I just received my EliteFTS rack but did not realize it doesn't come with UHMW protection. I'd imagine this may eventually cause excessive wear for both the rack and my TPB knurl. Does anyone have a solution that will provide a bit of lasting protection?
I just received my EliteFTS rack but did not realize it doesn't come with UHMW protection. I'd imagine this may eventually cause excessive wear for both the rack and my TPB knurl. Does anyone have a solution that will provide a bit of lasting protection?
I have the BWTG Jhook and didnt get his UHMW protection cuz it seemed excessively bulky. So yesterday i went to Lowes and got some Industrial Strength Velcro. cost $2.50 per pack (1 pack covered 1 Jcup). I put them on yesterday but im not sure how long the velcro will last. If it doesnt last ohh well i never really understood why people would want to protect the knurl that far out (unless youre doing olympic lifts).
I used the fuzzy part of velcro on the Jhook.
Im doing a review later on today and ill snap a pic of the velcro.
It surprises me how many people refuse to buy equipment from Elitefts because its too expensive but they will buy equipment from their competitors, then continue to go on EFS website regulary to educate themselves for FREE
I have the BWTG Jhook and didnt get his UHMW protection cuz it seemed excessively bulky. So yesterday i went to Lowes and got some Industrial Strength Velcro. cost $2.50 per pack (1 pack covered 1 Jcup). I put them on yesterday but im not sure how long the velcro will last. If it doesnt last ohh well i never really understood why people would want to protect the knurl that far out (unless youre doing olympic lifts).
I used the fuzzy part of velcro on the Jhook.
Im doing a review later on today and ill snap a pic of the velcro.
I purchased 1/4" thick black UHMW from DrillSpot.com and 3M VHB (very high bond) tape part # 4952 from seller vhbtape on eBay. UHMW is apparently very difficult to glue or stick to anything because it has what's referred to as a "low energy" surface, and you need special (and unfortunately expensive) epoxy or tape. 3M makes a ton of different kinds of double-sided foam VHB tape, but #4952 is the only type I could find that they recommend for low-energy surfaces. Some places use screws to hold it down instead of adhesive.
I cut the UHMW using a jigsaw and then used a grinder to smooth the edges. I roughed up one side with sandpaper and attached the tape to it. I installed the UHMW a week ago and it seems to be holding up well. The real test will be what shape it's in a year from now.
If I had to do it again, I would have bought a thinner UHMW. I think 1/4" was overkill and a little difficult to work with.
It surprises me how many people refuse to buy equipment from Elitefts because its too expensive but they will buy equipment from their competitors, then continue to go on EFS website regulary to educate themselves for FREE
I just received my EliteFTS rack but did not realize it doesn't come with UHMW protection. I'd imagine this may eventually cause excessive wear for both the rack and my TPB knurl. Does anyone have a solution that will provide a bit of lasting protection?
What about truck bed liner spray? I've never tried it but it might help.
()---() York Barbell Club #30 ()---()
www.garageiron.com
I purchased 1/4" thick black UHMW from DrillSpot.com and 3M VHB (very high bond) tape part # 4952 from seller vhbtape on eBay. UHMW is apparently very difficult to glue or stick to anything because it has what's referred to as a "low energy" surface, and you need special (and unfortunately expensive) epoxy or tape. 3M makes a ton of different kinds of double-sided foam VHB tape, but #4952 is the only type I could find that they recommend for low-energy surfaces. Some places use screws to hold it down instead of adhesive.
I cut the UHMW using a jigsaw and then used a grinder to smooth the edges. I roughed up one side with sandpaper and attached the tape to it. I installed the UHMW a week ago and it seems to be holding up well. The real test will be what shape it's in a year from now.
If I had to do it again, I would have bought a thinner UHMW. I think 1/4" was overkill and a little difficult to work with.
Thanks for the detailed info. I ordered the 1/8" 2'x4' sheet from Amazon ($45) so I can also line the quick release pins. Ordered the 4952 tape too. $55 isnt cheap but ordering the collegiate pins and hooks from Elite would have been hundreds more.
