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  1. #1
    Registered User consolesolution's Avatar
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    make your own tricep rope or cable attachments?

    i just set up my home gym thing that has cables on it.

    I went to academy to pick up a few things that i normally use at the gym,

    single cable d bar thing
    tricep rope
    v bar

    when i got there, it would have been over $100 to get all that.

    i mean the tricep rope is just a damn piece of rope,

    has anyone sucessfully made thier own?

    i figure i can get the metal attachments and rope from lowes for at least half the price.

    anyone ever go this route?

    or will it really hinder performance that much if I make my own?
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  2. #2
    Nothing To See Here cgc's Avatar
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    Your biggest issue will be securing the ends of the rope so they do not unwind/frey...

    You can either solve this with some electrical tape which eventually the glue will dry up. Or, you can go with some type of cheap truck bed-liner material to dip the ends of the rope in. I even think you can get some rubber coating that you can use to dip the handles of tools in to accomplish the same thing.

    Once that's done, getting a fastener to connect the rope to the cable....grab a carabiner and look up the hardware section of Home Depot and you should be able to find something pretty easily.
    "Hard work beats talent when talent doesn't work hard"

    The more I workout at commercial gyms, the more I hate commercial gyms.

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  3. #3
    Registered User consolesolution's Avatar
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    hell yeah, that is what i figured. kinda fun making your own stuff too.

    thanks!
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  4. #4
    Protein bar nightcap? desslok's Avatar
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    Get nylon rope and just use a flame to melt the ends up.
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  5. #5
    Registered User TheNextGohan's Avatar
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    or buy it on amazon for way less.
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  6. #6
    Nothing To See Here cgc's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by desslok View Post
    Get nylon rope and just use a flame to melt the ends up.
    I almost suggested that, but I've always hated the way it looks/feels.....that's just me though.
    "Hard work beats talent when talent doesn't work hard"

    The more I workout at commercial gyms, the more I hate commercial gyms.

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  7. #7
    Registered User consolesolution's Avatar
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    something like this
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  8. #8
    Registered User Keetman's Avatar
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    OP, I don't think this matters a bit. I don't see how you could wonder whether this will hinder your performance or not. Its just a rope...you're just pulling some weight down with it.

    Its a preference thing.

    I bought a commercial black rope pulldown with two big rubber ends. I just like the way it feels better and don't mind a bit that it cost me $20 or so.

    Here's one for about $21 shipped: http://cgi.ebay.com/Tricep-Rope-Pres...item53e6ea1a97


    It just makes the exercise feel like you're using the right equipment. I prefer it for my gym when I'm the one making the buys. We have home made stuff at work though and its just fine too.

    Its your gym man, make you happy.
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  9. #9
    Registered User consolesolution's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by Keetman View Post
    OP, I don't think this matters a bit. I don't see how you could wonder whether this will hinder your performance or not. Its just a rope...you're just pulling some weight down with it.

    Its a preference thing.

    I bought a commercial black rope pulldown with two big rubber ends. I just like the way it feels better and don't mind a bit that it cost me $20 or so.

    Here's one for about $21 shipped: http://cgi.ebay.com/Tricep-Rope-Pres...item53e6ea1a97


    It just makes the exercise feel like you're using the right equipment. I prefer it for my gym when I'm the one making the buys. We have home made stuff at work though and its just fine too.

    Its your gym man, make you happy.
    yeah that was my train of thought, its a rope, why should i pay 30$ for a damn rope.

    21$ is a little better though.

    thanks for the tip.
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  10. #10
    Unregistered User Cleveland33's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by cgc View Post
    I almost suggested that, but I've always hated the way it looks/feels.....that's just me though.
    It's pretty simple to take a small string and tie off the ends of rope to prevent fraying. I am sure you can find it if you google it.
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  11. #11
    Registered User captainmorgan0's Avatar
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  12. #12
    Registered User Keetman's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by captainmorgan0 View Post
    Not sure where the OP is. That company is in Canada and for shipping to my place that rope would cost $30 and take up to two weeks to arrive.

    He may be in Canada though, just clarifying.
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  13. #13
    Registered User captainmorgan0's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by Keetman View Post
    Not sure where the OP is. That company is in Canada and for shipping to my place that rope would cost $30 and take up to two weeks to arrive.

    He may be in Canada though, just clarifying.
    I'm sure you can find a similar price in the US, which would make it pointless to make your own rope.
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  14. #14
    Registered User Keetman's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by captainmorgan0 View Post
    I'm sure you can find a similar price in the US, which would make it pointless to make your own rope.


    I agree...which is why I linked one a couple of posts down for $21 including shipping to the states .
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  15. #15
    ⊙▂⊙ cyde's Avatar
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    The cheapest I've seen was $20 shipped over at Amazon for a rope attachment with rubber ends. DIY would be the cheapest option if you leave it minimal (tie a knot and singe the ends). If you start buying rubber paint/compounds to make it feel and look nicer, then you might as well just buy a quality rope for $20.

