Need help with bouldering workout!

[AceLegion]

So I'm starting bouldering again, had a bit of a break from it... And was wondering if I can focus my weekly workout for bouldering. Key things needed is to be able to lift my own body weight, so wondering what variations of pull ups I could use. Also Grip strength and a strong core.

If someone could give me an idea of what my workouts should consist of and rep range etc that would be great!

-Thanks Ace

[MuscleTechIan]

AceLegion,

The two best pull up variations I can think of that will help increase your grip strength would be doing them off of rings and with towels.

Maybe start with ring pull ups as they're a little easier and then work your way to towel pull ups.

[luckystr1ke]

The few times I've been climbing/bouldering the really good guys were exceptionally lean and didn't have much muscle mass on at all, and they all did a LOT of climbing. Intuitively, pull ups using finger boards and twisting pull up bars would be the best. A big focus on forearm, bicep, core and back strength would probably be the best way to train. When I was in one of the best bouldering centres in the UK, they had loads of finger boards, rotating pull up bars, but only a few rusty DBs and BBs.


A quick google reveals this blog which seems to have a few solid posts on training for climbing strength: http://www.climbthatwall.com/


Personally, however, I think unless you are already at a high level and training the activity (bouldering) regularly weights will be pretty useless. Until you get to that level, doing the activity lots will be the best. Same goes for most sports.

[AceLegion]

AceLegion,

The two best pull up variations I can think of that will help increase your grip strength would be doing them off of rings and with towels.

Maybe start with ring pull ups as they're a little easier and then work your way to towel pull ups.

Cheers for this, used the towel pull ups in my routine today... 5x10 felt my forearms working!

The few times I've been climbing/bouldering the really good guys were exceptionally lean and didn't have much muscle mass on at all, and they all did a LOT of climbing. Intuitively, pull ups using finger boards and twisting pull up bars would be the best. A big focus on forearm, bicep, core and back strength would probably be the best way to train. When I was in one of the best bouldering centres in the UK, they had loads of finger boards, rotating pull up bars, but only a few rusty DBs and BBs.


A quick google reveals this blog which seems to have a few solid posts on training for climbing strength:


Personally, however, I think unless you are already at a high level and training the activity (bouldering) regularly weights will be pretty useless. Until you get to that level, doing the activity lots will be the best. Same goes for most sports.

Cheers for the link, I did look around myself but didn't come across it! Anyways bookmarked because it has some really useful information!

-Acelegion

[KBKB]

Take a look at these links at Metolius' site:

http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/trai...simulator.html

http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/trai...de_10_min.html

If you're restricted to using more conventional gym equipment, do some farmer's walks with heavy dumbbells. It'll be even more grip intensive if you put Fat Gripz or the like on the dumbbells. Something else you can do is attach some pinch blocks to dumbbells or kettlebells and do carries using the pinch blocks.

I've also found one armed kettlebell swings to be grip intensive. (It's also great for conditioning.) Another kettlebell movement that'll really work the grip is the bottoms up press. Although there is a certain amount of balance required for this movement, you also need to crush grip the handle. I like the thicker handled (1.5" diameter) kettlebells for practicing this movement.

Finally, it seems kind of weird, but I've had good luck with using dexterity ball training for improving grip endurance for rock climbing. I first learned about this type of training in John Brookfield's book, Mastery of Hand Strength. (I believe he discusses towel pull ups in that book too.) That book is, in my opinion, well worth owning.