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  1. #61
    Don't Diss the Cats BrianK.'s Avatar
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    Originally Posted by Ayz33 View Post
    Question: The windows on my car have some sort of "scratch" pattern on them, completely vertical but i don't think its actually scratches as i don't feel them. Tried multiple cleaning methods including sprays and clay. Even tried to mess around and use wax but nothing worked. Not sure what to do..its on both sides and i guess just sort of developed over time. Maybe there was some sort of sand/dirt inside my door from living out in Arizona and it scratched it more and more every time i put my windows down(all the time)
    Glass is very hard and is very hard to correct. It can be time consuming as well. My suggestion without seeing it is a correcting polish with a microfiber by hand since you said you can't feel the scratch. However, most of the time you need a rotary buffer and some specific glass polish to do heavy duty work. People have gotten some good results using a dual action polisher, but again it depends on the scratch.

    Originally Posted by FenderFreak145 View Post
    In on this, I'm becoming obsessed with washing/cleaning the mustang.

    Definitely following AMMO NYC's youtube/site.

    I'll take pics of my poverty supplies in a bit when I get cleaned up.

    EDIT: Done, extreme beginner set-up:

    Larry from AMMO is awesome. I bought is wheel regimen and it works great. Looking forward to buying more of his stuff once I run low on other products.

    Hey man everyone starts somewhere. Once you get the hang of washing and drying then it will definitely be a good choice to get some online bought products. Ask any questions about products in here.

    Originally Posted by BigB02z28 View Post
    They're scratches from your rubber seals. You can get a glass polish and pad and remove them but they'll come back if you don't replace the rubbers.

    If anyone is near Houston/Katy Tx, I just moved out here and would be glad to show any of you how to polish your cars if you plan on getting a PC or 6" Griots.

    I can also do any detailing obviously not free.

    My steamer



    My Extractor

    The mytee and vx are great products. I used the Mytee at one of my lady's dealers and loved it. The VX gets great reviews, but haven't used it. I can't justify buying them myself since I don't have time to make more money doing other people's cars anymore. But would love to add these one day. I have a consumer graded steamer and they make life so much easier.
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  2. #62
    Banned flairon's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by MVHagey View Post
    You could spend half the price and you wouldn't know the difference. It shouldn't take more than 5 hours to make a car look brand new.
    It depends on what you consider 'detailing.' If you mean going down to the local car wash hitting it with a soapy brush, rinsing it off then slopping an armor-all'd towel around the inside, yeah, you could probably do that in 5 hours.


    But thats not detailing, thats just cleaning.

    When you start busting out q-tips when it comes time to clean your interior, then you're detailing.
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  3. #63
    Banned flairon's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by Ayz33 View Post
    Question: The windows on my car have some sort of "scratch" pattern on them, completely vertical but i don't think its actually scratches as i don't feel them. Tried multiple cleaning methods including sprays and clay. Even tried to mess around and use wax but nothing worked. Not sure what to do..its on both sides and i guess just sort of developed over time. Maybe there was some sort of sand/dirt inside my door from living out in Arizona and it scratched it more and more every time i put my windows down(all the time)
    Most likely the cause of the scratch is inside the door. Usually along the window channels there are felt snubbers that keep the glass straight. After a while they will wear down and they start leaving wear mars on the glass. You could probably buff it out with fine liquid buffing compound and a sheeps wool bonnet.
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  4. #64
    16.75" of Clive wannabe natypes's Avatar
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    We'll keep this at the top for a while. If it gets derailed report it or pm me. Too bad sticking this thread will not get my car detailed.
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  5. #65
    Don't Diss the Cats BrianK.'s Avatar
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    Have an order from Autogeek coming Tuesday that includes Detailer's Pro Series Road Kill Bug Remover. I'm excited about using this product because its safe on waxes and sealants. Unlike every other Bug Remover or all purpose cleaner, this won't strip the LSP you have on.

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  6. #66
    Curlz in the Kitchen Airror's Avatar
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    Neat, didn't know someone made a detailing thread.

    I just recently got into detailing as a hobby when I got my first car.

