Welding a simple power rack

[gijoe985]

Well, after reading this thread I have started to lean away from 3x3. I figured that it seemed like it is what is "popular" right now. Would you advise 2 x2 or 2x3?

I was going to weld the sides and then bolt the sides together with 3/8" backing plates. I was also planning on 3/8 plate for the j hooks. I'll have to look into making a setup like you had to bend the plate in our shop press.

I'm also uncertain if I want to do 5/8 rod with sleeves for my safety bars or if I want to use more tubing to make quick release ones. Or maybe both.

After this I may look into making a safety squat bar. I have a stack of old bars that I can use to modify...

[Mech6]

Well, after reading this thread I have started to lean away from 3x3. I figured that it seemed like it is what is "popular" right now. Would you advise 2 x2 or 2x3?

If you want holes along the side faces (for attachments or whatever), then I would do 2x3. Otherwise 2x2 is fine. Just have a way to bolt it to the floor or make it heavy enough (plate storage). 3/8" backing plates and j-hooks is fine also. The j-hooks are bent with a standard v-block. The little lip on the end is a bit tricky.

[gijoe985]

An interesting thought- If I wanted to reduce the holes drilled (if I end up having to drill them myself), couldn't you just make 2 different sets of j hooks that would give you the same as 1" spacing. Make 1 set of j hooks 1" shorter than the other. That way you can just drill 2" spacing, but depending on which set of j hooks you used, you'd have the flexibility of 1" spacing the whole way up.

[Mech6]

An interesting thought- If I wanted to reduce the holes drilled (if I end up having to drill them myself), couldn't you just make 2 different sets of j hooks that would give you the same as 1" spacing. Make 1 set of j hooks 1" shorter than the other. That way you can just drill 2" spacing, but depending on which set of j hooks you used, you'd have the flexibility of 1" spacing the whole way up.

Sure, but you'd have to do something similar with safeties. Honestly, 2" spacing is probably enough anyways. I like 1.5", but once again, more holes.

[gijoe985]

So. After looking at our supplies, we have a lot more 3/4" rod laying around than we do 5/8". Can anyone see any good reason not to use it instead, aside from it being a bit overkill?

[Mech6]

So. After looking at our supplies, we have a lot more 3/4" rod laying around than we do 5/8". Can anyone see any good reason not to use it instead, aside from it being a bit overkill?

Longer to drill, if you go that way. Rod is cheap, so you might be better off buying a length of 5/8". You may still come out ahead if you factor in time to make bigger holes. If you still want to use 3/4" then I wouldn't go below 1.5" spacing.

[gijoe985]

The beauty of being a shop teacher is that not only is my time "free", but I have many teenage slaves to employ...

[Mech6]

The beauty of being a shop teacher is that not only is my time "free", but I have many teenage slaves to employ...

I get it, but still, I'd rather do something else besides making holes. We're talking $20 of material here, if that.

[gijoe985]

I get it, but still, I'd rather do something else besides making holes. We're talking $20 of material here, if that.

Touche

[gijoe985]

So, I think I decided to make one that looks a lot like yours, except without the side holes. I don't see myself needing those. 2x3" for the main part, 2x2" for the weight storage. 3/4" Pins. 3/8" flat for backing plates and j hooks. I'll either do 2 sets of rod and sleeve style safety bars or 1 set of R&S and 1 quick set with 2x3 tubing. 2" Spacing on pin holes. Holestop and botton for band pins. Chain hooks on inside. And I hope to make a cool pull up bar with 1" and 1.5" horizontals, and then various bars in between for different grips.

I think it'll turn out nicely.

[gijoe985]

Hey Mech, how do you cure the powdercoat on something as big as a power rack? I assume you don't have a giant oven, but maybe you do. Is there a DIY option that it affordable? Paint is ok, but powder coat would be sweet. We only do smaller stuff in a home oven.

[Mech6]

Hey Mech, how do you cure the powdercoat on something as big as a power rack? I assume you don't have a giant oven, but maybe you do. Is there a DIY option that it affordable? Paint is ok, but powder coat would be sweet. We only do smaller stuff in a home oven.

I send it out for powder coat, and they have a huge oven, so it's no problem.

[Jeremy0203]

Nothing wrong with painting it if you have to. Check with local powdercoating shops if you have any and get prices. However if you are wanting to keep it as low cost as possible I foresee you ending up painting it.

[gijoe985]

So, I had my students build a press brake. They did a decent job. So far it is holding together. Either way, we bent some 1/4" flat bar with no problem, but when they went to bend the 3/8" the plate cracked. Now, this could be because it was just a smaller piece cut off of some larger stock we had laying around. Anyway, thoughts?

Another quick question as far as j hook dimensions go. How far do you have the j hook stick out from the rack (2"?) and then how high do you make your lip on the end? 1/4"?

THANKS

[59phinz]

but when they went to bend the 3/8" the plate cracked. Now, this could be because it was just a smaller piece cut off of some larger stock we had laying around. Anyway, thoughts?

