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  1. #121
    Don't Diss the Cats BrianK.'s Avatar
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    3. CLAYBAR (I could copy and paste the how to from somewhere else, but I’m trying to make this as newcomer friendly as possible and shy away from words that only experienced people may know.)


    What a clay bar is doing
    It’s removing contaminants from the surface that you always can’t see with your eyes. Using a clay bar will remove rail dust as well, which is a VERY COMMON issue on people’s cars. You will be shocked at how much a clay bar can ‘shine’ up your car.




    How to choose a clay bar
    It’s usually personal preference on size, grade or tackiness.
    -Size…is the size of the bar measure in grams
    -Grade…This is the measure of abrasiveness. The higher the grade the quicker the contaminants will be removed with less passes on the surface. (ultra-fine, fine, medium, heavy and maybe other levels)The bad part is that anything other than ultra-fine, fine and possibly medium will need a minor polishing afterwards as the heavier grades mar the surface.
    -Tackiness…explains itself, but people say some are ‘stickier’ than others.


    BAGGY TEST
    Most likely you will have to clay, but to test it first, take a sandwich baggy and place your hand inside it. Then, lightly rub across your paint. You’ll see that your paint feels rough. Clay a small spot, then do the baggy test again on the spot you just clayed; You will be AMAZED at the quick difference.

    *Quick notes before you watch the videos on how to clay:
    -Take a clay bar and cut it up in pieces for easier use and plus it will last longer.
    -Clay lubes are dependent on the user: Waterless washes, No rinses, Quick detailers, Car soap/water
    -You can clay your wheels and glass as well
    -If you drop the clay bar on the dirty ground: THROW IT OUT

    HOW TO CLAY-It’s easier to watch a video rather than me try to explain..it is very easy!!






    There are clay bar alternatives, but as a beginner you will want to stick to a traditional bar of clay. Even some professionals still consider the bar to be superior.
    Last edited by BrianK.; 08-30-2013 at 08:58 PM.
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  2. #122
    Registered User SeventhSin's Avatar
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    How important is a DA polisher? I was going to apply a polish by hand with quality cotton applicators after I rinse my car with Vinegar. Anyone have a polish they recommend?
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  3. #123
    LS1 to LBZ now BoostedLS2 BigB02z28's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by SeventhSin View Post
    How important is a DA polisher? I was going to apply a polish by hand with quality cotton applicators after I rinse my car with Vinegar. Anyone have a polish they recommend?
    I can promise you it's worth the $100 machine and a few pads.

    I cut up old pads into cubes to get into tight spaces that even my 3" machine can't get into... and it sucks... I can't imagine polishing an entire car by hand, not to mention it won't come out quite as well.

    When I was 15, I sanded my 1987 Trans Am by hand to be painted. I worked on it after school and it took me an entire year... I later got a job at a bodyshop... With a DA I could prep an entire car for paint in just a few hours...
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  4. #124
    Don't Diss the Cats BrianK.'s Avatar
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    Originally Posted by darkninja67 View Post
    saw one thread where the guy used mostly Wolfgang stuff to clean up his bike, looked like it did a great job.
    They have good stuff I would assume. I have only used their polishes. Very good.

    Originally Posted by BigB02z28 View Post
    Just made a comment about this product on a FB post... So figured I'd bring it here too.

    Amazing Roll Off - http://www.autogeek.net/amazingrolloff.html

    [img]http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/autogeek_2268_497142211[/img

    I use it for Engine bays and cleaning tires. If you've ever scrubbed your tires and it's still got a dingy dirty look to em. This will solve that. I've never gotten tires as clean as I can without using ARO.

    I also like to protect the engine bay with 303 aerospace. It's what I used on the engine bay pics on the other page.

    [img]http://www.303products.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/0/3/030350-ap-32oz.jpg[/img
    Aerospace is awesome stuff...I will have to check out ARO. I've heard good things about it.
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  5. #125
    Don't Diss the Cats BrianK.'s Avatar
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    Originally Posted by SeventhSin View Post
    How important is a DA polisher? I was going to apply a polish by hand with quality cotton applicators after I rinse my car with Vinegar. Anyone have a polish they recommend?
    Originally Posted by BigB02z28 View Post
    I can promise you it's worth the $100 machine and a few pads.

    I cut up old pads into cubes to get into tight spaces that even my 3" machine can't get into... and it sucks... I can't imagine polishing an entire car by hand, not to mention it won't come out quite as well.

    When I was 15, I sanded my 1987 Trans Am by hand to be painted. I worked on it after school and it took me an entire year... I later got a job at a bodyshop... With a DA I could prep an entire car for paint in just a few hours...
    You cant say it any better than that response.