    Some products that I use:
    Griot's Garage 6" Polisher, 3rd gen
    Various Lake Country pads
    Surbuff Microfingers pad
    Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish
    Wolfgang's Finishing Glaze
    Dodo Juice waxes
    Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze
    Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection
    Optimum's No Rinse Wash and Power Clean
    Chemical Guy's Extreme VRP Dressing
    etc.

    I've been detailing my father's 2004 Ford Thunderbird and I suppose I will post some before/after shots when I'm done.
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  7. #67
    I just want to pew pew Vayne's Avatar
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    Back in October last year I used 1 of the Sylvania headlight restoration kits. Probably wouldn't hurt to do another before winter hits.







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  8. #68
    Brozerker Vikingblood666's Avatar
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    Are there any scratch remover kits to fix this or do I have to get this repainted?

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  9. #69
    Don't Diss the Cats BrianK.'s Avatar
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    Originally Posted by Airror View Post
    Neat, didn't know someone made a detailing thread.

    I just recently got into detailing as a hobby when I got my first car.

    Some products that I use:
    Griot's Garage 6" Polisher, 3rd gen
    Various Lake Country pads
    Surbuff Microfingers pad
    Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish
    Wolfgang's Finishing Glaze
    Dodo Juice waxes
    Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze
    Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection
    Optimum's No Rinse Wash and Power Clean
    Chemical Guy's Extreme VRP Dressing
    etc.

    I've been detailing my father's 2004 Ford Thunderbird and I suppose I will post some before/after shots when I'm done.
    Nice...post pics when you're done. I can't find the folder on my old laptop with all my pictures of past projects.

    Nice product lineup. How do you like the Surbuf pads? I currently use buff and shine microfiber pads.
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  10. #70
    Don't Diss the Cats BrianK.'s Avatar
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    Originally Posted by Vikingblood666 View Post
    Are there any scratch remover kits to fix this or do I have to get this repainted?

    Can you feel the scratches with your finger nail catching?
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  11. #71
    Brozerker Vikingblood666's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by BrianK. View Post
    Can you feel the scratches with your finger nail catching?
    Yes i can. Some phaggot used a little screwdriver or nail to vandalize my car few months ago.
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  12. #72
    LS1 to LBZ now BoostedLS2 BigB02z28's Avatar
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    Here's a few random pics.











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  13. #73
    Don't Diss the Cats BrianK.'s Avatar
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    Originally Posted by Vikingblood666 View Post
    Yes i can. Some phaggot used a little screwdriver or nail to vandalize my car few months ago.
    I can't quite tell, but it looks like it's through the base coat (color).

    If you want perfection then the panel needs to be repainted. If you want it to blend in and not be as noticable then you can get some touch up paint.

    It can be a tricky process if you want it to look its best without repainting the whole panel. So, my suggestion would be to find a video on YouTube to see their process of touching it up. Then find more and watch those. It's easier to do that than for me to try and explain how to do it through here.

    When I have some time later I'll pick through some videos and point you in the right direction. For now slap some wax or sealant on it until you figure out what you're going to do.
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  14. #74
    Moderator bbmod2's Avatar
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    Anyone ever use lemon pledge on their bike or carbon fiber bits? I remember reading a while back that it helps keep the sine and makes it easier to keep clean. Not sure if true.
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  15. #75
    LS1 to LBZ now BoostedLS2 BigB02z28's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by bbmod2 View Post
    Anyone ever use lemon pledge on their bike or carbon fiber bits? I remember reading a while back that it helps keep the sine and makes it easier to keep clean. Not sure if true.
    If you're looking for something quick, I use Opti-seal.



    It's like $20 for a small bottle but it goes a LONG way. You don't have to use much.

    I do all my wheels with it. You literally whipe it on and walk away. Brake dust comes off with just soap and water.
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  16. #76
    Don't Diss the Cats BrianK.'s Avatar
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    Originally Posted by bbmod2 View Post
    Anyone ever use lemon pledge on their bike or carbon fiber bits? I remember reading a while back that it helps keep the sine and makes it easier to keep clean. Not sure if true.
    Pledge has silicon in it. Silicone is not a good product to put on anything clear coated.

    This was a practice for people back in the day before they invented better safer products for cars and bikes etc...

