Misc. Car Owners - Foolproof way to make your Car look 'Like New'

Rob Awesome · 08-25-2007, 07:32 PM

By: Rob Awesome

I've done some research on Washing & Working on Exterior Vehicle Surfaces. Should be safe for all/most vehicle exteriors & Paint jobs.

-----------

What you NEED (suggested):
-Sheepskin Mitt or a good plush chenille or a microfiber mitt
-Reliable Car Soap ie Mother's OR Meguiar's Gold Class Shampoo
-Clean/Prep Surface ie Meguiar's Deep Crystal or Meg's Scratch X (and once a year - a clay kit @ this point)
-A polish ie Meguiar's Dual Action Cleaner Polish
-A reliable Wax ie Meg's #26 yellow wax, or zaino or whatever your favorite wax is
-Microfiber Towels
-PERSONAL PREFERENCE - California Water Blade
- Glass Cleaner ie Armor All or Stoners (+ glass friendly towelettes.)

Ok. The process involves patience, but will pay off.

First - Make sure your windows are rolled up. I've read some 'interesting' stories on here about people who've washed their cars with their windows cracked open. Poor interior.

Second - Begin by giving your Honda Civic a good rinse with a High-Pressure Hose removing all loose debris/dirt (and salt if Winter). This is essential by ensuring you won't grind any dirt into the paint when you 'soap' it up. Spray everywhere - top to bottom including the wheels and wheel wells. IMPORTANT: If using the High-Pressure Hose, don't go too close to the paint, you make damage it.

Third - Now it's time to break out your 'mitt' or chenille. Add a cap full or two of your selected soap of choice to your mitt and work it on. START by lathering it in from TOP to BOTTOM doing your Wheel Rims LAST. This is to prevent any dirt/brake dust from your rims working their way into your nice paint job. You may use a Coarse brush on your wheels if they're really dirty. (There are special cleaners for Wheels, but Xoopiter recommends using plain ole Car Soap to be adequete enough)

Fourth - After you feel you've 'lathered' your Civic thoroughly enough - begin to rinse the vehicle down with your (high-powered) hose. Again, if using a High-Powered hose, not too close! Start from the TOP and work your way DOWN.

Optional Step - Repeat process (brush Civic with foamy water & rinse off again)

Fifth - Dry off with a clean shammy or by using the Water Blade to do the bulk of the drying. Squeegee the water off the car making sure to WIPE THE BLADE AFTER EVERY STROKE. To finish drying use a microfiber towellette gently over the vehicle (especially in those hard to dry spots).

Optional Step - At this point, you COULD use a clay kit, but it's recommended only once or twice a year.

Sixth - Clean by prepping the surface with Meguiar's Deep Crystal system paint cleaner or any other paint cleaner & Meguiar's Scratch X. Two Highly recommended Surface cleaners - and again... a clay bar if necessary.

Seventh - Now Polish your Civic with a reliable Polish ONE PANEL at a time. Wait until Hazy then wipe off. Not Rotate/Buff. This will clean the surface even more than just the prep surface cleaners by removing any previous water spots, swirls, etc.

Eigth - Protection comes now... you DEFINITELY have a clean surface so a good wax is in order. Meguiar's #26 Yellow Wax, Gold Class, etc, etc. Wax each panel at a time with a buffer... wait until Hazy and then wipe off using a clean microfiber cloth. Apply with ONE side... Wipe off with OTHER side. Do not Rotate/Buff area.

Ninth - Finally, some Black Magic Detailer is in order for those finishing touches for that final shine with a CLEAN microfiber towelette. As well... Going over the windows/mirrors with Stoners Invisible Glass (or your favorite glass cleaner) using a Window/Streak Free glass towelette for that super clean look & a quick spray of a tire protector to prolong their life.

Smile.

Total Estimated Time: 2 Hrs. 45 Mins.

