Do you like your equipment extra beefy, or just enough?

[dukenukem7777]

I'm about to get some fitness equipment designed and produced for my company, and I'm looking for input from you guys. What I've noticed is this: You can make some things, like a squat rack or power rack with 2x2" 11 gauge and it's going to be strong enough to handle 1,000 lb squats. But it doesn't look as impressive as those beefy 2x3" or 3x3" racks and it's not quite as stable. How important is the appearance of this equipment versus the functionality to you guys? 2x2" is much cheaper to make and ship due to the weight savings. So if you had to choose a rack with 2x2" and it cost $500, and the 2x3" was $700, would you still want the 2x3" for the extra stability even if you are unlikely to ever test the limits of the 2x2"?

Also, any "must-have" things you look for in a power rack or a squat rack? Seems like a lot of guys here are fans of the Sorinex Dark Horse because of the weight storage, but that obviously adds cost to the rack. It also seems popular since you don't need to bolt it down. How much does bolting a rack down bother you? Deal-breaker? Would you rather have a $600 rack and buy a $150 weight tree, or would you want the built-in storage instead?

Feel free to also let me know anything you would love to see on a rack, or any other metal fitness product that you think needs to be improved or offered for a better price, etc...

I appreciate any input. We'll most likely be putting things into production next month and any great ideas will definitely be used.

[Stasher1]

I'd pay the extra for a 2x3 rack over a 2x2, just for the extra stability...and the appearance. The bigger, thicker racks simply look better.

As long as there are racks available that don't need to be bolted down, I won't buy one that I'd have to bolt.

As far as plate storage goes, I don't have a preference. My current basement layout means that I'm limited to racks without storage and separate plate trees, but I wouldn't shy away from a rack with storage if I had the room.

[Navyguy825]

I got the Dark Horse. The attached plate storage is nice because it adds to the overall footprint and weight thus improving stability.

As for bolting it down, obviously easier is always better so not having to is always a plus. Also I live in military base housing so drilling into the garage floor is not an option for me so I couldn't go that route anyways.

[LimitStrength]

I'm about to get some fitness equipment designed and produced for my company, and I'm looking for input from you guys. What I've noticed is this: You can make some things, like a squat rack or power rack with 2x2" 11 gauge and it's going to be strong enough to handle 1,000 lb squats. But it doesn't look as impressive as those beefy 2x3" or 3x3" racks and it's not quite as stable. How important is the appearance of this equipment versus the functionality to you guys? 2x2" is much cheaper to make and ship due to the weight savings. So if you had to choose a rack with 2x2" and it cost $500, and the 2x3" was $700, would you still want the 2x3" for the extra stability even if you are unlikely to ever test the limits of the 2x2"?

Also, any "must-have" things you look for in a power rack or a squat rack? Seems like a lot of guys here are fans of the Sorinex Dark Horse because of the weight storage, but that obviously adds cost to the rack. It also seems popular since you don't need to bolt it down. How much does bolting a rack down bother you? Deal-breaker? Would you rather have a $600 rack and buy a $150 weight tree, or would you want the built-in storage instead?

Feel free to also let me know anything you would love to see on a rack, or any other metal fitness product that you think needs to be improved or offered for a better price, etc...

I appreciate any input. We'll most likely be putting things into production next month and any great ideas will definitely be used.

For home gym or garage gyms I think 2x2 can be preferred due to lower shipping cost and ease of moving stuff around.

2x3 and 3x3 are definitely better for commercial since they can take more of a beating and won't run the risk of tipping when not bolted fown.

But as the gauge and dimensions increase, so does shipping cost, so bigger stuff is usually bought by commercial places.

As a powerlifter I love my 2x3 rogue R3, because of the band pegs, sumo base, close hole pattern, and affordable cost including shipping.

But most people would probably be interested in a 2x2 rack with some weight pegs so you can avoid the bolting down. For most, drilling into concrete or finished floors is not doable. A lot of people are weary of bolting down equipment.

I think a 2x2 rack with a wide or raised base (like the rogue or promaxima racks), with weight storage, even if minimal, to avoid bolting down, and reasonable hole spacing would be very popular, especially if it had a high weight capacity.

Just my thoughts

[jackbravo]

For home gym or garage gyms I think 2x2 can be preferred due to lower shipping cost and ease of moving stuff around.

2x3 and 3x3 are definitely better for commercial since they can take more of a beating and won't run the risk of tipping when not bolted fown.

