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  1. #1
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    My plyo box project:

    Decided to take plyometrics seriously this summer and start doing it systematically. However as plyo boxes aren't too cheap I've decided to build my own.
    I found an awesome program called Google Sketchup which is a simple 3D modelling tool and I made my designs in there.

    I need some feedback on my designs, particularly on what to improve and where:

    1) Plyo box 1:
    Dimensions are 60x80cm for the top and 110cm high. It needs to be durable enough to take my 100kg pouncing onto it.
    Everything will be made of wood.

    General overview:

    Basically the system revolves around 4 larger upright posts onto which everything else will attach. The base will be connected both ways with boards and the foundation boards will be a bit longer than the rest of the box for additional stability. I can also put some rocks on the foundation boards should I need to ground it better.


    Where I started having doubts was the top part where I came up with two different approaches:

    A:

    wordpress image upload

    Four boards cross over the large upright posts to form the base of the top platform. These boards will be supported by both the top faces of the posts (as seen in above picture) as well as metal connector plates on the bottom as seen in the next pic:



    B: (design here shown with the final top platform in place)

    Here the connections at the top of the upright posts will be made by just 2 boards, connected both by connector plates and screws going into the posts.

    Following this I will put a platform out of boards onto the very top, attached with screws (or nails):


    I'm thinking perhaps I should put more reinforcing boards onto the four main uprights to make the whole thing more stable.

    Second part to follow (due to image limit)...
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  2. #2
    Registered User matjusm's Avatar
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    And the other box proposal:
    Same dimensions as above box.
    2) Plyo box B:
    General overview:
    image uploading

    For this I would first construct walls of boards as such:


    Among other things, these boards will be glued to each other for added stability

    There will actually be four walls of boards, and (4th wall missing for illustrative purposes) will fit together as such (they'll be screwed to each other)


    Inside there I will put sturdy upright posts which will be attached via screws to the outside walls:


    And the fourth wall with its uprights:


    Onto this I will then put the top boards (or possibly a sheet of plywood) and voila, box finished.

    3) A simple jumping hurdle, I want to make a few of these in the 50-80cm height range.


    So workout equipment engineers, do you have any recommendations for me as to what I should improve?
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    Platinum Member keyboardworkout's Avatar
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    You don't want a lip around the top. That is just something for your toe to catch when you are short.
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    Registered User matjusm's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by keyboardworkout View Post
    You don't want a lip around the top. That is just something for your toe to catch when you are short.
    I seem to have lost command of the English language because I can't for the life of me decipher what you're saying. Rephrase please?
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    Platinum Member keyboardworkout's Avatar
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    In this picture it appears that the top extends out over the sides leaving a "lip" that you could catch the toe of your shoe on if your jump is a little short.

    For the same reason on the first design you should build a shield around the top so your toes cannot end up under it.
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    Registered User matjusm's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by keyboardworkout View Post
    In this picture it appears that the top extends out over the sides leaving a "lip" that you could catch the toe of your shoe on if your jump is a little short.

    For the same reason on the first design you should build a shield around the top so your toes cannot end up under it.
    Oh ok, thanks. Thats just the kind of advice I'm looking for. Anyway the sketches here are a little rough, I'm still not that good with Sketchup.
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  7. #7
    Registered User KBKB's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by matjusm View Post
    Four boards cross over the large upright posts to form the base of the top platform. These boards will be supported by both the top faces of the posts (as seen in above picture) as well as metal connector plates on the bottom as seen in the next pic:

    I've used metal brackets similar to the ones shown in the past. Over time, I would expect them to bend with you jumping onto and off of the box. I would dispense with the metal connector plates altogether.
    B: (design here shown with the final top platform in place)

    Here the connections at the top of the upright posts will be made by just 2 boards, connected both by connector plates and screws going into the posts.