I think your trouble may be the steel you selected.... If we're talking about 3/8" cold rolled plate, you're never going to be able to cold form a ninety degree bend... You could get away with this if you heated the part first, or if you used band saw to pre-cut 1/2 way through the part prior to bending (welding the corner after), but there isn't a chance of cold bending 3/8 cold rolled plate at a ninety. I'd suggest a change in material or a change in process if you want to get that ninety.

Here's a link with some good detail of proper steel/tooling/technique selection:
http://www.thefabricator.com/article...-heavy-bending

[gijoe985]

Well, afte reading the article, we were going against the grain. I thought that could have been our problem. We're getting our flat bar in today. I'll try again with the correct stuff and see how we do.

Cutting is under way!

[IMG]http://i698.photobucket.com/albums/vv348/gijoe985/Mobile%20Uploads/20140422_144920_zpsidg7***b.jpg[/IMG]

EDIT-
Weird, BB.com (or something) keeps changing the URL in this image so that the link will never work right... There should be a "***" where those three asterisk are.

Edit 2- obviously the letters in that URL are off limits on bb.com...

Also, our second cold bend attempt went well. So all we're waiting on now is the new drill bits to cut our holes...

[Mech6]

Ya, sorry, late reply. The way the piece is cut (grain) will have an impact. Also, is the width of your v-block enough?

[Jeremy0203]

Why use 3/8" for J hooks? 1/4" max is what I would use.

[gijoe985]

Why use 3/8" for J hooks? 1/4" max is what I would use.

We have plenty of it, why not? I also feel safer with 700lbs on 3/8" than 1/4".

[Mech6]

Why use 3/8" for J hooks? 1/4" max is what I would use.

I've always used 3/8". I made 1/4" thick ones, years and years ago. Loaded 800lbs (all I had) on a bar, rolled to the end of the j-hooks, stood on the bar, and bounced up and down. Hooks clearly started to wave downwward and not return to level. Might be a bit much for a test, but 3/8" doesn't have this problem.

[gijoe985]

Mech- Could you get me some basic dimensions from those quick remove safety bars you made? I've never seen them in person. The main thing I am curious about is how much of a gap there is between the end f the safety bar and the upright, once installed.

[Mech6]

Mech- Could you get me some basic dimensions from those quick remove safety bars you made? I've never seen them in person. The main thing I am curious about is how much of a gap there is between the end f the safety bar and the upright, once installed.

1" gap. Tubing length + flange thickness + short pin length = upright spacing - 3/8" clearance. So 29.25" for a 30" deep rack. Short pin length is 5/8" .
Long pin length is not really important. I make it 1.75"

[Mech6]

Warning, geekiness. Stress comparing a 2" wide j-hook, 1/4" thick and 3/8" thick. 500lbs STATIC load on very end of j-hook. 1/4" is not enough. 3/8" is twice as strong.

[gijoe985]

1" gap. Tubing length + flange thickness + short pin length = upright spacing - 3/8" clearance. So 29.25" for a 30" deep rack. Short pin length is 5/8" .
Long pin length is not really important. I make it 1.75"

You don't have the long pin go all the way through?

[Mech6]

You don't have the long pin go all the way through?

No, you won't be able to put in the safety in that case. It has to go in at an angle, then pivot into place. Unless your holes are waaaaay oversized.

[gijoe985]

No, you won't be able to put in the safety in that case. It has to go in at an angle, then pivot into place. Unless your holes are waaaaay oversized.

Got it!

[gijoe985]

Hey- firstly, thanks again for all the help. You're a wealth of knowledge and I bet this thread will help others in the future.

Two bench questions- 1)Any advice/suggestions for covering the bench? Foam? Vinyl/leather or whatnot? 2)Have you done an inclinable bench? I've only seen flat ones in your pictures.

[Mech6]

Hey- firstly, thanks again for all the help. You're a wealth of knowledge and I bet this thread will help others in the future.

Two bench questions- 1)Any advice/suggestions for covering the bench? Foam? Vinyl/leather or whatnot? 2)Have you done an inclinable bench? I've only seen flat ones in your pictures.

1. 1" Rebond foam + 1/2" closed-cell foam + vinyl on 3/4" plywood. GLUE THE FOAMS TOGETHER AND TO THE PLYWOOD! So important.
2. Yes, but not many, and basically copies of others. Nothing original. Although I have some ideas. Waiting from someone to bankroll me.

[gijoe985]

1. 1" Rebond foam + 1/2" closed-cell foam + vinyl on 3/4" plywood. GLUE THE FOAMS TOGETHER AND TO THE PLYWOOD! So important.
2. Yes, but not many, and basically copies of others. Nothing original. Although I have some ideas. Waiting from someone to bankroll me.

Sweet. Great advice. Sadly I can't just keep giving you reps... I may just copy the one from our school weight room. Or perhaps made a beefy flat bench and then a lighter duty incline one.

[gijoe985]

So, I'm running short on 2x3, but still have plenty of 2x2. Think that would be fine for safety bars? I have some 11ga like I used for the weight storage portion, but also have some 1/4" laying around as well.