    I just bought the Harbor freight Polisher to try it and was very impressed for $48.

    Check this thread out Harbor Freight Polisher

    Use at your own risk, but no one has had a problem at all if you just change the backing plate. Cheap option for newcomers.
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  6. #126
    Back to single mode! usafcolt's Avatar
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    My favorite time of spring is that first detail.

    Porter random orbital
    Lake Country (county?) pads
    got a bundle of pinnacle stuff from a deal on autogeeks
    Sonax for wheels. best stuff i've found (spray/rinse, no scrub)

    I love the 'intimacy' of a good detail. wash, strip, clay, polish, wax. hhnnngggg


    Originally Posted by BigB02z28 View Post
    I cut up old pads into cubes to get into tight spaces that even my 3" machine can't get into... and it sucks... I can't imagine polishing an entire car by hand, not to mention it won't come out quite as well.

    will be trying this next detail...
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  7. #127
    always re-setting captainbc's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the info guys! I'm really enjoying picking up your tips and advice.

    Originally Posted by usafcolt View Post
    My favorite time of spring is that first detail.
    I love the 'intimacy' of a good detail. wash, strip, clay, polish, wax. hhnnngggg
    Ugh, I hate that first detail. It's depressing seeing the damage caused by salt, sand and ice.
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  8. #128
    The Dark Lord darkninja67's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by captainbc View Post
    Thanks for all the info guys! I'm really enjoying picking up your tips and advice.



    Ugh, I hate that first detail. It's depressing seeing the damage caused by salt, sand and ice.
    you detail your bike??


    Brian, how is that Iron X stuff? I know you use it on wheel but I believe I saw some guy use it on his gas tank to help remove rail dust or something.


    also thoughts on the Sonax line? good for the wheels and interior for the most part right?
    Just trying to see if certain brands are known for being good at a particular job.
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  9. #129
    Don't Diss the Cats BrianK.'s Avatar
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    Originally Posted by darkninja67 View Post
    you detail your bike??


    Brian, how is that Iron X stuff? I know you use it on wheel but I believe I saw some guy use it on his gas tank to help remove rail dust or something.


    also thoughts on the Sonax line? good for the wheels and interior for the most part right?
    Just trying to see if certain brands are known for being good at a particular job.
    Yeah IronX is awesome and works great. You can use it on your tank. I used it on car paint and it bled out like crazy.

    Sonax has some awesome products.
    1. Wheel cleaner FE: go to by professionals
    2. Perfect Finish
    3. Net Shield: I never owned it, but did use it once.
    4. Read that their tire gel is awesome
    5. Brilliant Shine: I never owned it, but have used it.
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  10. #130
    The Dark Lord darkninja67's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by BrianK. View Post
    Yeah IronX is awesome and works great. You can use it on your tank. I used it on car paint and it bled out like crazy.

    Sonax has some awesome products.
    1. Wheel cleaner FE: go to by professionals
    2. Perfect Finish
    3. Net Shield: I never owned it, but did use it once.
    4. Read that their tire gel is awesome
    5. Brilliant Shine: I never owned it, but have used it.
    will probably grab the wheel cleaner and a Daytona brush plus the IronX
    thanks man
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  11. #131
    Registered Poopdick HamMach1's Avatar
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    But I heard you give your favorite producer
    head in trade for his creative juices.

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  12. #132
    Don't Diss the Cats BrianK.'s Avatar
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    Originally Posted by HamMach1 View Post
    Good kit.

    M105 and M205- these take some time to get used to. But work fantastic.

    These use a different technology than most other polishes, so make sure you know how to use SMAT polishes.

    Edit: I think Meguiars uses the term compound for M105.
    Last edited by BrianK.; 08-31-2013 at 10:05 AM.
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  13. #133
    Registered Poopdick HamMach1's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by BrianK. View Post
    Good kit.

    M105 and M205- these take some time to get used to. But work fantastic.

    These use a different technology than most other polishes, so make sure you know how to use SMAT polishes.

    Edit: I think Meguiars uses the term compound for M105.
    I am pretty new to detailing period, so no matter what I use will be a learning experience. Perhaps there are better starter products out there. I have just seem the 105 and 205 thrown around a lot.
    But I heard you give your favorite producer
    head in trade for his creative juices.

    USAF
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  14. #134
    Registered User SeventhSin's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by BigB02z28 View Post
    I can promise you it's worth the $100 machine and a few pads.

