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  1. #31
    Registered User supmannn's Avatar
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    Weigh random **** with food scale until you get 1.25 pounds, tie/tape said random **** to bar when needed.
    Log: http://forum.bodybuilding.com/showthread.php?t=146757493
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  2. #32
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    Originally Posted by jgmack1 View Post
    You can buy 1.25 Olympic plates, or the even smaller .5 kg plates.

    this is what i bought....store by me had them for 68 cents a pound. not big cost
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  3. #33
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    Two year old thread resurrection!

    I'm surprised nobody mentioned doing what I do; simply put an ankle/wrist weight on the middle of the bar.
    Adjust the weight by adding/removing inserts as needed.
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  4. #34
    Registered User bbesr's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by fightnut View Post
    While I admit, I probably wouldn't stick 10 lbers on there and do exercises with it over my face, I think you'd be surprised at how secure they are, and I have no worries about using them overhead with the 2.5 and 5 lbers.

    I'm tellin' ya, I can't even get them to budge when I shake the heck out of them.

    Plenty of people use Platemates on their dumbbells, no difference. Actually, since I can put as many magnets on as I want, my set up may be safer.

    And even if you didn't use them for overhead/overface moves, they can still be used for other moves: DB rows, shrugs, curls, etc.

    Thanks for the idea. I have the same Power Blocks and couldn't figure how to add fractionals. This solves the problem, I hope. And btw, for overhead presses I may just put on my bicycle helmet for insurance.
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  5. #35
    Registered User cthulhupun's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by fightnut View Post
    I know this is an OLD thread, but I'll take a shot in the dark that you're still here and see this.

    Where did you get 2" washers? I've been looking and haven't found anything that big.
    By the way, you do mean washers with a 2" diameter hole in the middle to fit on an Olympic bar, right??
    I got mine from Fastenal. Check the locations, you might find one close to you and save the shipping costs.
    http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...l.ex?sku=33038
    You'll notice that the interior diameter is a hair bigger than 2", which is perfect for an Olympic bar. They weigh about .63lb, so two give you around 1.25lb.
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  6. #36
    Registered User davesdomain's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by cthulhupun View Post
    I got mine from Fastenal. Check the locations, you might find one close to you and save the shipping costs.

    You'll notice that the interior diameter is a hair bigger than 2", which is perfect for an Olympic bar. They weigh about .63lb, so two give you around 1.25lb.
    Thanks for the link. I was thinking about this the other day. Throw some JB Weld on a pair and I'm set.
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  7. #37
    Banned sherman's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by davesdomain View Post
    Thanks for the link. I was thinking about this the other day. Throw some JB Weld on a pair and I'm set.
    It's a good idea to keep in mind that the USS washers you buy are not speced to a precise thickness, therefore the weight of one 2" washer can be quite different from the weight of another. The thickness spec for a USS 2" flat washer is .153" to .213". The thickest washer meeting the spec can be 40% thicker than the thinnest meeting the spec.

    Fastenal's procurement spec for USS 2" washers is the same - .153" to .213" thick. If it falls within that range, it's OK.

    Per Fastenal's data sheet, the weight of a .180" thick 2" washer is .63 lb. Then a .153" thick washer would weigh .53 lb and a .213" thick would weigh .74 lb. And when you buy a 2" USS washer from Fastenal, or any other supplier, the only thing you can count on is that its weight is within that range. (You can always bring a caliper or a scale to the store.)
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  8. #38
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    Originally Posted by sherman View Post
    It's a good idea to keep in mind that the USS washers you buy are not speced to a precise thickness, therefore the weight of one 2" washer can be quite different from the weight of another. The thickness spec for a USS 2" flat washer is .153" to .213". The thickest washer meeting the spec can be 40% thicker than the thinnest meeting the spec.

    Fastenal's procurement spec for USS 2" washers is the same - .153" to .213" thick. If it falls within that range, it's OK.

    Per Fastenal's data sheet, the weight of a .180" thick 2" washer is .63 lb. Then a .153" thick washer would weigh .53 lb and a .213" thick would weigh .74 lb. And when you buy a 2" USS washer from Fastenal, or any other supplier, the only thing you can count on is that its weight is within that range. (You can always bring a caliper or a scale to the store.)
    I understand your point Sherman, but I didn't have a problem when ordering the washers, from Fastenal, through the mail. When working in an industrial environment I noticed the difference in thicknesses, but usually washers from the same box (batch) were consistent.
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  9. #39
    Registered User davesdomain's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by sherman View Post
    It's a good idea to keep in mind that the USS washers you buy are not speced to a precise thickness, therefore the weight of one 2" washer can be quite different from the weight of another. The thickness spec for a USS 2" flat washer is .153" to .213". The thickest washer meeting the spec can be 40% thicker than the thinnest meeting the spec.

    Fastenal's procurement spec for USS 2" washers is the same - .153" to .213" thick. If it falls within that range, it's OK.

    Per Fastenal's data sheet, the weight of a .180" thick 2" washer is .63 lb. Then a .153" thick washer would weigh .53 lb and a .213" thick would weigh .74 lb. And when you buy a 2" USS washer from Fastenal, or any other supplier, the only thing you can count on is that its weight is within that range. (You can always bring a caliper or a scale to the store.)
    Thanks for the heads up. I have a scale that I can check them on. If I glue two together I can always sandwich some small washers or pennies to compensate.
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  10. #40
    Registered User kurtb2080's Avatar
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    Awesome stuff OP! Very intuitive!
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  11. #41
    Registered User wetweva's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by kurtb2080 View Post
    Awesome stuff OP! Very intuitive!
    My 1st post:


    1st method:
    I used to use a couple links of 3/8" or 1/2" chain, one hooked onto the loop on the spring clip on either side of the bar to add weight. I had several pairs of chain 4 links each, 8 links each....

    2nd method:
    My spare spring clips weigh .6 Lbs/each.

    An extra one on each side is my 1 pound.

    I weighed all my weight plates when I got them, and painted the weight on the top of the rim. It's not uncommon to have to shuffle weights around from side to side to balance the bar anyway, and sometimes they take an extra clip or two just to zero them. If I shuffle them a different way I can add an extra 1.25Lb plate, or a 2.5Lb plate to one side to balance them again at a heavier total weight.

    Don't overlook using any spare clips you have, if you've got them anyway.
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