that for free. I don't have a BMW, but she has had a few as Demos or whatever they call them and I see how much dust they accumulate in just an hour drive sometimes. It's crazy...

I have a GMC Sierra now, so basically no brake dust lmao

[SouthDakotaBrah]

I have only used it at a detailing meet (yes nerd) and it worked well. I've seen so many people have problems with it because of its corrosive nature, that I see no reason for me to have it in my arsenal. But if it's working for you, then definitely keep doing so. I always see people suggesting others to wear protective gear when using it...don't know if that's being too cautious or what, but definitely look into it. Most of the time I don't even use a wheel cleaner for my vehicle, just shampoo and water.

I had a STI so I know your pain with the BMW brake dust issues. The BMW wheel cleaner is pricey, but the GF and my sister both work for the same auto-group (which has a BMW dealer), so I got that for free. I don't have a BMW, but she has had a few as Demos or whatever they call them and I see how much dust they accumulate in just an hour drive sometimes. It's crazy...

I have a GMC Sierra now, so basically no brake dust lmao

Wtf I had no idea people are saying it is so toxic, to the point of recommending using a mask with it? Even if I dilute it to 10:1 or something is it still an issue?

Thank you for awaring me, I have read nothing but 5 star reviews on it until now. Going to stop using it now unless I really need to it... sucks because I have two gallons of it lol.

[BrianK.]

Wtf I had no idea people are saying it is so toxic, to the point of recommending using a mask with it? Even if I dilute it to 10:1 or something is it still an issue?

Thank you for awaring me, I have read nothing but 5 star reviews on it until now. Going to stop using it now unless I really need to it... sucks because I have two gallons of it lol.

I'm not exactly sure how people are using it (dilution), but I just know I've read multiple times on Autogeek that people have problems with it. Or people (known chemists of some sort) say that its dangerous if you don't take certain precautions, especially with repeated use. Then you have detailers on YouTube saying "Look, I'm spraying it directly on my hand and it's fine", who knows really, but that doesn't prove long term use.

Every time I hear D140 Wheel Brightener, I immediately think of all the precautions I've read about. That's why I was letting you know to at least do some research on it. http://www.meguiars.com/content/es/msds/D140%20SDS.pdf <---MSDS

What I do know is that it works really well, but most people only recommend it for really neglected wheels.

[SouthDakotaBrah]

I'm not exactly sure how people are using it (dilution), but I just know I've read multiple times on Autogeek that people have problems with it. Or people (known chemists of some sort) say that its dangerous if you don't take certain precautions, especially with repeated use. Then you have detailers on YouTube saying "Look, I'm spraying it directly on my hand and it's fine", who knows really, but that doesn't prove long term use.

Every time I hear D140 Wheel Brightener, I immediately think of all the precautions I've read about. That's why I was letting you know to at least do some research on it. http://www.meguiars.com/content/es/msds/D140%20SDS.pdf <---MSDS

What I do know is that it works really well, but most people only recommend it for really neglected wheels.

Yeah, that is crazy. Had no idea people in the auto detailing world were talking about it being dangerous. I researched it more and I might just dilute it down, and then use it as a spray on/spray off and avoid contact with it unless I need to get my brush out to really clean my wheels.

[BrianK.]

Yeah, that is crazy. Had no idea people in the auto detailing world were talking about it being dangerous. I researched it more and I might just dilute it down, and then use it as a spray on/spray off and avoid contact with it unless I need to get my brush out to really clean my wheels.

It could also be a case of unnecessary fear...who knows really. Everything in moderation, but after searching a little bit more yesterday, some people have had issues with it on brake components as well.

[RobParks2M]

Hey folks, my wife scratched the crap out of her car in her underground parking area that is super cramped. The scratches are to the metal, but the car is fairly old/cheap so I don't necessarily want to go all out fixing it, but I'd like to use it as a learning experience on doing some light body work. She did it over the winter so there is some rust I'll be sanding off. The real question is what is the best way to cover it? Should I just get some sort of sealant from O'Reilly's? Or should I try to get to the dealership and get a small bottle with the same paint color to cover it. Looks aren't super important(obviously the new paint color won't match the faded paint), but just want to seal it as best as possible. As always, will rep for halp (esp product links)

[kovalchuk71]

Is the FLEX 3401 DA worth the outrageous price as compared to Griots 6" or 7424XP if I'm only going to be using it for myself? I had a non XP 7424 that produced nice results with Lake Country pads and Menzerna compund/polish, but it got lost when I moved .

[BrianK.]