    As far as cheap attachments go, try Newyorkbarbells.com. I bought 2 single handles & a revolving tricep bar for my pulley machine for $40 shipped off their Ebay store. I even sold the extra handle for $10 off CL to cover some of the cost. It needed a little grease, but I'm satisfied with the purchase and it suits my home gym needs.
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  16. #16
    Registered User KBKB's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by cyde View Post
    The cheapest I've seen was $20 shipped over at Amazon for a rope attachment with rubber ends. DIY would be the cheapest option if you leave it minimal (tie a knot and singe the ends). If you start buying rubber paint/compounds to make it feel and look nicer, then you might as well just buy a quality rope for $20.
    I agree with this. The first problem is that you have to obtain a short length of thick rope. Unless you can find a scrap somewhere, I think you'll end up paying a lot for a much longer length. Reading some of the earlier posts, I was starting to get into the spirit of the thing and was going to suggest using my favorite quick setting epoxy, JB Kwik for fixing the ends, but then I remembered that it costs something like $7 for the stuff at my local hardware store.

    My DIY projects frequently end up costing a lot more than if I had just purchased something off the shelf. But, a lot of times, that's not nearly as much fun. An example: I built my daughter an alarm clock several years ago. It uses 132 LEDs of three different colors to display the time to the second in a pseudo-analog format. She was having trouble telling time using analog clocks; I figured that this project would help her with that and provide me with an interesting technical challenge. I have no idea what it cost me to build it; don't really want to know.
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  17. #17
    Registered User Keetman's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by KBKB View Post
    I agree with this. The first problem is that you have to obtain a short length of thick rope. Unless you can find a scrap somewhere, I think you'll end up paying a lot for a much longer length. Reading some of the earlier posts, I was starting to get into the spirit of the thing and was going to suggest using my favorite quick setting epoxy, JB Kwik for fixing the ends, but then I remembered that it costs something like $7 for the stuff at my local hardware store.

    My DIY projects frequently end up costing a lot more than if I had just purchased something off the shelf. But, a lot of times, that's not nearly as much fun. An example: I built my daughter an alarm clock several years ago. It uses 132 LEDs of three different colors to display the time to the second in a pseudo-analog format. She was having trouble telling time using analog clocks; I figured that this project would help her with that and provide me with an interesting technical challenge. I have no idea what it cost me to build it; don't really want to know.


    Building something can be cool too. I made my rings out of pvc I heated and wrapped around a paint can. They weren't super cheaper than commercial rings and they certainly weren't as pretty, but I enjoyed the project.
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  18. #18
    Registered User KBKB's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by Keetman View Post
    Building something can be cool too. I made my rings out of pvc I heated and wrapped around a paint can. They weren't super cheaper than commercial rings and they certainly weren't as pretty, but I enjoyed the project.
    I'd like to see what they look like. Do you have a link to a photo handy?
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  19. #19
    Registered User Keetman's Avatar
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    I knew you were going to ask that:










    Those are before I actually finished them. I ended up wrapping them with tape, then using a type of tennis racket grip sleeve to make them more comfortable. They work for what they are, although I haven't done much with them in awhile.
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    ⊙▂⊙ cyde's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by Keetman View Post
    I knew you were going to ask that:



    [IMG]http://i448.photobucket.com/albums/qq203/Keetman/Misc%20Equipment/Ringsoncounter.jpg[/IG]


    [IMG]http://i448.photobucket.com/albums/qq203/Keetman/Misc%20Equipment/Ringsfrompullupbar.jpg[/IG]



    Those are before I actually finished them. I ended up wrapping them with tape, then using a type of tennis racket grip sleeve to make them more comfortable. They work for what they are, although I haven't done much with them in awhile.
    Nice! I thought about making some rings, but I ended up going with a DIY TRX-esque suspension system made from nylon webbing, camlocks, and pvc.
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    Registered User KBKB's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by Keetman View Post
    Nice. When you first described it, I was wondering if or how the ends were connected and how the rings connected to an overhead anchor. I like your solution of running a chain through the pipe. It gives the pipe support so as to make breakage less likely and, even if breakage were to occur, you wouldn't suddenly have the handle giving way as there's something very strong (the chain) underneath.

    Edit: I attached images of the clock that I built, but did not put them inline...
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  22. #22
    Registered User Keetman's Avatar
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    That clock is interesting. That's a little out of my expertise though .

    Do you buy the electronic components that run the LED's as a clock, or do you have to program it how you want it to function?

    My question may be dumb, not sure, I don't know enough about that to even know if it is. I do however think its really cool that you could put that together and make it function.
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  23. #23
    Registered User consolesolution's Avatar
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    awesome stuff guys

    but hey if you want a good tricep rope for 12 bucks!
    http://www.walmart.com/ip/Gold-s-Gym...-Rope/14894518

    going get it tomarrow. yeeah buddy!
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  24. #24
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    I'd be surprised if it was possible to beat that deal without using Craigslist or finding a liquidator. Good stuff.



    Just fyi.....I have been recently using that device for a grip trainer too. I put it on the top pulley of my lat pulldown and pull the rope toward me so one of the black stops ends up at the eye. Then I step away from the machine, hold the other stop with just my hand and pull it back toward the shoulder of the arm I'm holding it with (almost like pulling a compound bow string back if that makes sense).