    I cut up old pads into cubes to get into tight spaces that even my 3" machine can't get into... and it sucks... I can't imagine polishing an entire car by hand, not to mention it won't come out quite as well.

    When I was 15, I sanded my 1987 Trans Am by hand to be painted. I worked on it after school and it took me an entire year... I later got a job at a bodyshop... With a DA I could prep an entire car for paint in just a few hours...

    It's just a little tedious since I don't have a garage to work out of, I will have to find a power source for it. I think Harbor Freight has a decent DA for around $59. Would a DA going for more be worth the extra cost? My paint is in pretty great shape, not much going on. I just want for appling polish, seals, and waxes for upkeep.

    I'm from clear lake, noticed you were in Katy.
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  15. #135
    Back to single mode! usafcolt's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by captainbc View Post
    Thanks for all the info guys! I'm really enjoying picking up your tips and advice.



    Ugh, I hate that first detail. It's depressing seeing the damage caused by salt, sand and ice.
    yeah, I can understand that one. But instead of winter tires, I just buy a beater for the German winter, so my baby's locked up for the winter.
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  16. #136
    Back to single mode! usafcolt's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by HamMach1 View Post
    I am pretty new to detailing period, so no matter what I use will be a learning experience. Perhaps there are better starter products out there. I have just seem the 105 and 205 thrown around a lot.
    I can't remember the first kit i bought, but IMO any kit that comes with the PC 7424 is a good deal. haha

    actually got an email that autogeek is having a labor day sale on polishers/kits. (http://www.autogeek.net/po.html)
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  17. #137
    Don't Diss the Cats BrianK.'s Avatar
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    Originally Posted by HamMach1 View Post
    I am pretty new to detailing period, so no matter what I use will be a learning experience. Perhaps there are better starter products out there. I have just seem the 105 and 205 thrown around a lot.
    The more important part of a beginner kit is the polisher. So, the porter cable is what you want for now.

    M105 and M205 are a great combo and they cut very well for their respective steps. (cut: means how well they cut away at the clear coat making the finish near flawless)

    What kind of car are you using this on? (color code as well)

    Edit: Mustang? Just saw your name.

    Originally Posted by SeventhSin View Post
    It's just a little tedious since I don't have a garage to work out of, I will have to find a power source for it. I think Harbor Freight has a decent DA for around $59. Would a DA going for more be worth the extra cost? My paint is in pretty great shape, not much going on. I just want for appling polish, seals, and waxes for upkeep.

    I'm from clear lake, noticed you were in Katy.
    I just recently bought the HF polisher to try out with my 3in backing plate and absolutely love it. It is more powerful than the Porter Cable and is beginner friendly...

    I posted the link a handful of posts up to the Autogeek discussion and people are loving it for $48. (25% coupon)

    Just make sure you get a smaller/better backing plate for it.
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    Most of my products. A lot are Adam's because I bought their kit with everything they sell, so I could try them all since I was so pleased with their detail spray and glass cleaner.

    *In the middle of finishing my garage.
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  19. #139
    LS1 to LBZ now BoostedLS2 BigB02z28's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by darkninja67 View Post
    will probably grab the wheel cleaner and a Daytona brush plus the IronX
    thanks man

    I can vouch for Sonax wheel cleaner and Iron X. I will tell you to use gloves with Iron X. It is the worst smell I've ever been around, and it will get into your skin too.

    I use it on wheels if they're extremely caked on with brake dust. The gel is a little better than the spray for that. Otherwise I use it before a 2/3 step correction. It works better if you kind of "work it in" with a wash mit after it sits for a second. Do not let it dry on the paint and be careful with plastics.

    Originally Posted by SeventhSin View Post
    It's just a little tedious since I don't have a garage to work out of, I will have to find a power source for it. I think Harbor Freight has a decent DA for around $59. Would a DA going for more be worth the extra cost? My paint is in pretty great shape, not much going on. I just want for appling polish, seals, and waxes for upkeep.

    I'm from clear lake, noticed you were in Katy.
    I've only used the PC7424, Griots 6" and Griots 3". The day after I got my GG6" and 3" I immediately retired my PC7424 to carpet duty and bought some carpet brushes for it. It's much more powerful and I can only think it'll totally out shine the HF machine. I've never used the HF machine, but lets face it, everything else in the store sucks. It'll get most of the jobs done, but its just ****ty quality tools.

    I'm not sure where clear lake is. I just moved here August 1st to go to SAM. I said earlier in the thread if anyone wants to see how to compound/polish with machine and live near me, they're more than welcome to come over and we'll knock out some test panels and I'll show you how to use it.