Hey folks, my wife scratched the crap out of her car in her underground parking area that is super cramped. The scratches are to the metal, but the car is fairly old/cheap so I don't necessarily want to go all out fixing it, but I'd like to use it as a learning experience on doing some light body work. She did it over the winter so there is some rust I'll be sanding off. The real question is what is the best way to cover it? Should I just get some sort of sealant from O'Reilly's? Or should I try to get to the dealership and get a small bottle with the same paint color to cover it. Looks aren't super important(obviously the new paint color won't match the faded paint), but just want to seal it as best as possible. As always, will rep for halp (esp product links)

It really depends on how bad it is. Are they just isolated deep scratches? Or is it bad scuffing, like rubbing against a cement wall?

If they are bad isolated scratches, then it’s easier to touch up to make it look acceptable and Larry from Ammo has a few videos on that if you’re interested.

Is the FLEX 3401 DA worth the outrageous price as compared to Griots 6" or 7424XP if I'm only going to be using it for myself? I had a non XP 7424 that produced nice results with Lake Country pads and Menzerna compund/polish, but it got lost when I moved .

No if you’re just going to use it once/twice a year. GG6 is more functional for a hobbyist because you can change the size of backing plate down to a 3inch pad.

Get the GG6 on Pepboys or Advance Auto with online coupons (unless you can find it cheaper elsewhere). Then shop around for the best prices for pads/backing plates.

Edit: if you are willing to spend the dough on the 3401, then skip that idea and get the Rupes Mark II 15 or maybe a regular 15 still exists.

Double edit: Regular Rupes 15s are able to be had for $299 on AG. Could be cheaper elsewhere.

[Bosko]

Thoughts on ceramic coatings?
Got a quote from Zeibart for $1000

[ssg10587]

Thoughts on ceramic coatings?
Got a quote from Zeibart for $1000

Everything I've seen from researching this, says they are basically a longer lasting, more expensive wax. I wouldn't spend that kind of money. Know they have been hyped, but not sure they live up to that hype at all.

I personally just wax my car.

[Bosko]

Everything I've seen from researching this, says they are basically a longer lasting, more expensive wax. I wouldn't spend that kind of money. Know they have been hyped, but not sure they live up to that hype at all.

I personally just wax my car.

I suppose if you have disposable income and don't like to work/clean your own car it's not a bad option.
But at a grand...WHOA!

[Jax05]

Thoughts on ceramic coatings?
Got a quote from Zeibart for $1000

What car?

Everything I've seen from researching this, says they are basically a longer lasting, more expensive wax. I wouldn't spend that kind of money. Know they have been hyped, but not sure they live up to that hype at all.

I personally just wax my car.

Ceramic coating - unlike car wax - will protect against minor scratches/car wash swirls. Whether it's worth, depends on what car you have and how much it's worth to you.

[Bosko]

Small SUV...Kia Sportage

[ssg10587]

What car?



Ceramic coating - unlike car wax - will protect against minor scratches/car wash swirls. Whether it's worth, depends on what car you have and how much it's worth to you.

Mind expanding on this a bit? Do you mean it is worth it for expensive cars like exotics or?

Meaning I have a 2013 accord 6 coupe and a C6 corvette. It seems like those wouldn't be worth it.

I suppose if you have disposable income and don't like to work/clean your own car it's not a bad option.
But at a grand...WHOA!

If you have the interest, think you can do them yourself. Sounds like a bit of a process though and you may want to polish and paint correct before applying.

https://www.amazon.com/ceramic-coati...amic%20coating

[Bosko]

It takes a ton of prep work to do it right yourself, I can fuk up taking a twist tie off a bread bag if you know what I mean....LOL

[kovalchuk71]

Just used Opti Seal for the first time. Wow. It’s so easy to use. 10/10 wood rekommend

[ssg10587]

Ended up buying about $200 worth of stuff so going to try it and will report back. My older car needs it anyways due to some swirls and scratches.

1) PH neutral wash (seems like a gimmick but needed some car wash anyways)
2) some iron and contaminant remover
3) clay bar system
4) orbital polisher and some fine cut polish for swirls and scratches
5) Spray bottle and going to make the Isoprophyl mix for removing the wax and other junk
6) Ceramic coat. Think I did the Carpro Quartz
7) Silica Spray Sealant for the maintenance

[BrianK.]

Just used Opti Seal for the first time. Wow. It’s so easy to use. 10/10 wood rekommend

WOWA or WOWO Sealants are amazingly easy to use. I absolutely love using them..I just used Wolfgang Deep Gloss Spritz Sealant on the front end of my truck for a quick refresh.