    Following this I will put a platform out of boards onto the very top, attached with screws (or nails):


    I'm thinking perhaps I should put more reinforcing boards onto the four main uprights to make the whole thing more stable.
    Consider using 3/4" plywood for the top. If you use plywood for substantial portions of the sides (in addition to the vertical members that you already have), it will do a good job of providing the bracing needed by your box. You may not wish to cover the entire side with it as that would be heavy. But do consider covering the sides six to nine inches down from the top. This will not only provide considerable bracing, but will also help prevent you from catching a toe under the upper part of the box in case you should biff on one of your jumps.

    I would also use a four to six inch wide strip of plywood (or just ordinary wood) near (but not directly at) the bottom to provide additional bracing.

    Here are a few photos of one of the boxes that I built for doing hip belt squats. It measures 15 inches high x 30 inches long x 18 inches deep.









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  8. #8
    Still lifting pumping4life's Avatar
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    The 2nd pic is a better design, but as already stated, you don't want a lip. The 1st design would be unstable without some solid crossmembers.
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    Registered User matjusm's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by pumping4life View Post
    The 2nd pic is a better design, but as already stated, you don't want a lip. The 1st design would be unstable without some solid crossmembers.
    Yeah, thats what I've been thinking. And if I'm adding more crossmembers to the first one, it'll just end up turning into the second design anyway.

    KBKB: yes I have thought of putting some plywood on the top instead of just boards. In fact I could even try making the entire outer structure of the box from plywood though that could end up being rather heavy.
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  10. #10
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    Originally Posted by matjusm View Post
    KBKB: yes I have thought of putting some plywood on the top instead of just boards. In fact I could even try making the entire outer structure of the box from plywood though that could end up being rather heavy.
    Yeah, I agree it'd be heavy if you made it all out of plywood as I did with my box. But consider for a moment building a box like I did but with 2x4s that don't stop at the bottom of the plywood, but continue downward to make it as tall as you need it to be. The plywood sides don't need to extend down as far as the ones that I made.

    You'd add some wood cross members near the bottom of the structure to better brace the box.

    The one downside with this approach is that it's going to be top heavy. You'll definitely need to weigh it down somehow.

    With regard to those 90 degree metal brackets, I can post a photo if you'd like showing how they can bend over time. (I have a 4x4 that I laid down on the floor of my garage. I attached two 2x4s to that 4x4 with 90 degree brackets. We slide the thing up against the wall so that my truck's (lorry's) tires (tyres) hit the 4x4 when I drive into the garage. When I feel that bit of resistance driving in, I stop because if I go any further I'll run into the wall. Anyway, those 90 degree brackets have not faired well. I occasionally have to kick the 2x4s back to being roughly perpendicular with the 4x4.
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  11. #11
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    Originally Posted by keyboardworkout View Post
    That's an excellent article.

    I like the fact that the base of those boxes is bigger than the top. Gives them more stability.
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    I drew some plans for my boxes the other day. I don't have a picture but I will try and descibe it.

    Build two squares out of 2x4"s. The squares should be the size you want the top of the box to be. They should be the same size. Then cut 4 2x4"s into the height you want the box minus the width of your plywood. Now attach the 4 2x4"s to the first square on the 4 inside corners. So the square sits flat on the ground and the 2x4"s are going to extend straight up. Then attach the other square to the top of the 2x4"s. Then nail the plywood to the top square.

    I build skateboard ramps like this when I was younger and they held up so I think it should work. And 2x4"s are cheaper and lighter than plywood.
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    Originally Posted by KBKB View Post
    That's an excellent article.

    I like the fact that the base of those boxes is bigger than the top. Gives them more stability.
    Also seems like it would keep you from cheese grating your shins on a missed jump.

    I've always thought about building those cause they seemed like one of the best designs out there IMO.
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    Registered User matjusm's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by KBKB View Post
    Yeah, I agree it'd be heavy if you made it all out of plywood as I did with my box. But consider for a moment building a box like I did but with 2x4s that don't stop at the bottom of the plywood, but continue downward to make it as tall as you need it to be. The plywood sides don't need to extend down as far as the ones that I made.

