Remove paint from weights the easy way!

I thought I would share my paint striping method. It can be very hazardous, so don't be brain dead and treat the stuff with respect. It takes one plastic bucket big enough to hold your weight, one complete full bottle of lye based drain opener and slowly and carefully add cold water. I heard it can be made stronger by varying the amount of cleaner to the water. I just used one bottle and its works so I never added a second. This stuff is very caustic and I have had tiny chemical burns from even where the old softened paint flaked off after the soak and I didn't get it washed off in time. I now use plastic gloves and safety glasses. It takes a few days of soaking to then wire bush and wash. Total time working on a plate is maybe five minutes. The soak does most of the work. I use wire to hang the weight so that I can pull it out of the solution without sticking my hands in that gunk. The lye in the water changes the ph so even weeks will not cause the iron to rust. It will rust though when you pull it out and wash it if its not dried quickly. I think some drain cleaners do no use the word lye, but I seem to remember caustic soda being the name. I have used the same solution for different projects, its at least 2.5 years old and still does the job. This stuff will blind you and eat your skin etc. so I am again reminding people to use the proper safety gear. It sure beats trying to wire bush the paint off, or even bead blasting. I have a blast cabinet and the time was about 20-30 minutes per plate and a lot of time waiting for the air pressure to build back up.

This is not for amateurs or the faint of heart! Use protective gear!

Is there an advantage to this method over a citrus based paint stripper or other regular paint remover?

Lye is a common name for NaOH (sodium hydroxide)... and sometimes KOH (potassium hydroxide). Latex gloves are not sufficient. You need to wear the thick rubber gloves. I was taught to wear nitrile gloves and then rubber gloves over them. The idea being that if the rubber glove is cut or otherwise damaged, you can remove it and still have some additional protection until you can get another glove on. I don't know the concentration of the base in drain cleaner. Eye protection is definitely a must.

The citrus strip paint remover that I picked up at Walmart is probably only a little more expensive than drain opener. It works in minutes.
[url]http://forum.bodybuilding.com/showthread.php?t=154643063&p=1092653233&viewfull=1#post1092653233[/url]

Actually the effectiveness of citrus based products haven't done anything in "minutes" to the epoxy paint that's on some standard weight. If another method works better and you feel like you cant take the safety precautions, your more than welcome to use that. This is just a method I have found that works very well at removing the most stubborn paint and the fillers underneath. Thats the stuff even media blasting with iron oxide has problems with. Just use common sense. For the wussy paint, even a soak in vinegar would remove most of that and rust.

I thought it was an interesting suggestion. I hadn't thought of it before. I don't dispute it. My two cents are to use chemical resistant gloves, not the latex gloves. The citrus stuff has worked well for me.... on Ivanko, York, Cemco original paint and what had been painted on top of it. It will go through more than one layers if it's given time and kept wet... but sometimes two treatments work best to get the surface completely stripped. I haven't tried it on "standard" plates but some of the Cap plates have really thick paint... it's almost like a lamination.

[QUOTE=Seatard;1127477273]Is there an advantage to this method over a citrus based paint stripper or other regular paint remover?[/QUOTE]
Personally its the time spent messing with a large number of plates.

Media blasting was slow on the thicker tougher epoxy paints.

Home depot etc removers didn't do the job quickly and you have to keep the surface wet by reapplying as the product drys out. So that means you have to babysit the project. Of course there will be someone who says they had no problem taking off lacquer, realize there are different grades of finishes and just because one surface is easily cleaned with a product doesn't mean everyone will have the same result. I was able to strip and derust over 600 lbs of dumbbell 10s using just vinegar.... sadly that wouldn't touch the other tougher finishes.

Using caustic soda - the plates are wired and submersed in the solution for a few days. That takes literally seconds. I come back as time allows and pull them out and wash them off with a hose and a wire brush. That takes minutes! The draw back is it is very caustic... that's why it removes the tougher finishes. So use whatever you feel comfortable with and always do it safely.

This is like a bad episode of Breaking Bad. While I don't dispute your method works, why would you possibly maim yourself to cleanup some plates? This is risk vs. reward issue.

Also, your claim of faster is is dubious at best. I could spray 600lbs of plates with citrus stripper, let them sit for an hour to hour and a half, blast them with a pressure washer, dry them, repaint them, and have them resold on craigslist in the "few days" that you take to soak. Seriously, you're taking the long and dangerous route..

P.s., only dummies try to strip paint with a wire brush. Wire wheels are best for removing rust. The only reason I would even bother stripping paint is if the plates are for my personal collection. If they are being flipped, just wire wheel, repaint, sell. Done.

