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    Exclamation Wiring Single 4 ohm DVC Alping Type-R Sub to a 2 channel amp (CAR AUDIO GURUS)(Pics)

    I currently have it the sub wired parallel and bridged to amp...which Im told is BAD because the Amp specs say 4 ohm when bridged mono. But i've been running this since I bought the car (came with sub/amp). Never noticed the sub turning off or any intense over heating. Amp is set at 110 LPF , 2 v, and 0 boost.





    Would this be appropriate? Some say the sub will not get exact frequencies from the LEFT and RIGHT simultaneously.




    So, should I do it the 2nd way? Or would that damage my sub? Also, whats this about running a RCA splitter to one of the either Left or RIGHT inputs to run the 2nd method? Does that Mean I need to remove the Left RCA wire from my Head unit and run 2 RIGHTS and combine those to the Right Input on amp only? Any drawbacks to that?

    Amp Specs
    Suitable speaker impedance
    2-8 Ohms (stereo)
    4-8 Ohms (When bridging)
    Max Outputs:
    400w x 2 @ (4 ohm)
    600wx 2 (2 ohm)
    1200w (BTL, at 4 ohm)
    Sony XM-SD22x



    Sub is SWR-1402 Alpine Type R 10" DVC 4 Ohm each
    Last edited by Dr_Decay; 04-30-2010 at 02:14 PM.
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    fitteen inch bis BintoPeans's Avatar
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    You could wire the coils in series and then connect it to the bridged terminals. The load would be 8ohms. Would be safer but less power to the sub.
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    is is the speaker a dual 4ohm voice coil, or is is dual 2ohm voice coils?




    hope your amp is 2ohm stable
    Last edited by mrawdtsi; 04-30-2010 at 02:12 PM.
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    Originally Posted by BintoPeans View Post
    You could wire the coils in series and then connect it to the bridged terminals. The load would be 8ohms. Would be safer but less power to the sub.
    How much less power are we talking here? Cuz the sub barely bangs how it is now. (1st diagram)

    Originally Posted by mrawdtsi View Post
    is is the speaker a dual 4ohm voice coil, or is is dual 2ohm voice coils?

    for optimal power, youll want to do diagram two.

    assuming that it is a dual 4ohm speaker, meaning the resistance is 4ohms on each coil, you will want to wire it such that the amp thinks its a single 4ohm coil.

    finding better pic... sec
    Speaker is DVC 4 ohms each. 4 ohm + 4 ohm. That picture you posted is a Mono amp. I have 2 channel. Ive been running it 2 ohm's bridged by having SUB parallel and its never blew up on me...lol
    Last edited by Dr_Decay; 04-30-2010 at 02:15 PM.
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    Originally Posted by Dr_Decay View Post
    How much less power are we talking here? Cuz the sub barely bangs how it is now. (1st diagram)



    Speaker is DVC 4 ohms each. 4 ohm + 4 ohm.
    disregard my previous response. i re-read what i wrote and it makes no sense.. lulz. pic above to illustrate what i meant.
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    My amp is 2 channel brah. Not Mono.
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    Originally Posted by Dr_Decay View Post
    My amp is 2 channel brah. Not Mono.
    is it stable at 2 ohms while bridged?

    btw, Alpine Type Rs are fantastic subs. i have 2 10s in my truck and 1 12" in my boat.
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    The specs (listed in OP) say its only stable @ 4 ohms bridged, But i've had it wired like the 1st diagram since the car came with this setup and its never blown up on me. So it must be stable @ 2 ohms right?.


    Bumps kinda low though. Is this cuz my settings or because my amp is just weak?
    Amp is set at 110 LPF , 2 v, and 0 boost.

    Last edited by Dr_Decay; 04-30-2010 at 02:36 PM.
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    Originally Posted by Dr_Decay View Post
    The specs (listed in OP) say its only stable @ 4 ohms bridged, But i've had it wired like the 1st diagram since the car came with this setup and its never blown up on me. So it must be stable @ 2 ohms right?.