    Anyway, it doesn't take a lot of weight and it seems to work pretty good. Just thought that tip would go along with not only the rope, but also the diy vein of this thread.

    Good luck.
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  25. #25
    Registered User KBKB's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by Keetman View Post
    That clock is interesting. That's a little out of my expertise though .

    Do you buy the electronic components that run the LED's as a clock, or do you have to program it how you want it to function?

    My question may be dumb, not sure, I don't know enough about that to even know if it is. I do however think its really cool that you could put that together and make it function.
    That's a good question - not dumb at all.

    I'm a software engineer who, as a kid, had woodworking and electronics as hobbies. I'm much better at programming than I am at designing and building electronic circuits, and I'm better at that (more patient) than I am at woodworking. (Some of the corners didn't come out quite right when I glued the case together. I find that aspect of woodworking to be frustrating in that you sometimes just have one shot at getting it right; with programming and electronic design, you can try and try again if you don't get something quite right the first time.)

    I used a Microchip PIC16F887 microcontroller in that clock project. It's often used for automotive and other embedded applications. I did all the programming myself.

    One of several interesting things about the project - to me anyway - was figuring out how to control 132 LEDs (plus an alarm / nightlight LED and the AM/PM indicator at the bottom left of the clock) when the microcontroller that I used has only 40 pins. I ended up arranging the LEDs in an 11x12 matrix (even though the clock face doesn't look like a matrix) and, therefore, used 23 pins of the device to drive the LEDs. Using a technique called multiplexing and, relying on the human eye's persistence of vision, it is possible to light the hour indicator for a small fraction of a second, then turn it off, then light up the minute indicator for the same amount of time, followed by the second indicator. If you do this rapidly and repeatedly, it appears to our eyes that the relevant LEDs are glowing constantly.

    The other two LEDs are driven directly from separate pins on the microcontroller. I used a PWM output though on the alarm/nightlight LED to control the intensity of that light. If you twist that black knob on the back without depressing it first, it'll change the intensity of that LED. At full brightness, it lights up that corner of the room pretty well. When fully dim, you can barely see it in the dark. Anyway, the idea here is that if you want the clock to double as a nightlight, you just turn on the alarm and rotate that knob if the brightness isn't to your liking.

    That knob I just mentioned is, I think, pretty cool too, in that it allows you to adjust the alarm or time setting (and even the drift setting) by simply turning the knob. This makes it easy to back up when you overshoot the desired time and makes it very quick to set the alarm or time of day. Pressing the knob in once puts the clock in alarm setting mode. Pressing it and the red button simultaneously puts it in clock setting mode. And, I think, but haven't used it in a while, that holding them in for an extended time, puts the clock in drift adjustment setting mode. You use that latter mode if the clock is running a bit too fast or too slow. Using that setting, it's possible to set the clock to stay accurate within a few seconds a year.

    That little 9 volt battery serves as a battery backup. There are two parallel Schottky diodes which mostly prevent current from flowing from the switching ( = efficient) power supply back into the battery. But, actually, there is a small amount of what's called reverse leakage current that flows (backwards) through the diodes to the battery. (I used two on purpose so as to double the amount of leakage current.) This serves as a trickle charger which very slowly recharges the alkaline battery in the event of a power outage (or even if there's not a power outage). It works great; we've had a number of power outages over the years and I think only one of them was of sufficient duration that we had to reset the clock.

    There's other cool stuff too, but I've rambled on about it enough.

    Cliff note answer. I didn't buy off the shelf clock parts and hook them up; I did all the programming myself using a microcontroller.

    Photos inline this time:



    Last edited by KBKB; 04-13-2011 at 08:07 PM.
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    Nothing To See Here cgc's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by KBKB View Post

    Photos inline this time:




    Do you guys ever see a post from someone that makes you realize just how dumb you really are....lol.

    Holy crap...
    "Hard work beats talent when talent doesn't work hard"

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    Originally Posted by cgc View Post
    Do you guys ever see a post from someone that makes you realize just how dumb you really are....lol.

    Holy crap...

    Lol no joke.
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    Yea, CGC....I saw what he'd done in his first post and felt a little inadequate with my project compared to his. So....I asked a question that I thought made sense, maybe not too dumb, and what does he do.......takes it up a notch.

    S'all good....I don't know how most of my coolest toys function either, so whatever.....we need guys like him to keep giving us cool stuff!



    KBKB.....nice work man, I am certainly impressed.
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    Originally Posted by Keetman View Post
    Yea, CGC....I saw what he'd done in his first post and felt a little inadequate with my project compared to his. So....I asked a question that I thought made sense, maybe not too dumb, and what does he do.......takes it up a notch. .

    Before I read anything I thought he modified a "light bright" for some reason and thought he was the man....after I saw exactly what he did I feel like a chimp that had just had a lobotomy...
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    Originally Posted by Keetman View Post
    KBKB.....nice work man, I am certainly impressed.
    Thanks!
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