Bent Skeg... Is this bad?

[Nainoa]

Okay...

So Saturday night, after a day of Musky Fishing (Didn't get anything, but technically day went off without a flaw.)

We get back to my house... My buddy had been towing my new boat...

Pitch black out...

So I run to the house to hit the yard light...

Leaving him unattended, and with our other buddy sleeping in the back.

I hit the yard light and step outside again to find that my buddy has decided he can back it up in the darkness...

I got outside just in time to be able to scream "STOP!" Which kept him from an utter disaster... Instead he only Banged the motor of my boat into my other buddys truck...

It appears that my transom saver and it's Rubber pads absorbed the blow from any frame damage... And one blade of my prop traded paint with the truck's tail gate, but nothing significant.

The Skeg took the brunt of the damage though...

It bent in a gentle curve... About 5 inches long, and about 10 degrees.

So I guess the question I'm asking you guys... "Does a Skeg really do anything with regards to the boats handling... Does it actually work like a rudder? Or is it just there as a prop protection?"

Thanks in Advance!

Nainoa

[One More Time]

Okay...


The Skeg took the brunt of the damage though...

It bent in a gentle curve... About 5 inches long, and about 10 degrees.

So I guess the question I'm asking you guys... "Does a Skeg really do anything with regards to the boats handling... Does it actually work like a rudder? Or is it just there as a prop protection?"

Thanks in Advance!

Nainoa

OUCH!!!!!!!!!..... Yes, the skeg helps with the handling. The boat will probably pull real hard (either right or left, I can't remember). I snapped a skeg off of a 200hp Johnson before and it pulled so hard you could barely drive it. The good news is that it can be fixed. A dealer/mechanic can bend it back and install a strip of metal that will make it stronger. I have heard that you can repair it yourself by heating the metal and tapping it with a rubber hammer..... I couldn't do that though LOL! If it breaks you will have to buy a lower unit casing or find a shop that will weld and repair it. IMO the weld wouldn't be very strong though. Good luck.....

[fitnessman]

I know you don't want to hear this, but just get it fixed. You will not be happy unless you do.

Have them check the prop as well.

[One More Time]

Oh and I forgot (this kinda adds to what fitnessman said also). If the prop hit you could have bent the propshaft. I wouldn't run it until you get it checked out by a mechanic.

[Nainoa]

Oh and I forgot (this kinda adds to what fitnessman said also). If the prop hit you could have bent the propshaft. I wouldn't run it until you get it checked out by a mechanic.

Unfortunately I leave on a fishing trip in 2 days...

Worst case scenario... I suppose I can test it out and if it runs unsafely I can just use the trolling motor to get me out to a place where I can bobber fish...



-Current waiting list at the mechanic is 3 weeks.

[Chipman]

Unfortunately I leave on a fishing trip in 2 days...

Worst case scenario... I suppose I can test it out and if it runs unsafely I can just use the trolling motor to get me out to a place where I can bobber fish...



-Current waiting list at the mechanic is 3 weeks.

I have to agree with the two geniuses above just get it fixed. The skeg not only keeps you running on track but it also protects the prop.
Bottom line once you get past the prop motors get pretty delicate so you could have done some damage that will not show up until you run it awhile.
Not trying to sound like the GM guy but as they say you can pay now or you can pay later only later might mean a lot more dinero.

[Geno]

Yep - it's bad. Get it fixed and you will probably need to have your prop trued.

[skinnyme]

It will affect it when you mess with your trim too, so yeah, you need to get it fixed.

[Nainoa]

Thanks Bros!

Well I did some calling around, and got skunked on places that could take it in...

Then this thought ran through my head... "Maybe I should ask the dumbest person I know?"

So I asked my Boss if he knew anything about Bent Skegs... (Normally I avoid asking him questions because you end up getting a lot of run-around a no real answers as he tries to show off, rather than help.)

Sure enough a few years ago he borrowed his Buddy's boat, and my boss was used to bunk trailers, this guy had a roller... My boss un-hitched the guy's boat on the ramp, and it slid straight off and bashed the Skeg.

I've met the guy in question 2 dozen times, and have shot the **** with him a few times...

So I called him up, brought up the incident... And he told me about a little known machine shop, that does boat work on the side... That he took it to.

I called the machine shop... Explained it all... Told the guy I was leaving for a trip... And he swung it so I can bring it in and he'll have it back to me before I leave... Estimated cost: $60...

****

The Prop though seems un-affected... I mean literally it just traded paint with the tail gate...

I had previously hit an unmarked submerged small Rock that had taken the pain off of one of the prop blades, and this was even more minor.

[Geno]

The Prop though seems un-affected... I mean literally it just traded paint with the tail gate...