Don, what do you do with the solution when you are done?

Having seen what lye can do, I can see how this would strip the paint well. It's also pretty good at stripping away skin, so I generally try to avoid going near the stuff.

A couple years ago my father mixed up a strong batch of lye to pour in his septic tank. He poured too much into a bucket of water too fast, and since lye is highly exothermic when being dissolved in water, the solution began to boil in a few seconds and erupted out of the bucket like a volcano. Fortunately, he saw the bubbles starting to form and he got away from it fast enough, but needless to say, he wasn't too keen on using the stuff after that.

Lye actually used to be an "old-time" paint stripper before safer methods arose. I found one recipe on the web that called for adding a cup of lye and cup of cornstarch to two gallons of water, and then painting it on surfaces like regular paint stripper. That wouldn't be as effective as the soaking method (and perhaps not as good as regular strippers), but would be a little safer. Because lye heats up water as it dissolves, it will thicken the cornstarch.

You can neutralize the solution by adding vinegar, or any other acid you have around. In the lye/cornstarch recipe above, the author recommended neutralizing the solution with 3 cups of vinegar. So 3 parts vinegar to 1-cup lye will probably do the trick. When the solution stops foaming when you add acid, it's probably neutralized.

In any case, if you use lye, be careful.

I worked with caustic soda before and still have 5 gallon bucket of it in a powdered form. This thing is dangerous.

[b]Don't even try to mess with it without wearing safety goggles and rubber gloves, not to mention being fully clothed including headwear[/b].

[QUOTE=SkinnySquats;1127573463]This is like a bad episode of Breaking Bad. While I don't dispute your method works, why would you possibly maim yourself to cleanup some plates? This is risk vs. reward issue.

Also, your claim of faster is is dubious at best. I could spray 600lbs of plates with citrus stripper, let them sit for an hour to hour and a half, blast them with a pressure washer, dry them, repaint them, and have them resold on craigslist in the "few days" that you take to soak. Seriously, you're taking the long and dangerous route..

P.s., only dummies try to strip paint with a wire brush. Wire wheels are best for removing rust. The only reason I would even bother stripping paint is if the plates are for my personal collection. If they are being flipped, just wire wheel, repaint, sell. Done.[/QUOTE]


1) I posted this as what I found to work well for me when the citrus method etc did not work. The same batch of cleaner has been used for many years for other projects including restoring a lathe. What you fail to comprehend is that there are different finishes on plates and while I am glad that your citrus product worked for you so far. Its not going to work well for the tougher epoxy coating.

2) Its not "long" at all. Total time per plate is just a few minutes. I have a busy schedule and the fact that it takes less of "my time" is one of the best parts. Now if you have nothing to do all day but stare a weight plates, hoping to make a few bucks on CL, then yes you may need to look into other ways to generate income. As for taking the long a dangerous route as long as proper safety gear is worn its not any more dangerous than the "aircraft stripper" or other truly useful commercially available paint/epoxy removers. Some lower quality brands have started using that name too so do your own research. Those too will give you a nasty chem burn its foolish leaving it on your skin.

3) For your final comment saying that I'm a "dummy" for using a wire brush to remove the soft goo after the soak, this is also a lack of comprehension of how the process works. The paint is very soft, and almost falls off with water pressure, the wire brush is used to clean out the more porous areas of the cast iron. After soaking its a few minute job at the longest.

Now I have used this method and the other methods to remove paint for years. I made my living restoring vintage sports cars - so really please don't try to enlighten me on howto remove paint, I truly have used them all. If some method seems unsuitable for your needs, then its simple.... DON'T USE IT! Its a choice and there are plenty of those. You also do not want to put certain types of metal into lye solutions. Steel and Iron are fine.

[QUOTE=donforeman;1127676093]1) I posted this as what I found to work well for me when the citrus method etc did not work. The same batch of cleaner has been used for many years for other projects including restoring a lathe. What you fail to comprehend is that there are different finishes on plates and while I am glad that your citrus product worked for you so far. Its not going to work well for the tougher epoxy coating.

2) Its not "long" at all. Total time per plate is just a few minutes. I have a busy schedule and the fact that it takes less of "my time" is one of the best parts. Now if you have nothing to do all day but stare a weight plates, hoping to make a few bucks on CL, then yes you may need to look into other ways to generate income. As for taking the long a dangerous route as long as proper safety gear is worn its not any more dangerous than the "aircraft stripper" or other truly useful commercially available paint/epoxy removers. Some lower quality brands have started using that name too so do your own research. Those too will give you a nasty chem burn its foolish leaving it on your skin.