    You don't "need" a garage. I've done tons of correction out in the field. Hell, im doing my GTO in the driveway in my spare time since I've yet to install lightning in my new garage. Just keep it out of the direct sun, and double check that the panels are clean before going to work. I do a quick ONR wash on each panel before moving on to it if I'm outside, even if I just washed the vehicle.

    I think Poorboy's makes some polishes that you can use in the direct sun, I've never used them before. I like M105/205, I've used em for years and just stick to what I know. M105 dusts like a mofo though.

    Originally Posted by BrianK. View Post




    Most of my products. A lot are Adam's because I bought their kit with everything they sell, so I could try them all since I was so pleased with their detail spray and glass cleaner.

    *In the middle of finishing my garage.
    I like the cart man. I'm looking at getting one for myself since Im not out on the road anymore. Just going to do some stuff on the side in my garage at home while I'm in school.
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  20. #140
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    Originally Posted by BrianK. View Post
    The more important part of a beginner kit is the polisher. So, the porter cable is what you want for now.

    M105 and M205 are a great combo and they cut very well for their respective steps. (cut: means how well they cut away at the clear coat making the finish near flawless)

    What kind of car are you using this on? (color code as well)

    Edit: Mustang? Just saw your name.

    Yep... Mustang. Code is D3 (Colorado Red/Torch Red)
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    I use Adam's polishes on my rides, I have a Porter cable DA kit I got from them and most of their products. Recommended to anyone that wants to step it up a notch, auto part store products just can't compare.

    Besides Meguiars interior quick detailer it's pretty awesome.
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  22. #142
    Don't Diss the Cats BrianK.'s Avatar
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    Originally Posted by BigB02z28 View Post
    I can vouch for Sonax wheel cleaner and Iron X. I will tell you to use gloves with Iron X. It is the worst smell I've ever been around, and it will get into your skin too.

    I use it on wheels if they're extremely caked on with brake dust. The gel is a little better than the spray for that. Otherwise I use it before a 2/3 step correction. It works better if you kind of "work it in" with a wash mit after it sits for a second. Do not let it dry on the paint and be careful with plastics.



    I've only used the PC7424, Griots 6" and Griots 3". The day after I got my GG6" and 3" I immediately retired my PC7424 to carpet duty and bought some carpet brushes for it. It's much more powerful and I can only think it'll totally out shine the HF machine. I've never used the HF machine, but lets face it, everything else in the store sucks. It'll get most of the jobs done, but its just ****ty quality tools.

    I'm not sure where clear lake is. I just moved here August 1st to go to SAM. I said earlier in the thread if anyone wants to see how to compound/polish with machine and live near me, they're more than welcome to come over and we'll knock out some test panels and I'll show you how to use it.

    You don't "need" a garage. I've done tons of correction out in the field. Hell, im doing my GTO in the driveway in my spare time since I've yet to install lightning in my new garage. Just keep it out of the direct sun, and double check that the panels are clean before going to work. I do a quick ONR wash on each panel before moving on to it if I'm outside, even if I just washed the vehicle.

    I think Poorboy's makes some polishes that you can use in the direct sun, I've never used them before. I like M105/205, I've used em for years and just stick to what I know. M105 dusts like a mofo though.



    I like the cart man. I'm looking at getting one for myself since Im not out on the road anymore. Just going to do some stuff on the side in my garage at home while I'm in school.
    The cart is from Harbor Freight and I saw it while doing a google search for a good work cart a while ago. They always have 20-25% off coupons...I have a store near me, so I was able to check out the quality in person and liked it a lot. They have a bunch to choose from.

    Harbor Freight Carts

    I have seen that people say their quality is poor, but I only have 2 things from them: the cart and the DA. The DA is a steal for $48 and if it breaks, then at least I didn't pay much. I used it with 3-4in pads and worked fantastic.



    Originally Posted by HamMach1 View Post
    Yep... Mustang. Code is D3 (Colorado Red/Torch Red)
    Ford is known for having 'soft' paint, but Mustangs are known for having 'hard' paint. So, getting the M105/M205 combo should be perfect. Hard paint means that the clear coat needs something more aggressive in order to cut it down and correct it.
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    Originally Posted by BrianK. View Post

    Ford is known for having 'soft' paint, but Mustangs are known for having 'hard' paint. So, getting the M105/M205 combo should be perfect. Hard paint means that the clear coat needs something more aggressive in order to cut it down and correct it.
    Think I will get it then, along with that awesome foam blaster lol
    But I heard you give your favorite producer
    head in trade for his creative juices.