    Bumps kinda low though. Is this cuz my settings or because my amp is just weak?
    Amp is set at 110 LPF , 2 v, and 0 boost.
    I would not suggest running a 2ohm load onto a 4ohm stable amp, itll get REALLY hot and could start a fire.

    i've got my 10s in my truck on a Kicker ZX750.1 amp. Speakers wired in parallel (both are dual 4ohm coils)

    So both speakers are coming into the mono amp at 4ohm total resistance...

    when i turn it up, its insanely loud, to the point that my teeth chatter. so i had to turn it WAY down. lol

    i would suggest investing in a mono amp, they're designed to drive subs and are better overall, imo.

    you can pick up one of these kicker amps on Ebay brand new for about $220.
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    Originally Posted by mrawdtsi View Post
    I would not suggest running a 2ohm load onto a 4ohm stable amp, itll get REALLY hot and could start a fire.

    i've got my 10s in my truck on a Kicker ZX750.1 amp. Speakers wired in parallel (both are dual 4ohm coils)

    So both speakers are coming into the mono amp at 4ohm total resistance...

    when i turn it up, its insanely loud, to the point that my teeth chatter. so i had to turn it WAY down. lol

    i would suggest investing in a mono amp, they're designed to drive subs and are better overall, imo.

    you can pick up one of these kicker amps on Ebay brand new for about $220.
    Appreciate the advice but Im not looking to spend money on this, but instead fine tune it for best performance.

    Did you ever use Low Bass boost? Users usually set the volts at 2v, right? And LPF at 110?
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    Originally Posted by Dr_Decay View Post
    How much less power are we talking here? Cuz the sub barely bangs how it is now. (1st diagram)
    I believe the power would be half what the amp is rated for at 4 ohms. It would be better if you had a single voice coil 4 ohm. The power of that amp should make that speaker thump even at 8 ohms. What kind of enclosure are you running?
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    Originally Posted by Dr_Decay View Post
    Appreciate the advice but Im not looking to spend money on this, but instead fine tune it for best performance.

    Did you ever use Low Bass boost? Users usually set the volts at 2v, right? And LPF at 110?
    understandable.

    i set the LPF at 110 and bass boost was in the middle.

    a lot of this depends on the box. The Type Rs are designed to use little airspace (sealed) but can use a lot more if vented.

    my truck box is ~ .85 cu/ft per speaker.. vented. but the box for the 12" Type R in my boat is 1.0 cu/ft Sealed. i think the vented box sounds better. personally.
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    Will try half way on Low boost

    Originally Posted by BintoPeans View Post
    I believe the power would be half what the amp is rated for at 4 ohms. It would be better if you had a single voice coil 4 ohm. The power of that amp should make that speaker thump even at 8 ohms. What kind of enclosure are you running?
    Im running a vented Alpine box. It also has some type of insulation filled inside.

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    Originally Posted by Dr_Decay View Post
    Will try half way on Low boost



    Im running a vented Alpine box. It also has some type of insulation filled inside.
    the "insulation" is to trick the speaker into thinking the box is larger than it is.
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    How do I know if its being distorted?

    the car bumps with the low boost half way; its louder, but it doesn't give a feeling that my throat/teeth are vibrating. It just feels like the sub is pushing air.

    Is there a specific sound heard when its distorted? I might try going 8 ohms in series, see how that sounds .
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    What do you think, should I try 8 ohm configuration?
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    Originally Posted by Dr_Decay View Post
    How do I know if its being distorted?

    the car bumps with the low boost half way; its louder, but it doesn't give a feeling that my throat/teeth are vibrating. It just feels like the sub is pushing air.

    Is there a specific sound heard when its distorted? I might try going 8 ohms in series, see how that sounds .
    x2, wondering what distortion sounds like..
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    This is distortion i believe.



    glad mine dont sound like that.
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    i tried 8 ohm by running sub in series and it was disapointing. I reverted back to parallel. pulling 2 ohm and its so much better.

    Ran music at highest level I could stand for 10 min, then put my hand on AMP and it was barely even warm.
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    bump. ^^^

    Is it possible this amp can handle the 2 ohm bridged load?
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