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  1. #91
    Registered User irongrandpa's Avatar
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    The one thing that I don't want in a plate is any flat outside edges. Well , a second thing also, I want the diameter to be standard.
    Now OK for Sig line to be a novel
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  2. #92
    Registered User morebarbell's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by irongrandpa View Post
    The one thing that I don't want in a plate is any flat outside edges. Well , a second thing also, I want the diameter to be standard.
    ^^

    Plus I would add round edges or at least a chamfer (not sharp). And the plates should fit well together and on the bar.
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  3. #93
    Registered User morebarbell's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by dieselmike View Post
    ...Now how many of you just went to the Cemco web site for the pictures? Don't lie...
    Those who did were rewarded...

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  4. #94
    Registered User jormone's Avatar
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    Grips that hands fit in. Revolver grips look good but I prefer the omezs for usability.

    Accurate. Round. Symmetric. I do not like the York G2 look.

    Easy to slide on/off a bar, but without much slop.

    I do not like ugly branding/large lettering in a contrasting color that visually sticks out. People only like that if the brand is long established and they have some emotional attachment to it.
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  5. #95
    0.0 chadsalt's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by Domicron View Post
    i've not had an issue picking up plates that are flat on the ground.
    No wonder, with nearly 17k posts your digit strength would approach world strongman class.........
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  6. #96
    Registered User bajabill's Avatar
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    I just bought some Intek grip plates, I like the grip design, the hole tolerance, I wish they had standard OD and more of a flat to sit on the ground.

    But, the accuracy is terrible. So bad that I need to keep track of them. I am not sure I will keep them because of the effort needed to keep the weight totals straight. IMO, if its too hard to make a 45lb plate, you should not be in the weight plate making business.
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  7. #97
    Always Learning dieselmike's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by bajabill View Post
    IMO, if its too hard to make a 45lb plate, you should not be in the weight plate making business.
    Absolutely. A weight should weigh what it says on it. I don't get this whole "2%" accuracy that guys are mentioning here as being acceptable. If that's the case label your plates ~45lbs, not 45 lbs.
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  8. #98
    Registered User dukenukem7777's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by morebarbell View Post
    I didn't mean to insinuate that you want something poor. LOL. But your questions were misleading. It's very common on forums that people ask questions in a way to generate discussion rather than get to the point. But the best answers are given when the right questions are asked.

    Everything is a matter of degree. The Body Solid iron grip plates, the Hampton HOG iron grip plates, and the Troy VTX grip plates are basically fancy consumer level plates. There are also Weider and Gold's Gym grip plates.

    Part of the quality is in the iron used (Troy lists their iron on their website). Part of the quality is in the casting process. And then there's the machining and painting. Can you share images of the products that you are considering?? That would be fun to see.

    I bought an entire crate of brand new in boxes Ivanko revolvers and I've seen many others and I can't find a single lathe mark on them. The center holes are machined. If the other surfaces are machined, I suspect they must be ground rather than lathed. The matching change (OM) are clearly machined on all surfaces. The revolvers are very nice though. Cemco's (The original Cemco company. I'm not familiar with the new Cemco) Jade grip plates are actually lathed on the surfaces.

    Cemco Power Grip plates are roughly ground with sharp edges compared to the smoother surface on the Ivanko revolvers.

    I like seeing the conversation range widely for this topic. Sometimes I learn things, or learn about a product people want that isn't offered. My ideas of what to offer evolve based on the conversation here combined with what I know sells, so it's definitely helpful.

    I don't have anything to show yet for designs because when it comes to overseas manufacturing, you've got 3 options:

    1) You can buy something "off the shelf" that they have already made or already have designs for.
    2) You can customize a design they have and tell them what to change.
    3) You can create something new and get them to make whatever you want.

    I'm not sure what option we'll do for plates. They'll probably have the basic shape of the plate, but it looks like the details matter if we want to create something that is known for quality. The comparison between the two plates you showed is interesting. I'm guessing they would grind these plates down by hand to make them look as nice as those revolvers. Then the powder-coating is something we'd have to experiment with too.

    I might post some pictures of off-the-shelf designs and see what you guys would change. Sometimes it's not even the design, it's getting them to adhere to the quality standards you set.

