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  1. #31
    Registered User Phictitious's Avatar
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    Don't worry I have almost half of my garage set aside for my home gym. I just happened to take the picture before moving some stuff around so it looks a bit cramped. I plan on building an 8x8 platform and bolting it down to that before I start using it.
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  2. #32
    Registered User squatplusoats's Avatar
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    Question

    Jesus! Finally got my rack together and bolted down! A couple things really ticked me off about the whole thing, but here's a list of my initial thoughts on the rack.
    1. FedEx only delivered 1 package and there were 2 so we had to go running around fedexes ad ended up waiting a half hour just to pick it up ice we got to the right one.
    2. The directions a really simple ad hard to follow. It's just a page with a picture of it being assembled. It wouldn't be bad but it's so small you can't see which way the bolts are supposed to go, so we ended up looking at the pictures on their website.
    3. The smaller pull-up bar had some paint missing and was rusted a bit on one side corner. We thought it over and decided it wasn't even worth it to ask them for a replacement as we were most likely going to put a grip on there Anyways. I'm sure they would have replaced it if I asked based on their customer service so far
    4. Having the weight holders the way we did caused the plates being stored to hit the plates on the bar, so we're only using two of them. This doesn't really matter to me and we could get away with all 4 but there's no point really as we need a weight tree anyways.
    5. There is very little/none front and back sway, but noticeable side to side sway. After googling this I have come to the conclusion that bolt together racks will sway more side to side but won't bend or crack because they're bolted not welded. It's also only the top half as the bottom half is bolted to the platform.
    6. You will need a massive 15/16 socket/ wrench to get this thing together. I had I run back to work to get one real quick.

    *just a note, this initial review may seem down and pessimistic but I was put in a really bad mood waiting for FedEx, and also building the platform which I messed up a little bit. Not the racks fault IMO.

    I'll post some picks, most it was used was a kid squatting 230 in it. Obviously looked like it could handle that, you just have to remember their weight capacity is a static hold.

    I'll leave a better review once I start lifting heavy in it but so far my only regrets are not leaving a negative review on FedEx's yelp, and not paying better attention when building the platform for it.

    **i actually don't know how to post pics from my phone. Anybody know how?
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  3. #33
    Registered User throwaway3441's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by squatplusoats View Post
    There is very little/none front and back sway, but noticeable side to side sway.
    Yeah, that's normal. You can see someone shaking an R3 at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQJRATXLO0w.

    Originally Posted by squatplusoats View Post
    **i actually don't know how to post pics from my phone. Anybody know how?
    Feel free to upload to http://imgur.com/ and someone will embed them for you.
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  4. #34
    Registered User GarageIron's Avatar
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    It really shouldn't sway front to back or side to side... bolted or welded. One thing you need to do when bolting it down (if you haven't already) is back off the rack hardware, then measure the distance between the uprights at the top and bottom (front and back) to ensure it is square. If you just bolt it together the bottom of the uprights will collapse in a few inches (which will sway when bolted down). Once you have it set where it is sitting right, mark the holes for the floor anchors and drill them. Just snug the anchors up and begin tightening the upper hardware in a criss cross pattern, and then tighten the anchors in the same way. It should be very solid at this point. My bolted R3 and NL crossbox knockoff (or any rack I've bolted down) did not sway like in that video.
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  5. #35
    Registered User throwaway3441's Avatar
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    Wow. I thought that was normal. I guess I've just never encountered a properly bolted down rack.

    I just rewatched that video and when he shakes the rack from front to back the platform actually lifts a little. I wonder if his platform is a little thin.
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  6. #36
    Registered User GarageIron's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by throwaway3441 View Post
    Wow. I thought that was normal. I guess I've just never encountered a properly bolted down rack.

