Vintage Iron Thread

[AttyGuy]

Did you miss the York thread? Looks like 80's York stuff. The seller is very proud of what he has. I don't think he is asking $650 for everything.

[dieselmike]

You also might want to avoid a wire brush if it is too coarse, as it will smooth down the knurling fairly quickly.

I don't agree with this with regard to knocking down knurling. Those wires brushes are made of fine stainless steel. A Barbell is a solid hunk of steel. Stainless steel vs Steel - Steel wins.

I am not talking about the tightly braided, twisted brushes that are made to really dig through layers of paint. I am talking about a simple wire brush that one uses on a drill or an angle grinder.

I have cleaned up numerous rusted barbells using a stainless wire brush on an angle grinder. They all came out beautiful will no ill effects to the knurl.

If one is concerned about the finish on the bar, that is another story. Aggressively going at it with a powered wire brush will take off the finish. But quite honestly when bars are that rusted you are best off taking it down to bare steel anyway.

[dieselmike]

Can some of the York experts on here tell me anything about this stuff? I realize the 1" stuff isn't very collectible but would like to know more about the dumbbells. I'm seriously considering picking this stuff up and then reselling the things I don't want. Ads a little confusing but if it 's $650 for everything is that a good deal? Thanks

https://buffalo.craigslist.org/for/6136548534.html

$650 is clearly for the dumbbells and rack only. Everything else has 'a la carte pricing.

[CliveWarren]

I don't agree with this with regard to knocking down knurling. Those wires brushes are made of fine stainless steel. A Barbell is a solid hunk of steel. Stainless steel vs Steel - Steel wins.

I am not talking about the tightly braided, twisted brushes that are made to really dig through layers of paint. I am talking about a simple wire brush that one uses on a drill or an angle grinder.

I have cleaned up numerous rusted barbells using a stainless wire brush on an angle grinder. They all came out beautiful will no ill effects to the knurl.

If one is concerned about the finish on the bar, that is another story. Aggressively going at it with a powered wire brush will take off the finish. But quite honestly when bars are that rusted you are best off taking it down to bare steel anyway.

Mike is right. I've always used a wire wheel on my bench grinder to cleanup rust from nuts, bolts, and tools. It's pretty gentle IMO.

[Nahanaha]

Is this the bar that was for sale in Germany? Saw it as well, but 1) too far and 2) afraid the bar was too far gone.
It seems that the knurling should be fine

1) Yes.
2) You may be right, if I cannot open up the sleeves.

The two 15kg Berg plates alone where well worth it. They weigh in at 15.00 and 15.01kg on my fairly accurate scale. Before rust removal that is, though.

[Nahanaha]

If one is concerned about the finish on the bar, that is another story. Aggressively going at it with a powered wire brush will take off the finish. But quite honestly when bars are that rusted you are best off taking it down to bare steel anyway.

That's what I thought. At this point it's better to clean it up. Patina will grow back anyway.

[Nahanaha]

Maybe you could get a 5 gallon (19 litre) pail and stand the barbell up in a corner with a sleeve immersed in a citric acid powder solution?

I believe this would turn the finish black, but maybe it would penetrate and free up the seized sleeves. I'll let others chime in.

Thanks, good idea. I believe I could build a temporary pool with wood and pool liner for the entire bar.

I'm not even sure though, if this would penetrate into the sleeves. At least on the shoulder side, there's absolutely no space between the two discs of each sleeve.

Any other thoughts about opening the sleeves? This seems to be the... well... make-or-break question about the bar. I'm somewhat hesitant to use force unless I understand the mechanism first.

[Cleveland33]

I don't agree with this with regard to knocking down knurling. Those wires brushes are made of fine stainless steel. A Barbell is a solid hunk of steel. Stainless steel vs Steel - Steel wins.

I am not talking about the tightly braided, twisted brushes that are made to really dig through layers of paint. I am talking about a simple wire brush that one uses on a drill or an angle grinder.