Estimated Cost: Not sure, but I'd say cheaper than 75.00 and should last you at LEAST 2-3 months as opposed to paying that for a professional wash once a week for that price. It'll save you in the long run and it's EASY. You just need patience. lol

Don't rush it & always use clean towelettes.

sd2 · 08-25-2007, 07:35 PM

By: Rob Awesome

I've done some research on Washing & Working on Exterior Vehicle Surfaces. Should be safe for all/most vehicle exteriors & Paint jobs.

-----------

What you NEED (suggested):
-Sheepskin Mitt or a good plush chenille or a microfiber mitt
-Reliable Car Soap ie Mother's OR Meguiar's Gold Class Shampoo
-Clean/Prep Surface ie Meguiar's Deep Crystal or Meg's Scratch X (and once a year - a clay kit @ this point)
-A polish ie Meguiar's Dual Action Cleaner Polish
-A reliable Wax ie Meg's #26 yellow wax, or zaino or whatever your favorite wax is
-Microfiber Towels
-PERSONAL PREFERENCE - California Water Blade
- Glass Cleaner ie Armor All or Stoners (+ glass friendly towelettes.)

Ok. The process involves patience, but will pay off.

First - Make sure your windows are rolled up. I've read some 'interesting' stories on here about people who've washed their cars with their windows cracked open. Poor interior.

Second - Begin by giving your Honda Civic a good rinse with a High-Pressure Hose removing all loose debris/dirt (and salt if Winter). This is essential by ensuring you won't grind any dirt into the paint when you 'soap' it up. Spray everywhere - top to bottom including the wheels and wheel wells. IMPORTANT: If using the High-Pressure Hose, don't go too close to the paint, you make damage it.

Third - Now it's time to break out your 'mitt' or chenille. Add a cap full or two of your selected soap of choice to your mitt and work it on. START by lathering it in from TOP to BOTTOM doing your Wheel Rims LAST. This is to prevent any dirt/brake dust from your rims working their way into your nice paint job. You may use a Coarse brush on your wheels if they're really dirty. (There are special cleaners for Wheels, but Xoopiter recommends using plain ole Car Soap to be adequete enough)

Fourth - After you feel you've 'lathered' your Civic thoroughly enough - begin to rinse the vehicle down with your (high-powered) hose. Again, if using a High-Powered hose, not too close! Start from the TOP and work your way DOWN.

Optional Step - Repeat process (brush Civic with foamy water & rinse off again)

Fifth - Dry off with a clean shammy or by using the Water Blade to do the bulk of the drying. Squeegee the water off the car making sure to WIPE THE BLADE AFTER EVERY STROKE. To finish drying use a microfiber towellette gently over the vehicle (especially in those hard to dry spots).

Optional Step - At this point, you COULD use a clay kit, but it's recommended only once or twice a year.

Sixth - Clean by prepping the surface with Meguiar's Deep Crystal system paint cleaner or any other paint cleaner & Meguiar's Scratch X. Two Highly recommended Surface cleaners - and again... a clay bar if necessary.

Seventh - Now Polish your Civic with a reliable Polish ONE PANEL at a time. Wait until Hazy then wipe off. Not Rotate/Buff. This will clean the surface even more than just the prep surface cleaners by removing any previous water spots, swirls, etc.

Eigth - Protection comes now... you DEFINITELY have a clean surface so a good wax is in order. Meguiar's #26 Yellow Wax, Gold Class, etc, etc. Wax each panel at a time with a buffer... wait until Hazy and then wipe off using a clean microfiber cloth. Apply with ONE side... Wipe off with OTHER side. Do not Rotate/Buff area.

Ninth - Finally, some Black Magic Detailer is in order for those finishing touches for that final shine with a CLEAN microfiber towelette. As well... Going over the windows/mirrors with Stoners Invisible Glass (or your favorite glass cleaner) using a Window/Streak Free glass towelette for that super clean look & a quick spray of a tire protector to prolong their life.

Smile.

Total Estimated Time: 2 Hrs. 45 Mins.

