Evening BB,
Just a quick question whilst it's -1oC outside in the day and a few degrees colder over night.
Is your home gym, (I presume most people make use of a garage / out building / shed / spare room etc) Insulated, heated or cooled?
I'm currently using my garage as my home gym as I out grew my spare bedroom as it was only 12feet x 7.5 feet and in an upstairs room.
My garage gym is 15 feet x 9 feet so a little larger than the bedroom but not a massive amount.
My garage started out complete uninsulated, single skin block construction with a wooden, felt roof.
I have insulated the up and over door with 2 layers of the foil backed bubble wrap and 50mm of polystyrene insulated, all joints taped. Door frame silicone sealed and expanding foam where required.
I have also insulated the roof with 100mm of rockwool with a 50mm air gap and plasterboard underneath. I have an air con unit in the garage and a 2kw heater.
In the summer the room is much cooler than it was and almost bearable in the winter.
It takes a few minutes (10-15mins) to heat the garage upto 10 degrees or so in the winter when its just above freezing point.
The air con unit brings then temperature down to 17oC in a matter of minutes, the air con unit is good.
I have also used a rubber seal around the base of the garage and a weatherproof strip. With two layers of heavy duty carpet on the flooe (mainly to stop dust kicking up) with 18mm horse stall mats above for shock absorbtion.
I was wandering if anyone has insulated the walls, I imagine with batton and celotex or polystyrene as my walls are bloody freezing!
Will applying 25mm of celetex be enough? Is it worth losing 50mm of the width of the room for the additional warmth?
If the garage was larger 12 feet x 20 feet or so I would definately insulate it but it hardly seems worth it for such a tiny space? I also have to think of the re sale value when I sell the house in three years or so when we up size.
So there we go, have you insulated yours, heated or cooled?
Here is a pic of my tiny gym room (the pic is before my pro style dumbells arrived, rack, weight tree and with my old POS lat pull down machine.
Bear in mind I'm in the UK and are houses and garages are generally tiny.
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01-20-2013, 10:54 AM #1
- Join Date: Nov 2012
- Location: United Kingdom (Great Britain)
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Is your home gym room insulated? Heated and cooled?
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01-20-2013, 11:00 AM #2
- Join Date: May 2009
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Your garage construction is exactly the same as mine minus the roof design. I have no insulation whatsoever and the garage is generally 3 degrees centigrade higher than the outside air temp. As for the insulation It will make a difference but the biggest loss of heat from a building is through air flow. Have you got all the air leaks plugged up and is the garage attached to the house?
New Evolution shat on me
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01-20-2013, 11:06 AM #3
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I was wandering if anyone has insulated the walls, I imagine with batton and celotex or polystyrene as my walls are bloody freezing!
Will applying 25mm of celetex be enough? Is it worth losing 50mm of the width of the room for the additional warmth?
If the garage was larger 12 feet x 20 feet or so I would definately insulate it but it hardly seems worth it for such a tiny space? I also have to think of the re sale value when I sell the house in three years or so when we up size.
I got away with battoning with 1x2 inch battons, and used 12mm celotex to fill the voids. 12mm is cheap, but give more then enough insulation for gym use- without taking up too much space. It worked out great, the room would heat up in seconds with a small fan heater in the winter. And in the summer on the hottest of days, it would stay nice and cool. Total cost it not as much as you would think if you do the work yourself. Its worth noting that the blocks we used to build the outbuilding were celcons which are aerated and very unsulating by themselves. The blocks you have in your garage could well be cooncrete depending on when it was built. A quick tap on the brick will tell you which one it is.
Fook it is cold today!My training log:
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http://forum.bodybuilding.com/showthread.php?t=153596291&p=1062453741#post1062453741
[]---[] Equipment Crew #43 []---[]
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01-20-2013, 11:06 AM #4
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I've sealed all holes with expanding foam / silicone, the door is sealed as well as possible, with weather strip / silicone / expanding foam.
It's a stand alone garage that's not attached to the house, it's about 5 metres behind the house so it doesn't suck any heat out from the house.
The garage is rendered (I think it's called that) outside and I've painted it with weatherbase paint inside so should be pretty well sealed.
I've even insulated the air con unit exhaust pipe to stop the warm air re circing into the room, it was a 5" extract duct.
Are you able to heat your garage with no insulation?
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01-20-2013, 11:12 AM #5
- Join Date: Nov 2012
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Thanks for your comments mate. I didn't think of using 12mm celotex to be honest, did you plasterboard over the celotex?
I could use 12mm and that should heat up much quicker, without taking up much space what so ever.
I would carry out all of the work myself, that's not a problem.
If I had a door to access the garage instead of using the up and over door, I would put a stud wall up infront of the garage door.
Unfortunately the garage is made of blue elvin block, which is very hard, almost like Cornish Granite.
Thanks for your help, that's a really good idea to have in mind.
It doesn't need any planning permission or to meet any thermal regs or R values as it's staying as a garage (even though you can only keep a small car in there lol.
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01-20-2013, 11:22 AM #6
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I just put the batons in to the wall with frame fixings at 2ft intervals (it helps to have a sick marked out with the measurement, and you'll need a level. I then cut the celotex tight into the batons. That way you can just push it in and it jamms itself into place and leaves an air gap behind. A couple of sidways nails make sure it stays in place. I think the proper way is to put the board straight over the wood to stop the wood conducting, but in a small space like a garage, every cm counts.
Doing it the way I did it, your materials will be about £25-30 per 8x4ft area (as a rough guide).My training log:
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http://forum.bodybuilding.com/showthread.php?t=153596291&p=1062453741#post1062453741
[]---[] Equipment Crew #43 []---[]
-!!!---!!!- No Excuses Homemade Equipment Crew #1 -!!!---!!!-
()---() York Barbell Club #4 ()---()
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01-20-2013, 11:26 AM #7
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01-20-2013, 11:32 AM #8
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01-20-2013, 11:40 AM #9
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01-20-2013, 11:45 AM #10
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All done, you might get it twice as I had to resend when I lost signal.
The pic where you can see the pboard on its side- it was just stored there. When you do it, you want the boards stood tall if that makes sense. For the smaller cut coards above, make sure you stagger the joins.My training log:
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http://forum.bodybuilding.com/showthread.php?t=153596291&p=1062453741#post1062453741
[]---[] Equipment Crew #43 []---[]
-!!!---!!!- No Excuses Homemade Equipment Crew #1 -!!!---!!!-
()---() York Barbell Club #4 ()---()
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01-20-2013, 11:48 AM #11
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01-20-2013, 11:54 AM #12
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01-20-2013, 11:57 AM #13
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No problems mate, I can't rep you again for your help for 24 hours but will do so when I can for the help.
The bubble wrap is great for garage doors as it reflects the heat from the sun.
I'm glad that it made a big difference as I'm very tempted...
I think I'll miss the 'hard core' block work though... It looks bad ass lol...
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01-20-2013, 12:34 PM #14
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01-20-2013, 01:35 PM #15
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01-20-2013, 01:55 PM #16
- Join Date: May 2009
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01-20-2013, 04:06 PM #17
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01-21-2013, 05:11 AM #18
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