    Originally Posted by Hardgains88 View Post
    Actually duke, your right on the money. Why not do a rounded cut out type that has a little of the revolver look. I think one of the reasons the revolvers look so nice is they don't have sharp edges in the design like so many other grip plates.
    I tend to agree that in plates, because of the vintage angle, what we like would not be a good indication of the general equipment buying public.
    That said, this does not cross over to other equipment and is a unique outlier with plates only. We're still collectively on the money with benches, bars, and most other equipment
    Yeah it's tricky.
    Originally Posted by dieselmike View Post
    Absolutely. A weight should weigh what it says on it. I don't get this whole "2%" accuracy that guys are mentioning here as being acceptable. If that's the case label your plates ~45lbs, not 45 lbs.
    My thoughts as well, but the basic standard quoted overseas is 2%, and even that is optimistic. To get a better tolerance, you have to pay more and work with a factory that has its **** together with capability to match whatever standard you want. Unless you want to pay through the nose, your plates won't be exact, but they can be close enough that most people won't care if they're a few ounces off here and there.
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  9. #99
    Registered User dumb.bell's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by bajabill View Post
    But, the accuracy is terrible.
    Mine are pretty accurate. How far off are yours?
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  10. #100
    0.0 chadsalt's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by bajabill View Post
    I just bought some Intek grip plates, I like the grip design, the hole tolerance, I wish they had standard OD and more of a flat to sit on the ground.

    But, the accuracy is terrible. So bad that I need to keep track of them. I am not sure I will keep them because of the effort needed to keep the weight totals straight. IMO, if its too hard to make a 45lb plate, you should not be in the weight plate making business.


    Originally Posted by dieselmike View Post
    Absolutely. A weight should weigh what it says on it. I don't get this whole "2%" accuracy that guys are mentioning here as being acceptable. If that's the case label your plates ~45lbs, not 45 lbs.
    Its all about the $$ gentlemen. Obviously it's cheaper to dump out of the mold into a box than it is to weigh and correct each plate. A 45# plate that is 44-46# is not going to cause me grief either way.....unless I paid big $ for it.

    I've had cheap plates from .60# to free, all of them were reasonably close. If you want to know what they weigh a bathroom scale will get you close. You can then either replace, pair accordingly, correct with fractional plates, or not worry about it.

    If you need to know there are always calibrated plates for the relatively exorbitant prices.
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  11. #101
    Registered User bajabill's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by dumb.bell View Post
    Mine are pretty accurate. How far off are yours?
    47.35, 46.45 - the heavy one is +5%
    27.0, 26.3 - that is +8%
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  12. #102
    barbell junkie thejosef's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by bajabill View Post
    47.35, 46.45 - the heavy one is +5%
    27.0, 26.3 - that is +8%
    I'm assuming your scale is pretty accurate. If so, that's definitely disappointing, and unacceptable to me.
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  13. #103
    Registered User dumb.bell's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by bajabill View Post
    47.35, 46.45 - the heavy one is +5%
    27.0, 26.3 - that is +8%
    At least they aren't underweight.
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  14. #104
    Registered User bajabill's Avatar
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    I just keep track and add 2 x 1.25 platemates, and my bar is light, to get me up to the next 5lb increment.


    I got tired of using a bathroom scale, it weighs me consistently, but I don't have much confidence in it weighing the plates accurately or repeat ably. So I bought this scale, it is fast, easy and repeats the readings everytime.

    http://www.amazon.com/American-Weigh..._detailpages00
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  15. #105
    Registered User bajabill's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by irongrandpa View Post
    The one thing that I don't want in a plate is any flat outside edges. Well , a second thing also, I want the diameter to be standard.
    Originally Posted by morebarbell View Post
    ^^

    Plus I would add round edges or at least a chamfer (not sharp). And the plates should fit well together and on the bar.

    what are you two's thoughts on this,

    I understand the sharp corner and a rounded corner around the perimeter will solve that.

    But I like the flat so the plate has more surface area to contact the floor/pad.
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  16. #106
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    Holding strong on my stance, deep dish old school plates with rounded lip. Have your marketing team focus on product differentiation, creating another grip or boring 'CAP' style plate will just get lost in the wake of all the junk out there. Power systems is too boring and Troy's bloated underlined logo leaves me feeling soft. Something unique, old school, possibly even bare steel with a unique patina instead of cheap paint. With a spray bottle and the right chemicals this could be done in house, order bare steel plates from China and by the time it crosses the sea it will be partially rusted to hep with the process anyway.

    Think the one on the left only darker brown/black....

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  17. #107
    Banned musclefitness11's Avatar
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    wow, love the eye candy... love their ads

    Originally Posted by morebarbell View Post
    Those who did were rewarded...
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  18. #108
    Lifting Vicariously Domicron's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by chadsalt View Post
    No wonder, with nearly 17k posts your digit strength would approach world strongman class.........
    i once tried to make a phone call and accidentally punched my finger through the entire phone...that was embarrassing...
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  19. #109
    Registered User dumb.bell's Avatar
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    I'm going to have to look into some of these Patina coating options.
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  20. #110
    Registered User morebarbell's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by dukenukem7777 View Post
    I like seeing the conversation range widely for this topic. Sometimes I learn things, or learn about a product people want that isn't offered. My ideas of what to offer evolve based on the conversation here combined with what I know sells, so it's definitely helpful.

