**OFFICIAL** -Misc Car Crew- 1st Pass

[1987GN]

"It's time to explore launch strategies that use the blow off valve to help decrease the time to accelerate turbine shaft speed pre-launch. This is in preparation for putting together a pro light launch strategy. This should be very interesting. I've already got some ideas in my head on ways to plumb the system without having to add a bunch to the existing boost controller and spool valve CO2 plumbing. Teeing into the launch control pressure setting for the wastegate control.

The first thing to do will be to examine the Godzilla BOV for loose sealing that would waste CO2 during the pressurization of the lower section of the valve diaphragm. When I briefly played with CO2 controlling of the BOV months back, I got the impression that there was quite a bit of CO2 leakage around the valve shaft. If that truly is the case, I'll need to better the seal design, if there is even a seal there to begin with.
Once that is adequately sealed so that CO2 is not wasted. It will be fun slowly working up on the tuneup that will provide a higher turbine shaft speed by the time the transbrake is ready to be released, along with the fact that there will be less stress on the engine while staged and waiting for the lights to come down.

If anyone ever wondered how a BOV could be used to better spool the turbo in preparation for the launch, this should be an interesting thread for you."

"First, let's explain the advantages of BOV control for the launch.
The BOV is like a wastegate valve, but on the cold side. When opened, it releases boost pressure from the intake side.

How this launch strategy works is, when you are staging the car, or when the car is already staged and you're attempting to build boost, turbine shaft speed can increase quicker with the lack of boost pressure working against the compressor wheel. You have the exhaust side working to increase turbine speed and without building resistance in the form of increasing MAP on the compressor side, the turbine shaft speed can increase quicker than if the turbine had to deal with an increasing resistance from the compressor side working against it.
By the time you are ready for the boost to hit the engine, the turbine shaft speed is at a higher level and when the BOV shuts closed, a sudden increase to a higher than otherwise obtainable boost pressure is realized.
Another thing to realize is that while the car is staged and turbine speed is increasing, boost pressure is not working on the engine that would make it work harder and push on the torque converter harder, increasing thermal loading on both. In my case having a BOV control strategy will be a good way to control the launch rpm level. With the lack of boost, or with the boost level controlled to a lower level, with the benefit of a relatively higher turbine shaft speed before the launch, the engine rpm and TC stall will not be pushed to unreasonable levels. Less chance of getting burned down at the starting line."

yes, your head just exploded.

[Kohl]

What are the plans?

Plans are to buy a cheap Toyota Corolla Ke30 and have it look something like the one I posted above.

Eventually rip out the engine and put a SR20DET in there instead when I can find one preferably from a crashed Silvia so I can get all sorts of parts.

Then a paint job.... i'm thinking steel blue then do up the interior of course this is what I would do in an ideal world where I was a baller 10k/day CEO

The other option is just buy an already complete performance car there's a nick stock evo 7 in town they want 18k - 22k for it which is reasonable I think for a NZ new car that's been serviced regularly and the owner isn't some retard ricer racer the owner is actually a female the wife of a mechanic across the road from me at work I see this car EVERY day like it's taunting me

[Ascendent]

"It's time to explore launch strategies that use the blow off valve to help decrease the time to accelerate turbine shaft speed pre-launch. This is in preparation for putting together a pro light launch strategy. This should be very interesting. I've already got some ideas in my head on ways to plumb the system without having to add a bunch to the existing boost controller and spool valve CO2 plumbing. Teeing into the launch control pressure setting for the wastegate control.

The first thing to do will be to examine the Godzilla BOV for loose sealing that would waste CO2 during the pressurization of the lower section of the valve diaphragm. When I briefly played with CO2 controlling of the BOV months back, I got the impression that there was quite a bit of CO2 leakage around the valve shaft. If that truly is the case, I'll need to better the seal design, if there is even a seal there to begin with.
Once that is adequately sealed so that CO2 is not wasted. It will be fun slowly working up on the tuneup that will provide a higher turbine shaft speed by the time the transbrake is ready to be released, along with the fact that there will be less stress on the engine while staged and waiting for the lights to come down.

If anyone ever wondered how a BOV could be used to better spool the turbo in preparation for the launch, this should be an interesting thread for you."

"First, let's explain the advantages of BOV control for the launch.
The BOV is like a wastegate valve, but on the cold side. When opened, it releases boost pressure from the intake side.