    What are you looking to do to your bike?
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  17. #77
    VOL ALUMNI J_L_R's Avatar
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    and for weekly quick washes/waxing, love this stuff
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    Don't Diss the Cats BrianK.'s Avatar
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    Originally Posted by BigB02z28 View Post
    Here's a few random... (Pics)
    Looks good man.

    Steam cleaner for the leather?
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  19. #79
    Registered User NoneShallPass's Avatar
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    Has anyone here tried a rinseless wash? ONR? .. Or the "Gary Dean Wash Method"?
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    LS1 to LBZ now BoostedLS2 BigB02z28's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by NoneShallPass View Post
    Has anyone here tried a rinseless wash? ONR? .. Or the "Gary Dean Wash Method"?
    I use ONR all the time. The Gary Dean Wash Method works great if you live in an apartment or something. He's a nice dude too. Lives in Tampa, FL -- Where I just moved from. He's a little "try hard" at getting his product line and methods established so it's kind of annoying but you can't blame the guy.
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  21. #81
    Banned mazaa's Avatar
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    What I do on a weekly basis:
    Wash the wheels first
    Wash the body next with Auto Glym
    Chamois
    I used to spray Turtle Wax weekly also but decided to stop (had water spots, stopped using it since and they've disappeared)

    Just before summer I give my car a nice 3 stage polish/wax.

    Anything else I should do on the weekly basis? I mean, my car is pretty fukn spotless (posted pics in other threads) but also open to any tips/recommendations!

    Good thread, reps to op.
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  22. #82
    Don't Diss the Cats BrianK.'s Avatar
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    Originally Posted by NoneShallPass View Post
    Has anyone here tried a rinseless wash? ONR? .. Or the "Gary Dean Wash Method"?
    BigB02z28 said it perfectly. ONR is a fantastic product, but don't have any right now.

    Originally Posted by mazaa View Post
    What I do on a weekly basis:
    Wash the wheels first
    Wash the body next with Auto Glym
    Chamois
    I used to spray Turtle Wax weekly also but decided to stop (had water spots, stopped using it since and they've disappeared)

    Just before summer I give my car a nice 3 stage polish/wax.

    Anything else I should do on the weekly basis? I mean, my car is pretty fukn spotless (posted pics in other threads) but also open to any tips/recommendations!

    Good thread, reps to op.
    No you've got it down perfectly. Instead of a spray wax that you used to use, you might want to add a detail spray that is labeled as a "wax booster" to your arsenal. Spray it on while you're drying the car after the wash. This helps eliminate water spots even when trying to dry in the sun; adds incredible shine and slickness too.

    IMO you should look at a waffle weave drying towel.

    If you're car looks good and you don't have any issues, then keep up what you're doing. If you have any issues, let us know.
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  23. #83
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    Originally Posted by FenderFreak145 View Post
    In on this, I'm becoming obsessed with washing/cleaning the mustang.

    Definitely following AMMO NYC's youtube/site.

    I'll take pics of my poverty supplies in a bit when I get cleaned up.

    EDIT: Done, extreme beginner set-up:

    Dat dere autozone detailing kit/10

    Imma fan of Meg, but damn their shyt is not much cheaper than Zaino or Pinnacle.

    Edit: Just saw you the 2 bucket wash, good stuff man. So many people don't do this.
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    LS1 to LBZ now BoostedLS2 BigB02z28's Avatar
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    Few more random pics







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  25. #85
    Don't Diss the Cats BrianK.'s Avatar
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    Originally Posted by BigB02z28 View Post
    People love when this is done to their car. Such an easy way to make someone happy and recommend you in the future.
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    Let’s talk about each process it takes for a full paint correction. Now keep in mind that some of these steps can be altered or removed, but this is the proper order if I was going to do a paint correction on someone’s car. I will go over each step piece by piece as time permits…


    Here are the steps and I will define them after they are listed:


    1. Strip Wash (Including wheels)
    2. Decontamination spray/gel (Iron/metallic fighting products)
    3. Clay Bar
    4. Rinse/Wash again
    5. Dry
    6. Dress Plastics and rubbers
    7. Tape if necessary
    8. Polish
    9. IPA wipe down/wash again
    10. Sealant
    11. Glaze
    12. Wax
    13. Sit back and enjoy your art
    14. Maintain your work