I have cleaned up numerous rusted barbells using a stainless wire brush on an angle grinder. They all came out beautiful will no ill effects to the knurl.

If one is concerned about the finish on the bar, that is another story. Aggressively going at it with a powered wire brush will take off the finish. But quite honestly when bars are that rusted you are best off taking it down to bare steel anyway.

Totally agree with this. And I even question knotted brushes as they are for finish removal, not stock removal.

I think Rip said once too, that if a bar's knurl was so delicate that a wire wheel would damage it, that's not a bar worth owning.

Not sure about chrome though

Mike is right. I've always used a wire wheel on my bench grinder to cleanup rust from nuts, bolts, and tools. It's pretty gentle IMO.

Northernmoris actually cleaned a few bars on a bench grinder - had a guy hold the far end of the bar while he fed the close end into the wheel. Did a helluva job.

[Cleveland33]

Thanks, good idea. I believe I could build a temporary pool with wood and pool liner for the entire bar.

I'm not even sure though, if this would penetrate into the sleeves. At least on the shoulder side, there's absolutely no space between the two discs of each sleeve.

Any other thoughts about opening the sleeves? This seems to be the... well... make-or-break question about the bar. I'm somewhat hesitant to use force unless I understand the mechanism first.

The first thing I would do is hit is with a penetrating catalyst like PB Blaster on the gaps between the sleeve and the inner collar and the sleeve and the donut. Spray over the top, give it a few minutes to creep in. Flip the bar and spray the other side, giving it a few minutes to creep. After that I would hit it with the wire wheel around the same area (careful cause that left over Blaster is gonna splatter and that stuffs no joke). I wouldn't be surprised if that alone frees the sleeves to rotate. And then you can reassess.


Edit to add: can you get more pics (close ups) of the holes a the end of the bar - both bar ends and if there are two holes, pics of each. And then more pics of the other bar end as well. My first guess is that it is a rounded out button head cap screw, but if no one was taking care of the bar, no reason it would be rounded out.

You may not be able to get the sleeves open - some bars are designed to not be opened. But I bet you can get those sleeves free if you try what I said above and that should be enough.

[rthawker]

Can some of the York experts on here tell me anything about this stuff? I realize the 1" stuff isn't very collectible but would like to know more about the dumbbells. I'm seriously considering picking this stuff up and then reselling the things I don't want. Ads a little confusing but if it 's $650 for everything is that a good deal? Thanks

https://buffalo.craigslist.org/for/6136548534.html

You're lucky I'm not in the market for equipment right now. That stuff would be a quick and easy grab for me. Probably only a 5-10min drive. That's the danger of posting a link instead of just some pics. Easy for anyone to poach form you. Good luck if you decide to go for it.

[Nahanaha]

Edit to add: can you get more pics (close ups) of the holes a the end of the bar - both bar ends and if there are two holes, pics of each. And then more pics of the other bar end as well. My first guess is that it is a rounded out button head cap screw, but if no one was taking care of the bar, no reason it would be rounded out.

I'll do.

There are two holes on opposing sides on each end of the bar. One of these (on each side) is actually threaded – actually on one of the sleeves there's a flat slotted screw in the threaded hole. I'm only assuming it's threaded obviously, because the screw doesn't move so far.

[matrix563]

[vhd16]

I'll do.

There are two holes on opposing sides on each end of the bar. One of these (on each side) is actually threaded – actually on one of the sleeves there's a flat slotted screw in the threaded hole. I'm only assuming it's threaded obviously, because the screw doesn't move so far.

If the holes threaded and it is flat slotted screw then like others said lot of PB Blaster or something similar and then if you have access to torch use torch and basically anneal them. I am not sure you would need to this based on how well a penetrating spray works. Once sleeves are little "loose", then you might be able to takeout the screw without annal it.

Plus please post the pics of the screws, both the sides of the sleeves and end caps.