    I just rewatched that video and when he shakes the rack from front to back the platform actually lifts a little. I wonder if his platform is a little thin.
    They do sway a bit if you rock it back and forth, especially if you have plate storage loaded with plates. I find most people don't square them up first. When the bottom of the rack is collapsed in, its similar to standing with your feet together when someone pushes you from the side... You'll tip easily. With your feet in a wider stance, it's much harder to tip you over.
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  7. #37
    Registered User squatplusoats's Avatar
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    We didn't back off the hardware before it was bolted but we made sure the distance was the same for the too and bottom of the rack (42") it could be the way my platform is. It's 2x6s on uneven cement with plywood under part of it to level it out, then 3/4" plywood on top. I used 1/2" hex lag screws to bolt it to the platform. Any idea how I can make it sway less side to side?

    *edit. Here's some pics
    imgur(dot)com/WfmRHjC
    imgur(dot)com/AIEB57m
    imgur(dot)com/lLFFBAU

    I can't post pics yet so replace (dot) with .
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  8. #38
    Gandalf of the Gym cmarti063's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by squatplusoats View Post
    We didn't back off the hardware before it was bolted but we made sure the distance was the same for the too and bottom of the rack (42") it could be the way my platform is. It's 2x6s on uneven cement with plywood under part of it to level it out, then 3/4" plywood on top. I used 1/2" hex lag screws to bolt it to the platform. Any idea how I can make it sway less side to side?

    *edit. Here's some pics




    I can't post pics yet so replace (dot) with .
    Embedded

    Edit: or not. Not sure what happened...
    Edit: squats+oats got it
    Last edited by cmarti063; 07-12-2014 at 10:54 AM.
    www.instagram.com/mastodonstrength/
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  9. #39
    Registered User squatplusoats's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by cmarti063 View Post
    Embedded

    Edit: or not. Not sure what happened...
    Maybe you need the http.//
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  10. #40
    Registered User Murser's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    Short version: I'd buy it again and bolt it down.


    TLDR:

    I got mine assembled and bolted down yesterday. I had to cut about 2" off the uprights so they'd clear the sub floor above, a reciprocating saw took cut it fairly easily. I used a 15/16 socket and 24mm wrench to assemble it. I bolted it to my basement floor with 3"x3/8" Tapcon bolts.

    Review:
    It's made as advertised and is easily strong enough for my needs. I'm buy no means a strongman, but I wouldn't be worried about my safety dropping all +500lbs I've got on it. The paint is solid and decent; it's by no means automotive quality, but what you'd expect for industrial equipment. None of the holes have any external burrs and there are no sharp edges. I put the weight holders as low as they could go on the front and rear. I did have to crank on the plate holder bolts to get the metal to bend in, so they are tight on the rack. There is the slightest bit of lateral sway if try to rock it, and I did square it up before I bolted it down. I don't see the point of paying twice as much for a Rogue branded rack, unless I was trying to impress the internet. The only thing I don't like about it is the tubes that go over the solid steel sabers are hollow, so I have to make a conscious effort to get the saber through the tubes. I'd like swing out or the Rogue strap safeties, but they'd cost about half of what the rack cost. I just need to get a mat for dead lifts, as my previous rack had built-in pads.
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  11. #41
    Registered User squatplusoats's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by Murser View Post
    Short version: I'd buy it again and bolt it down.


    TLDR:

    I got mine assembled and bolted down yesterday. I had to cut about 2" off the uprights so they'd clear the sub floor above, a reciprocating saw took cut it fairly easily. I used a 15/16 socket and 24mm wrench to assemble it. I bolted it to my basement floor with 3"x3/8" Tapcon bolts.