    1. Strip Wash- 3 Ways
    A. Dawn Dish soap
    B. All Purpose Cleaner added to your soap of choice
    C. Car Wash Soap that isn’t safe for LSPs*

    A. Dawn dish soap- Yes, people use dawn dish washing soap to strip wash, but it doesn’t always do you good or………..bad. It has been proven to do nothing bad, it has been proven to break down wax, it’s been proven to dry out rubber seals over time and it has been proven that none of the above is true. What I’m getting at is; use Dawn if you want too or at your own risk. On Dawn’s website, it does say not to use on your car, but don’t be scared by that. People who don’t know much about taking care of their car use it on a weekly basis and their car doesn’t explode. I never use it anymore, but have in the past and it did not break down the wax I put down on my mother’s car.
    B. APC- A clear coat safe all-purpose cleaner is not safe for LSPs. It can and will break down the LSP on your car: if not immediately; eventually.
    C. There are car wash soaps out there that are not safe for LSPs. They are designed like this for a reason and sometimes safe car wash soaps not diluted properly are unsafe for LSPs as well. They’re designed like this to make a full detail job easier for the detailer. They don’t add gloss, they don’t add “shine”; their sole purpose is to break “stuff” down.


    WHEELS FIRST: I like to use an all-purpose cleaner with a foaming sprayer to clean the tires and wheels first. Two reasons for tires: One reason is tire browning aka tire bloom. This is a normal occurrence that happens over the life of the tire (depends on some variables that I can answer later if you’re interested). The APC will help eliminate the browning. Second reason is that I want to get rid of the old tire gel that may be on there already so I’m working with a clean tire. This will also get rid of any dressing that may be solvent based off the tire which can shorten its life or sling onto the paint causing staining; sometimes permanent. Then onto the wheel with the APC: this will clean it and rid it of any surface dirt such as grease or oil, etc…
    After using the APC, I will use an iron/metallic fighting product. There are a bunch of them out there (for the newcomers: the ones that turn purple). These are great for fighting and dissolving brake dust. These types of wheel cleaners make it easy work.

    MY METHOD FOR THE WASH: What I like to do is use my foam gun for every wash, including both strip washes and maintenance washes. Foam guns are connected directly to your garden hose and work great. Focusing on a strip wash; In my 32oz foam gun container I add Adam’s Car Wash Soap (about 2 squirts) ,2-3oz of an all-purpose cleaner and fill the rest with water. Using this method, I find it helps break down any foreign substance that may be on the car and helps me fight any LSP that is on the car. So, all in one, I get a wash that gets any dust, dirt, grime, etc…off the car to help me work forward in my process.

    *This can be done with a soap of your choice. Now when you are looking to correct the paint on your car, you want to get rid of any previous LSP* that was applied. Why did I mention this? Because there are car wash soaps that add a layer of protection, although microscopic layer, you don’t want to work backwards. With that said you want to always for forward in your process of eliminating the LSP on the car (if there is one).

    **LSP= Last Step Product- aka Wax, Sealant, or semi-permanent coating (very hard to remove)

    ***Always rinse the car off first with water.

    Tools used
    1. Foam Gun
    2. Car Wash soap: I prefer Adam’s
    3. Wash Mitt
    4. 2 buckets with grit guards
    5. All-purpose cleaner
    6. Metallic fighting product
    7. Various wheel brushes


    *Disclaimer: This is how I choose to do this process; there are plenty of other ways and techniques, but I’m sharing mine for anyone who wants to learn. Feel free to chime in and add yours or correct me if you feel necessary and see a mistake somewhere. I always love a discussion about this stuff and if you want me to clarify on anything or go into more detail; ask!
    **If you want to know what products I use for each step: let me know.

