Power Rack Safeties

[dumb.bell]

I have a couple of odd sized power racks that need safeties. The racks are 24 inches deep (between front and rear uprights) and the uprights are 2 x 4 (2 deep and 4 wide) with 1 inch holes. I am looking for a relatively cheap solution and was leaning towards either saber safeties or pin and pipe safeties. I noticed that Rogue sells the pin and pipe safeties for their Monster rack that might work. Is anyone aware of other options or possibly a cheaper solution?

[daniel327]

I have a couple of odd sized power racks that need safeties. The racks are 24 inches deep (between front and rear uprights) and the uprights are 2 x 4 (2 deep and 4 wide) with 1 inch holes. I am looking for a relatively cheap solution and was leaning towards either saber safeties or pin and pipe safeties. I noticed that Rogue sells the pin and pipe safeties for their Monster rack that might work. Is anyone aware of other options or possibly a cheaper solution?

Do you know anyone is construction that could source a couple of short lengths of rebar with a right angle bend on one end?

[gym62richard]

I have a couple of odd sized power racks that need safeties. The racks are 24 inches deep (between front and rear uprights) and the uprights are 2 x 4 (2 deep and 4 wide) with 1 inch holes. I am looking for a relatively cheap solution and was leaning towards either saber safeties or pin and pipe safeties. I noticed that Rogue sells the pin and pipe safeties for their Monster rack that might work. Is anyone aware of other options or possibly a cheaper solution?

When I purchased my Legend 3133 I went with swing in safeties, but I wanted a second safety option, I picked up 2 lengths of 25mm high tensile steel bar. but had no way to bend the end of the rod to form a stop, I had a couple of standard bar collars laying around in my junk and clamped them to the end of the rod, they work great.

I don't recall what the bar cost, but it certainly wasn't expensive.

[radrd]

I used 1" steel rounds with no bend and they worked great. Just have them cut a little longer than your rack - at least enough so you can comfortably grip them. I had 42" of rack and got 48" rounds. 1" rounds are a tight enough fit that rounds aren't going to move much, if at all, if you drop a bar on them. If you want to protect your knurl, cut a two pvc pipes or pieces of hose lengthwise to cover the rounds. I added rubber leg tips on the ends to use as grips, stops, and protection - cut steel rounds are little sharp.

Leg Tips
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...9128/203661031

Bought my steel rounds from onlinemetals.com but there are other sources.

Edit - Agree with gym62richard that standard collars work fine with 1" rounds, if you're concerned with securing them. I had some but eventually didn't bother because the rounds were long enough and tight fitting so collars weren't needed.

[broganoff]

For a bit more than the price of the Rogue pin/pipe safeties you could get a set of safety straps from Titan or Rep. Much quicker to change and without the metal-on-metal screech. I avoid pin/pipe and sabers like the plague. Unless you are not planning on changing them much and leaving them in place, I'd spend a bit more for the sake of efficiency.

[dumb.bell]

For a bit more than the price of the Rogue pin/pipe safeties you could get a set of safety straps from Titan or Rep. Much quicker to change and without the metal-on-metal screech. I avoid pin/pipe and sabers like the plague. Unless you are not planning on changing them much and leaving them in place, I'd spend a bit more for the sake of efficiency.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think anyone makes safety straps for 2 x 4 uprights. I think anything other than a Saber style safety would require custom safeties. The only exception that comes to mind is getting 24 inch cross members and using a fixed pin on one end and a removable one on the other.

[dumb.bell]

I might be able to source some rebar, not sure but will check into that. That would definitely be a cheap option.

When looking for steel rods, are most of them strong enough? Is a description of high tensile steel enough or am I looking for a certain rating?

Are weight machine weight stack rods strong enough?

[daniel327]

When looking for steel rods, are most of them strong enough? Is a description of high tensile steel enough or am I looking for a certain rating?

7/8 or 15/16 inch mild steel round stock will be plenty strong enough over a 24 inch span. It might bend if you drop a heavy bar on it, but it won't break.

It you can find some bright steel bar it would be less prone to corrosion. (It's not coated, it's just been drawn through a die)

Are weight machine weight stack rods strong enough?

A lot of weight stack rods are hollow. You'll want solid round bar. If you can find solid guide rods, they'd be fine.

[RestoringTally]

Another option is to use a steel rod with a piece of pipe. The pipe fits between the uprights and the rods go through the uprights and the pipe. This was often done with old-school racks.

[gym62richard]

I might be able to source some rebar, not sure but will check into that. That would definitely be a cheap option.

When looking for steel rods, are most of them strong enough? Is a description of high tensile steel enough or am I looking for a certain rating?

Are weight machine weight stack rods strong enough?

I went with high tensile because Legend use it on their sabre safeties, also high tensile steel isn't so prone to rust.

[broganoff]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think anyone makes safety straps for 2 x 4 uprights. I think anything other than a Saber style safety would require custom safeties. The only exception that comes to mind is getting 24 inch cross members and using a fixed pin on one end and a removable one on the other.

Yes probably, 2 x 4 sounds unusual. Sorry I missed that part!

[vhd16]

It may not be cheaper option as compared to pin/pipe safeties, but i would just get 2x4 tubing and get swing safeties made like Legend Style . As long as you are not asking the welder to punch holes in the tubing the cost should be manageable. You can always attach UHMW on top.