Power Rack Questions (plate storage and bolting)

[HerpyDerpyBrah]

It would cost me over $500+ more to add 2 more uprights ($90 each) and 4 more crossmembers ($50 each) and 7 plate storage pins ($20 each) to the power rack that I had planned to make from Northern Lights' Crossbox Custom Rigs and wanted opinions on whether plate storage is important enough to justify this cost. I'm making a similar setup as what GarageIron made with his mini R6 but without the pull up bar, dip attachment, safety spotter arms and multi-grip pull up bar (basically a R3 with a fat/skinny bar if I choose not to add plate storage). Also if I don't add plate storage I'm wondering if I should make it a R4 instead as 24" depth doesn't seem like a lot but I also have no experience with a power rack so I'd like to hear opinions about that. I'm still not sure whether it will be bolted or not as if I don't add plate storage it pretty much will have to be bolted. I was planning on instead bolting it on 3/4" thick plywood seeing as how my space is only 91" tall (the uprights are 90" tall) but don't know if that will be good enough or how about to do it as I don't want to bolt it to the ground and have decided on plywood so please share your thoughts, thanks.

[KG4NEL]

The recommendation is at least two sheets of 3/4" ply, with three being preferable.

I would not spend $500 just for plate storage.

[HerpyDerpyBrah]

The recommendation is at least two sheets of 3/4" ply, with three being preferable.

I would not spend $500 just for plate storage.

Yeah it is too expensive, and what are some of the options I have for the whole bolting thing then for my situation, I'll just make a R4 and just leave plates on the ground I guess

[Mech6]

$500 is more than I would charge, but having had plate storage, living without it would really suck.

[jdboyd78]

$500 is too much, but like above, my rack has plate storage, wouldn't consider ever owning one without it.

[HerpyDerpyBrah]

Thanks for the replies but what are your thoughts on how I should go about the whole bolting situation, I don't want to do anything to the floor, and so want to bolt the rack to plywood but my ceiling is too short for more than one layer of 3/4" plywood, thanks and yeah the price is too high but just wanted second opinions so I guess I'll just make a R4 and leave plates on the floor

[dskoo65]

people spend insane amounts for plate storage, imo. two fitness gear bumper plate style racks would run around $120 and put your plates right where you want them on each side....no less effective or space consuming than physically adding structure to you exisiting rack.http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/pr...767&cadevice=c

my brother bought 2 cap Olympic plate holders which are really space efficient and did the same thing...one on each side. $70 total for both of them. are they the greatest plate holders? nope. they do their job and hold the weight.
http://www.wayfair.com/Cap-Barbell-P...FQQSMwodukQABw

[Mech6]

Thanks for the replies but what are your thoughts on how I should go about the whole bolting situation, I don't want to do anything to the floor, and so want to bolt the rack to plywood but my ceiling is too short for more than one layer of 3/4" plywood, thanks and yeah the price is too high but just wanted second opinions so I guess I'll just make a R4 and leave plates on the floor

cut the uprights.

[HerpyDerpyBrah]

I'm now trying to decide whether to have 24" depth inside the rack or 43" as 43" seems like too big of a footprint where as 24" seems a little tight, sadly there is no option for 30" depth which would be perfect

[judgecrandall]

You will be fine with 24". My rack is about that and I wouldn't have any problems going even narrower. There's really no reason for 24", let alone 30"+ if you're doing the basic lifts. I've even done good mornings in my rack without issues.

[maltralson]

Why don't you want to bolt it to the floor, are you renting, or live in a apartment or don't have a concrete floor to bolt the rack to?

Drilling the holes and bolting it to the floor, assuming you're able to is easier than building a platform with a proper hammer drill. I have done it twice with my rack.

And if you decide to move the rack ever like I did you can just buy premixed cement in a little container to patch the old holes up.

[GarageIron]

Lose 2 of the side cross members and bolt it down to save $100 (like a crossfit rig). That said, I'd recommend an addition 43" for across the top (pull up bar will work). Add the other 2 later if you want. Rack storage blows away anything else. Floor options do work but they take up space and I find them inconvenient to access plate because one side is usually against a wall to keep them out if the way.

[HerpyDerpyBrah]

Lose 2 of the side cross members and bolt it down to save $100 (like a crossfit rig). That said, I'd recommend an addition 43" for across the top (pull up bar will work). Add the other 2 later if you want. Rack storage blows away anything else. Floor options do work but they take up space and I find them inconvenient to access plate because one side is usually against a wall to keep them out if the way.

There will already be a fat/skinny bar across the top but I don't understand why I would remove 2 of the side crossmembers?

[GarageIron]

There will already be a fat/skinny bar across the top but I don't understand why I would remove 2 of the side crossmembers?

You run one on each side at the top. Like the storage in the attached photo.

[HerpyDerpyBrah]

You run one on each side at the top. Like the storage in the attached photo.

So you're saying I don't need them at the bottom is what I'm confused about

[GarageIron]

So you're saying I don't need them at the bottom is what I'm confused about

Yes, I'm just saying it is an option if you want to save $100 and still have rack storage.

[HerpyDerpyBrah]

Yes, I'm just saying it is an option if you want to save $100 and still have rack storage.

Alright but even then I would still think that $400 is too much for plate storage? I think that I'll just make a R3 with a skinny/fat bar and dip and landmine attachments, if not just because of the tempting prices but I'm curious to hear if you ended up getting any use out of the dip attachment and if it was any good before finally making a purchase

[sgman]

Yes, I'm just saying it is an option if you want to save $100 and still have rack storage.

I posted a similar question about Crossbox set-up in the power rack thread but didn't get a response. Basically, I was thinking about using the 1.25" pull-up bars as the top crossmembers of the uprights in place of traditional 43" crossmembers to save a few bucks. Then use a single fat-skinny for the crossmember to link the two sides. I was thinking about this with or without the lower crossmembers, since it needs to be bolted anyway. Do you see a problem with this plan?