You say it's not long at all, but you stated that it takes a few days to soak. That seems long to me. I like staring at my vintage weights, (When I'm not lifting them.) but most people know how to multi-task and do other things while their plates are soaking.. I've made from $3-4k flipping gear in 4 weeks, so to each his own.

3) For your final comment saying that I'm a "dummy" for using a wire brush to remove the soft goo after the soak, this is also a lack of comprehension of how the process works. The paint is very soft, and almost falls off with water pressure, the wire brush is used to clean out the more porous areas of the cast iron. After soaking its a few minute job at the longest.

Let me clarify: It is dumb to try to strip DRY plates with a wire wheel. Try doing that on Ivanko plates, it will take ALL DAY. Your method here also works with Citrus stripper. (Water pressure/brush)

Now I have used this method and the other methods to remove paint for years. I made my living restoring vintage sports cars - so really please don't try to enlighten me on howto remove paint, I truly have used them all. If some method seems unsuitable for your needs, then its simple.... DON'T USE IT! Its a choice and there are plenty of those. You also do not want to put certain types of metal into lye solutions. Steel and Iron are fine.[/QUOTE]

Argh, my comments in between didn't post. Nevermind..

Some methods and cleaners are only for careful adults. I would not hesitate to use Lye. IT [I]will work[/I]. Again I know what precautions to take and I wouldn't be paralyzed by fear doing this. I frequently use lye in the making of soap, and for making German soft pretzels it just requires sensible caution.

[B][size=+10]DO NOT PUT WATER ONTO CAUSTIC SODA!!![/size][/B]

It can explode! You should always put the caustic soda into the water and in small amounts until you have the required concentration.

Also, it works better if you heat the solution up as well but that takes it to a danger level over 9000!

I'm thinking about trying this method for my chains. Does it remove all the rust? It's impossible to get in all the nooks and crannies of chain with a wire brush.

i still haven't refinished my plates , may try this way, but a question, is this a suitable wire disc : [url]http://www.homedepot.ca/product/drill-mount-strip-wire-brush/824934[/url]

I like the sound of this method. I used this stuff on a drain a few months back and was amazed just how strong it was, so I have no doubt it would work.


[QUOTE=Skidmarx;1127735433]I'm thinking about trying this method for my chains. Does it remove all the rust? It's impossible to get in all the nooks and crannies of chain with a wire brush.[/QUOTE]

Didn't you only paint your chains a few months ago, why do you want to get rid?

[QUOTE=weisgarb;1127637803]You can neutralize the solution by adding vinegar, or any other acid you have around. In the lye/cornstarch recipe above, the author recommended neutralizing the solution with 3 cups of vinegar. So 3 parts vinegar to 1-cup lye will probably do the trick. When the solution stops foaming when you add acid, it's probably neutralized.

In any case, if you use lye, be careful.[/QUOTE]
I'd be entirely hesitant to do this, the reaction can be quite enthusiastic

[QUOTE=Skidmarx;1127735433]I'm thinking about trying this method for my chains. Does it remove all the rust? It's impossible to get in all the nooks and crannies of chain with a wire brush.[/QUOTE]

For rust, 2 words: naval jelly.

[QUOTE=Skidmarx;1127735433]I'm thinking about trying this method for my chains. Does it remove all the rust? It's impossible to get in all the nooks and crannies of chain with a wire brush.[/QUOTE]

have you tried a coke bath first? And then dragging them through sand - I have had a good experience with that.

[QUOTE=michaelstone;1127749623]i still haven't refinished my plates , may try this way, but a question, is this a suitable wire disc : [url]http://www.homedepot.ca/product/drill-mount-strip-wire-brush/824934[/url][/QUOTE]

I have not been a fan of those as they left some decent scratch marks. I use something along these lines:
[url]http://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-Pro-4-in-Crimped-Wire-Wheel-PWW040WHLD01G/202831062[/url]

ok thanks, i was just looking at that type at lowes, 4" fine or coarse would you recommend?

[QUOTE=Cleveland33;1128176543]have you tried a coke bath first? And then dragging them through sand - I have had a good experience with that.



I have not been a fan of those as they left some decent scratch marks. I use something along these lines:
[url]http://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-Pro-4-in-Crimped-Wire-Wheel-PWW040WHLD01G/202831062[/url][/QUOTE]

I use that same one for knocking off rust before repainting. However, it leaves a shiny chromish finish to plates, so I don't use for vintage plates I don't intend to repaint. A friend explained that the wheel is "burnishing" the metal.

[QUOTE=michaelstone;1128195193]ok thanks, i was just looking at that type at lowes, 4" fine or coarse would you recommend?[/QUOTE]

Fine.