Homemade Deadlifting Platform

[rlundregan]

This might be a stupid question, but I'm sure there is a good reason. I've always done deadlifts while standing directly on stall mats, even on 400+ maximal lifts, and it's never been problematic. So, what is the point of having the wood center piece?

'Cuz it shore luks purty!

Honestly, I'm not aware that it serves any functional purpose. I'm pretty sure that I recall Rippetoe suggesting a couple of layers of plywood with a layer of stall mat, no center wood piece needed. It does look nice and "professional" when guys take the time to stain/urethane the center wooden piece.

[matrix563]

The absolute easiest way to cut stall mats is with an electric jigsaw and a straight edge. Fast clean and easy. Good luck.

good to know

[Paulie_G]

'Cuz it shore luks purty!

Honestly, I'm not aware that it serves any functional purpose. I'm pretty sure that I recall Rippetoe suggesting a couple of layers of plywood with a layer of stall mat, no center wood piece needed. It does look nice and "professional" when guys take the time to stain/urethane the center wooden piece.

This was my suspicion. I really don't care about it being purty. LOL. I just want it to be functiona., and it would seem that having the additional surface area would be a good thing, since it seems that a bar will often fall close to the the middle on some drops.

[rlundregan]

This was my suspicion. I really don't care about it being purty. LOL. I just want it to be functiona., and it would seem that having the additional surface area would be a good thing, since it seems that a bar will often fall close to the the middle on some drops.

I think a lot of guys who aren't total gear whores opt for just the stall mat on top!

However, you might take a look at Twodog's avatar. I believe that he made his own platform, and he created the York logo in the center wood piece. If that isn't inspiring, I don't know what is!

[-aesop-]

Yep! You can do whatever you like with a wood piece. We've just redone one of ours at the gym I go to, and the guys are thinking about painting the gym's logo onto the wood, before sealing the surface. If you're doing any kind of weightlifting movements, a wooden surface may feel a little "faster" to you.

[rlundregan]

Yep! You can do whatever you like with a wood piece. We've just redone one of ours at the gym I go to, and the guys are thinking about painting the gym's logo onto the wood, before sealing the surface. If you're doing any kind of weightlifting movements, a wooden surface may feel a little "faster" to you.

What do you mean by "faster"? I'm just curious, having never done any Oly movements....

[irongrandpa]

This was my suspicion. I really don't care about it being purty. LOL. I just want it to be functiona., and it would seem that having the additional surface area would be a good thing, since it seems that a bar will often fall close to the the middle on some drops.

This is the case if you do DL with a non rackable hex bar as the weight plates are quite a bit closer together.

[BuckWyld]

This might be a stupid question, but I'm sure there is a good reason. I've always done deadlifts while standing directly on stall mats, even on 400+ maximal lifts, and it's never been problematic. So, what is the point of having the wood center piece?

I think that the wood is primarily for lifts like the split jerk where you want to be able to move your feet during the lift without sticking. Even with just the deadlift the stall mat will compress a little bit, probably not enough to make a big difference, just not ideal.

[-aesop-]

What do you mean by "faster"? I'm just curious, having never done any Oly movements....

Basically, it's for force transference. It doesn't compress or have the bounce that, say, stall mats would. Of course, when wood used on the top layer of a platform should be a nice hardwood for that sort of action - maple, birch, oak..... If you're just deadlifting, you likely won't notice. If you're a beginner at weightlifting, you likely won't notice either. I do enjoy the feel of wood, though.

[owasM]

I do enjoy the feel of wood, though.

... Thats what she said.

[rlundregan]

Basically, it's for force transference. It doesn't compress or have the bounce that, say, stall mats would. Of course, when wood used on the top layer of a platform should be a nice hardwood for that sort of action - maple, birch, oak..... If you're just deadlifting, you likely won't notice. If you're a beginner at weightlifting, you likely won't notice either. I do enjoy the feel of wood, though.

THanks for the information--repped!

[twodog]

I think that the wood is primarily for lifts like the split jerk where you want to be able to move your feet during the lift without sticking.

Bingo! the wood insert is because platforms were not originally designed for deadlifts, but for oly lifts. Where you need to be able to slide a little on the surface. It's also a nice canvas for some artwork, my avatar is a closeup picture of my platform.