Estimated Cost: Not sure, but I'd say cheaper than 75.00 and should last you at LEAST 2-3 months as opposed to paying that for a professional wash once a week for that price. It'll save you in the long run and it's EASY. You just need patience. lol

Don't rush it & always use clean towelettes.

JohnLx · 08-25-2007, 07:36 PM

this stuff works really well

http://www.meguiars.com/?liquid-car-waxes/COLORx

Meguiar?s? COLORX? is the tested and proven system to restore deep color and gloss from your oxidized or contaminated paint finish. Helps remove fine scratches and swirl marks too. Our polish and wax combination will dramatically revive brilliant color and add a long lasting protection that locks in the shine. For best results, apply with an Even-Coat Applicator and remove residue with a Supreme Shine? Microfiber or Ultra Plush Super Terry.

AviationII · 08-25-2007, 07:36 PM

By: Rob Awesome

I've done some research on Washing & Working on Exterior Vehicle Surfaces. Should be safe for all/most vehicle exteriors & Paint jobs.

-----------

What you NEED (suggested):
-Sheepskin Mitt or a good plush chenille or a microfiber mitt
-Reliable Car Soap ie Mother's OR Meguiar's Gold Class Shampoo
-Clean/Prep Surface ie Meguiar's Deep Crystal or Meg's Scratch X (and once a year - a clay kit @ this point)
-A polish ie Meguiar's Dual Action Cleaner Polish
-A reliable Wax ie Meg's #26 yellow wax, or zaino or whatever your favorite wax is
-Microfiber Towels
-PERSONAL PREFERENCE - California Water Blade
- Glass Cleaner ie Armor All or Stoners (+ glass friendly towelettes.)

Ok. The process involves patience, but will pay off.

First - Make sure your windows are rolled up. I've read some 'interesting' stories on here about people who've washed their cars with their windows cracked open. Poor interior.

Second - Begin by giving your Honda Civic a good rinse with a High-Pressure Hose removing all loose debris/dirt (and salt if Winter). This is essential by ensuring you won't grind any dirt into the paint when you 'soap' it up. Spray everywhere - top to bottom including the wheels and wheel wells. IMPORTANT: If using the High-Pressure Hose, don't go too close to the paint, you make damage it.

Third - Now it's time to break out your 'mitt' or chenille. Add a cap full or two of your selected soap of choice to your mitt and work it on. START by lathering it in from TOP to BOTTOM doing your Wheel Rims LAST. This is to prevent any dirt/brake dust from your rims working their way into your nice paint job. You may use a Coarse brush on your wheels if they're really dirty. (There are special cleaners for Wheels, but Xoopiter recommends using plain ole Car Soap to be adequete enough)

Fourth - After you feel you've 'lathered' your Civic thoroughly enough - begin to rinse the vehicle down with your (high-powered) hose. Again, if using a High-Powered hose, not too close! Start from the TOP and work your way DOWN.

Optional Step - Repeat process (brush Civic with foamy water & rinse off again)

Fifth - Dry off with a clean shammy or by using the Water Blade to do the bulk of the drying. Squeegee the water off the car making sure to WIPE THE BLADE AFTER EVERY STROKE. To finish drying use a microfiber towellette gently over the vehicle (especially in those hard to dry spots).

Optional Step - At this point, you COULD use a clay kit, but it's recommended only once or twice a year.

Sixth - Clean by prepping the surface with Meguiar's Deep Crystal system paint cleaner or any other paint cleaner & Meguiar's Scratch X. Two Highly recommended Surface cleaners - and again... a clay bar if necessary.

Seventh - Now Polish your Civic with a reliable Polish ONE PANEL at a time. Wait until Hazy then wipe off. Not Rotate/Buff. This will clean the surface even more than just the prep surface cleaners by removing any previous water spots, swirls, etc.

Eigth - Protection comes now... you DEFINITELY have a clean surface so a good wax is in order. Meguiar's #26 Yellow Wax, Gold Class, etc, etc. Wax each panel at a time with a buffer... wait until Hazy and then wipe off using a clean microfiber cloth. Apply with ONE side... Wipe off with OTHER side. Do not Rotate/Buff area.