I had previously hit an unmarked submerged small Rock that had taken the pain off of one of the prop blades, and this was even more minor.

Run it - if it doesn't vibrate it should be fine.

[skippy]

Run it - if it doesn't vibrate it should be fine.

Mine's bent and I haven't noticed any problems or loss of performance.

18' Searay, 350 with OMC sterndrive.

[Chipman]

Mine's bent and I haven't noticed any problems or loss of performance.

18' Searay, 350 with OMC sterndrive.

Yes, but since you only go around in circles it doesn't matter

[skippy]

Yes, but since you only go around in circles it doesn't matter

very little circles at that.

[Geno]

Mine's bent and I haven't noticed any problems or loss of performance.

18' Searay, 350 with OMC sterndrive.

I was talking about the prop - if the skeg is bent it's going to affect how it runs (won't steer a good line for **** - especially at idle, pull hard to one side or the other, etc.).

If the prop is questionable - run it and see if it vibrates. If it vibrates, have it trued or it will eat up seals, bearings, etc. and loosen everything on the vessel.

[skippy]

I was talking about the prop - if the skeg is bent it's going to affect how it runs (won't steer a good line for **** - especially at idle, pull hard to one side or the other, etc.).

If the prop is questionable - run it and see if it vibrates. If it vibrates, have it trued or it will eat up seals, bearings, etc. and loosen everything on the vessel.

Oh...I was talking about my skeg. If the prop is damaged at all I would have it fixed/replaced. But the skeg? I think that would depend on the severity of the bend.

There are a number of dedicated powerboat forums that have addressed this issue, as well as how to bend it back yourself. Google is your friend.

[Chipman]

I was talking about the prop - if the skeg is bent it's going to affect how it runs (won't steer a good line for **** - especially at idle, pull hard to one side or the other, etc.).

If the prop is questionable - run it and see if it vibrates. If it vibrates, have it trued or it will eat up seals, bearings, etc. and loosen everything on the vessel.

And that is what makes me leery of taking it to a guy that can fix the skeg for sixty bucks. He is not going to check and see if when the prop hit did it mess up any of the seals.

[Geno]

But the skeg? I think that would depend on the severity of the bend.

There are a number of dedicated powerboat forums that have addressed this issue, as well as how to bend it back yourself. Google is your friend.

He said 5" of it was bent at about 10 degrees. Sounds bad enough to have a problem.

Don't worry too much about the seals - the inside of an outboard foot can take a fair amount of abuse in that department. Just run it for an hour and then loosen your drain plug until a little oil drips out (BE VERY CAREFUL - DON'T DROP THE F'CKING PLUG IN THE WATER!!!!!!!). If it is cloudy or appears white at all, get the boat out of the water and replace your seals. There are only a couple or three seals that can leak and its not that hard to replace them. Afterwards fill with new oil, run for a few hours and change the foot oil again.

[Nainoa]

And that is what makes me leery of taking it to a guy that can fix the skeg for sixty bucks. He is not going to check and see if when the prop hit did it mess up any of the seals.

Well the place I'm taking it is a Bearing and Machine shop that is ASE certified etc...

I'm not Taking it to Joe's Taxidermy, Cafe and Skeg Repair Center...


The prop hit wasn't really a HIT... It was more of a Kiss...

The amount of Impact it took was probably comparable to how hard you could hit it with your hand.

Newton's laws still apply, in the whole "Equal and Opposite Reaction." It didn't even dent the tailgate when it hit it... Just "Scraped" a little paint off of it.

Still of course I'm going to keep an eye on it, and make sure... But as far as Props go... I've seen Props go through MUCH worse in the past...

****

And like the Mechanic I spoke to told me... You hear some people say that a Bent Skeg totaly affects their boat's handling... Other people say that it's no big deal.

****

As for the cost, It's an hourly charge + A little cost for the torch fuel etc...
"Shouldn't even take more than 15 minutes" is what he told me from the description I gave him.

[One More Time]

Glad to hear you can get it fixed before the trip.... However, as suggested by Geno, after you get back home from your trip I would at least change the fluid to absolutely, positively make sure everything is OK. Look for discolored oil and excessive metal shavings. I couldn't check it on the water because I gaurantee you that I would drop the friggin' plug in the lake....LOL. You should already have changed the fluid after break-in but if you didn't don't completely freak out because there will be several metal shavings. Good Luck.... and catch a bunch of fish!

[Nainoa]

Glad to hear you can get it fixed before the trip.... However, as suggested by Geno, after you get back home from your trip I would at least change the fluid to absolutely, positively make sure everything is OK. Look for discolored oil and excessive metal shavings. I couldn't check it on the water because I gaurantee you that I would drop the friggin' plug in the lake....LOL. You should already have changed the fluid after break-in but if you didn't don't completely freak out because there will be several metal shavings. Good Luck.... and catch a bunch of fish!