    Review:
    It's made as advertised and is easily strong enough for my needs. I'm buy no means a strongman, but I wouldn't be worried about my safety dropping all +500lbs I've got on it. The paint is solid and decent; it's by no means automotive quality, but what you'd expect for industrial equipment. None of the holes have any external burrs and there are no sharp edges. I put the weight holders as low as they could go on the front and rear. I did have to crank on the plate holder bolts to get the metal to bend in, so they are tight on the rack. There is the slightest bit of lateral sway if try to rock it, and I did square it up before I bolted it down. I don't see the point of paying twice as much for a Rogue branded rack, unless I was trying to impress the internet. The only thing I don't like about it is the tubes that go over the solid steel sabers are hollow, so I have to make a conscious effort to get the saber through the tubes. I'd like swing out or the Rogue strap safeties, but they'd cost about half of what the rack cost. I just need to get a mat for dead lifts, as my previous rack had built-in pads.
    I agree man. Only thing is the sway, and it Rouge's has sway too then it's more how it's bolted down I guess. Wish I could have used concrete anchors but the floor was too uneven.
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  12. #42
    Registered User Murser's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by squatplusoats View Post
    I agree man. Only thing is the sway, and it Rouge's has sway too then it's more how it's bolted down I guess. Wish I could have used concrete anchors but the floor was too uneven.
    Have you seen these: roguefitness.com/rogue-rig-shims , or is it the finish heavily textured? I think if you used thin metal you could make some with a hacksaw and a hand drill.

    I'm thinking about filling the safety tubes with spray foam, so the sabers slide through easily, but am not sure about how it would hold up.
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  13. #43
    Registered User squatplusoats's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by Murser View Post
    Have you seen these: roguefitness.com/rogue-rig-shims , or is it the finish heavily textured? I think if you used thin metal you could make some with a hacksaw and a hand drill.

    I'm thinking about filling the safety tubes with spray foam, so the sabers slide through easily, but am not sure about how it would hold up.
    Wish I had seen those before, but it's kinda moot now. Plus I needed the platform to be level as well so I'm not squatting with one leg lower than the other.

    Interesting idea about the spray foam.
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  14. #44
    Registered User squatplusoats's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by squatplusoats View Post
    Wish I had seen those before, but it's kinda moot now. Plus I needed the platform to be level as well so I'm not squatting with one leg lower than the other.

    Interesting idea about the spray foam.
    I don't remember how wide the holes are that the sabers go into but if there's enough room you could get some real thin pipe and put it all the way through then put the saber through that
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  15. #45
    Registered User Murser's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by squatplusoats View Post
    I don't remember how wide the holes are that the sabers go into but if there's enough room you could get some real thin pipe and put it all the way through then put the saber through that
    Good idea. If anything the holes could be opened up, in order to get an inner pipe inside.
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  16. #46
    The Gougefather Stasher1's Avatar
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    If you're thinking about sleeving the pipe in a pin/pipe safety setup in order to eliminate some of the slop, you may be setting yourself up for a major problem later on. If you should ever have to drop a loaded bar on a modified set of pin/pipe safeties hard enough to bend the inner pin(s), you'd probably have a difficult time removing the safeties from the rack. They may even bend enough to require the use of a torch or saw to remove them.

    My $.02...use them as they were designed, or buy something different.
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  17. #47
    Registered User Murser's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by Stasher1 View Post
    If you're thinking about sleeving the pipe in a pin/pipe safety setup in order to eliminate some of the slop, you may be setting yourself up for a major problem later on. If you should ever have to drop a loaded bar on a modified set of pin/pipe safeties hard enough to bend the inner pin(s), you'd probably have a difficult time removing the safeties from the rack. They may even bend enough to require the use of a torch or saw to remove them.

    My $.02...use them as they were designed, or buy something different.
    Thanks for the advice.
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  18. #48
    Registered User throwaway3441's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by squatplusoats View Post
    *edit. Here's some pics


    Embedded.

    Congrats!
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  19. #49
    Registered User squatplusoats's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by Stasher1 View Post
    If you're thinking about sleeving the pipe in a pin/pipe safety setup in order to eliminate some of the slop, you may be setting yourself up for a major problem later on. If you should ever have to drop a loaded bar on a modified set of pin/pipe safeties hard enough to bend the inner pin(s), you'd probably have a difficult time removing the safeties from the rack. They may even bend enough to require the use of a torch or saw to remove them.