Ninth - Finally, some Black Magic Detailer is in order for those finishing touches for that final shine with a CLEAN microfiber towelette. As well... Going over the windows/mirrors with Stoners Invisible Glass (or your favorite glass cleaner) using a Window/Streak Free glass towelette for that super clean look & a quick spray of a tire protector to prolong their life.

Smile.

Total Estimated Time: 2 Hrs. 45 Mins.

Estimated Cost: Not sure, but I'd say cheaper than 75.00 and should last you at LEAST 2-3 months as opposed to paying that for a professional wash once a week for that price. It'll save you in the long run and it's EASY. You just need patience. lol

Don't rush it & always use clean towelettes.
__________________
6/1/07 - 196 lbs, 12% bf
Goal: 8/30/07 - 190 lbs, 9% bf

Reps For Life: Slated, DMcBrideBoston
Reps Owed:

NSCA - CPT. BS Kinesiology (Pending - 4th Year Student). Pre-Med (4th Year Student)
(NSCA-Lift.org)
EAT, lift, REST ~> Grow.

*I REP FOR KNOWLEDGE*

LMAO!! you think im reading all that Sh*t??

Rob Awesome · 08-25-2007, 07:37 PM

I sea what you did thar.

beach89 · 08-25-2007, 07:41 PM

I'm going to touch up the paint on my car in the next few weeks, so I won't be able to wax for a few months. But I'll definately try this when I do wax it.

Do you know anything about getting stains out of cars? I got this stain on the floor in my car that I don't know what it is, and I've tried over a dozen different cleaners. Nothing works.

Rob Awesome · 08-25-2007, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beach89

I'm going to touch up the paint on my car in the next few weeks, so I won't be able to wax for a few months. But I'll definately try this when I do wax it.

Do you know anything about getting stains out of cars? I got this stain on the floor in my car that I don't know what it is, and I've tried over a dozen different cleaners. Nothing works.

Steamer & Shop-Vac work wonders. Definitely give the process a try OR

What's needed...

* Clean white cloth ( I used a small white terry towel)...
* Steam iron...
* Ammonia ( I used clear windex with ammonia)...

Three simple steps...(As always with any stain removal method or product test in an inconspicuous area for colorfastness)

* Spray the stain with ammonia product (I soaked it)
* Place white towel over the stain
* Move steam iron back and forth over stained area (you can also wrap the towel around the iron for more friction if needed)

You will see the stain start to come up immediately into the towel. Turn to a clean portion and continue until stain is completey gone. I then followed up with carpet cleaner over the entire carpet area as this gets the pre-stained area extremely clean and makes the rest of your carpet look dingy.

Mansewerz · 08-25-2007, 07:45 PM

i'd rep u if a i had a car, but i'm 14. hell i'll rep u anyways

beach89 · 08-25-2007, 07:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rob Awesome

Steamer & Shop-Vac work wonders. Definitely give the process a try, but I'll research it for you.

Tried already. The Streamer didn't really do all that much. Shop-Vac did nothing. I also tried using every cleaner(that was safe to use in a car) at Wal-Mart. All it did was make me really lightheaded whenever I drove my car for the next week.(yes strong fumes)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rob Awesome

What's needed...

* Clean white cloth ( I used a small white terry towel)...
* Steam iron...
* Ammonia ( I used clear windex with ammonia)...

Three simple steps...(As always with any stain removal method or product test in an inconspicuous area for colorfastness)

* Spray the stain with ammonia product (I soaked it)
* Place white towel over the stain
* Move steam iron back and forth over stained area (you can also wrap the towel around the iron for more friction if needed)

You will see the stain start to come up immediately into the towel. Turn to a clean portion and continue until stain is completey gone. I then followed up with carpet cleaner over the entire carpet area as this gets the pre-stained area extremely clean and makes the rest of your carpet look dingy.