I still love using a sealant like Collinite, one you put on thin and wait 30-45 to wipe it off. They obviously last longer, but are definitely more time consuming to use. Just the old school in me.

Ended up buying about $200 worth of stuff so going to try it and will report back. My older car needs it anyways due to some swirls and scratches.

1) PH neutral wash (seems like a gimmick but needed some car wash anyways)
2) some iron and contaminant remover
3) clay bar system
4) orbital polisher and some fine cut polish for swirls and scratches
5) Spray bottle and going to make the Isoprophyl mix for removing the wax and other junk
6) Ceramic coat. Think I did the Carpro Quartz
7) Silica Spray Sealant for the maintenance

Be careful with a IPA mix and distilled water. No lubrication for a clean wipe...doesn't affect all paint, but some paints will get marring.

[jlsnyderTypeR]

Anyone have any advice on keeping the brake dust build-up under control on black wheels? I own two vehicles now that have factory big brake systems with gloss black wheels. I can drive approx. 10 miles before the brake dust turns them flat black...Ugh!

I've tried waxing them regularly and it makes them easier to clean, but offers zero longevity to my issue.

I am looking at ordering the Adam's Ceramic wheel kit, but seeking advice first.

[BrianK.]

Anyone have any advice on keeping the brake dust build-up under control on black wheels? I own two vehicles now that have factory big brake systems with gloss black wheels. I can drive approx. 10 miles before the brake dust turns them flat black...Ugh!

I've tried waxing them regularly and it makes them easier to clean, but offers zero longevity to my issue.

I am looking at ordering the Adam's Ceramic wheel kit, but seeking advice first.

I haven’t read about anyone having success with any product on the market and I haven’t experienced anything myself that prevents buildup. Like you mentioned, putting some sort of LSP on the wheels makes them easier to clean, but that’s abot it.

Probably has something to do with temperature of the dust causing it to stick easier. It’s why you see more of those ‘rust spots’ on sides and back ends of light colored cars than on other parts of the car.

[jlsnyderTypeR]

I haven’t read about anyone having success with any product on the market and I haven’t experienced anything myself that prevents buildup. Like you mentioned, putting some sort of LSP on the wheels makes them easier to clean, but that’s abot it.

Probably has something to do with temperature of the dust causing it to stick easier. It’s why you see more of those ‘rust spots’ on sides and back ends of light colored cars than on other parts of the car.

Thanks for the feedback! I may try the ceramic kit and I might have favorable news to post back with!

[BrianK.]

Thanks for the feedback! I may try the ceramic kit and I might have favorable news to post back with!

Nice: it will be worth it even if it doesn’t prevent dust build up entirely. Adam’s make great products, so I doubt their coating will disappoint.

My guess is you’ll see a slight improvement on buildup, but a huge improvement on how well they clean off.

[ssg10587]

Ended it up doing it for both of my cars the past couple days. Have to ceramic coat my accord but it is now fully prepped. Was a lot of work but came out pretty well for my white corvette. For my black accord coupe, that is a different story. Dam black is a pain in the butthole to make look good. Still doesn't look great (ton of imperfections), but it's clean and hard for me to bish about my daily driver with some wear and tear.

Corvette is my first real white car and I love white already.

Tips:
1) Know it gets said over and over but PREP. I did ph neutral wash, contaminant remover, clay, polish and an IPA and it really came out well for the corvette
2) I bought and used a wipeless silica spray and that really helped with gloss and protection

It's a lot of work (Id say 2 hours per car, maybe less if you've done it before) but my hope is it will last and make cleaning easier for the future.

EDIT: I needed pretty much everything but cost was about $200 - $230 for all the cleaners, microfibers, prep stuff, ceramic and silica. Also picked up a cheaper orbital polisher for the polishing.

WOWA or WOWO Sealants are amazingly easy to use. I absolutely love using them..I just used Wolfgang Deep Gloss Spritz Sealant on the front end of my truck for a quick refresh.

I still love using a sealant like Collinite, one you put on thin and wait 30-45 to wipe it off. They obviously last longer, but are definitely more time consuming to use. Just the old school in me.




Be careful with a IPA mix and distilled water. No lubrication for a clean wipe...doesn't affect all paint, but some paints will get marring.

Thanks I ended up just not fully drying the car until the end of the process before I applied the ceramic. Didn't get any marring.

[BrianK.]

^Nice. I hope it holds up well for you. Should be much easier to wash going forward.