    You'd add some wood cross members near the bottom of the structure to better brace the box.

    The one downside with this approach is that it's going to be top heavy. You'll definitely need to weigh it down somehow.
    So basically you recommend building box number 2 in my design proposals? Because thats the one that has the boards going all the way down (box number 1 is pretty unstable with so few boards as in my original design so I'd have to reinforce it anyway and as such I might as well cover all the sides with boards. I'd rather have a bit of engineering overkill than build a flimsy structure.
    I think I'll add some boards that protrude outwards to the sides at the bottom so that I can put some rocks or other heavy objects on them to anchor the box more firmly to the ground when I'm doing my jumping. Like so:



    Anyway one more thing that has got me thinking is whether these side boards should be offering any structural support to the top platform or if that is all to come from the uprights inside the box.
    I was thinking of setting it up like this:


    Whereby I put another set of boards on top of the uprights inside the box so that they're completely level with the outside wall, here's another image of what I mean:


    I would drill the top boards (or plywood) only to the two boards running across inside of the box but the cover will still have some additional structural support from the side walls. Would this be something thats necessary? I hope you can understand what I mean by this.
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    Originally Posted by matjusm View Post
    So basically you recommend building box number 2 in my design proposals? Because thats the one that has the boards going all the way down (box number 1 is pretty unstable with so few boards as in my original design so I'd have to reinforce it anyway and as such I might as well cover all the sides with boards. I'd rather have a bit of engineering overkill than build a flimsy structure.
    I think I'll add some boards that protrude outwards to the sides at the bottom so that I can put some rocks or other heavy objects on them to anchor the box more firmly to the ground when I'm doing my jumping. Like so:
    This is fine, though depending upon the type and thickness of wood used, it could turn out to be just as heavy as plywood. You will have to pay attention too to how you fasten those various side boards to the uprights. If you were to use one screw per board end (with no glue), I would expect this to be a very rickety structure. I'll say more on this matter later.

    I also like the design of the box in that crossfit article. The somewhat larger base gives it a lot of stability without the need for additional weight at the bottom. (I just wanted to mention this again in case you'd missed it. I'll confine the rest of my remarks to your design.)

    Anyway one more thing that has got me thinking is whether these side boards should be offering any structural support to the top platform or if that is all to come from the uprights inside the box.

    ...

    Whereby I put another set of boards on top of the uprights inside the box so that they're completely level with the outside wall, here's another image of what I mean:
    ...
    I would drill the top boards (or plywood) only to the two boards running across inside of the box but the cover will still have some additional structural support from the side walls. Would this be something thats necessary? I hope you can understand what I mean by this.
    Assuming that you have the rest of the structure securely put together using glue and wood screws, I think it would be sufficient to attach the top to the lower portion of the box using just those top two boards that you have in mind. That said, there's not much downside in using screws (and glue) to attach the top to the topmost side boards. You just have to be precise with drilling the pilot holes for the screws.

    I cannot emphasize enough how important it is to use glue when building this project. Use of metal screws are important too, but do a bit of research and you'll find that certain kinds of glued wood joints are significantly stronger than joints where metal fasteners are used. So far, you're using butt joints for everything, so it makes sense to reinforce it with screws.

    I would recommend gluing those various side boards together too between the long edges. If you have access to a router, consider using a tongue and groove joint for joining those boards. You might also be able to find lumber with tongue and groove joints already milled along the long edges of the boards. It's useful to walk through your local lumber store to see what's available. (Over here in the States, we'd go to Home Depot and Lowe's. I'm not sure what you have over there...) Anyway, for those side boards, take a look at the wood flooring section. You might find some flooring with a tongue and groove or some similar joint (lap joint perhaps) that might be ideal for your purposes. (Or you could use plywood - you might be able to get away with using 3/8" plywood for the sides. This thinner plywood would weigh less, and be less work too.)
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