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  1. #1
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    Changing Engine oil, SAE 10w-30 vs SAE 5w-20, reps.

    I wanted to change the oil today and realized after reading the book that my Mazda Tribute calls for SAE5w-20 instead of SAE 10w-30, which is the oil type I have. Will this **** my vehicle up if I use different oil?
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  2. #2
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    Shouldn't fukk it up at all, its just what they recommend.

    I usually don't run the same weight the book says.
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  3. #3
    Registered User Snookems's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by JRRBadBoy4Life View Post
    I wanted to change the oil today and realized after reading the book that my Mazda Tribute calls for SAE5w-20 instead of SAE 10w-30, which is the oil type I have. Will this **** my vehicle up if I use different oil?
    You're fine, it's just a viscosity rating for temperatures (Super cold/Super hot) depending on where you live. The "W" stands for Winter and SAE 5-20 has properties of SAE 5-20 as 10W-30 has properties of SAE-10-30. Both in normal ranges.
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  4. #4
    Registered User nithos's Avatar
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    It's not going to blow up your engine, but your engine is engineered to deliver optimum performance using an SAE 5W-20-viscosity grade engine oil. Using a higher-viscosity oil could compromise engine performance over the long term and could be grounds for voiding the manufacturer's warranty if warranty issues should arise.
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  5. #5
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    Originally Posted by Snookems View Post
    You're fine, it's just a viscosity rating for temperatures (Super cold/Super hot) depending on where you live. The "W" stands for Winter and SAE 5-20 has properties of SAE 5-20 as 10W-30 has properties of SAE-10-30. Both in normal ranges.
    Damn, All this time and I didn't know what the W stands for.
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  6. #6
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    Originally Posted by nithos View Post
    It's not going to blow up your engine, but your engine is engineered to deliver optimum performance using an SAE 5W-20-viscosity grade engine oil. Using a higher-viscosity oil could compromise engine performance over the long term and could be grounds for voiding the manufacturer's warranty if warranty issues should arise.
    I plan on using the recommended oil next time. I just don't feel like going to the store to pick up oil as long as I can use this other kind I have. Thanks.
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  7. #7
    Chyeaaaa buuddaaaaahhh chyeaaaa's Avatar
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    dude.. your fine.. 5w-20 doesnt sound that common.. i always use 10w 40.. 10w 30 is fine bro...
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  8. #8
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    Yeah, I'm a dumbass and thought you were going from 10-30 to the 5-20, so my advice has no bearing on this conversation... Sorry.
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  9. #9
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    If you're under warranty, Mazda can deny your claim should anything happen to your engine.

    Just food for thought
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  10. #10
    Team InnerArmour RatherBeLifting's Avatar
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    your fine, If you really want to learn about oil go here http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

    also here is a forum for car oil, you can learn alot here.
    http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/ubbthreads.php
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  11. #11
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    Originally Posted by chyeaaaa View Post
    dude.. your fine.. 5w-20 doesnt sound that common..
    5w/20 is newer, I don't know of anything before a 2000 that recommends it.
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  12. #12
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    Sorry bros, Im out of reps.
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  13. #13
    Inuendo? In HER end Oh! PickItUp's Avatar
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    The W stands for WEIGHT!!!

    Originally Posted by Snookems View Post
    You're fine, it's just a viscosity rating for temperatures (Super cold/Super hot) depending on where you live. The "W" stands for Winter and SAE 5-20 has properties of SAE 5-20 as 10W-30 has properties of SAE-10-30. Both in normal ranges.
    BULL****.


    Who told you the W stands for Winter? Maybe it did in some city out there...but the W stand for Weight.


    The first number refers to the weight of the oil. The second number tells you how it thins out when it gets hot.

    So a 10W-30 oil has oil particles the size of 10W oil particles, but when heated up, they thin out like a 30W oil would have thinned out.

    A 5W-20 oil means that the oil particles are of 5W size and those particles thin out as much as a 20W oil would have when exposed to heat.

    When I had a Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX (read all wheel drive turbo) I had to use 20W-50 by Mobil 1 during the summer. It was a thick oil to begin with (20W) and it thins like a 50W oil. I was really beating the **** out of my oil with that turbo. In the summer, my oil pressure would drop at idle to where the light came on. To fix this, I had to step up from a 10W-30 to the 20W-50.