But as the gauge and dimensions increase, so does shipping cost, so bigger stuff is usually bought by commercial places.

As a powerlifter I love my 2x3 rogue R3, because of the band pegs, sumo base, close hole pattern, and affordable cost including shipping.

But most people would probably be interested in a 2x2 rack with some weight pegs so you can avoid the bolting down. For most, drilling into concrete or finished floors is not doable. A lot of people are weary of bolting down equipment.

I think a 2x2 rack with a wide or raised base (like the rogue or promaxima racks), with weight storage, even if minimal, to avoid bolting down, and reasonable hole spacing would be very popular, especially if it had a high weight capacity.

Just my thoughts

3x3 11g with 2" hole spacing - beat the darkhorse in price with shipping and you'll own the market.

[a7stringkilla]

Overkill rules!!!

[dukenukem7777]

3x3 11g with 2" hole spacing - beat the darkhorse in price with shipping and you'll own the market.

Thanks for the input so far guys. I honestly think 2x3" is as beefy as we would go simply because I would like the attachments to work across the entire product line, so a dip attachment works on our power rack, squat rack, etc... And you can get some really good stability with that size, while still saving a bit on shipping and steel costs.

I agree with an earlier poster that a 2x2" rack might be preferable for home use. Unfortunately, at least to start, we can only build 1 or 2 power racks. Probably a 'basic' and then something with weight storage and more bells and whistles.

[dumb.bell]

I'd pay the extra for a 2x3 rack over a 2x2, just for the extra stability...and the appearance. The bigger, thicker racks simply look better.

As long as there are racks available that don't need to be bolted down, I won't buy one that I'd have to bolt.

It would be hard for me to say it any clearer than Stasher1 did. I would only add that not only would I pay extra for a 2x3, I would pay even more for a 3x3. With regards to plate storage, I can't see purchasing a rack without it unless it was an option that could be added later.

[Seatard]

When buying tools and equipment I go for "just enough". But that doesn't really mean anything.

My Powerline, Body Solid, Weider, and Cap stuff works perfect for me for the time being. Just like in my business, I don't want cash foolishly sunk into excess capacity. Forget about what I want because my type won't be making your company any money.

For other people my workout equipment would be more or less useless or need frequent replacement. It would be foolish not to go with a good barbell and the heavy duty rack du jour. I guess that is Sorinex now?

Then there are those who buy tons of equipment just to show pictures on forums or because they are bored. I'd make sure to sell whatever "Monster" stuff they want along with some of the more moderate quality stuff.

Good luck.

[jackbravo]

how about a 2x3 7 gauge? might be ideal in that it still fits the 2x3 profile but doesn't need to be bolted (?).


the thing about a home gym is it's easy to start out with "enough." the problem is, at least for me and several others who frequent this board (though I must tell you that there is a significant sample bias here), owning a home gym goes from just wanting to work out in your garage without hassle to developing pride for how good your gym is, how nice it looks, how well it's put together, and yes, how much social approval you get from the home gym. it goes from a necessity to a hobby. as a long-term hobby, it's easy to justify spending extra money because you prorate the cost in your mind for 2 decades. because of that sense of pride, many gym owners look for commercial quality equipment at a good price. if you can provide that, you'll have a following.

why would a home gym enthusiast go with an unknown company building the same stuff as Rogue - unless the price was significantly cheaper, reputation and customer service were tops. good luck with your business.

[ICEcap2]

I have a rack with 2x4 columns and 2x2 cross members. I had it unbolted on top of a rubber covered floor, but it moved around a little from racking the barbell on it, such that about every 3rd workout I would have to push it back in place. I got tired of that, so I bolted it down. Much more solid and it never moves. Note this rack has a 250 pulley weight stack on it and it still moved around.

[sherman]

During a lift the rack is not a participant, unless it is anchoring some bands. In a normal successful lift, the j-hooks, and whatever supports them, are the only parts of the rack that play a role (at the beginning and end, unracking and racking). If a lift fails, then the safeties, and whatever supports them, come into play.

A rack must be designed so that it will not fall over, either by bolting it to the floor or by designing resistance to tipping into the rack structure. Once that criteria is met, it doesn't take much steel to support a heavy bar on the j-hooks. But the safeties are different. They have to break the fall of a bar without deforming to the point that safety comes in contact with the lifter.