    I don't have anything to show yet for designs because when it comes to overseas manufacturing, you've got 3 options:

    1) You can buy something "off the shelf" that they have already made or already have designs for.
    2) You can customize a design they have and tell them what to change.
    3) You can create something new and get them to make whatever you want.

    I'm not sure what option we'll do for plates. They'll probably have the basic shape of the plate, but it looks like the details matter if we want to create something that is known for quality. The comparison between the two plates you showed is interesting. I'm guessing they would grind these plates down by hand to make them look as nice as those revolvers. Then the powder-coating is something we'd have to experiment with too.

    I might post some pictures of off-the-shelf designs and see what you guys would change. Sometimes it's not even the design, it's getting them to adhere to the quality standards you set.
    It would be fun to see. And the feedback might help you pick.

    Originally Posted by bajabill View Post
    what are you two's thoughts on this,

    I understand the sharp corner and a rounded corner around the perimeter will solve that.

    But I like the flat so the plate has more surface area to contact the floor/pad.
    As long as they don't have sharp edges, either is fine with me. Are you concerned about the plates breaking or slop? If they fit the bar well, wobbly plates shouldn't be an issue either way. And I think the durability should be ok. The radius on the Ivanko revolvers is actually pretty close to the radius on the old deep dish York plates. I like both of those plate designs. I also like the Ivanko OM and 80s Yorks with flat (but not sharp) edges. With a grip plate, a radiused edge will be more ergonomic.
    Last edited by morebarbell; 05-11-2016 at 05:09 PM.
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    Originally Posted by dumb.bell View Post
    I'm going to have to look into some of these Patina coating options.
    I used the Laurel mountain product I posted above on a kit gun barrel I made. It works great but is so labor intensive it better be your hobby.
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    Originally Posted by bajabill View Post
    I just bought some Intek grip plates, I like the grip design, the hole tolerance, I wish they had standard OD and more of a flat to sit on the ground.

    But, the accuracy is terrible. So bad that I need to keep track of them. I am not sure I will keep them because of the effort needed to keep the weight totals straight. IMO, if its too hard to make a 45lb plate, you should not be in the weight plate making business.
    That's very interesting. My rubber Inteks are all pretty spot on, even more so than my Ivanko deep dishes. I've always praised their accuracy. I have also weighed some of the urethane ones.

    As far as Inteks go, they are one of the most ergonomic plates I have ever used if you want some inspiration for a grip plate. I think they are even more comfortable than Ivanko OUEZ imo.
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    Originally Posted by 845ToastT View Post
    As far as Inteks go, they are one of the most ergonomic plates I have ever used if you want some inspiration for a grip plate. I think they are even more comfortable than Ivanko OUEZ imo.
    I agree totally. I really like the design of the Inteks.
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    if money were unlimited and i was going to buy brand new plates i'd be debating between intek urethane and OMEZS

    i've seen some older intek iron plates that've picked up a nice patina and they look great too...
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    Originally Posted by Domicron View Post
    if money were unlimited and i was going to buy brand new plates i'd be debating between intek urethane and OMEZS

    i've seen some older intek iron plates that've picked up a nice patina and they look great too...
    They look good. I ordered some from a place in Atlanta but they were lost in the mail.

    Originally Posted by morebarbell View Post
    Originally Posted by dukenukem7777 View Post
    ...The comparison between the two plates you showed is interesting...
    These aren't painted iron but I thought these comparisons might also be helpful

    Originally Posted by morebarbell View Post

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    Very compelling. I enjoyed the part where you added the arrows for educational purpose.
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    Originally Posted by Northernmoris View Post
    Very compelling. I enjoyed the part where you added the arrows for educational purpose.
    I stopped reading at NPC
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    Originally Posted by morebarbell View Post
    They look good. I ordered some from a place in Atlanta but they were lost in the mail.
    are you talking about intek urethanes or older cast iron? and no way to get your money back? i'd be pretty pissed.
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    Originally Posted by Domicron View Post
    are you talking about intek urethanes or older cast iron? and no way to get your money back? i'd be pretty pissed.
    They were iron painted black like in the NPC photo. The customer service at the store was excellent and very helpful. I received an immediate refund but I would have rather had the plates.
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    i'm curious how you guys think the newer ivanko plates with the hammertone ages. the ones i've seen are a lot like my plates. it eventually starts chipping looks a little patchy and stuff. curious if you guys would bother knocking the rest of it off to try and let them pick up natural patina or repaint them or what?

    i don't mind the look of them, and kind of appreciate that they're well broken in. just curious.

    Originally Posted by morebarbell View Post
    They were iron painted black like in the NPC photo. The customer service at the store was excellent and very helpful. I received an immediate refund but I would have rather had the plates.
    well there's that at least...sucks about being lost though. maybe some of the tossers didn't like moving them around?
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