-
I'm looking to get a new bar on Black Friday. I really like the design of the Rogue Matt Chan bar but I hate the black zinc finish and that's all they offer today. Does anybody know of a similar all-around bar that has the wider gap between the knurling? The gap is 21" on the Chan bar, vs ~17" on most bars. Don't get me wrong, the black zinc isn't a deal breaker but I'd rather not have it.
[img]https://www.garage-gyms.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/ohio-vs-chan-knurling.jpg[/img]
-
[QUOTE=bisonp;1533808291]I'm looking to get a new bar on Black Friday. I really like the design of the Rogue Matt Chan bar but I hate the black zinc finish and that's all they offer today. Does anybody know of a similar all-around bar that has the wider gap between the knurling? The gap is 21" on the Chan bar, vs ~17" on most bars. Don't get me wrong, the black zinc isn't a deal breaker but I'd rather not have it.
[img]https://www.garage-gyms.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/ohio-vs-chan-knurling.jpg[/img][/QUOTE]
I'm the opposite. I am scouring the different sites with deals and would prefer the black zinc on the bar AND sleeves, like the Rogue Ohio bar has. Will the sleeves look like chit after a years time of loading unloading plates with it scraping off the black zinc plating?
EDIT: Even the Ohio bar only has black zinc bar but bright zinc sleeves. The Black Oxide bar has black sleeves but being black oxide it will wear off fast right?
So it looks like up in no man's land wanting an all black bar that will be durable right?
EDIT: why would there be a premium price for black oxide over black zinc? Seems black oxide is not much better than raw steel as far as rust prevention. I have a cheap chrome plated bar I got in a craigslist bundle and the chrome plating is flaking off and will cut into the skin like little daggers, so I'd be leery of ever buying chrome bars. I have to wear leather work gloves when using that flaked off chrome bar.
-
[QUOTE=bb5150;1535258791]I'm the opposite. I am scouring the different sites with deals and would prefer the black zinc on the bar AND sleeves, like the Rogue Ohio bar has. Will the sleeves look like chit after a years time of loading unloading plates with it scraping off the black zinc plating?
EDIT: Even the Ohio bar only has black zinc bar but bright zinc sleeves. The Black Oxide bar has black sleeves but being black oxide it will wear off fast right?
So it looks like up in no man's land wanting an all black bar that will be durable right? But won't be lile that cheap chromed bar.
EDIT: why would there be a premium price for black oxide over black zinc? Seems black oxide is not much better than raw steel as far as rust prevention. I have a cheap chrome plated bar I got in a craigslist bundle and the chrome plating is flaking off and will cut into the skin like little daggers, so I'd be leery of ever buying chrome bars. I have to wear leather work gloves when using that flaked off chrome bar.[/QUOTE]
The latest version of the westside power bar is black zinc shaft and sleeves. Yes, the zinc will scrape or wear off over time. But wont be like that cheap chromed bar.
-
[quote]So it looks like up in no man's land wanting an all black bar that will be durable right?[/quote]
Rogue has their Ohio bar in black on black Cerakote:
[url]www.roguefitness.com/the-ohio-bar-cerakote[/url]
-
[QUOTE=tanksoldier;1535290321]Rogue has their Ohio bar in black on black Cerakote:
[url]www.roguefitness.com/the-ohio-bar-cerakote[/url][/QUOTE]
I think I read it on this forum (maybe somewhere earlier in this very thread) where Cerakote while a tough and durable finish is a bad idea for the sleeves as the finish is likely to crack in chunks as it might be durable for wear but not impact. So the Cerakote would be a no go from me on the sleeves.
I'll check out the Westside bar [b]Jason2459[/b] mentioned.
-
[QUOTE=bisonp;1533808291]I'm looking to get a new bar on Black Friday. I really like the design of the Rogue Matt Chan bar but I hate the black zinc finish and that's all they offer today. Does anybody know of a similar all-around bar that has the wider gap between the knurling? The gap is 21" on the Chan bar, vs ~17" on most bars. Don't get me wrong, the black zinc isn't a deal breaker but I'd rather not have it.
You can special order the Chan in bare steel. There is no extra cost, but the lead time is 4 weeks( probably longer now with the Holidays). Also, Fringesport has their Hybrid Bar that does have the extended 'gap' and passive center knurling like the Chan. The matte chrome of the Hybrid does indeed feel like bare steel.
Hope that helps.
-
[QUOTE=bb5150;1535292441]I think I read it on this forum (maybe somewhere earlier in this very thread) where Cerakote while a tough and durable finish is a bad idea for the sleeves as the finish is likely to crack in chunks as it might be durable for wear but not impact. So the Cerakote would be a no go from me on the sleeves.[/QUOTE]
That's correct, the Cerakote isn't the panacea it's being marketed as. It WILL wear. It'll take much longer on the shaft, but the sleeves will show wear much quicker. I'm sure everyone's seen their marketing video's and can quickly figure out why marketing is just that. Caveat emptor.