    To be continued…Next step----> Decontamination of the paint (When I have time)
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  27. #87
    LS1 to LBZ now BoostedLS2 BigB02z28's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by BrianK. View Post
    Let’s talk about each process it takes for a full paint correction. Now keep in mind that some of these steps can be altered or removed, but this is the proper order if I was going to do a paint correction on someone’s car. I will go over each step piece by piece as time permits…


    Here are the steps and I will define them after they are listed:


    1. Strip Wash (Including wheels)
    2. Decontamination spray/gel (Iron/metallic fighting products)
    3. Clay Bar
    4. Rinse/Wash again
    5. Dry
    6. Dress Plastics and rubbers
    7. Tape if necessary
    8. Polish
    9. IPA wipe down/wash again
    10. Sealant
    11. Glaze
    12. Wax
    13. Sit back and enjoy your art
    14. Maintain your work



    1. Strip Wash- 3 Ways
    A. Dawn Dish soap
    B. All Purpose Cleaner added to your soap of choice
    C. Car Wash Soap that isn’t safe for LSPs*

    A. Dawn dish soap- Yes, people use dawn dish washing soap to strip wash, but it doesn’t always do you good or………..bad. It has been proven to do nothing bad, it has been proven to break down wax, it’s been proven to dry out rubber seals over time and it has been proven that none of the above is true. What I’m getting at is; use Dawn if you want too or at your own risk. On Dawn’s website, it does say not to use on your car, but don’t be scared by that. People who don’t know much about taking care of their car use it on a weekly basis and their car doesn’t explode. I never use it anymore, but have in the past and it did not break down the wax I put down on my mother’s car.
    B. APC- A clear coat safe all-purpose cleaner is not safe for LSPs. It can and will break down the LSP on your car: if not immediately; eventually.
    C. There are car wash soaps out there that are not safe for LSPs. They are designed like this for a reason and sometimes safe car wash soaps not diluted properly are unsafe for LSPs as well. They’re designed like this to make a full detail job easier for the detailer. They don’t add gloss, they don’t add “shine”; their sole purpose is to break “stuff” down.


    WHEELS FIRST: I like to use an all-purpose cleaner with a foaming sprayer to clean the tires and wheels first. Two reasons for tires: One reason is tire browning aka tire bloom. This is a normal occurrence that happens over the life of the tire (depends on some variables that I can answer later if you’re interested). The APC will help eliminate the browning. Second reason is that I want to get rid of the old tire gel that may be on there already so I’m working with a clean tire. This will also get rid of any dressing that may be solvent based off the tire which can shorten its life or sling onto the paint causing staining; sometimes permanent. Then onto the wheel with the APC: this will clean it and rid it of any surface dirt such as grease or oil, etc…
    After using the APC, I will use an iron/metallic fighting product. There are a bunch of them out there (for the newcomers: the ones that turn purple). These are great for fighting and dissolving brake dust. These types of wheel cleaners make it easy work.

    MY METHOD FOR THE WASH: What I like to do is use my foam gun for every wash, including both strip washes and maintenance washes. Foam guns are connected directly to your garden hose and work great. Focusing on a strip wash; In my 32oz foam gun container I add Adam’s Car Wash Soap (about 2 squirts) ,2-3oz of an all-purpose cleaner and fill the rest with water. Using this method, I find it helps break down any foreign substance that may be on the car and helps me fight any LSP that is on the car. So, all in one, I get a wash that gets any dust, dirt, grime, etc…off the car to help me work forward in my process.

    *This can be done with a soap of your choice. Now when you are looking to correct the paint on your car, you want to get rid of any previous LSP* that was applied. Why did I mention this? Because there are car wash soaps that add a layer of protection, although microscopic layer, you don’t want to work backwards. With that said you want to always for forward in your process of eliminating the LSP on the car (if there is one).

    **LSP= Last Step Product- aka Wax, Sealant, or semi-permanent coating (very hard to remove)

    ***Always rinse the car off first with water.

    Tools used
    1. Foam Gun
    2. Car Wash soap: I prefer Adam’s
    3. Wash Mitt
    4. 2 buckets with grit guards
    5. All-purpose cleaner
    6. Metallic fighting product
    7. Various wheel brushes


    *Disclaimer: This is how I choose to do this process; there are plenty of other ways and techniques, but I’m sharing mine for anyone who wants to learn. Feel free to chime in and add yours or correct me if you feel necessary and see a mistake somewhere. I always love a discussion about this stuff and if you want me to clarify on anything or go into more detail; ask!
    **If you want to know what products I use for each step: let me know.

    To be continued…Next step----> Decontamination of the paint (When I have time)
    I agree with the above except for two parts.