[61PWCC]

If the holes threaded and it is flat slotted screw then like others said lot of PB Blaster or something similar and then if you have access to torch use torch and basically annal them. I am not sure you would need to this based on how well a penetrating spray works. Once sleeves are little "loose", then you might be able to takeout the screw without annal it.

Plus please post the pics of the screws, both the sides of the sleeves and end caps.

ANNEAL not ANNAL

[AttyGuy]

Nor ANAL.

[vhd16]

ANNEAL not ANNAL

������ Tx. Fixed the spelling. Let the jokes begin.

[Nahanaha]

Finally got to take some pictures over the weekend.

Also I have a can of PB Blaster now and will try that today. Might also try to torch it.

If the holes threaded and it is flat slotted screw then like others said lot of PB Blaster or something similar and then if you have access to torch use torch and basically anneal them. I am not sure you would need to this based on how well a penetrating spray works. Once sleeves are little "loose", then you might be able to takeout the screw without annal it.

Plus please post the pics of the screws, both the sides of the sleeves and end caps.

[vhd16]

Finally got to take some pictures over the weekend.

Also I have a can of PB Blaster now and will try that today. Might also try to torch it.

It looks like you should be able to take the screw out either with a regular flat tip or screw extractor.

I would soak it with PB Blaster for few days (Spray it every 12 hours or so) . I would spray it from the both ends of the hole. After couple/few days , you should be able to spin the sleeves by hand.

In my case, check the barbell thread for pics and posts, rust of was coming out of collars of the sleeves on to the shaft after PB Blaster was used.

I don't think there would be a need to anneal the screws. But nothing wrong little of bit of heat. At least it will loosen the screws little bit.

I wish my barbell had this type of screws not the roll pins.

[Cleveland33]

can you get a pick of both ends of the bar straight on? it's tough to tell from that angle on #2466

[Nahanaha]

can you get a pick of both ends of the bar straight on? it's tough to tell from that angle on #2466

Will do this evening. First try with PB Blaster had no effect.

[Nahanaha]

can you get a pick of both ends of the bar straight on? it's tough to tell from that angle on #2466

Like this?

[Cleveland33]

Yes, perfect.

That is the oddest looking end though...not what I was expecting to see

[Nahanaha]

Yes, perfect.

That is the oddest looking end though...not what I was expecting to see

On one side the end cap sits very tight while on the other there's a 1mm gap between the end cap and the sleeve. In that gap a not round spacer can be seen. That's the side where (I believe) a thread can be seen (IMG_2466.jpg‎)

PB Blaster doesn't do much so far. I have doubts though, if it even penetrates, because most of the grooves are very tight.

[matrix563]

[ffrink]

That's a great rack for a being of any dimension!!!

[matrix563]

traded a 95 rh for 2 50s, and got these 70 for a good deal the other day:

[fedewab2]

Originally posted this question in the York thread, but deleted that post now that I am aware of this thread.

Anyone have any info concerning these dual-marked 25 KG / 55 LB bumper plates with an “LL” overlapping circle logo? My research has yielded absolutely nothing. Thank you.

[ffrink]

Originally posted this question in the York thread, but deleted that post now that I am aware of this thread.

Anyone have any info concerning these dual-marked 25 KG / 55 LB bumper plates with an “LL” overlapping circle logo? My research has yielded absolutely nothing. Thank you.

I've been told those are Made in Taiwan plates.

[fedewab2]

I've been told those are Made in Taiwan plates.

Thank you for the reply. Did little more searching and still found absolutely nothing. So, maybe a bit unique but little value beyond being 110lbs of weight to put on a bar?

[AttyGuy]

Originally posted this question in the York thread, but deleted that post now that I am aware of this thread.

Anyone have any info concerning these dual-marked 25 KG / 55 LB bumper plates with an “LL” overlapping circle logo? My research has yielded absolutely nothing. Thank you.

They look nice. Clean them up, repaint them, and use them!

I've been told those are Made in Taiwan plates.

Did some old ladies stirring a boiling pot tell you this? I haven't been over there in a while, but I'm curious as to your sources, brother.