    My $.02...use them as they were designed, or buy something different.
    Very true. The spray foam seems like a good idea if you can actually fill it up and get the hole through
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  20. #50
    Registered User BiCepsTheRapist's Avatar
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    Have's the power rack arrived yet? and how good is it ?
    Originally Posted by Murser View Post
    I flipped the Cybex rack on craigslist, and ordered the Titan rack. I'll try to get a review done shortly after it arrives.
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  21. #51
    Registered User BiCepsTheRapist's Avatar
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    whats the max weight you can put on it?
    Originally Posted by Phictitious View Post
    Purchased this rack after seeing this thread. Figured I'd post some pics specifically the welds for those interested. If you want a picture of anything specific please let me know. This is my first rack so I can't really compare it to anything else but it seems very solid.
    Attachment 7097061
    Attachment 7097071
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    Attachment 7097111
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  22. #52
    Registered User Murser's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by BiCepsTheRapist View Post
    Have's the power rack arrived yet? and how good is it ?
    See post #40.
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  23. #53
    Registered User Murser's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by BiCepsTheRapist View Post
    whats the max weight you can put on it?
    Per the manufacturer: "Capacity: Over 1,000 lbs"
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  24. #54
    Registered User squatplusoats's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by BiCepsTheRapist View Post
    Have's the power rack arrived yet? and how good is it ?
    I like it. I dont regret buying it at all, but at the same time i havent been able to test it out. Most that ive failed with is is 255 incline bench and a friend did the same weight for squats and failed and the rack handled it no problem. i would trust it with 405 on my back but 500? idk itd have to earn that trust first haha. the thing with weight capacities i believe is that they are "static holds" so it can hold over 1000 pounds but how much can it take being dropped? its 11 gauge steel though same as the R3 so it should hold up to anything.
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  25. #55
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    Do you guys think any of the Rogue R-3 attachments would be compatible with this rack considering it is essentially a clone of the R-3? I'm thinking about the Matador attachment specifically.
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  26. #56
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    Originally Posted by HBXtremeMuscle View Post
    Do you guys think any of the Rogue R-3 attachments would be compatible with this rack considering it is essentially a clone of the R-3? I'm thinking about the Matador attachment specifically.
    Depends how they attach. I "think" this rack lacks holes on the wide face of the uprights, and I "think" that some rogue attachments use those holes. But apart from that, sure, 2x3 and same hole/pin size.
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    Originally Posted by Mech6 View Post
    Depends how they attach. I "think" this rack lacks holes on the wide face of the uprights, and I "think" that some rogue attachments use those holes. But apart from that, sure, 2x3 and same hole/pin size.
    Correct, there are only holes for about a foot at top and bottom of the wide face of the uprights.
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    Originally Posted by Mech6 View Post
    Depends how they attach. I "think" this rack lacks holes on the wide face of the uprights, and I "think" that some rogue attachments use those holes. But apart from that, sure, 2x3 and same hole/pin size.
    I believe the Matador dip attachment uses the front holes on the 2" part of the uprights to attach. Since the specs are the same with both racks I would assume the Rogue attachments would also work with the Titan. I have my Titan 2x3 arriving soon so maybe I'll order the Matador from Rogue and confirm for anyone who is interested.
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    Originally Posted by HBXtremeMuscle View Post
    I believe the Matador dip attachment uses the front holes on the 2" part of the uprights to attach. Since the specs are the same with both racks I would assume the Rogue attachments would also work with the Titan. I have my Titan 2x3 arriving soon so maybe I'll order the Matador from Rogue and confirm for anyone who is interested.
    I would assume they would but titan told me they would be coming out with a dip attachment for the 2x3 rack in about a month or so. Only thing I don't like sour the rack is the safeties. I'm REALLY. Considering using the spray foam idea. Idk how well it would work though and it could just create a mess.
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