How this launch strategy works is, when you are staging the car, or when the car is already staged and you're attempting to build boost, turbine shaft speed can increase quicker with the lack of boost pressure working against the compressor wheel. You have the exhaust side working to increase turbine speed and without building resistance in the form of increasing MAP on the compressor side, the turbine shaft speed can increase quicker than if the turbine had to deal with an increasing resistance from the compressor side working against it.
By the time you are ready for the boost to hit the engine, the turbine shaft speed is at a higher level and when the BOV shuts closed, a sudden increase to a higher than otherwise obtainable boost pressure is realized.
Another thing to realize is that while the car is staged and turbine speed is increasing, boost pressure is not working on the engine that would make it work harder and push on the torque converter harder, increasing thermal loading on both. In my case having a BOV control strategy will be a good way to control the launch rpm level. With the lack of boost, or with the boost level controlled to a lower level, with the benefit of a relatively higher turbine shaft speed before the launch, the engine rpm and TC stall will not be pushed to unreasonable levels. Less chance of getting burned down at the starting line."

yes, your head just exploded.

Ok. With the excess pressure not being released from the BOV, would that not cause some small amount of compressor surge? In theory, this is essentially pressurizing the charge piping to a negligible bost drop if I've read correctly.

So uopn launch, all the now pressurized air crams into the engine bay after being forced into the intake piping from the turbo back. It seems like it would be hard on the impeller/compressor wheels. May do some research on this, but I see this as groundbreaking if you have the money to rebuild turbo CHRAs often.

Matt - Good to see the car's running well-ish. Go built tranny or go home.

DP -I feel your pain. I've been driving around my GF's stock 2000 Civic EX. So I left driving a 400+hp Civic, and I come back to this. Just like mine...except red, missing my suspension, Recaros, 5-speed transmission and about 300hp.

Finally got to see/hold my new SpoolinPerformance topmount. It's a serious piece of work. Heavy as hell too.

[scgmilan]

1987 I'm sure said it earlier in this thread, but how much power does your car make and what did it run?

[1987GN]

1987 I'm sure said it earlier in this thread, but how much power does your car make and what did it run?

I haven't dyno'd it, but it ran 12.18@110 with the old combo. New combo should yield very low 11s.

Powerwise, a dyno of the same turbo/heads produced 525rwhp 650rwtq.

I don't know what I am going to get, but I know there is going to be a retarded amount of torque in this car. I will be utterly shocked if I don't hit 600rwtq.

Ok. With the excess pressure not being released from the BOV, would that not cause some small amount of compressor surge? In theory, this is essentially pressurizing the charge piping to a negligible bost drop if I've read correctly.

So uopn launch, all the now pressurized air crams into the engine bay after being forced into the intake piping from the turbo back. It seems like it would be hard on the impeller/compressor wheels. May do some research on this, but I see this as groundbreaking if you have the money to rebuild turbo CHRAs often.

Matt - Good to see the car's running well-ish. Go built tranny or go home.

DP -I feel your pain. I've been driving around my GF's stock 2000 Civic EX. So I left driving a 400+hp Civic, and I come back to this. Just like mine...except red, missing my suspension, Recaros, 5-speed transmission and about 300hp.

Finally got to see/hold my new SpoolinPerformance topmount. It's a serious piece of work. Heavy as hell too.

Apparently the outlaw guys have been doing this for some time now.

My understanding is that at the time the BOV closes, the turbo has already produced some amount of boost, so its already under pressure (but comparitvely if there were no BOV, it is spinning at a much higher rpm because the bov is bleeding boost) and once the bov is closed, the turbo builds boost that much faster because it is spinning at such an increased rate, relative to what it would be spinning at, at the same boost, had there been no reduction in rotational drag.

Even if there was no boost made before the bov shuts, there would be no compressor surge because you are not stopping air coming to the compressor, and there is nothing going past the BOV, so there is no air to really surge with. Added to that, these CHRAs are large shaft, and can take a mild surge (hell look at turbo buicks...no one runs a BOV and we use 66-80mm turbos regularly) from the bov closing.