Here's an example of Cerakote damage to the sleeve:
Go to 2m 28s (or click link to go directly to YouTube below)
[YOUTUBE]wxV3T6hGx8o[/YOUTUBE]
[url]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxV3T6hGx8o&t=2m28s[/url]
-
A barbell is a piece of exercise equipment used in weight training, bodybuilding, weightlifting and powerlifting, consisting of a long bar, usually with weights attached at each end.
-
[QUOTE=Puloma;1537942621]A barbell is a piece of exercise equipment used in weight training, bodybuilding, weightlifting and powerlifting, consisting of a long bar, usually with weights attached at each end.[/QUOTE]
Really? Weights at both ends? Sounds like a very useful piece of equipment. Where could I buy such a thing?
-
[QUOTE=Puloma;1537942621]A barbell is a piece of exercise equipment used in weight training, bodybuilding, weightlifting and powerlifting, consisting of a long bar, usually with weights attached at each end.[/QUOTE]
This sounds extremely dangerous, I'd stay far away.
-
Does anyone know the proper names for the parts of a bar?
Is the portion from the end of the bar to the "weight stop" , where the weights go called the sleeve?
What is the "weigh stop" ridge really called?
Does the space between the two "weight stops" (the area you hold) on the bar have a special name?
Im trying to find find a standard bar with the internal distance between the "weight stops" at least 48" I just don't know what that part of the bar is called.
Anyone seen a good diagram that outlines the basic portions of a bar by name?
-
Jeff, I believe everything you're asking about is covered in the posts on the first page. It sounds like what you're referring to is the part of the shaft which is between the collars.
Most (as in you'd have to try hard to find one that doesn't) full-sized Olympic bars will be >48" between the collars. If you look at the links I linked to for IPF and IWF specs you'll note that they both require an approved bar to have a distance of 1310mm (51.6") between collar faces. To quote the IPF rule book:
"Distance between the collar faces is not to exceed 1.32 m or be less than 1.31 m"
-
[QUOTE=JeffUP;1539765391]Does anyone know the proper names for the parts of a bar?
Is the portion from the end of the bar to the "weight stop" , where the weights go called the sleeve?
What is the "weigh stop" ridge really called?
Does the space between the two "weight stops" (the area you hold) on the bar have a special name?
Im trying to find find a standard bar with the internal distance between the "weight stops" at least 48" I just don't know what that part of the bar is called.
Anyone seen a good diagram that outlines the basic portions of a bar by name?[/QUOTE]
The [B]sleeves[/B] are the part of the bar that hold the weights. For Olympic bars, the part that rotates is the sleeve. It includes all or part of the inside collar. The loadable sleeve length is the portion that is 2" in diameter.
The weight stop you describe is the [B]inner[/B] or [B]inside collar[/B]. For most bars, the inner collars are part of the sleeve and rotate with the rest of the sleeve. A popular exception is the Older York bars with a split-collar. Part of the inner collar rotates with the sleeve and part is fixed to the bar.
The distance between the inside collars is the distance between "weight stops" you describe. For standard 7' bars (full size Olympic bars), it will be greater than 48", as described by bobcat above. For 6' and 5 foot Olympic bars, the distance varies greatly between bars.
-
[QUOTE=RestoringTally;1539776491]The [B]sleeves[/B] are the part of the bar that hold the weights. For Olympic bars, the part that rotates is the sleeve. It includes all or part of the inside collar. The loadable sleeve length is the portion that is 2" in diameter.
The weight stop you describe is the [B]inner[/B] or [B]inside collar[/B]. For most bars, the inner collars are part of the sleeve and rotate with the rest of the sleeve. A popular exception is the Older York bars with a split-collar. Part of the inner collar rotates with the sleeve and part is fixed to the bar.
The distance between the inside collars is the distance between "weight stops" you describe. For standard 7' bars (full size Olympic bars), it will be greater than 48", as described by bobcat above. For 6' and 5 foot Olympic bars, the distance varies greatly between bars.[/QUOTE]
Thanks for the clarification.
-
Hello. I’m unable to post links since I just joined, but I’m getting my first bar soon. What are your thoughts on this one on Amazon?
XMark LUMBERJACK 7' Olympic Bar, Chrome with Black Manganese Phosphate shaft, 28 mm grip
-
[QUOTE=NonEntity1000;1540308351]Hello. I’m unable to post links since I just joined, but I’m getting my first bar soon. What are your thoughts on this one on Amazon?
XMark LUMBERJACK 7' Olympic Bar, Chrome with Black Manganese Phosphate shaft, 28 mm grip[/QUOTE]
Nice but I dont know much about xmark...I would also check Repfitness bars on Amazon.. heat bars for the price
-
[QUOTE=NonEntity1000;1540308351]Hello. I’m unable to post links since I just joined, but I’m getting my first bar soon. What are your thoughts on this one on Amazon?