    Before #8 would be a compound such as Meguiars 105. I'd venture to say that 80% of the cars I do need a heavier cut than a polish. Even if its just in a few select area's. You obviously want to use the least abrasive way to a perfect finish. Dark colors I like to finish with a 3rd step such as Menzerna PO85RD, in the detailing world people call it "jeweling".

    2nd thing is Step #11. A glaze while it has its uses, it does really "pop" a finish, and many have fillers to hide scratches and swirls, I typically don't ever use it. If you're doing a full paint correction you won't need the fillers. And the issue I have with a glaze is that it does not last very long. It'll usually be gone by the next time you wash your car, or even sooner. Also, applying the wax on top of the glaze means that when this glaze goes, it'll take your wax with it, as it doesn't bond to the sealant or paint for as long as a wax will.

    Just my way of doing things, there are many ways to skin a cat.
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  28. #88
    Don't Diss the Cats BrianK.'s Avatar
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    Originally Posted by BigB02z28 View Post
    I agree with the above except for two parts.

    Before #8 would be a compound such as Meguiars 105. I'd venture to say that 80% of the cars I do need a heavier cut than a polish. Even if its just in a few select area's. You obviously want to use the least abrasive way to a perfect finish. Dark colors I like to finish with a 3rd step such as Menzerna PO85RD, in the detailing world people call it "jeweling".

    2nd thing is Step #11. A glaze while it has its uses, it does really "pop" a finish, and many have fillers to hide scratches and swirls, I typically don't ever use it. If you're doing a full paint correction you won't need the fillers. And the issue I have with a glaze is that it does not last very long. It'll usually be gone by the next time you wash your car, or even sooner. Also, applying the wax on top of the glaze means that when this glaze goes, it'll take your wax with it, as it doesn't bond to the sealant or paint for as long as a wax will.

    Just my way of doing things, there are many ways to skin a cat.
    I completely agree with you and I should have added that not all steps are necessary or some of the steps can be tweaked of omitted.

    For example, some people do an IPA then wash, some people do an IPA wi****wn, without washing then apply a sealant, some people use mineral spirits. I'll try to explain each step as an unbiased enthusiast at times when it's needed.

    Also, the only reason I don't use the word compound is because there really isn't an industry standard for the difference between a compound or polish. Some call their compound a correcting polish, etc...

    If that makes sense...thanks for pointing that out.
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  29. #89
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    Step 2- Decontamination of the paint

    This step arguably isn’t necessary, but is recommended. After you wash the car and it’s still wet you will spray a decontamination/iron out product directly onto the wet paint panel by panel. These products open the pores of the paint and fight the metallic particles beneath the surface as well as above the surface. The reason you may want to do this step? These particles over time can pit the paint.

    This step is very easy. You spray on a wet panel, watch it turn purple as its reacting and rinse off. Some people like to wipe the surface with a microfiber towel and that is up to you.

    Some products to consider:
    1. CarPRO Trix
    2. CarPRO Iron X
    3. Wolf’s Chemicals Decon Gel
    4. Auto Finesse Iron Out
    5. Multiple Decon Wheel Cleaners (clear coat safe)…almost all modern factory wheels are clear coated just like your car, so these are safe.


    This step mainly rids your paint of particles you can’t see and makes the next step WAY easier (this does fight rail dust). I believe all of these products also degrade your sealant and/or wax as well. So, once again you want to work forward.


    There are decontamination kits, but the 2 I know of aren't completely safe for the user. I'd rather use something that I know won't burn through my skin or wont collapse my lungs if I breathe it in (exaggeration).


    Next step----->Clay Bar
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    Originally Posted by bbmod2 View Post
    Anyone ever use lemon pledge on their bike or carbon fiber bits? I remember reading a while back that it helps keep the sine and makes it easier to keep clean. Not sure if true.
    I use Pledge on my helmet in the past. Carbon fiber gets wax if I have time or some Motul Shine and Go.


    in on this.

    Dude with the Lowe's buckets: did you get Grit Guards to fit into those properly??


    Anyone looking for a cheap foam gun check this one out:

    http://www.amazon.com/Gilmour-75QGFM...lmour+foam+gun

    pretty much the same as the branded versions but $20 cheaper. Multi ratio as well.
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