    I do not recommend that you use a different oil. Where do you live? That car uses a pretty light oil. By using a heavier oil, you may introduce better lubrication, but at the same time, the engine may struggle to pump that oil as efficiently. You also lose fuel efficieny with heavier oils.
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  14. #14
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    www.bobistheoilguy.com - THE forum about oils

    Use the oil recommended by the manufacturer. 10w-30 wont hurt the car. Like someone else said though, the car was engineered for 5w-20. The car will run best with it.
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  15. #15
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    [QUOTE=Dark.Rezzan;37112661 10w-30 wont hurt the car. Like someone else said though, the car was engineered for 5w-20. The car will run best with it.[/QUOTE]

    Not 100% accurate my friend. Manufactures have to try and recommend an oil that will fit all people in all climates that they sell the car, so they must make a compromise on what oil to recommend. Oils that work best for a car in North Dakota, will not work the best for a car in Florida.
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  16. #16
    Registered User Snookems's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by pickitup View Post
    BULL****.


    Who told you the W stands for Winter? Maybe it did in some city out there...but the W stand for Weight.
    No you moron, Look in every ****in' automotive encyclopedia and you'd see it "W" means Winter. For Winter grade viscosity ranges. People say Weight because they're a bunch of dumb rednecks. I hear it all the time, it's all rhetoric, go read up and learn some FACTS.



    Originally Posted by pickitup View Post
    I was really beating the **** out of my oil with that turbo.
    LOLOLOL, we all know how Forced induction relates to "Beating the **** out of your oil". Are you saying the oil feed line for your turbo just completely degenerates oil? Lmao..

    Originally Posted by pickitup View Post
    I do not recommend that you use a different oil. Where do you live? .
    Wow, I wonder why they invented Viscosity changing oil? Different weather, By god, I'm amazed!
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  17. #17
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    Originally Posted by pickitup View Post
    BULL****.


    Who told you the W stands for Winter? Maybe it did in some city out there...but the W stand for Weight.


    The first number refers to the weight of the oil. The second number tells you how it thins out when it gets hot.

    So a 10W-30 oil has oil particles the size of 10W oil particles, but when heated up, they thin out like a 30W oil would have thinned out.

    A 5W-20 oil means that the oil particles are of 5W size and those particles thin out as much as a 20W oil would have when exposed to heat.

    When I had a Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX (read all wheel drive turbo) I had to use 20W-50 by Mobil 1 during the summer. It was a thick oil to begin with (20W) and it thins like a 50W oil. I was really beating the **** out of my oil with that turbo. In the summer, my oil pressure would drop at idle to where the light came on. To fix this, I had to step up from a 10W-30 to the 20W-50.

    I do not recommend that you use a different oil. Where do you live? That car uses a pretty light oil. By using a heavier oil, you may introduce better lubrication, but at the same time, the engine may struggle to pump that oil as efficiently. You also lose fuel efficieny with heavier oils.

    hahahah, W does stand for Winter, the number before that has nothing to do with the weight, thats what the 20/30/40 is. 5W-20 is 5 Winter, 20 weight oil.
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  18. #18
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    Originally Posted by SCDiesel23 View Post
    hahahah, W does stand for Winter, the number before that has nothing to do with the weight, thats what the 20/30/40 is. 5W-20 is 5 Winter, 20 weight oil.
    Reps for supporting me and pointing out he's a dumbass
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  19. #19
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    Originally Posted by Snookems View Post
    LOLOLOL, we all know how Forced induction relates to "Beating the **** out of your oil". Are you saying the oil feed line for your turbo just completely degenerates oil? Lmao..
    Turbos get a lot hotter than normal engine temps smart guy(read air compressed by hotter air).