My take is this:
1.open bov to reduce compressors rotational drag and allow turbine to spin much faster-easier
2.stage the car, pull transbrake
3.close BOV and now the turbine is spinning very fast and boost can come on much quicker because the turbo is already spinning that fast

its just like bleeding air from the WG. If a turbo makes 10psi @ 55k rpm, and you bleed off all the boost with the BOV @55k rpm, then when you close the BOV and the turbo is still @55k rpm, it will immediately (provided a small time it takes for the air to catch up) spool 10psi because it already rotating at the speed required for said boost setting.

[Ascendent]

Apparently the outlaw guys have been doing this for some time now.

My understanding is that at the time the BOV closes, the turbo has already produced some amount of boost, so its already under pressure (but comparitvely if there were no BOV, it is spinning at a much higher rpm because the bov is bleeding boost) and once the bov is closed, the turbo builds boost that much faster because it is spinning at such an increased rate, relative to what it would be spinning at, at the same boost, had there been no reduction in rotational drag.

Even if there was no boost made before the bov shuts, there would be no compressor surge because you are not stopping air coming to the compressor, and there is nothing going past the BOV, so there is no air to really surge with. Added to that, these CHRAs are large shaft, and can take a mild surge (hell look at turbo buicks...no one runs a BOV and we use 66-80mm turbos regularly) from the bov closing.

My take is this:
1.open bov to reduce compressors rotational drag and allow turbine to spin much faster-easier
2.stage the car, pull transbrake
3.close BOV and now the turbine is spinning very fast and boost can come on much quicker because the turbo is already spinning that fast

its just like bleeding air from the WG. If a turbo makes 10psi @ 55k rpm, and you bleed off all the boost with the BOV @55k rpm, then when you close the BOV and the turbo is still @55k rpm, it will immediately (provided a small time it takes for the air to catch up) spool 10psi because it already rotating at the speed required for said boost setting.

Well. You've caused me to have to go get my books off the shelf. I'll be back shortly.

[1987GN]

Well. You've caused me to have to go get my books off the shelf. I'll be back shortly.

don't you love it when this happens

This is what he is thinking:

"[Thinking out loud]
How would a pro light launch routine go?
I would pre-stage. Bring the rpm up as high as the brakes will allow me to get away with. Roll into stage, then set the transbrake and go WOT.
I would need to have the nitrous activate with the setting of the transbrake and going WOT.
The BOV would also open getting its signal from the wastegate control pressure line (teed into) via the 3-way valve. The 3-way valve would be activated to allow flow from the wastegate line to the BOV when the transbrake button is pressed. When the transbrake button is released, the 3-way valve will switch to flow from the intake plenum to the BOV. That way the BOV can act as it normally would for the rest of the run.
The BOV should only be allowed to open enough to maintain a certain rpm and launch boost level. Launch rpm and boost level could be finely tuned by how the BOV is set, adjuster screw and control pressure wise.
A turbine speed sensor might become useful for the tuning and monitoring of this launch routine.
The nitrous system would need to time out at some point, or leave it on until the release of the transbrake? Or, leave it on threw the first part of the launch and shut it down at 176 kPa. That would depend on how controllable the rpm and boost level becomes at the target launch values. The AB level could be adjusted to help with this, maybe.
A problem is, I've found a good launch boost level that is right in the middle of my aux fueling activation transition point. Not really a point. It's more of a MAP range. How to make that work. Move the transition range higher? That would be the best way to handle it, if I have enough range left in the VE table to allow it."

[snakebite52]

well i blew my clutch on the evo last friday. exedy twin disc is going in plus tune and intake. hopefully i will be at 300 wheel hp. i cant wait to get her back today!

[BoostBrah]

well i blew my clutch on the evo last friday. exedy twin disc is going in plus tune and intake. hopefully i will be at 300 wheel hp. i cant wait to get her back today!

Twin disk @ 300hp?! Why? Can the factory input shafts handle the engagement of a twin disk? Our cars snap stock input shafts like twigs with those.... at 300hp I would just get a mild upgraded clutch, a twin is OVERKILL for your setup and will cost ya ALOT more then a regular one.

[Ejjw18]

I sold my 2006 GTO brahs. I bought a 2010 Roush 427R. I ****ing love it. Smaller pulley and a tune in the spring time.

in b4 spoiled rich kid
in b4 your parents bought it for you
in b4 you shouldn't have bought a ****stang

I pay for it. I'm working a lot more now and can afford the car.

only pic I have for now on my ****ty cell camera. Hopefully I'll be meeting up with some of my buddys soon who are photographers. I just bought it last saturday.