As far as I know there is no industry standard safety design, and it is rare, if ever, for a manufacture to spec what falling loads its safeties can withstand. Usually the manufacturer will state a maximum load for the rack without telling what the number actually means. It's easy and cheap to design very strong j-hooks and supporting structures, so a max load number for the rack could just mean j-hook load.

Without having any notion what what the safeties will withstand from a free falling bar, beefiness becomes a major factor in bar purchase. 2x3's have to be safer than 2x2's and 11 gauge has to be safer than 12 gauge. If there was a standard for the safeties, then a rack buyer could make a more intelligent choice.

It would be interesting to know what specs you are going to use for your new racks, especially for the safeties.

[Maluket]

You know a 3x3 11 gauge rack is going to be sturdy. Maybe you can make a 2x2 11 gauge rack that's just as sturdy as the other guys' 3x3 racks, but I'll never know it, because I won't buy it. The only way I'd ever buy it is if it had an insanely good reputation among people I trust. Otherwise, I'm getting the one I know is overdesigned for both my current needs and my possible future needs.

Weight storage is a nice-to-have, not a must have. Bolt down is an annoyance, not a deal breaker, and should be a positive once I get past the annoyance.

I have a Powertec rack that's adequate. IF I ever buy another rack, it's going to have to be well beyond adequate. Features I'd consider plusses, some of which are in conflict with each other, and in no particular order:

- 7 gauge motionless tank construction
- light enough to move around the garage if I want to
- 3x3 or even 3x4, but probably not 4x4 due to intrusion into the rack space, even if it looks sexy
- looks sexy
- small hole spacing in the flat benching area to get the safeties perfect (1" or 1.5" ideal, OK to get there with 2" or 3" spacing and a safety that has offset whatever and can be installed right side up or upside down to get the in-between settings)
- quick-to-adjust safeties
- walk through
- plate storage
- adjustable plate storage
- reasonably compact outer dimensions
- more room between uprights than standard
- bolt down unnecessary
- monkey bars or indexing rotating grips
- high enough to do standing presses in
- low enough that I can do pullups with bands without climbing on a stool
- dip attachment
- gleaming paint job in my choice of colors (which I will then proceed to wreck by actually using it)
- low band pegs
- band storage (both normal and mini)
- upscale J-hooks
- sumo base, but not so high I can't do deadlifts in the rack
- prices posted clearly online, shipping included (even if that means I subsidize shipping for people farther away - comparative pricing and point and click buying matter to me)

And yeah, gym equipment has over the years gone from the cheapest I can buy to accomplish how I want to work out to a hobby of trying to get EXACTLY what I want, whatever the cost, with the main restriction being how frequently I'm able to pay for cost-no-object pieces. I'm even designing my own equipment these days as part of the hobby when I can't find EXACTLY what I want already being sold. "Fortunately," my space is fairly limited, so I probably won't chase this hobby into the poor house.

[jmmainvi]

I'm about to get some fitness equipment designed and produced for my company, and I'm looking for input from you guys. What I've noticed is this: You can make some things, like a squat rack or power rack with 2x2" 11 gauge and it's going to be strong enough to handle 1,000 lb squats. But it doesn't look as impressive as those beefy 2x3" or 3x3" racks and it's not quite as stable. How important is the appearance of this equipment versus the functionality to you guys? 2x2" is much cheaper to make and ship due to the weight savings. So if you had to choose a rack with 2x2" and it cost $500, and the 2x3" was $700, would you still want the 2x3" for the extra stability even if you are unlikely to ever test the limits of the 2x2"?

There's a significant difference to the stability of a 2x2 rack vs a 3x3 rack. A 2x2 rack is going to shift a lot more when you set your squats down on it, and that's something I don't want. Sure, no squat is going to take down your rack in terms of its weight even if you have an "economy" 2x2 model, but it's going to feel a lot more sturdy to use a 2x3 or 3x3. If the difference is $200, I'm not sure which I would pick. If it's $150, I'm sure as hell going with the higher guage, and if it's $250 I'm probably going with the econ model.

Also, any "must-have" things you look for in a power rack or a squat rack? Seems like a lot of guys here are fans of the Sorinex Dark Horse because of the weight storage, but that obviously adds cost to the rack. It also seems popular since you don't need to bolt it down. How much does bolting a rack down bother you? Deal-breaker? Would you rather have a $600 rack and buy a $150 weight tree, or would you want the built-in storage instead?