XMark LUMBERJACK 7' Olympic Bar, Chrome with Black Manganese Phosphate shaft, 28 mm grip[/QUOTE]
I've looked at this on Amazon. It's affordable. It has positive reviews from Amazon buyers, but I wouldn't put much faith in the reviews. Most seem to be from lifters that aren't very discerning when it comes to bars. "I bought this for my boyfriend. It arrived on time. 5 stars". That sort of stuff.
Xmark is new, I take it. All China, I would guess.
Unless you find some decent reviews from someone that is serious about wringing out a bar and writing a good review, I'd give it a miss and stick with more tried and true barbells.
-
[QUOTE=NonEntity1000;1540308351]Hello. I’m unable to post links since I just joined, but I’m getting my first bar soon. What are your thoughts on this one on Amazon?
XMark LUMBERJACK 7' Olympic Bar, Chrome with Black Manganese Phosphate shaft, 28 mm grip[/QUOTE]
What are you looking to use the bar for? What kinds of lifts do you perform? Do you compete or plan on doing so? Do you already own any other bars or will this be your first? Do you have any preferences as far as knurl/finish/quality/durability/source of origin or anything else?
-
Great guide, looking forward to it being finished. Any tips for QCing a used bar? I came upon an Ivanko OB-20KG locally for 100 and was contemplating checking it out.
-
[QUOTE=Za78;1540676821]Great guide, looking forward to it being finished. Any tips for QCing a used bar? I came upon an Ivanko OB-20KG locally for 100 and was contemplating checking it out.[/QUOTE]
When looking at a used bar, the primary concern is that it be straight - not bent. A slightly bent bar may be useful as a beater bar or for rack pulls. But even a slight bend can often be felt during lifts.
The way I check for a straight bar is, with the bar on the ground, I put on foot on one inner collar while holding the other inner collar with my hand. I use my other hand to rotate the bar while watching the end of the sleeve. If the bar is straight, the end of the sleeve will not move. If the bar is bent, the end of the sleeve will move in a small circle. The bigger the circle, the more the bar is bent.
Other things to look for are the general condition of the bar: the sleeves rotate, the amount of rust, the knurl condition. Sleeve rotation and rust can be fixed, but they impact the price. You need to like the knurl to make it a worthwhile purchase.
-
A very tiny wobble is ok. Rogue's tolerance for returns is 3mm or more. 1-2mm is fine.
-
Thanks! I checked out the bar as instructed and it looked perfect to me. Knurling was worn down at the rack points but otherwise felt pretty good. Compared it to a TPB that was there and the knurling on the Ivanko felt much more grippy. I’m very pleased with it.
-
How common is it to see three snap rings on the end of a barbell sleeve? I tried disassembling an old squat bar to find out more about it and was able to get two snap rings off, which let me slide the sleeve off of the shaft. But there is a third snap ring under the second that I was unable to get off because the pliers that I bought are terrible. I'm going to buy a better pair of snap ring pliers to get this third one off, but in the meantime, can anyone shed some light on this design?
-
[QUOTE=sm1ke;1540927651]How common is it to see three snap rings on the end of a barbell sleeve? I tried disassembling an old squat bar to find out more about it and was able to get two snap rings off, which let me slide the sleeve off of the shaft. But there is a third snap ring under the second that I was unable to get off because the pliers that I bought are terrible. I'm going to buy a better pair of snap ring pliers to get this third one off, but in the meantime, can anyone shed some light on this design?[/QUOTE]
I don't know much about this other than to say, if you can afford it buy these pliers from Princess Auto.
[IMG]https://images11.palcdn.com/hlr-system/WebPhotos/29/292/2920/2920133.jpg[/IMG]
[url]https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/heavy-duty-internal-external-snap-ring-pliers/A-p2920133e[/url]
-
Those look a lot better than the Mastercraft garbage I have, lol. Thanks for the link.
-
I bought a crap pair from Lowe's that were near impossible to use, replaced it with these and couldn't be happier! Although it's somewhat ironic that after buying it I sold all my bars secured with snap rings LOL
[url]https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-927-8-Inch-Retaining-Plier/dp/B000TG80SY/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1516223443&sr=8-7&keywords=snap+ring[/url]
-
[QUOTE=urbanlifter;1540952201]I bought a crap pair from Lowe's that were near impossible to use, replaced it with these and couldn't be happier! Although it's somewhat ironic that after buying it I sold all my bars secured with snap rings LOL
[url]https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-927-8-Inch-Retaining-Plier/dp/B000TG80SY/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1516223443&sr=8-7&keywords=snap+ring[/url][/QUOTE]
I have those Channellocks as well. They work well for most snap rings, but weren't strong enough for the super heavy duty snap rings on my Texas Power bar. You heard that right, my TPB has internal and external snap rings.
-
Picked up a pair of the Lisle snap ring pliers last night. Will update when I get the barbell taken apart
-
Very Impressive info, thanks
Keep up the good work!
-
I am looking at picking up a Fringe Wonder Bar 2 (bushing version) as my second bar. Seems to be an excellent bar for the money and I am all about finding good valued equipment.