[insomniac23]

deeaammm^

nice whip brah, hows she feel compared to the GTO?

[Ejjw18]

deeaammm^

nice whip brah, hows she feel compared to the GTO?

oh man, I thought the GTO was fast, that car isn't **** compared to the stang haha. I mean don't get me wrong, I know theres plenty of cars that will smoke the Roush, but it's still pretty damn fast. Next spring im gonna throw a smaller pulley on and do a tune.

[ct9a evo]

dude, I blew my clutch on the evo last friday also. This piece of **** Spec Super Twin has blown out on my 3x already this year and everytime, they say it was a manafactuer defect and give me a new one. The labor and downtime on this is killing me.

[ct9a evo]

Twin disk @ 300hp?! Why? Can the factory input shafts handle the engagement of a twin disk? Our cars snap stock input shafts like twigs with those.... at 300hp I would just get a mild upgraded clutch, a twin is OVERKILL for your setup and will cost ya ALOT more then a regular one.

A twin disc is very popular on the evo, since most of the single disc clutches are very harsh or weak. A twin disc actually provides smoother driving and softer pedal compared to a upgraded single. However, you get alot of disc chatter. Its not uncommon for stock evo's to run the twin disc.

[MiscDoc]

A twin disc is very popular on the evo, since most of the single disc clutches are very harsh or weak. A twin disc actually provides smoother driving and softer pedal compared to a upgraded single. However, you get alot of disc chatter. Its not uncommon for stock evo's to run the twin disc.

One of my friends in Dallas has been running 375awhp through his stock clutch for 100k miles now. There's a thread on EvoM about stock clutch life, and he blew the guy with 60k on his stocker out of the water.

I don't understand the need for a dual clutch when the stock is totally sufficient, and especially, driveable. His car is smooth like buttah.

I actually posted a vid where he's camera car a few pages back.

[DriftParty]

I sold my 2006 GTO brahs. I bought a 2010 Roush 427R. I ****ing love it. Smaller pulley and a tune in the spring time.

in b4 spoiled rich kid
in b4 your parents bought it for you
in b4 you shouldn't have bought a ****stang]

You wont get any of that nonsense in this thread unless it's some dbag dropping by to give us his 2cents.

Nice car brah

[Ejjw18]

You wont get any of that nonsense in this thread unless it's some dbag dropping by to give us his 2cents.

Nice car brah

Ok good. and thanks.

It's such a bitch to keep clean though. I've wiped it down with a microfiber towel 2 times a day since I got it last saturday haha.

[BoostBrah]

I sold my 2006 GTO brahs. I bought a 2010 Roush 427R. I ****ing love it. Smaller pulley and a tune in the spring time.

in b4 spoiled rich kid
in b4 your parents bought it for you
in b4 you shouldn't have bought a ****stang

I pay for it. I'm working a lot more now and can afford the car.

only pic I have for now on my ****ty cell camera. Hopefully I'll be meeting up with some of my buddys soon who are photographers. I just bought it last saturday.

OH **** SON! Congrats! Looks sick!!! Bet it drives nice!!

A twin disc is very popular on the evo, since most of the single disc clutches are very harsh or weak. A twin disc actually provides smoother driving and softer pedal compared to a upgraded single. However, you get alot of disc chatter. Its not uncommon for stock evo's to run the twin disc.

But why..... Thats the huge question... Why run a twin if its not needed... Is it for bragging rights so you can say you have one? If I could run a stock clutch now, hell yea I would.

You wont get any of that nonsense in this thread unless it's some dbag dropping by to give us his 2cents.

Nice car brah

This. Only time we get negative shiet in here is from outside miscers who are very ignorant and or idiotic.

[Ejjw18]

OH **** SON! Congrats! Looks sick!!! Bet it drives nice!!

Thanks man. Yeah it drives great. It has the roush racing suspenion and brake kit so it handles really well. I'm still getting use to all the power.

[1987GN]

I sold my 2006 GTO brahs. I bought a 2010 Roush 427R. I ****ing love it. Smaller pulley and a tune in the spring time.

in b4 spoiled rich kid
in b4 your parents bought it for you
in b4 you shouldn't have bought a ****stang

I pay for it. I'm working a lot more now and can afford the car.

only pic I have for now on my ****ty cell camera. Hopefully I'll be meeting up with some of my buddys soon who are photographers. I just bought it last saturday.