These kinds of things are highly individual. Bolt-down racks are only useful in basement or garage gyms with cement floors - that limits anyone who has a weight room built into their house, or anyone who has a weird type of flooring in their gym. Even given that you have the concrete floors, you've got to own the building you're using, because no landlord (or military housing, or whatever) is going to be ok with you drilling holes in the floor. Storage like what's seen in the dark horse is more convenient, and it saves space horizontally but it takes up a lot more depth - the choice there is going to be about the dimensions of the room you have to work with, obviously. Given more than enough space in both directions, I think most people would chose the built-in storage. It adds stability to your rack, it's more convenient, and it's easier to add weight trees later than it is to add on the rack storage. BTW, the sorinex does sell a model with no storage - it's still $700 shipped iirc, so there's barely any price difference with a $150 weight tree (accounting for shipping on the tree).

Feel free to also let me know anything you would love to see on a rack, or any other metal fitness product that you think needs to be improved or offered for a better price, etc...

Again highly personal. I'm not really a bodybuilder, so as far as I'm concerned I need a rack that I can do squats in, and preferably that has chinup/monkey bars. Every other fancy addon is something that I'm going to get to play with, not something that I'm going to consider as a serious purchase. Dip add on? Better (and cheaper) to get rings. Landmine? why do I need that? Lat Tower? chins and pullups, cleans and deadlifts baby.

I appreciate any input. We'll most likely be putting things into production next month and any great ideas will definitely be used.

The one thing I would definitely appreciate is a taller chin/pullup bar. At 6'4, I can reach most pullup bars with my feet flat on the ground, for example the R3. It's not a huge thing, but it's mentally tough to force out that last rep that you think you "might" be able to get when your feet are already on the ground. I also find myself stopping every 4-5 reps to adjust my grip, and I don't think I would do that if I needed to get on my toes or even jump an inch or three to get to the bar. Find a way to sell that as an attachment (with various grips) and I'd DEFINITELY buy it.

Other things that would be awesome (off the top of my head):
- Can be bolted down but does not require it
- bottom cross member positioned so that you can bench using either upright
- band pegs as an extra, not included (seriously I will never use these, why are they costing me more money?)
- plate storage should be adjustable if it exists.
- high enough to press inside (lol never gonna happen)
- choice of color
- quality j-hooks by default

[Detrus]

It makes sense to use 2x3 when you have a line of products like Rouge, all using the same uprights. Half rack and full rack are made from 2x3 but the full rack doesn't need it. The half rack does because of cantilevered safeties.

Rogue is also testing a 2x3 4 ft square rack but the owner doesn't like it. https://www.********.com/photo.php?f...type=1&theater

per multiple requests we made an Econ rack with 2X2 tubing(rack in the front). I have to admit this is the first rack we have made that I really don't like. Just doesn't look/feel like the R-4 or RM-4

We will make it if you would like us to, it will be less expensive than the R-4

[Kodokan]

2x2 would be perfectly fine if it didn't wobble...I'd make the posts have feet and not run along the ground with a crossmember so that it would be more stable, provide a sumo base, and allow for tethering bands. Weight storage would be a big plus, and if you're catering to the crossfitters then just do 4 pegs on the bag evenly spaced so they can put their bumpers on there.

Don't forget a pull-up bar, too! People will want that. Got to have 2" hole spacing at least in the bench region...

[BloodType3R]

how about a 2x3 7 gauge? might be ideal in that it still fits the 2x3 profile but doesn't need to be bolted (?).


the thing about a home gym is it's easy to start out with "enough." the problem is, at least for me and several others who frequent this board (though I must tell you that there is a significant sample bias here), owning a home gym goes from just wanting to work out in your garage without hassle to developing pride for how good your gym is, how nice it looks, how well it's put together, and yes, how much social approval you get from the home gym. it goes from a necessity to a hobby. as a long-term hobby, it's easy to justify spending extra money because you prorate the cost in your mind for 2 decades. because of that sense of pride, many gym owners look for commercial quality equipment at a good price. if you can provide that, you'll have a following.

why would a home gym enthusiast go with an unknown company building the same stuff as Rogue - unless the price was significantly cheaper, reputation and customer service were tops. good luck with your business.

[dukenukem7777]

Thanks for all of your input so far guys. I'm checking this thread multiple times per day, and something _will_ get made.

