just got my new rack,
its 2300mm high, but i need it to be 2100mm ,
which part would you cut out?
the top crossmembers have a 1" solid bar with a tapped hole, it inserts from one side with a 1" hole and a smaller hole on the other side for the bolt.
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12-04-2012, 06:58 AM #1
- Join Date: Sep 2010
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how would you go about cutting this rack down?
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12-04-2012, 07:05 AM #2
For that rack cut it at the bottom above the screw plate part on the post. Or get get new plates, but they may be difficult unless you go to a metal supplier.
Then get a mobile welder to come to your house and weld it back on the screw plate part. You can find mobile welders on CL or yellow pages, its not even that expensive really. They have a truck and do the work on site.
Thats what I would do. But think about it some more and get different opinions.[]---[] Equipment Crew #6 []---[]
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12-04-2012, 07:07 AM #3
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I'd take the 200mm out of the bottom of the uprights, where they attach to the base. It'll be easier to weld the plates back on to the bottom of the uprights than it would be to reconstruct the top portion(s) of the sides.
"What lies behind us and what lies before us are tiny matters compared to what lies within us." - Ralph Waldo Emerson
"An adult male weighs at least 200 pounds." - Mark Rippetoe
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12-04-2012, 07:08 AM #4
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12-04-2012, 07:13 AM #5
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12-04-2012, 07:24 AM #6
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thanks!
will be removing it from the bottom,
makes the most sense, i can cut it up at home and take it into a welder to weld it back, (base plates are 1/2" thick!)
regarding the bottom cross memeber, it doesnt seem to need it, the rack doesnt even shake on unevan ground because the bent steel triangles on the front.-!!!---!!!- No Excuses Homemade Equipment Crew #4 -!!!---!!!-
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12-04-2012, 07:41 AM #7
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12-04-2012, 07:48 AM #8
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12-04-2012, 07:49 AM #9
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12-04-2012, 07:58 AM #10
Prior to cutting it down, spend some time in it doing a few squats to figure out your ideal height for setting the safeties. You might end up wanting to remove a bit more of the upright than originally planned if it means that you'll be able to set the safeties in a better position. E.g. if cutting out only 200mm puts the safeties 25mm above where you'd like them to be, then it'd make more sense to cut out 225mm instead.
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12-04-2012, 08:10 AM #11
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12-04-2012, 08:49 AM #12
Maybe you could find a piece of square steel tubing or channel to telescope inside the uprights. Then cut above the bottom, cut out the amount of upright you don't need, telescope the steel tubing inside, put it back together, then weld the seam in the uprights.
I'm suggesting this in case you can't fully trust the new welds to to handle the stresses. Otherwise no need.
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12-04-2012, 10:03 AM #13
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A agree with KB and Accutron, go for the bottom and then use your welding skillz to make good. Great idea also from kb about optimising the hieght of the holes to you.
My training log:
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http://forum.bodybuilding.com/showthread.php?t=153596291&p=1062453741#post1062453741
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12-04-2012, 10:17 AM #14
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12-04-2012, 11:06 AM #15
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regards to the spacing, decided now to get a hole drilled between each predrilled hole, giving me 2" spacing so shouldnt be an issue. Should only cost $30 max.
going to have the guy i got to weld my log to do the cutting and welding, as everything has to be perfectly straight and i don't quite trust my cutoff saws clamp to do it.
not looking forward to having to carry each part up the workshop though.
got the rack at half the price of a home quality one here and its 4mm thick, so im happy lol.-!!!---!!!- No Excuses Homemade Equipment Crew #4 -!!!---!!!-
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12-04-2012, 11:13 AM #16
To cut down that rack I'd say...
"Look rack, your old, your narrow, your scuffed and your rusty. You better get your act together or I'll take you to the scrap yard."
That should set it straight.If God had wanted us to be weak, He wouldn't have given us iron.
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12-05-2012, 05:47 AM #17
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does a rack slide around on plywood when not bolted? my strut rack was bolted down so i didnt have the problem,
the rack at the local gym i've been to slides around quite abit when you re-rack but there floors barely have grip. Debating wether to get rid of the ply and put it directly on the stall mats-!!!---!!!- No Excuses Homemade Equipment Crew #4 -!!!---!!!-
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12-05-2012, 07:36 AM #18
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Since the rack isn't real heavy , or doesn't have plate holders for additional weight, it will probably move around a little. My old rack moved a little even on stall mats. but the movement was slight and only when racking the bar after heavy squats.
If you put holes between each predrilled hole that will be 10 new sets of holes at 8 holes apiece (double sided), plan on more than $30 , but I still think it's a great idea as long as the price is decent. You probably won't need a set at to or the bottom, and maybe even a few more if you need to save some money.
Nice pickup on the rack BTW, it looks real sturdy, repped ! Good luck."Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do, than by the ones you did" Mark Twain
"Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats" H. L. Mencken
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12-07-2012, 04:51 AM #19
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12-07-2012, 06:48 AM #20
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12-07-2012, 07:00 AM #21
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12-07-2012, 07:22 AM #22
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12-07-2012, 08:33 AM #23
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12-07-2012, 11:51 AM #24
- Join Date: Mar 2011
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"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do, than by the ones you did" Mark Twain
"Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats" H. L. Mencken
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12-07-2012, 12:39 PM #25
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12-07-2012, 04:36 PM #26
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12-10-2012, 10:42 AM #27
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got the rack back today, confusion in communication with the welder, he thought i meant only a hole between 2 and 8, when i meant a hole between each hole 2 to 8, nevermind, it turned out perfect for bench, luckly.
i wouldve happily paid $30 just for the cutting and welds.
can see the thickness alot better now, def 4mm, solid.
need jhooks now though, would half a solid threaded dumbell be strong enough for this with a welded cap on the end?
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