    I would certainly quailfy that as "Beating the **** out of your oil"
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    Pickitup is right. It stands for WEIGHT
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    I would run 5w 30 in it, all modern cars have closer tolerences (bearings etc) and for fuel economy they all reccomend super light oil 5 20 is the norm now 10 30 I wouldn't use just keep it on hand for you lawn mover etc. go out and get some 5w 30 and use a oem filter.

    turbo cars beat on oil cause it get's pumped threw it while the compressor houseing is glowign red hot, more heat = "beat the **** outta it" that is why I use 10 w 40 royal purple in my boosted car
    Last edited by Shaggy4g63; 04-25-2007 at 11:36 AM.
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    Registered User vvt-inside's Avatar
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    you shouldnt have any problems running the 10w-30 for 3-5k miles, basically the 5w is what the factory recomends. there are alot of factors to take into consideration, examples. temp of your location, miles on the car, boosted or stock motor, how high of an elevation you live it etc.. and the list goes on lol, but you should be good to go with the 10w, and i always recomend synthetic oil on 20k plus miles
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    [300 Spartan Crew] RockyIV's Avatar
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    You'll be fine. I usually try to run whatever is in the owners manual, but it won't mess anything up.
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    Inuendo? In HER end Oh! PickItUp's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by SCDiesel23 View Post
    hahahah, W does stand for Winter, the number before that has nothing to do with the weight, thats what the 20/30/40 is. 5W-20 is 5 Winter, 20 weight oil.
    I am still looking up al lthe facts, but I can tell you that the first number is in fact the weight/size of the oil particles. The second number refers to how it thins out when heated.

    10W-30 is a multi-viscosity oil. When cool, it behaves like 10W oil. When hot, it only thins as much as 30W would have thinned. They add polymers to the oil to get the multi-viscosity out of them.

    The W may stand for Winter. I have not found any concrete evidence to support either assertion at this point. I will continue to search.

    Regardless of what the W stands for...the description I gave is accurate. the first number refers to the weight and size of the oil particles at colder temperatures. The second number refers to how resiliant that oil is to changing weight/size when heated. Plain and simple.

    I had to look all of this up 5 years ago when I had a Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX that had the oil light coming on at idle. I have not thought about it since. Get what is recommended by the manufacturer to maintan everythign within spec. Lighter oils will increase fuel economy.
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    Click Click BOOM user27629377's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by pickitup View Post
    I am still looking up al lthe facts, but I can tell you that the first number is in fact the weight/size of the oil particles. The second number refers to how it thins out when heated.

    10W-30 is a multi-viscosity oil. When cool, it behaves like 10W oil. When hot, it only thins as much as 30W would have thinned. They add polymers to the oil to get the multi-viscosity out of them.

    The W may stand for Winter. I have not found any concrete evidence to support either assertion at this point. I will continue to search.

    Regardless of what the W stands for...the description I gave is accurate. the first number refers to the weight and size of the oil particles at colder temperatures. The second number refers to how resiliant that oil is to changing weight/size when heated. Plain and simple.

    I had to look all of this up 5 years ago when I had a Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX that had the oil light coming on at idle. I have not thought about it since. Get what is recommended by the manufacturer to maintan everythign within spec. Lighter oils will increase fuel economy.

    No, you have it assed backwards. 5w-10w describes how it behaves in cold temperature, it is the flow rate of the oil in the winter. What do you mean the second number is how it thins out when it is heated? The second number is always larger than the first, how can that be thinning it out?

    There are two types of motor oils , single grade and multigrade. Multigrade oils such as 10W-30 are designed to have the viscosity of an SAE 10W oil at cold temperatures combined with the viscosity of an SAE 30 oil at engine operating temperatures. The "W" or winter designation indicates that the oil meets viscosity requirements for low temperatures (below 30 degrees F)
    MEANING that it is a 30 WEIGHT OIL but flows at cold temperatures as a 10 WEIGHT OIL. The 30 is the weight, the W is the Winter designation, as I said.
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    Wow the W is defietly for winter not weight and nah youll be fine the manufactureres are now building engiens with tighter clearences so a thinner oil like 5w 20 can be used, becuas eisnce its thinner, the rotating assembly spinns easier, meaning bette rgas mileage the 10 30 wont hurt anyhting maybe your mileage but thatll be slight i have heard of cases where using a heavier oil in very tight clearences could cause the oil pressure to run relaly high, and blows seals and stuff but your light should come on before this or if you have a gauge youll see ti there but you should be fine 99% of "quick lube" shops dont have 5 20 and most new cars use it so dont worry
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