[817boy]

Thanks for all of your input so far guys. I'm checking this thread multiple times per day, and something _will_ get made.

I dont see what the big deal about bolting down racks is, put a 4x8 3/4" plywood down then throw a stall mat on top of that then bolt down the rack thru the stall mat into the plywood. I dont care if you have a 2x2 or 3x3, bolting the rack down is just common sense. I have seen a heavy 4x4 monolift tip over so why wouldnt a lighter power rack?

Not trying to spam but you should check out SnP equipment, he makes 2x2 or 3x3 11gauge racks for a good price and his shipping is very reasonable. He can also customize your rack to whatever you want.


This is a 2x2 rack and bench he made for a customer(dip handles not pictured) in michigan for $1550 including freight from texas to michigan

Here is a 3x3 rack he made
http://www.ironaddicts.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=34711

http://www.snpequipment.com/

[817boy]

to answer your question

when i buy a nicer squat rack once i get a bigger home w/ a bigger garage. I plan on getting a 2x2, I dont think anyone needs more than that for home gym unless they are moving heavy weight or they absolutely can not bolt down their rack.

3x3 looks nicer and is more sturdy but i wouldnt pay more than $500 extra for it.

Reason people like the dark horse, because it is the best bang for your buck right now. it has 3x3 11 gauge steel and has 2 inch hole spacing and weight storage racks (which i consider an awesome feature).

If sorinex was smart they would build a SON OF DARK HORSE or DARK HORSE JR. a 2x2 11 gauge rack w/ 2 inch spacing and weight storage racks for $200-$250 cheaper. This would open up the market for people on a strict budget and would KILL THE R3

[Stasher1]

If sorinex was smart they would build a SON OF DARK HORSE or DARK HORSE JR. a 2x2 11 gauge rack w/ 2 inch spacing and weight storage racks for $200-$250 cheaper. This would open up the market for people on a strict budget and would KILL THE R3

Dark Pony.

[scottofio]

Black Pony is the nickname of my DH rack (as a joke). Been trying to come up with a better one, but nothing has stuck yet.

[Stasher1]

They could even keep the Dark Horse name, but break it into different categories like Clydesdale and Pony or something.

Apologies to the OP for helping to steer this thread OT.

[SeanVHA60013]

Not trying to spam but you should check out SnP equipment, he makes 2x2 or 3x3 11gauge racks for a good price and his shipping is very reasonable. He can also customize your rack to whatever you want.

###IMAGE OF COOL YELLOW POWER RACK NOT HERE BECAUSE OF 50 POST RULE###

That is a great looking rack! Any idea what his average time frame is from start to finish on such a rack?

[817boy]

That is a great looking rack! Any idea what his average time frame is from start to finish on such a rack?

Not sure, you can email him here: snpequipment@gmail.com
His name is Scott and he usually replies fast

If you look at this forum (theres 4 pages) you can look at some of his work he has done.
http://www.ironaddicts.com/forums/fo...play.php?f=186

[dumb.bell]

I dont see what the big deal about bolting down racks is, put a 4x8 3/4" plywood down then throw a stall mat on top of that then bolt down the rack thru the stall mat into the plywood.

My thoughts exactly. I would prefer this setup to actually putting it in concrete. This allows you to move it around without having to drill more holes.

[-aesop-]

I like beefy material, just so things feel solid when racking and un-racking weight, and the solid feel of working in a rack day in and day out. A 2x3 rack will accomplish this handily, and looks good too. I've had plenty of use with 2x2 rack and squat stands - hate them all, lol. I would greatly prefer plate storage on a rack. Prefer it that way at a gym, and would prefer it that way at home as well.

[MikeKK]

I like it porky. Just "ok for now" equipment doesn't cut it. After bending my crappy 700lb barbell on 300lb deads I decided that whenever I buy something it should outlast me. Since then got me strong power rack, barbell, bench etc

[Terpgym]

I'm about to get some fitness equipment designed and produced for my company, and I'm looking for input from you guys. What I've noticed is this: You can make some things, like a squat rack or power rack with 2x2" 11 gauge and it's going to be strong enough to handle 1,000 lb squats. But it doesn't look as impressive as those beefy 2x3" or 3x3" racks and it's not quite as stable. How important is the appearance of this equipment versus the functionality to you guys? 2x2" is much cheaper to make and ship due to the weight savings. So if you had to choose a rack with 2x2" and it cost $500, and the 2x3" was $700, would you still want the 2x3" for the extra stability even if you are unlikely to ever test the limits of the 2x2"?

