I am going to build a power rack. I work at a welding and fabrication shop so I know I won't have any problems with the construction. I will also be able to get the steel and paint for free. So I am sure it will be worth my time. I just have a few questions and concerns as I have not even used one before.
1- My first question is about the dimensions. I plan on making the "hole" 2'6" ID deep and 4'6" OD wide. Is this about right?
2- How tall should I make it? Tall enough to do standing presses right?
3- Do I need to make it bolt together in a few spots? How else am I going to get it in my house and down stairs?
4- How far do I space my safety rail holes? Do I need to find out exactly were I would like to put the safety rail for benching? Or will an inch or two not make a difference?
5- Anything else I should think about?
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Thread: Building a power rack
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10-07-2009, 11:11 AM #1
Building a power rack
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10-07-2009, 11:24 AM #2
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10-07-2009, 11:39 AM #3
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10-07-2009, 12:11 PM #4
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10-07-2009, 12:14 PM #5
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10-07-2009, 12:15 PM #6
- Join Date: Dec 2007
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Have you looked up the dimensions on some of the standard racks? That would be a good starting place. I have a homemade rack (not made by me) and the guy made it for powerlifting. IT IS HUGE! Dont get me wrong, he didnt screw it up, but it is bigger than just about any rack I have seen in person (4x4 posts, very deep, etc).
He took a lot of time to make it the way he wanted, but he also had been powerlifting for about 15 years-THUS, he knew what he wanted and didnt want and also probably had the best dimensions in mind.[]---[] Equipment Crew Member #14
www.ShankAZombie.com
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10-07-2009, 12:19 PM #7
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1. i would make it somewhere between 48 and 52" wide. the depth is up to you, just be sure to use strong material for the spotters.
2. i would make it as tall as possible. if it's going in the basement, make sure that you leave yourself room to stand it up. also make sure that you leave room for pullups. *and make sure that you put a pullup bar on there*
3. i'd suggest welding the sides together, and make 3 crossbars- 1 on the bottom in the back, 1 on the top in the back, and one pullup bar on top in the front.
4. personal preference, really. the more holes the better, unless you figure out exactly where you need the holders/safeties to be for every exercise you will ever do in the rack.
5. pullup bar. be sure to drill the holes straight and the same height all around. be sure to use strong material for the safeties. what are you going to do for bar holders. be sure to leave enough room on the width that you can rack your olympic bar with at least an inch on each side (so you don't have to have it perfectly centered put it back on the holders."If there must be trouble let it be in my day, that my child may have peace." -Thomas Paine
[]---[]Equipment Crew Member No.3[]---[]
()---() York Barbell Club #2 ()---()
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10-07-2009, 12:20 PM #8
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10-07-2009, 12:21 PM #9
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10-07-2009, 12:40 PM #10
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10-07-2009, 01:21 PM #11
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Comment on question no. 4 The hole spacing will be determined by material strength and needed hole diameter. As close as possible will be best for use. Unfortunately this isn't a particularly mutable number.
A comment about depth, deeper is nicer but requires thicker safeties and therefore wider hole spacing. It is actually amazing how narrow some of the older racks are, I feel cramped in a 16" deep rack but I've never actually touch the sides when lifting in one that size.[]---[] Equipment Crew Member No. 11
"As iron sharpens iron so one man sharpens another" Proverbs 27:17
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10-07-2009, 01:29 PM #12
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10-07-2009, 01:30 PM #13
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10-07-2009, 01:34 PM #14
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10-07-2009, 01:35 PM #15
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10-07-2009, 01:48 PM #16
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Use the strongest rod you can for the safety, it's the part that'll determine how much weight you can drop on it.
The 11-12 gauge racks with 1" safeties I've seen don't use tighter than 2" 'hole spacing', which is 3" on centre (Powertec PPR is a good example).
If you use the 3/4" you can get away with slightly tighter spacing, but the strength of the rod won't be as great.
You could use 3/4" and slide it through a larger diameter tube. This is the style elite FTS uses on their racks which are top of the line. You can just see it here;
The thin rod gives tight hole spacing, and the tube it's slid through gives it great strength.[]---[] Equipment Crew Member No. 22
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10-07-2009, 01:48 PM #17
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10-07-2009, 01:52 PM #18
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I don't know where you live, but I would go to a shop that sells racks and see which one I liked or felt comfortable inside. Then I would measure the whole thing and make it to those dimensions. That way you get what you want and you know it will fit you OK.
[]---[] Equipment Crew Member No.19
Proud Owner of an Irish Tan
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10-07-2009, 02:29 PM #19
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10-10-2009, 12:10 PM #20
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10-10-2009, 01:52 PM #21
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Nice extremest,best I got is to lay 2 bars across the safties,looks like its time to pull the welder out.Oh and jesse,think about height,if you can make it higher,you can do standing militaries or push presses in the rack,unless of course you do extended safties.just a thought GL
Last edited by Keeptryin; 10-10-2009 at 01:56 PM.
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10-11-2009, 04:14 AM #22
Of holes 'n' things...
Centre to centre holes should be no closer together than 2.5 x D(hole diameter) e.g. 20dia holes should be a min of 50mm apart.
Holes close to rolled/sawn edges should be no closer than 1.25 x D which increases to 1.4 when it's a gas cut edge.http://homemadegymstuff.blogspot.com/
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