What about truck bed liner spray? I've never tried it but it might help.
I've tried a couple different brands of this and haven't been super impressed with the durability. I may have put it on to thick, but I am gonna have to go back and repaint at some point.
I used some UHMW on my safety hooks. I drilled and tapped holes in the hooks, then drilled chamfered holes in the UHMW and bolted them on. Works great and has held up well this past year.
If God had wanted us to be weak, He wouldn't have given us iron.
[]---[] Equipment Crew #28 []---[]
()---() York Barbell Club #28 ()---()
I got adhesive backed UHMW from McMaster-Carr. Abrasion resistant/low friction.
It does get chewed up a little when the bar is under load but I suspect it will still take you years to get through 1/4", unless you really like sawing the bar back and forth. I've had a thin 1/16" sheet on my hooks for about a year - it still looks mostly fine. I'll probably replace it in a year or two.
I purchased 1/4" thick black UHMW from DrillSpot.com and 3M VHB (very high bond) tape part # 4952 from seller vhbtape on eBay. UHMW is apparently very difficult to glue or stick to anything because it has what's referred to as a "low energy" surface, and you need special (and unfortunately expensive) epoxy or tape. 3M makes a ton of different kinds of double-sided foam VHB tape, but #4952 is the only type I could find that they recommend for low-energy surfaces. Some places use screws to hold it down instead of adhesive.
I cut the UHMW using a jigsaw and then used a grinder to smooth the edges. I roughed up one side with sandpaper and attached the tape to it. I installed the UHMW a week ago and it seems to be holding up well. The real test will be what shape it's in a year from now.
If I had to do it again, I would have bought a thinner UHMW. I think 1/4" was overkill and a little difficult to work with.
I just finished lining my spotter arms with UHMW from Mcmaster-Carr. They were a great company to deal with. Someone answered the phone after two rings, they were knowledgeable, and the most of the stuff was at my house in within 24 hrs. Here's a pic. Thanks for the information everyone and for starting this thread BAVE !
I just finished lining my spotter arms with UHMW from Mcmaster-Carr. They were a great company to deal with. Someone answered the phone after two rings, they were knowledgeable, and the most of the stuff was at my house in within 24 hrs. Here's a pic. Thanks for the information everyone and for starting this thread BAVE !
Tell us how you did it.
You need a rack, bench and 300-lb. Oly set. Now, what was your question?
()---() York Barbell Club #1 ()---() []---[] Equipment Crew #36 []---[] []---[] Ivanko Barbell Crew #51 []---[]
It surprises me how many people refuse to buy equipment from Elitefts because its too expensive but they will buy equipment from their competitors, then continue to go on EFS website regulary to educate themselves for FREE
I cut the strips of 1/8 " UMHW to length. Predrilled the spots I wanted to attach to the arms with a large enough drillbit to countersink the tapered screw heads. Then layed them on the spotter arms as a template for drilling the screw holes into the steel of the arms. Then I tapped the the holes for the screw threads. Then screwed the UHMW to the arms. Really wasn't that bad at all. Now I can start abusing those arms without feeling like I'm destroying the paint job. I plan on doing the J Hooks the same way. Here's another pic.
I cut the strips of 1/8 " UMHW to length. Predrilled the spots I wanted to attach to the arms with a large enough drillbit to countersink the tapered screw heads. Then layed them on the spotter arms as a template for drilling the screw holes into the steel of the arms. Then I tapped the the holes for the screw threads. Then screwed the UHMW to the arms. Really wasn't that bad at all. Now I can start abusing those arms without feeling like I'm destroying the paint job. I plan on doing the J Hooks the same way. Here's another pic.
It surprises me how many people refuse to buy equipment from Elitefts because its too expensive but they will buy equipment from their competitors, then continue to go on EFS website regulary to educate themselves for FREE
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