WHAT A SPOILED RICH KID WHOS PARENTS BOUGHT IT FOR HIM AND SHOULD NOT HAVE BOUGHT A STANG!!??ELEVEN!




jk nice ride mang. Looks sick! What is the hp/tq on those things?

[Ejjw18]

WHAT A SPOILED RICH KID WHOS PARENTS BOUGHT IT FOR HIM AND SHOULD NOT HAVE BOUGHT A STANG!!??ELEVEN!




jk nice ride mang. Looks sick! What is the hp/tq on those things?

435/400

Everything I've read though says that the 2010s and 2011s are underrated. Like the 2011 5.0 GT is rated at 412hp but ive seen dynos of STOCK 5.0s putting 435 to the ground. So I wouldn't be surprised if my Roush is putting around 415-420 at the ground. Next spring I wanna get around 500rwhp and I'll be good.

[1987GN]

435/400

Everything I've read though says that the 2010s and 2011s are underrated. Like the 2011 5.0 GT is rated at 412hp but ive seen dynos of STOCK 5.0s putting 435 to the ground. So I wouldn't be surprised if my Roush is putting around 415-420 at the ground. Next spring I wanna get around 500rwhp and I'll be good.

super badass :coolface

Is it a 5.0L with a blower? Or the old 4.6?

How are the internals/trans/rear on those things?

435/400 is niceeee

[snakebite52]

Stock evo clutches suck ass. I launch my car and have big turbo plans. A stage 2 would have been a waste

Cars on the dyno right now brahs. Will report back with numbers. I had to add on a forge wastegate actuator and electronic boost controller because I was spiking at 30 psi.

[Ejjw18]

super badass :coolface

Is it a 5.0L with a blower? Or the old 4.6?

How are the internals/trans/rear on those things?

435/400 is niceeee

No the 2011s have the 5.0s. This is just a 4.6 with a supercharger.

everything feels good so far. The trans is nice. Im suprised how soft the clutch is. The rear is suppose to be good. I read somewhere that it can handle like 525-550rwhp on the stock rear.

[BoostBrah]

Stock evo clutches suck ass. I launch my car and have big turbo plans. A stage 2 would have been a waste

Cars on the dyno right now brahs. Will report back with numbers. I had to add on a forge wastegate actuator and electronic boost controller because I was spiking at 30 psi.

Understandable, but a sprung ceramic 6 puck will cost ya $600-800 and hold 600+hp...

A twin on the other hand costs $1500-$4000. Granted it will hold more power, but its not needed for your application unless you plan on running in excess of 600hp+

[DriftParty]

^I was running a ceramic 6puck on the ls1 hatch, worked great and even after 4 events it never gave me a problem which says alot because honestly I think drifting is by far the most clutch wearing motorsport.

[soccerx16]

im 16 and i will be getting my own car soon when i turn 18... I really want a stick car but i will first need to learn to drive one.. i know the basics but im not very good... i was thinking maybe a civic or something because they are easy to learn on but i was thinking maybe a subie impreza (non wrx) because it is cheap and it has awd which will help me through the winters in NJ

[snakebite52]

she put down 320 whp, but had to be detuned a bit due to the clutch slipping. 308 awhp. feels good man, already won some money from friends cars. brb 2 steppin at 6300 and 8k redline.

[FatWhiteKid]

im 16 and i will be getting my own car soon when i turn 18... I really want a stick car but i will first need to learn to drive one.. i know the basics but im not very good... i was thinking maybe a civic or something because they are easy to learn on but i was thinking maybe a subie impreza (non wrx) because it is cheap and it has awd which will help me through the winters in NJ

Subies are win.

Got my first under-hood time on a buddies STI today, **** goes together like fukin legos. Not to mention his suspension is phenomenal, can't wait to do mine up one day.

[DriftParty]

So I think I'm going to buy these ssr vienna kreis's. It's only a pair but for the size/price I can't complain. I'll be able to run a 18/19 staggered setup and it will allow me to tuck some extra tire and sit the fender right on the rim edge.

$1200 19x12 +6




I needa tuck some more tire but if I go any lower now I'll be dragging frame constantly.



oh and CHECK OUT MY SICK NAWZZZZ! lololol