***Climbing Thread***

[n0ctune]

i thought this would be interesting. not sure if many of you climb but here goes nothing

well anyways, my questions is that im looking to purchase new climbing shoes that will provide me with the best grip for smearing etc on the walls. even real ones. the thing is, im not too well informed on climbing shoes, and the pair i have now were a gift (saltec) any thing i should look for in climbing shoes? any suggestions for good shoes?

question 2: Are the climbing clinics really worth it? at the climbing place i currently attend, they are offering climbing clinics specifically on climbing tecniques (sp?) and tricks. but the courses are pretty expensive over 500rm = 150USD per.

[GimpyPaw]

Stealth C4 rubber is about the stickiest on the market, which is available on new 5.10 shoes and in home re-sole kits. Also most outfits that re-sole climbing shoes can get the Stealth C4.

A smearing shoe will normally be softer and more flexible, and usually does not have a "slingshot" ankle rand. I've found the Boreal "Diablo" to be a good smearing shoe for me and my climbing style. (I curently use Boreal's "Ace" because it works better on the rock I tend to climb)

As for clinics, I wouldn't spend the cash on one. Just find somebody who climbs more than you and see if you can tag along like a lost puppy. That will teach you more for less.

[n0ctune]

thanks, sry i cant rep.
Hmm.. what do you mean by 5.10? So from what you wrote, different shoes suit different people according to their climbing style; how can i discover what my 'climbing style' is? Should i ask a more experienced climber?

[guest89]

Ask locals, most climbers are very friendly and are willing to help. At least where I lived. My friend had some pro's teach him, he just walked up to emm and started asking questions.


Make friends with someone who's good at it, my brotherinlaw knew a guy who was a instructor so he tought me how to climb for free in the rockclimbing gym.

[GimpyPaw]

5.10 is a brand name. Most on-line climbing shops will carry them.

As for climbing style, there are two primary things to concider. Type of rock and features your climbing on, and the technique you employ to accend.

So, if you find that mostly your edging micro-holds on the toes, a shoe with a stiff sole, a wrap-around "slingshot" rand, and hard rubber will be the way to go. If you tend to crack climb a lot, then look for some high-tops. If smearing is your primary foot placement choice, then go for something flexible and with soft rubber. Your going to have to experiment a little to find what makes you happiest in the shoe department.

Good climbing.

[n0ctune]

thanks, and one more thing, should i get taught to lead climb by a friend or a more experienced, such as someone who works there.

[GimpyPaw]

thanks, and one more thing, should i get taught to lead climb by a friend or a more experienced, such as someone who works there.

Look, I don't want you to take this as a slam or anything, but if you don't have enough experience to know what shoes to wear, I have to question if your ready to lead climb. I just don't want to be reading about you in next years Climbing Accidents report.

OK, preach mode 0ff:

I would opt to have a profesional, or at least a more advanced climber instruct you on lead climbing. Most climbing gyms I've been in will only let somebody lead AFTER they have passed the gyms qualifications tests or AFTER the person has taken the gyms instruction classes on lead climbing. If you know of a gym that let's one climber teach another climber how to lead then your lucky to have found one so relaxed.

Leading will present you with new challenges, and expose you to greater danger. Yes, indoors, on a gym wall with a padded floor, your under more of a controlled enviroment, but you could make a "Z" clip, miss your next anchor, or even "back-clip" and end up decking from 30 ft fairly easy.

Let me know when you've lead your first pitch, ok?

[n0ctune]

Look, I don't want you to take this as a slam or anything, but if you don't have enough experience to know what shoes to wear, I have to question if your ready to lead climb. I just don't want to be reading about you in next years Climbing Accidents report.

OK, preach mode 0ff:

I would opt to have a profesional, or at least a more advanced climber instruct you on lead climbing. Most climbing gyms I've been in will only let somebody lead AFTER they have passed the gyms qualifications tests or AFTER the person has taken the gyms instruction classes on lead climbing. If you know of a gym that let's one climber teach another climber how to lead then your lucky to have found one so relaxed.

Leading will present you with new challenges, and expose you to greater danger. Yes, indoors, on a gym wall with a padded floor, your under more of a controlled enviroment, but you could make a "Z" clip, miss your next anchor, or even "back-clip" and end up decking from 30 ft fairly easy.

Let me know when you've lead your first pitch, ok?

just asking for the future. sorry if i made you angry.

thanks anyways.

[GimpyPaw]

No sweat, you didn't make me angry or anything. It's just that sometimes people get a little ahead of themselves and start doing things on the rock their not ready for. I hope you do learn to lead, I just thought you were wanting to learn while you were still breaking in your new shoes.

[W8isGR8]

5.10 is a brand name. Most on-line climbing shops will carry them.

As for climbing style, there are two primary things to concider. Type of rock and features your climbing on, and the technique you employ to accend.

So, if you find that mostly your edging micro-holds on the toes, a shoe with a stiff sole, a wrap-around "slingshot" rand, and hard rubber will be the way to go. If you tend to crack climb a lot, then look for some high-tops. If smearing is your primary foot placement choice, then go for something flexible and with soft rubber. Your going to have to experiment a little to find what makes you happiest in the shoe department.

Good climbing.

Yeah, it depends on style and rock type. Slippers aren't as good for edges and heel hooks. In all honesty, it really doesn't matter for a beginner. It's kinda like arguing about bench shirts when you're only putting up 135.