Yeah technically I'm coming to the end of my Break In period right now anyway... (Which is 10 hours of Run time = 600 minutes) and I'm currently at 443 minutes...

So really after this fishing trip, I should have the fluids changed at the end of my break in anyway! (Or somewhere comparable.)

I had originally planned on it in July after I get back from my real vacation, which is a week long affair to a quite little lake. (Only 275 acres.)

[44hunter]

Everyone neg the thread resurrector!

[Nainoa]

Freaking google, brings up threads from 2006 from my favorite forum. LOL

So how did the repair go nain? Did you watch the repair or drop it off? I've got a decent bend in mine and gonna try to fix it myself because I'm a tight wad.

Haven't you figured out yet that I'm the Human Form of Google... Just like when Smith Downloaded himself into the real world in the Matrix...


Since I went through this problem over FIVE YEARS AGO... I've gotten to know a good number of welders, and I would NOT even attempt to skeg repair like that on my own.

Just way too much that can go wrong... If you bash on it you risk breaking it off or causing more damage to the gears in the lower unit. If you heat it in the wrong way and attempt to bend, you risk frying all your lube, any rubber gasgets and warp some of your zerks.

Just not worth it.

[HairyScandinavian]

Everyone neg the thread resurrector!

That's an odd way to resurrect a thread, by calling for a neg for yourself.

Haven't you figured out yet that I'm the Human Form of Google... Just like when Smith Downloaded himself into the real world in the Matrix...


Since I went through this problem over FIVE YEARS AGO... I've gotten to know a good number of welders, and I would NOT even attempt to skeg repair like that on my own.

Just way too much that can go wrong... If you bash on it you risk breaking it off or causing more damage to the gears in the lower unit. If you heat it in the wrong way and attempt to bend, you risk frying all your lube, any rubber gasgets and warp some of your zerks.

Just not worth it.

I think I might just do a search on your posts in OR and print them all out and have them bound into a hardcover book. LOL

Plan would be to remove the bottom portion of the engine and place it against some 4x4 posts or something to keep it stationary and slowly tap it back straight. I may have to replace my seals anyway, last time I changed out that lower unit fluid it looked a little milky, but then it had been in there for about 6 years. I wouldn't mind inspecting everything else in there either as this engine has been bashed to death in the bays and some nasty waters and seen a lot of time water skiing as well.

[2k10SS]

Strong bump

[Nainoa]

That's an odd way to resurrect a thread, by calling for a neg for yourself.



I think I might just do a search on your posts in OR and print them all out and have them bound into a hardcover book. LOL

Plan would be to remove the bottom portion of the engine and place it against some 4x4 posts or something to keep it stationary and slowly tap it back straight. I may have to replace my seals anyway, last time I changed out that lower unit fluid it looked a little milky, but then it had been in there for about 6 years. I wouldn't mind inspecting everything else in there either as this engine has been bashed to death in the bays and some nasty waters and seen a lot of time water skiing as well.

I'm a do-it yourself kind of guy... But for $60-$100... I'd chose to have a pro do it... Because if you break that thing off... You're turning that into a $300-$500 fix.

[HairyScandinavian]

I'm a do-it yourself kind of guy... But for $60-$100... I'd chose to have a pro do it... Because if you break that thing off... You're turning that into a $300-$500 fix.

You, Sir, are NOT telling me what I want to hear. Have you no heart???

[Geno]

If the fluid is really old - who cares if it's a little milky? If it's milky after a few hours or 15 hours, problem.


Jesus christ - who bumped this?

[HairyScandinavian]

I picked up a Deadblow hammer/mallet at the hardware store yesterday. I'm going for it on Wednesday, will report back. Slightly skeered.

If the fluid is really old - who cares if it's a little milky? If it's milky after a few hours or 15 hours, problem.


Jesus christ - who bumped this?

Yep, plan was to change it out, abuse the living fak out of it and check it again. I never got to check it again because I hardly use it and my damn HOA started bitching about it being in my backyard (where nobody can see it) again so I had to leave it on the other side of the freaking plant at my dad's house.

[Nainoa]

I picked up a Deadblow hammer/mallet at the hardware store yesterday. I'm going for it on Wednesday, will report back. Slightly skeered.



Yep, plan was to change it out, abuse the living fak out of it and check it again. I never got to check it again because I hardly use it and my damn HOA started bitching about it being in my backyard (where nobody can see it) again so I had to leave it on the other side of the freaking plant at my dad's house.

I wouldn't do it... But let us know how it goes!

[HairyScandinavian]

I wouldn't do it... But let us know how it goes!

Negs if I break it reps if it works??? lol now I'm really skeered!