Also, any "must-have" things you look for in a power rack or a squat rack? Seems like a lot of guys here are fans of the Sorinex Dark Horse because of the weight storage, but that obviously adds cost to the rack. It also seems popular since you don't need to bolt it down. How much does bolting a rack down bother you? Deal-breaker? Would you rather have a $600 rack and buy a $150 weight tree, or would you want the built-in storage instead?

Feel free to also let me know anything you would love to see on a rack, or any other metal fitness product that you think needs to be improved or offered for a better price, etc...

I appreciate any input. We'll most likely be putting things into production next month and any great ideas will definitely be used.

Many people want to put their squat rack right up against a wall in their garage, and thus don't really have room for weight storage posts behind the rack. For most people in this situation, I think a rack like these (2x2) in a 7 gauge version and a bolt-down option would be perfect, especially when used in conjunction with a monolift attachment:

http://www.gophersport.com/mobile/it...m?item_id=1103
http://1500lb.com/sumopowerracks.html

7 gauge would really add some heft to the 2x2 and put it on par with 2x3 11 gauge in terms of how solid it feels. If you can come up with a bolted version with sufficient cross-bracing and with a rear cross-member, you might have the holy grail for a lot of people with tight garage space.

[MEDPILOT]

There's a significant difference to the stability of a 2x2 rack vs a 3x3 rack. A 2x2 rack is going to shift a lot more when you set your squats down on it, and that's something I don't want. Sure, no squat is going to take down your rack in terms of its weight even if you have an "economy" 2x2 model, but it's going to feel a lot more sturdy to use a 2x3 or 3x3. If the difference is $200, I'm not sure which I would pick. If it's $150, I'm sure as hell going with the higher guage, and if it's $250 I'm probably going with the econ model.



These kinds of things are highly individual. Bolt-down racks are only useful in basement or garage gyms with cement floors - that limits anyone who has a weight room built into their house, or anyone who has a weird type of flooring in their gym. Even given that you have the concrete floors, you've got to own the building you're using, because no landlord (or military housing, or whatever) is going to be ok with you drilling holes in the floor. Storage like what's seen in the dark horse is more convenient, and it saves space horizontally but it takes up a lot more depth - the choice there is going to be about the dimensions of the room you have to work with, obviously. Given more than enough space in both directions, I think most people would chose the built-in storage. It adds stability to your rack, it's more convenient, and it's easier to add weight trees later than it is to add on the rack storage. BTW, the sorinex does sell a model with no storage - it's still $700 shipped iirc, so there's barely any price difference with a $150 weight tree (accounting for shipping on the tree).



Again highly personal. I'm not really a bodybuilder, so as far as I'm concerned I need a rack that I can do squats in, and preferably that has chinup/monkey bars. Every other fancy addon is something that I'm going to get to play with, not something that I'm going to consider as a serious purchase. Dip add on? Better (and cheaper) to get rings. Landmine? why do I need that? Lat Tower? chins and pullups, cleans and deadlifts baby.



The one thing I would definitely appreciate is a taller chin/pullup bar. At 6'4, I can reach most pullup bars with my feet flat on the ground, for example the R3. It's not a huge thing, but it's mentally tough to force out that last rep that you think you "might" be able to get when your feet are already on the ground. I also find myself stopping every 4-5 reps to adjust my grip, and I don't think I would do that if I needed to get on my toes or even jump an inch or three to get to the bar. Find a way to sell that as an attachment (with various grips) and I'd DEFINITELY buy it.

Other things that would be awesome (off the top of my head):
- Can be bolted down but does not require it
- bottom cross member positioned so that you can bench using either upright
- band pegs as an extra, not included (seriously I will never use these, why are they costing me more money?)
- plate storage should be adjustable if it exists.
- high enough to press inside (lol never gonna happen)
- choice of color
- quality j-hooks by default

That's why I'm going with a rack built by Rae Crowther. They offer a lot of options on their racks and the prices are all laid out. Not sure why they are rarely mentioned here.
3x3 uprights
1.5" spacing
Monkey bar
Dip attachment
Movable weight horns
Optional band pegs
Upgraded j-hooks (with roller tappets)
Storage hooks
Bar storage
Custom colors
And they'll make the rack any height you want
It's about a 30 build time

Mine should be done in about two weeks.