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    Originally Posted by HamMach1 View Post
    Think I will get it then, along with that awesome foam blaster lol
    Make sure you watch videos on how to use the Porter cable and make sure you watch videos on how to use M105/M205. Then combine both practices (unless of course you find a reputable video using both).
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    In fit a read later
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  26. #146
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    RINSE/WASH AGAIN/DRY

    This step depends on your previous step’s technique.

    DIFFERENT OPTIONS HERE and it all depends on your preference
    1. You clayed using carwash soap and water: If you used this step then you can just rinse the car off after claying.

    2. You used a clay lube (waterless wash/detail spray/clay lube/etc):
    A. Leave the clay lube on the car and move on: Here is where an argument starts with detailers. Some people say that leaving the clay lube residue will diminish the ability to ‘cut’ the clear coat with your polish. Some people say it doesn’t matter. Some people say it could clog up your pad. So, it depends on who you listen to or how you feel after reading every argument.
    B. Rinse the car down with water after claying.
    C. Re wash the car using your normal wash method.


    DRYING
    This is self-explanatory, but I want to add some things.
    -The towel you use is important if you want to make your life easier. I prefer waffle weave towels and there are some nice ones out there that can dry whole 4 door sedan with one towel.
    - Don’t spray any detailer or spray wax when drying: remember you’re polishing after this, so don’t waste product or your time; just dry.
    -Having water drip on the panels as you’re polishing is not the end of the world; I’ll get into how you spray your polishing pads later with water or detail spray. So, if you want you can use a blower to spray out cracks, but that’s your own preference. Just make sure the plastics are dry and streak free.


    Next----> Dress plastics/rubbers and tape if necessary
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    Originally Posted by BrianK. View Post
    Make sure you watch videos on how to use the Porter cable and make sure you watch videos on how to use M105/M205. Then combine both practices (unless of course you find a reputable video using both).
    Using the Porter Cable looks pretty simple. So long as I take it slow and not get complacent and follow instructions I should be alright
    But I heard you give your favorite producer
    head in trade for his creative juices.

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  28. #148
    LS1 to LBZ now BoostedLS2 BigB02z28's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by HamMach1 View Post
    Using the Porter Cable looks pretty simple. So long as I take it slow and not get complacent and follow instructions I should be alright
    Look up Junkman's videos. He does quite a bit and they're entertaining.

    http://www.youtube.com/user/Junkman2000
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  29. #149
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    Yep Junkman is probably the only person I've seen who goes over the PC in a ton of detail.
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    Originally Posted by BigB02z28 View Post
    I can vouch for Sonax wheel cleaner and Iron X. I will tell you to use gloves with Iron X. It is the worst smell I've ever been around, and it will get into your skin too.

    I use it on wheels if they're extremely caked on with brake dust. The gel is a little better than the spray for that. Otherwise I use it before a 2/3 step correction. It works better if you kind of "work it in" with a wash mit after it sits for a second. Do not let it dry on the paint and be careful with plastics.



    I've only used the PC7424, Griots 6" and Griots 3". The day after I got my GG6" and 3" I immediately retired my PC7424 to carpet duty and bought some carpet brushes for it. It's much more powerful and I can only think it'll totally out shine the HF machine. I've never used the HF machine, but lets face it, everything else in the store sucks. It'll get most of the jobs done, but its just ****ty quality tools.

    I'm not sure where clear lake is. I just moved here August 1st to go to SAM. I said earlier in the thread if anyone wants to see how to compound/polish with machine and live near me, they're more than welcome to come over and we'll knock out some test panels and I'll show you how to use it.

    You don't "need" a garage. I've done tons of correction out in the field. Hell, im doing my GTO in the driveway in my spare time since I've yet to install lightning in my new garage. Just keep it out of the direct sun, and double check that the panels are clean before going to work. I do a quick ONR wash on each panel before moving on to it if I'm outside, even if I just washed the vehicle.

    I think Poorboy's makes some polishes that you can use in the direct sun, I've never used them before. I like M105/205, I've used em for years and just stick to what I know. M105 dusts like a mofo though.
    I appreciate all the info guys, I was about to buy the Harbor Freight DA today, but I think I'm going to hold off a week and buy a Porter Cable . For power, should I just use an inverter to use my car's cig lighter?


    Today, I noticed, I have some light spider swirls in my paint. I use CG's microfiber and Optimum rinseless wash about once every 2 weeks. And, a waffle weave to dry the car off. I'm not sure how these scratches came about.

    I'm thinking the CG towels are cheaper than I thought, I wash them after EVERY use.
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