[rlundregan]

I think that the wood is primarily for lifts like the split jerk where you want to be able to move your feet during the lift without sticking. Even with just the deadlift the stall mat will compress a little bit, probably not enough to make a big difference, just not ideal.

Every time I think I know something, I find that I don't know anything!

Repped!

[817boy]

Bingo! the wood insert is because platforms were not originally designed for deadlifts, but for oly lifts. Where you need to be able to slide a little on the surface. It's also a nice canvas for some artwork, my avatar is a closeup picture of my platform.

Nice setup, i would like to get a nice platform but i dont have the room for one.

[twodog]

Nice setup, i would like to get a nice platform but i dont have the room for one.

Thanks, that was a 9'x10' room that I blew the wall out on. It's now a 9' x 12' platform w/ 2 layers of 5/8" ply on the bottom and a layer of stall mats and 3/4" oak ply on top. The ceiling is only 8'3", but I'm only 5'8'' so I can still go overhead.

[LimitStrength]

Thanks, that was a 9'x10' room that I blew the wall out on. It's now a 9' x 12' platform w/ 2 layers of 5/8" ply on the bottom and a layer of stall mats and 3/4" oak ply on top. The ceiling is only 8'3", but I'm only 5'8'' so I can still go overhead.

Also plywood sheets are 4x8 while average horse stall mat is 4x6, you would need 2 mats to cover the whole surface, which means you would have a seem somewhere on the platform which could lead to tripping.

By having the wood centerpiece you only need 1 mat and everything is still level. As others have said the wood will compress the least, leading to a more stable area to lift on.

[twodog]

which means you would have a seem somewhere on the platform which could lead to tripping.

My floor has alot of seams since it is 9'x12' and I was worried about tripping on them, but it hasn't happened. The oak ply is 3/4" (not 23/32") and mates up perfectly with the mats and they mate up well to each other. The mats did move after being put down, so I put a few screws through the mats into the ply below and that has solved all of the problems.

[jgood602]

nice design we made one that supports use of bands, my next one will have the wood insert in it here is a pic

[817boy]

nice design we made one that supports use of bands, my next one will have the wood insert in it here is a pic

that looks nice, you might not want wood in the middle if you are using chains. Most people put chains in the middle of the bar (when pulling sumo) and the chains might scratch the wood.

You will have to put a small stall mat down where the chains will land

[skrebs01]

nice design we made one that supports use of bands, my next one will have the wood insert in it here is a pic

That is a good design. Can you give any more specific on how you did it.

[jgood602]

That is a good design. Can you give any more specific on how you did it.

Its welded frame 2x2 11ga square tubing we placed 11ga 5in straps in the middle, inner is 2 sheets 4x8 plywood and a 4x8 3/4inrubber mat. Then welded the 18in pipe along the edge to hold the bands. really isn't very heavy once the center wood and stuff is removed. So far haven't had any problems with it. stole the idea from Rogue they want like 400 or 500 for theirs.

should have done maybe a sheet of 3/4 and maybe 1/2 with the 3/4 mat so there wasn't a 1/4 lip on it but it doesn't seem to hurt anything.

[jgood602]

Pic of it loaded

[817boy]

[jgood602]

Thanks 817

soon ill be able to upload pics

[817boy]

Thanks 817

soon ill be able to upload pics

No problem, just remember its

[img] post the link [/img] but make sure there are no spaces at all

[xephonics]

Anyone else here have experience using the multi-purpose liquid nails on wood+rubber? Or have you found any other good glues?

I ask this as I am about to make a similar setup, and want to know what would be the best blue to use (hoping I dont have to drop the $50 a quart on the 3m Fastbond 30-NF)

[daniel327]

Anyone else here have experience using the multi-purpose liquid nails on wood+rubber? Or have you found any other good glues?

I ask this as I am about to make a similar setup, and want to know what would be the best blue to use (hoping I dont have to drop the $50 a quart on the 3m Fastbond 30-NF)

I'm not sure of the cost in the US, but Sikaflex will do the job: http://usa.sika.com/en/solutions_pro...a024sa017.html

[xephonics]

nice, thanks

[jgood602]

we just used liquid nail didn't glue the mat just the wood the fram has enough lip to keep it from moving.

[xephonics]

ahhh, gotchas. Mine would nto work like that as I do not plan to have anything around the rubber.

I ended up ordering ~3.4lbs of liquid nails CB-10 (made for bonding rubber tread to stairs). Now, just to wait for it to come in lol.