Thanks I'll try that. I already repped you for the 1st post, but I'll rep you when I can for this.

Rob Awesome · 08-25-2007, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beach89

Tried already. The Streamer didn't really do all that much. Shop-Vac did nothing. I also tried using every cleaner(that was safe to use in a car) at Wal-Mart. All it did was make me really lightheaded whenever I drove my car for the next week.(yes strong fumes)

Thanks I'll try that. I already repped you for the 1st post, but I'll rep you when I can for this.

reposting this so you can see it -

What's needed...

* Clean white cloth ( I used a small white terry towel)...
* Steam iron...
* Ammonia ( I used clear windex with ammonia)...

Three simple steps...(As always with any stain removal method or product test in an inconspicuous area for colorfastness)

* Spray the stain with ammonia product (I soaked it)
* Place white towel over the stain
* Move steam iron back and forth over stained area (you can also wrap the towel around the iron for more friction if needed)

You will see the stain start to come up immediately into the towel. Turn to a clean portion and continue until stain is completely gone. I then followed up with carpet cleaner over the entire carpet area as this gets the pre-stained area extremely clean and makes the rest of your carpet look dingy.

OOC: Holy crap... I've reached 2,000 posts.

wsuwarrior · 08-25-2007, 07:49 PM

Using a claybar once is better than doing that.

sd2 · 08-25-2007, 07:50 PM

reposting this so you can see it -

What's needed...

* Clean white cloth ( I used a small white terry towel)...
* Steam iron...
* Ammonia ( I used clear windex with ammonia)...

Three simple steps...(As always with any stain removal method or product test in an inconspicuous area for colorfastness)

* Spray the stain with ammonia product (I soaked it)
* Place white towel over the stain
* Move steam iron back and forth over stained area (you can also wrap the towel around the iron for more friction if needed)

You will see the stain start to come up immediately into the towel. Turn to a clean portion and continue until stain is completely gone. I then followed up with carpet cleaner over the entire carpet area as this gets the pre-stained area extremely clean and makes the rest of your carpet look dingy.

Rob Awesome · 08-25-2007, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wsuwarrior

Using a claybar once is better than doing that.

Claying should be done 1 - 2 times a year. Effective, but can also be damaging to your coat of paint & sealant if done more than that.

wsuwarrior · 08-25-2007, 08:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rob Awesome

Claying should be done 1 - 2 times a year. Effective, but can also be damaging to your coat of paint & sealant if done more than that.

It gets rid of a good amount of orange peel and contaminants. If you do it more than once every couple years its too much. Be sure to wax after using clay.

Rob Awesome · 08-25-2007, 08:18 PM

bump

Cig Diesel · 08-25-2007, 08:55 PM

How do I clean my headlights? I have a Jeep Grand Cherokee and the headlights are foggy.

Rob Awesome · 08-26-2007, 04:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cig Diesel

How do I clean my headlights? I have a Jeep Grand Cherokee and the headlights are foggy.

Ok it's a bit of a process, but VERY worth it! For me, Used 1000 grit, 1500 grit, and 2000 grit wet sandpaper with plenty of water running over it at all times. Then got a 2.5" foam buff pad to put on the end of the power drill (cordless isn't fast enough and battery never would have lasted) and used Meguiars #17 Cleaner. Did three coats of that on cool lights (in the shade at 72f) for about 1 minute each coat. Then stepped up to finish them off with Meguiars #10 Polish with three coats of about 1 minute each. They look absolutely fantastic and better (no shiat!) than new. Now I've got to wash the car cuz that crap flew all over the hood and front bumber. I'll have to dig up a before pic and post that with the results.

For those that are skeptical of the results, don't be. I was too, but I've proved myself wrong. Don't waste $100+ on a new set of headlights. Just use that money for beer!

Link to the Meguiars I used. http://www.driveit.com/megplascar.html

Link to similar buffing pads I used. http://topoftheline.com/micfoampolpa.html

Rob Awesome · 08-26-2007, 08:32 AM

bump