how would you go about cutting this rack down?

[owasM]

just got my new rack,
its 2300mm high, but i need it to be 2100mm ,
which part would you cut out?

the top crossmembers have a 1" solid bar with a tapped hole, it inserts from one side with a 1" hole and a smaller hole on the other side for the bolt.


images -

[Accutron]

For that rack cut it at the bottom above the screw plate part on the post. Or get get new plates, but they may be difficult unless you go to a metal supplier.

Then get a mobile welder to come to your house and weld it back on the screw plate part. You can find mobile welders on CL or yellow pages, its not even that expensive really. They have a truck and do the work on site.

Thats what I would do. But think about it some more and get different opinions.

[Stasher1]

I'd take the 200mm out of the bottom of the uprights, where they attach to the base. It'll be easier to weld the plates back on to the bottom of the uprights than it would be to reconstruct the top portion(s) of the sides.

[Cleveland33]

There is no cross piece on the bottom?

I would ditch the bottom portions which appear to me to be right around the height you need to get rid of and bolt the sucker to the floor.

[KBKB]

From the photos you posted, it looks to me like it makes the most sense to remove a section from the very bottom, just above the brackets used to bolt the base to the uprights.

[owasM]

thanks!
will be removing it from the bottom,
makes the most sense, i can cut it up at home and take it into a welder to weld it back, (base plates are 1/2" thick!)

regarding the bottom cross memeber, it doesnt seem to need it, the rack doesnt even shake on unevan ground because the bent steel triangles on the front.

[Accutron]

How deep is that rack?

[owasM]

How deep is that rack?

only 15" from inside the posts , but its fine for me to squat in.

[KBKB]

only 15" , but its fine for me to squat in.

Yep. The bar path should be pretty much straight up and down anyway.

[KBKB]

...but its fine for me to squat in.

Prior to cutting it down, spend some time in it doing a few squats to figure out your ideal height for setting the safeties. You might end up wanting to remove a bit more of the upright than originally planned if it means that you'll be able to set the safeties in a better position. E.g. if cutting out only 200mm puts the safeties 25mm above where you'd like them to be, then it'd make more sense to cut out 225mm instead.

[owasM]

Prior to cutting it down, spend some time in it doing a few squats to figure out your ideal height for setting the safeties. You might end up wanting to remove a bit more of the upright than originally planned if it means that you'll be able to set the safeties in a better position. E.g. if cutting out only 200mm puts the safeties 25mm above where you'd like them to be, then it'd make more sense to cut out 225mm instead.

good idea,
the holes are 4" apart, so it will be difficult to be right for the 4 people using it , might just get more holes drilled through the squat/bench reigon when i take it in.

[sherman]

Maybe you could find a piece of square steel tubing or channel to telescope inside the uprights. Then cut above the bottom, cut out the amount of upright you don't need, telescope the steel tubing inside, put it back together, then weld the seam in the uprights.

I'm suggesting this in case you can't fully trust the new welds to to handle the stresses. Otherwise no need.

[ProtienandIron]

A agree with KB and Accutron, go for the bottom and then use your welding skillz to make good. Great idea also from kb about optimising the hieght of the holes to you.

[KeithTheSnake]

Looks like a good, sturdy, rack. It'll be worth the effort in getting the height of the holes right to support your j-hooks before cutting off the bolt plates at the bottom and re-welding a pair of plates on with a similar butt-joint. Should last a lifetime.

[owasM]

regards to the spacing, decided now to get a hole drilled between each predrilled hole, giving me 2" spacing so shouldnt be an issue. Should only cost $30 max.

going to have the guy i got to weld my log to do the cutting and welding, as everything has to be perfectly straight and i don't quite trust my cutoff saws clamp to do it.
not looking forward to having to carry each part up the workshop though.

got the rack at half the price of a home quality one here and its 4mm thick, so im happy lol.

[pumping4life]

To cut down that rack I'd say...

"Look rack, your old, your narrow, your scuffed and your rusty. You better get your act together or I'll take you to the scrap yard."

That should set it straight.

[owasM]

does a rack slide around on plywood when not bolted? my strut rack was bolted down so i didnt have the problem,
the rack at the local gym i've been to slides around quite abit when you re-rack but there floors barely have grip. Debating wether to get rid of the ply and put it directly on the stall mats

[twodog]

does a rack slide around on plywood when not bolted? my strut rack was bolted down so i didnt have the problem,
the rack at the local gym i've been to slides around quite abit when you re-rack but there floors barely have grip. Debating wether to get rid of the ply and put it directly on the stall mats

Since the rack isn't real heavy , or doesn't have plate holders for additional weight, it will probably move around a little. My old rack moved a little even on stall mats. but the movement was slight and only when racking the bar after heavy squats.

decided now to get a hole drilled between each predrilled hole, giving me 2" spacing so shouldnt be an issue. Should only cost $30 max.

If you put holes between each predrilled hole that will be 10 new sets of holes at 8 holes apiece (double sided), plan on more than $30 , but I still think it's a great idea as long as the price is decent. You probably won't need a set at to or the bottom, and maybe even a few more if you need to save some money.

Nice pickup on the rack BTW, it looks real sturdy, repped ! Good luck.

[owasM]

Since the rack isn't real heavy , or doesn't have plate holders for additional weight, it will probably move around a little. My old rack moved a little even on stall mats. but the movement was slight and only when racking the bar after heavy squats.

If you put holes between each predrilled hole that will be 10 new sets of holes at 8 holes apiece (double sided), plan on more than $30 , but I still think it's a great idea as long as the price is decent. You probably won't need a set at to or the bottom, and maybe even a few more if you need to save some money.

Nice pickup on the rack BTW, it looks real sturdy, repped ! Good luck.

getting the cuts, welds, and 6 extra holes a post done for the $30, didn't expect it to be that cheap lol.

[irongrandpa]

getting the cuts, welds, and 6 extra holes a post done for the $30, didn't expect it to be that cheap lol.

That's a really cheap price for that much work. The rack will slide on plywood, stall mats are best. Congrats on your purchase, it's a good looking rack.

[Accutron]

getting the cuts, welds, and 6 extra holes a post done for the $30, didn't expect it to be that cheap lol.

At that price its practice for the co-op student or something. Hope its okay.

[jtaliani]

getting the cuts, welds, and 6 extra holes a post done for the $30, didn't expect it to be that cheap lol.

As long as it's good quality work, that is a STEAL. Let us know how it comes out.

[owasM]

At that price its practice for the co-op student or something. Hope its okay.

nope no students, he does the work himself, looks about 40 odd ..
he did all the work except the cut outs on my log too for not much more than this, the welds and cuts are perfect.

[twodog]

getting the cuts, welds, and 6 extra holes a post done for the $30, didn't expect it to be that cheap lol.

Fantastic deal !

[dumb.bell]

Can't wait to see the finished product.

Are you adding an upright for plate storage?

[owasM]

Can't wait to see the finished product.

Are you adding an upright for plate storage?

i'm still trying to figure the best way to do so, i think may just have to use dumbells on a low hole to put the 20kg's, the others dont seem to get in the way too much.

[owasM]

got the rack back today, confusion in communication with the welder, he thought i meant only a hole between 2 and 8, when i meant a hole between each hole 2 to 8, nevermind, it turned out perfect for bench, luckly.

i wouldve happily paid $30 just for the cutting and welds.
can see the thickness alot better now, def 4mm, solid.

need jhooks now though, would half a solid threaded dumbell be strong enough for this with a welded cap on the end?